20 December 2024.
Perched on the cliffs overlooking the Valle de Pineta, the steep path to the magnificent Balcon de Pineta is one of the best hiking trails in the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park.
The spectacular Valle de Pineta forms the easternmost valley in the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park.
Surrounded by rugged peaks, the forested floor climbs into a sheer rock face streaked in a web of powerful waterfalls and cascades that feed into the Ria Cinca.
Perched on the precipice at the head of the valley is the Balcón de Pineta where hikers are rewarded with magnificent views.
The balcón also provides access to the alpine plateau and the option to extend your hike towards the beautiful Ibón de Marboré, a small turquoise lake nestled beneath a string of craggy peaks that mark the border with France.
Desolate and strewn with ashen boulders, crossing this upper section of the valley feels like wandering the plains of Mordor, beneath the hulking mass of Monte Perdido.
Draped around its impressive facade, the heavily receded Monte Perdido Glacier gleams in the sunshine, marked by the tiny trails of intrepid mountaineers who make their way over the saddle beneath Cilindro de Marboré (Pico Cilindro) and into the enchanting Ordesa Valley.
The trail to the Balcon de Pineta is steep and almost entirely uphill, but it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in the entire Spanish Pyrenees.
Distance | 15 km
Duration | 8 hours
Elevation Gain | 1,315 m
Difficulty | Moderate
Trailhead | Pradera de Pineta
To reach Pineta Valley, navigate towards the small mountain village of Bielsa which sits at its mouth alongside the Rio Cinca.
The closest airport to this section of the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park is actually located in France, with Lourdes being just 2.5 hours away. In Spain, Zaragoza and Barcelona airports can be reached in 3 to 4 hours, while Toulouse in France is also 3 hours away.
Bielsa is easily reached via the Carretera Aragonesa (A-138) which stretches between Barbastro and the French border via Ainsa.
From Bielsa, take the access road which hugs the north of the river (HUV-6402) and continue for 14 km. Here you’ll reach the Pradera de Pineta and a large parking area on the right hand side near the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Pineta.
From France, Bielsa lies just 12km from the border and the incredible Hautes-Pyrénées region where Aragnouet is the closest village on the French side.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Zaragoza, Barcelona, Lourdes and Toulouse all have numerous options available for car rental from both the airports and central train stations. I rented my vehicle from Zaragoza which is closest to the central Spanish Pyrenees area, but have also rented vehicles in Toulouse to explore the French Pyrenees.
I recommend using Discover Cars who offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
There are no direct buses which travel into the Pineta Valley, however you can get as far as Bielsa by bus.
Autocares Bergua travels daily between Ainsa and Bielsa during July and August, and three times a week at other times of the year. Given the departure times, you will need to overnight in the area before and after your hike and either walk or hitchhike the remaining 14 km from Bielsa to the trailhead. Check the timetable here.
To reach Ainsa, Avanza operates several bus routes from Torla-Ordesa, Barbastro and Sabiñánigo. Check the timetable here.
Annoyingly, the Avanza website is notoriously glitchy for foreigners. If you’re having trouble loading the page, try using a VPN localised for Spain and stick to the Spanish version rather than translating it to English.
From Zaragoza, Huesca or Pamplona, travel to Sabiñánigo by bus or train and then transfer to an Avanza bus to Ainsa. From Barcelona, either take a train to Zaragoza and transfer to Sabiñánigo as above, or take a direct bus to Barbastro from where you can catch the Avanza bus on to Ainsa. Check transport options here.
For visitors, there is a large controlled parking area in an open field at the Pradera de Pineta. This costs €3 per vehicle per day and is well organised so be sure to bring small change.
Compared with the parking at Torla-Ordesa which becomes quickly overwhelmed and chaotic, the Pineta parking was relaxed and straightforward with plenty of space even around mid morning in the height of summer. For a parking lot, the location is also spectacular.
At the far end, cross the bridge over the Río Cinca to access the hiking trails.
