11 December 2024.
The Camino dos Faros or Lighthouse Way is an exceptional multi-day hike along the rugged and remote coastline of Galicia. This detailed trail guide covers everything you need to know to plan your trip.
The Camino dos Faros, or Lighthouse Way, covers 200 km and eight days of walking along the Costa da Morte, a rugged stretch of Galicia’s coastline that extends from Malpica to Finisterre.
Guiding you through wild and remote stretches of coastline guarded by end-of-the-world lighthouses, calm turquoise bays awash with glorious sunshine, vertiginous cliffs and rolling hills carpeted in purple heath, this trail has an epic setting.
Deliciously fresh seafood and cosy guesthouses are also part of the experience.
Compared with Spain’s most famous walking trail, the historic Camino de Santiago which has been a well-trodden route for the last millennium and now attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims each year, the Camino dos Faros is only a recent creation and sees just a fraction of visitors.
Established in 2013 by a group of local hikers, the trail hugs the coastline, darting between tiny fishing villages, larger seaside towns and, of course, several well-positioned lighthouses, by connecting old trails that were historically used by fisherman.
In many ways, it is Spain’s answer to the popular Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal which was launched the year prior.
The Lighthouse Way is considered as one of the more challenging camino routes with long stages and hilly terrain that mean good physical fitness and stamina are required.
The official 8-day route is a fantastic experience, but with careful planning and preparation, it’s also feasible to break up certain stages or factor in additional days to ensure the hike remains as enjoyable as possible.
In this comprehensive trail guide to the Camino dos Faros, you’ll find my exact itinerary, how to get to and from the trail and suggestions for how to alter the official route for those seeking a more relaxed adventure through Galicia’s coastal wilderness.
For more tips and helpful things to know when hiking the Lighthouse Way, read this post.
Using Santiago de Compostela as a jump off point, the official route of the Camino dos Faros covers 200 km over eight stages between Malpica and Finisterre.
Santiago de Compostela to Malpica – Travel Day // Hostal J.B.
#1 Malpica to Niñóns – 22 km // 8 hrs // Casa Vacacional Niñons // Casa da Vasca
#2 Niñóns to Ponteceso – 27 km // 9.5 hrs // Pensión Teyma
#3 Ponteceso to Laxe – 24.5 km // 8.5 hrs // Hostal Residencia Bahia // Hotel VIDA Mar
#4 Laxe to Arou – 18 km // 7 hrs // O Refuxio do Náufrago // Os Faros Pisos Turísticos
#5 Arou to Camariñas – 24 km // 8.5 hrs // O Mar de Preciosa // Hotel Puerto Arnela
#6 Camariñas to Muxia – 32 km // 10 hrs // Albergue Arribada // Solpor do Coído
#7 Muxia to Nemiña – 25 km // 8.5 hrs // Hospedium A Casa Da Reina // LiresCa
#8 Nemiña to Finisterre – 27 km // 8.5 hrs // Hostal Rivas
Finisterre to Santiago de Compostela – Travel Day // Hostal Anosa Casa // Atalaia B&B
Importantly, these official distances do not include any necessary detours to reach your accommodation which can sometimes mean an additional 2 to 3 km of walking. They do include around 1 hour of breaks each day.
I aimed to stick as close as possible to the formal route and designated stages and covered the entire trail on foot.
However there were instances where there was no accommodation available at the end of the stage and it was necessary to either stop short or push on to the next village.
These deviations (mainly on day #4 and #7) are discussed in the guide below.
It is also reasonably popular for hikers to arrange taxi transfers to shorten certain stages or reach accommodation not located directly on the trail. Simply to avoid any FOMO, I much prefer walking, but this is a viable option on most days for those seeking a more relaxed hiking experience.
The entire trail is considered moderate in terms of terrain, however the long hilly stages can be arduous and should not be underestimated.
There are no particularly steep or serious climbs (the highest point is just 312m) but there are several days with rolling hills or coastal cliffs which can see you accumulate around 1,000m in elevation across the stage.
Camino dos Faros Guidebook | Cicerone – Walking the Camino dos Faros
Camino dos Faros Association | GPX Track | Trail Website | Taxi Directory
Check Local Transport | Transporte Publica de Galicia
Check Regional Transport | Omio
Stay Connected | Airalo e-sim
Compare Accommodation | Booking.com
Weather App | WeatherRadar
Offline Map | Maps.me
As the capital of Galicia, virtually every hiker completing the Camino dos Faros will inevitably pass through Santiago de Compostela.