For the Valle de Pineta, Bielsa is the obvious place to stay, however if you intend to visit the wider Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park, you may prefer to base yourself in a more central location that provides equally easy access to its other spectacular valleys.
For this reason I chose to stay in Ainsa which is located 50 minutes from both Pineta and Ordesa, the furthest two valleys, and is much closer to the impressive canyons of Añisclo and Escuain.
The town itself sits at the confluence of Rio Cinca and Rio Ara and is well connected with a beautiful old town, ample parking and plenty of hotels and restaurants available.
Hotel Monte Perdido | Set alongside Bielsa’s Plaza Mayor, this modern and minimalist hotel offers a variety of cosy and comfortable rooms, some of which include sauna and spa facilities. Check rates and availability here.
Dos Rios | I had a wonderful stay at this comfortable mid-range option in the heart of Ainsa which extends across three side-by-side buildings – Origin, Central and Apartahotel. Offering modern private rooms and spacious apartments, an excellent restaurant and bar, and fantastic breakfast buffet this is a great option for exploring the wider Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park. Check rates and availability here – Origin, Central and Aparthotel.
Los Arcos | Situated directly on Plaza Mayor in Ainsa’s old town, Los Arcos, which translates to ‘the arches’, is a lovely option with cosy rooms and beautiful stonework detailing. Keep in mind that you’ll need to park in the large municipal parking area outside the city walls. Check rates and availability here.
Apartamentos El Rincón | For something a bit special, this charming top-rated property is located a short drive from Ainsa and fully embraces the cottagecore aesthetic, offering beautifully designed apartments that make for a wonderfully homely stay in the Pyrenean countryside. Check rates and availability here.
Parking in the Pyrenees during peak season can present something of a challenge and I’d highly recommend choosing accommodation that has parking available or having a plan in place for where to park when you arrive.
In Ainsa, many of the larger hotels do offer parking, though prices can be rather steep. As a backup, a better option is to park at one of three large municipal parking areas scattered around the fringes of town – located here, here and here.
As of 2024, prices for cars were €1 per hour or €3 per 24 hours which can be left overnight. Campervans cost €8 per day but cannot be left overnight, except at the parking area behind the old town which has a dedicated space for campers and caravans. Be sure to bring coins for the ticket machines.
6.5 km | 4 hours | 1,254 m gain
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From the parking area, cross the bridge and follow the forested gravel road past the information office and up the left bank of the Rio Cinca, following the green trail signs for the Balcon de Pineta and Ibón de Marboré.
About 600 m from the visitors centre, cross the small metal bridge back onto the right bank where you’ll be greeted with a glimpse of the impressive cirque towering ahead.
A short way further up the dirt road, the trail forks. To the right, the path ascends a series of steps alongside a string of small waterfalls to Cascada de La Larri, but stick to the left trail marked by a sign for Camino Marboré.
From here, the trail climbs steadily through the forest for the next 1.5 km where you’ll emerge above the trees to find the imposing cliffs rearing up ahead and the powerful Cascada del Cinca tumbling from its rocky precipice, sending a deafening roar across the valley.
At the next intersection, continue straight ahead, though the left fork cuts across to the base of the falls and is a worthwhile detour on the way back if you’ve still got some fuel in the tank.
Onwards, the cool shade of the forest fades away and the steep and relentless climb to the balcony begins, weaving back and forth across more than 100 switchbacks that bring you closer to the sheer rock face.
Beyond this point, there is no shade for the rest of the hike and the sun can be brutal as you progress up the steep slope. Ensure you have adequate sun protection including a hat, sunglasses and plenty of sunscreen.
Initially, the trail ascends gradually before pitching up sharply over a rock wall to reach the first ledge. From here the path swings right along rubbly terrain and commences the first section of tight switchbacks which zag zag up the grassy slope.
As you climb higher, the views become increasingly impressive. The layers of the enormous valley walls extend into the distance, like an endless natural halfpipe bound by giants.