The city is well connected by both land and air, with an international airport and a buzzing central bus and train station.
As the culmination of the storied Way of Saint James, and many other camino routes, nowhere is the sense of the ‘pilgrimage’ more palpable.
It is woven through every inch of the city from the many shopfronts filled with paraphernalia emblazoned with the blue and yellow scallop shell, to the thousands of khaki-clad hikers, to the solitary peregrinos that sit beneath the spires of the immense cathedral, lost in deep contemplation of their journey.
For the uninitiated, it can feel a little overwhelming, particularly in the more touristed areas, but even if you’re just passing through on your way to or from the Camino dos Faros, there are many beautiful parts of Santiago de Compostela that are worthy of your time.
First up, explore the impressive romanesque, gothic and baroque architecture of the historic centre and visit the spectacular Cathedral de Compostela that towers above Praza do Obradoiro.
For those wanting to lean into the traditions and history of the camino routes, you’ll also be spoiled for choice with many museums and cultural centres on offer.
There are frequent high-speed trains between Madrid and Santiago de Compostela, with slower train and bus options available from other major cities in the region.
Conveniently, Santiago has a combined bus and train station, the Estación Intermodal or E.I., located a short walk from the historic centre. All local and long-distance services arrive and depart from here.
Dynamic pricing on regional transport causes wild discrepancies based on demand so I’d highly recommend booking your tickets early to secure the best deals. Compare transport options here.
Santiago’s Rosalía de Castro Airport lies 14 km east of the city and receives regular flights from across western Europe and the UK.
Bus 6A travels frequently between Santiago Airport and the central station from 6:00am to midnight daily. The bus stop is located here on Rúa do Hórreo, near the footbridge that leads to the station. Tickets can be purchased on board and cost €1.
Taxis between the airport and town generally cost around €25 for the 20 minute trip.
Most hikers completing the Camino dos Faros will need to spend at least one night in Santiago de Compostela either before or after their trek. I’d recommend basing yourself either near the station, in the old town or close to the airport if you have an early morning flight.
Hostal Anosa Casa | Set on the fringes of the old town, half way between the station and cathedral, this pensión offers a range of simple, excellent value private rooms in a fully renovated historic home. Check rates and availability here.
Hostal Nomade Santiago | A modern, mid-range option, Nomade offers well appointed private rooms on a bustling street in the historic centre. Cosy and comfortable, though can be a little noisy during busy periods. Check rates and availability here.
Atalaia B&B | Set in the heart of the old town but still just a 20-minute walk from the station, Atalaia sits within a beautiful historic building that has been lovingly restored into a charming guesthouse. A variety of private rooms available with breakfast included. Check rates and availability here.
Albergue A Fabrica | Located in Lavacolla, this popular hikers hostel is a decent budget choice for those wanting to be close to the airport. Only dormitories are available, with access to a communal kitchen and dry room. Given its proximity, it’s not uncommon for guests to simply walk the 3km to the terminal or flag down a bus or taxi on the way. Check rates and availability here.
A sleepy seaside town with a deep-seated fishing tradition, Malpica de Bergañitos, referred to simply as Malpica, holds a beautiful location cascading across a narrow bulge of land that juts out from the rugged Galician coast.
At peak times, the area swells with visitors attracted by the gorgeous beach that extends from town, but for the most part, Malpica remains as a wonderfully peaceful starting point for the Camino dos Faros.
The earliest bus from Santiago de Compostela will have you arriving in town by mid-afternoon which will afford a few hours to explore before darkness steals over the coast.
Start with a walk along the waterfront promenade, past the large mural of the boat crashing through the waves and head into the rambling streets of the old town.
Continue to the Malpica Mirador on the edge of the village where you’ll be welcomed with sweeping views down the verdant Galician coastline.
Follow the stairs towards the port where boats are jostled by waves and the salty air is imbued with the cries of seagulls, before wandering over to the figure of Traski, the smiling green troll who you’ll become all too familiar with along the trail.
Climb the opposite hill for a fantastic view of the pastel facades of the old town and visit the small church before returning back to the beach.
To close out the day, plonk yourself down on the sand and enjoy an afternoon swim in the turquoise bay, or settle into one of the lively waterfront bars to watch the sun fade beyond the horizon with drink in hand.
The town’s main attractions can easily be covered in a couple of hours and you’ll find more details in this short guide to Malpica.
To reach Malpica by bus from either Santiago de Compostela or A Coruña, you’ll need to transfer in Carballo. Check the timetable here.
Enter your departure from Santiago E.I. (Estación Intermodal) or A Coruña E.A. (Estación de Autobuses) to Malpica (Malpica de Bergantiños) and be sure select ‘con transbordo’ (with transfer) rather than ‘viejo directo’ (direct trip) which will yield no results.
There are regular departures from Santiago and A Coruña to Carballo, though usually just 2 to 3 direct services per day from Carballo to Malpica. Some are also by request only.
The bus station in Carballo is little more than a dusty carpark with a building off to the side. You’ll find a faded timetable pinned in the window, though the terminal was completely deserted during my visit.
Tickets can be purchased on board and cost €4.10 (Santiago to Carballo) and €1.55 (Carballo to Malpica) as of 2024. With transfers, the trip takes around 3 hours.
Though Malpica extends for a couple of kilometres, it’s ideal to be located near the tip of the peninsula where you’ll be within minutes of the town’s best restaurants, main attractions, and importantly, the bus stop.
There are just two pensions in the village centre and one hotel at the far end of the beach, while the rest of accommodation is largely private apartments, many of which require a two night minimum stay.
Hostal J.B. | Located right on the beachfront, this cosy guesthouse is an excellent budget choice in Malpica. Rooms are simple but comfortable and many offer ocean views where you can watch the waves rolling in or the fading sun illuminating the bay in fiery hues. Right out front, you’ll find a green arrow on the promenade wall directing you along the first steps of the Camino dos Faros. Check rates and availability here.
Alternatively, apartments are a popular choice in Malpica and offer a more homely experience.
This apartment is a top-rated option in the heart of town which includes a fully-equipped kitchen, cosy living area and ocean views, with one night bookings available. While this apartment located at the western end of the beach, is bright and modern though has a two night minimum for those keen for an extra night in town before beginning the hike.
If you love seafood, you’re basically going to be in foodie heaven for your entire trip and what better place to start than in Malpica.
It’s worth noting that many restaurants in town are closed Monday through Wednesday, and while some may remain open as a bar, they won’t necessarily open the kitchen for dinner.
I arrived on a Monday in September when just two options were open, though I still managed to have a delicious seafood feast.
Admittedly, I was a little hesitant after reading the mixed reviews, but I ended up having an excellent dinner at El Pescador. With a table at the window, I also had an unbeatable view of the super blood moon rising over the port.
Other top-rated seafood restaurants in Malpica include: Material (recommended by Michelin and regarded as the best in town), Restaurante O Burato, Restaurante San Francisco and Cafeteria J.B.
There are very limited lunch options on Stages 1 and 2 of the Camino dos Faros so I’d recommend stocking up in Malpica (or Santiago) with plenty of snacks and enough supplies to last for two packed lunches.
There are three small supermarkets in town – Supermercados Froiz and Frutas Sandra in the old town and Eroski on the main road.
You’ll also find a fantastic bakery – Panadería Forno Novo – which emits a heavenly scent into the streets and serves bread, pastries and a variety of traditional Galician empanadas which are available in the afternoon only.
Unless you’re a late riser, I’d suggest picking up everything the evening before so you’re ready to hit the trail, rather than waiting until they open at 9 a.m. All have split opening hours and are closed on Sundays.
Distance | 22 km
Duration | 8 hours
Elevation Gain | 555 m
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Officially starting from the Port of Malpica, though most hikers set off from Rúa Praia, the Camino dos Faros begins with a beautiful stroll along the promenade that wraps around Praia de Area Maior and Praia de Canido before climbing gently along a wide well-laid path onto the headland.
Weaving through fields carpeted with pink heath, the trail bends around the peninsula, past the refreshing water fountain of Fonte Navenllos and the Santuario de Santo Hadrián do Mar (also named San Adrián) where you’ll find a lovely viewpoint, before pitching downhill.
Swinging around the Cabo de San Adrián, the views toward the Islas Sisargas wedged just off the coast are sublime with its lighthouse rising above vermilion-stained cliffs.
You’ll also catch your first glimpse of Faro de Punta Nariga perched on the edge of a rugged promontory in the distance.