Alongside the trail, curious rock formations tower overhead and spiky peaks reveal themselves above the surrounding ridge lines.
During my visit, a cloud of Saharan dust known as the calima had swept across the Pyrenees, casting a stiflingly hot haze over the mountains.
After 1 km, you’ll cross over a small stream and, after a further kilometre and another steep set of switchbacks you’ll wrap around cross over it again.
Higher up, a section of rock fall cascades across the sharp slope marring the way and the trail begins to splinter with several small trails leading you across the rubble. Pick your way across as best you can.
From here the streaked vertical cliffs that frame the valley loom directly ahead with the sheer rock face that leads to the balcony dominating the left flank.
Push on up the last of the switchbacks, cross the creek a final time and follow the obvious trail that cuts directly across the slope.
Once at the wall, the trail darts immediately left carrying you across the rock shelf. Though this section is somewhat exposed, the path is sturdy and wide enough that it doesn’t feel like you’re walking right on the edge.
Following the cliff line for the final 100 m, you’ll arrive at the spectacular viewpoint of the Balcón de Pineta which overlooks the entire valley and backs onto the bleak boulder field that sprawls across the mountain plateau.
If you’re not continuing on to the lake, find a place with a view to enjoy your lunch break before heading back.
Unfortunately there is no shade up here so it can get extremely hot in the midday sun. Some hikers wander into the boulder field to find a small patch of shadow beneath the rocks where they can hide from the rays while they eat.
When heading back from the Balcón de Pineta, thankfully the return trip is far easier than the way up, though the trail is very steep and rubbly in parts. A solid pair of hiking boots and hiking poles are a good idea for the long descent.
1.2 km | 20 minutes | 70 m gain
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It’s hard to beat the spectacular views that await at the balcony and most hikers simply turn back from here, but it’s well worth taking the short detour to the Ibón de Marboré.
Although the terrain is rocky, the trail is mostly flat and easy enough to navigate and the landscapes are completely different than what you see in the valley.
The views of the surrounding peaks wrapped in ice and snow, and the turquoise lake tucked away in its rocky basin are just the cherry on top of an already epic hike.
From the edge of the balcony, head back into the slate grey boulder field that fills the upper reaches of the valley.
Initially, the trail is clear and well-trodden but is not always distinct as you progress. Watch out for the small stone cairns that pepper the surrounding boulders and indicate the way.
There are also two separate routes that lead to the lake. One that veers left and approaches the lake from the southeast, though during my visit, this crossed through a large snow drift. Instead aim to head straight ahead and approach the lake from the south which should keep you on dry land.
As you move further from the escarpment, Monte Perdido, Pico Cilindro and Pico Soum de Ramond dominate the skyline, their rumpled polychrome walls streaked in snow and ice.
Cutting beneath the northern face of this impressive trio of peaks, it’s hard not to feel like an insignificant speck amongst these landscapes.
Approaching the ribbon-like wall of rock that surrounds the valley, keep an eye out for the two smaller lakes that lie around the path, one of which is tinged a deep shade of red.
About a third of the way along, the grey rocks give way to yellowed sandstone and the well-trodden path reappears tracing through the grassy plateau.
Continue straight and veer left over a small hill to reach a manmade wall, the Presa de Marboré, which hems in the southern edge of the lake.
This also forms the source of the Barranca de los Churros which forges through the moraine and feeds the powerful Cascada del Cinca down below.
From here, the shimmering turquoise pool of Lago de Marboré sprawls ahead, extending to the impressive border ridge.
In the centre, the distinct gap of Brèche de Tuquerouye is unmistakable with its near vertical path that leads up to Refugio Tuccaroya peaking through the middle.
This gorgeous alpine lake sees far fewer visitors than the balcony and is a wonderful place to enjoy a picnic lunch beside the water before beginning the long descent back through the Valle de Pineta.
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