Lichen encrusted rocks frame the path, kelp forests slosh lazily in the cobalt water, and seabirds crowd the exposed outcrops, all illuminated in magical golden light.
It’s a fantastic way to start the trip and I definitely got far too distracted here stopping every few steps to take yet another photo.
Continuing down the cape and turning west, the trail meanders between stone walls and strings together a series of tiny villages and beautiful turquoise beaches including Praia de Beo and Praia de Seiruga (you’ll need to cross a small river here) before circling the bulge of As Garzas and arriving at Praia de Barizo.
This gorgeous topaz crescent bay framed in pearly white sand was my favourite of the stage and is an excellent spot for a picnic lunch before tackling the more challenging hilly stretch of the peninsula that will occupy much of the afternoon.
Pushing on through Barizo Port and ascending to a rocky outcrop that overlooks the bay, the trail traverses the steep and rugged terrain of Punta Nariga to bring you to the perfectly situated lighthouse at the end of the promontory that certainly has that edge-of-the-world feeling about it.
With the most challenging stretch behind you, this is another great spot to enjoy a well-deserved break.
From here, there’s just an hour of walking to go and the trail ascends one small final hill before flattening out and making a beeline south along a wide gravel trail towards the protected cove of Praia de Niñóns which marks the end of an excellent first stage.
Lapped by calm turquoise water, this is another spectacular beach and makes a wonderful place to relax at the end of the hike if you’ve got some time to spare before continuing on to your accommodation.
If you’re staying in the village of Niñóns, it’s at least another 2 km along the paved road through fields of head-high corn and scraggly bracken, past the Church of San Xoán de Niñóns and the nearby cemetery and water fountain.
Within the village, you’ll also see the first hórreos of the trail, the raised granaries that are characteristic of the Galician countryside.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
Officially, this stage ends at Niñóns Beach, however this is one of few days where there is no accommodation located in the immediate vicinity.
The village of Niñóns is a further 2 km away, or 2.6 km to the nearest guesthouse, which creates a 24.5 km day and extends Stage 2 to nearly 30 km as you’ll need to make your way back to the trailhead. Though I did this on foot, I would recommend opting for a transfer to return to Niñóns Beach for day 2.
To shorten the stage, many hikers choose to walk as far as Punta Nariga Lighthouse and take a taxi from here to their accommodation in either As Garzas or Niñóns and return to Niñóns Beach the following morning.
Reception is patchy along the final stretch and there are numerous signs with reminders to book your transfer.
Those with more time may also like to break up the stage by staying in As Garzas near the beautiful Brizo Beach and completing the second half of the stage the following day.
Psst. To stay connected while hiking, I use and recommend an Airalo e-sim. Check plans and coverage here.
Niñóns Accommodation |
Niñóns has very limited accommodation options compared with other stages and they do fill up quickly, even outside of summer. Many hikers opt to stay in As Garzas and take a taxi back and forth from Niñóns Beach. Definitely book ahead to ensure you don’t miss out.
Casa Vacacional Niñons | Surrounded by cornfields on the outskirts of Niñóns, this lovely guesthouse house offers cosy, sun-drenched rooms with a shared bathroom. Generous and tasty half and full-board options are available. The helpful host Marina also provides a taxi service if you’d prefer pick-up from the beach, the lighthouse or As Garzas. Check rates and availability here.
Casa da Vasca | Located right along the route at the tip of the As Garzas peninsula, this top-rated guesthouse offers comfortable rooms, many of which have ocean views, at very reasonable rates. An excellent choice for those keen to break up the stage or arrange a taxi. Check rates and availability here.
Cabanas de Vendaval | These cute and colourful cabins set a short way from Praia de Barizo are another great option, offering self-contained cabanas that include a fully-equipped kitchen, spacious living area and access to the property’s outdoor pool. Check rates and availability here.
Where To Eat |
Cafeteria J.B. is one of few cafes that opens early in Malpica and is an excellent choice for breakfast. A large tostada con tomate, jamón y aceite (or jam if you prefer) is a breakfast staple on trail and a great way to fuel up for the hike.
For lunch there are few options along the route – Restaurante Seiruga, Restaurante Casa da Vasca and the fine-dining, Michelin-starred As Garzas. All have limited opening hours for lunch (just a 90-minute window) and were closed during my visit.
As a result, I ended up with just some apples and peanuts to sustain myself so I’d definitely recommend bringing a packed lunch just in case, especially outside the peak summer season when I found opening hours to rarely be accurate. Or consider making a reservation if you are set on dining out.
There are no restaurants in Niñóns so definitely arrange dinner with your guesthouse if you’re staying in the village. Those overnighting in As Garzas will have access to the restaurants listed above.
Distance | 27 km
Duration | 9.5 hours
Elevation | 697 m
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Returning back to the calm aqua bay of Praia de Niñóns to start Stage 2, the trail continues west along the Costa da Morte.
Skirting around a towering eucalypt forest and along the edge of a rocky cliff that borders the boundless turquoise sea, you’ll pass a pair of tiny secluded coves before arriving to Porto de Santa Mariña.
Marked by a stripe of quaint fishing sheds each identified by a colourful door, this flat rocky outcrop is a popular spot to cast a line with serene views down the coast towards the red-capped spire of Nariga Lighthouse in the distance – a fitting reminder of just how far you’ve already walked.
Veering around the peninsula and cutting inland, the trail enters a tract of tall eucalypts that felt like being back in the Aussie bush for a bit, before emerging into fields of bracken and continuing to a rocky hilltop overlooking the next bay.
From here the path bends around the inlet of Enseada da Barda, crossing its two small beaches where fishermen armed with buckets and nets wade through the shallows in search of the day’s catch.
Climbing gradually, the path traces the undulating coastal landscapes past Punta do Castro and Punta de Eiras before turning inland towards O Roncudo where you’ll reach the asphalt road.
Juxtaposing brightly coloured cottages framed in well-tended pot plants with tumbledown stone facades at risk of being engulfed by vines, this tiny village is an intriguing departure from the coastal scenery of the hike thus far.
Continuing along a dirt road over the highest point of the stage, the trail brings you back towards the water and follows a hilly stretch of coastline with some steep sections to Faro de Roncudo.
Just shy of half way and with the hardest part of the stage now behind you, Roncudo Lighthouse makes a decent spot for a picnic lunch.
Otherwise, stick to the road for most of the next 3 km and you’ll soon arrive in Corme, a great opportunity for a well-deserved coffee break.
From here the trail veers south to the Barra Dunes, hugging the occasionally steep coastline through several lovely beaches and undulating cliff lines.
The final ascent brings you to the rocky outcrop of Punta da Facha which gazes directly towards As Grelas across the bay before descending steeply to Praia de Balarés where the trail flattens out.
Push on to the powder-soft sand dunes which are punishing after a long day, and turn left to follow the estuary all the way to Ponteceso.
Beyond the fine sand you’ll reach a wide, stable path which feeds alongside the water, though some areas can be marshy or partially flooded where you’ll need to manoeuvre around them to avoid getting wet.
Where you hit the road, turn right onto a shaded boardwalk – the Sendero de Allones – to enter a wonderfully peaceful wetland area filled with birdlife and washed in golden light – a sublime way to end the day.
At the far end, you’ll emerge back onto the main road alongside the Anllóns River with the arched stone structure of the Ponteceso Bridge directly ahead to mark the end of the stage.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
If you’re spending your first night in Niñóns, be sure to factor in an additional 2.6 km / 45 minutes to your hike, or opt for a taxi transfer back to Praia de Niñóns to start the stage.
Though manageable in a single day, this is one of the longest stages (especially if factoring in the extra distance from Niñóns) and one of the more challenging days in terms of terrain.
All the steepest and longest hills fall within the first half of the day and things get considerably easier beyond Faro do Roncudo.
The only option to break up the stage would be to overnight in Corme where you’ll find several guesthouses and restaurants.
To shorten the stage, it’s possible to arrange a taxi transfer to Ponteceso from Faro do Roncudo, Corme or Praia de Balarés. There’s also a bus linking Ponteceso with Corme and, very infrequently, with Balarés. Check the timetable here.
This would however mean skipping out on the gorgeous stretch of coastline that leads to the Dunas da Barra and the lovely wetlands around town so I’d still recommend completing the entire stage if you can.
Ponteceso Accommodation |
Pensión Teyma | One of very few options in town, this traditional guesthouse is a decent budget choice in Ponteceso and conveniently located just 700 m from the bridge. Rooms are simple and cosy, if a little dated, but they’re perfectly comfortable and very reasonably priced. The owner is also super friendly and welcoming. Check rates and availability here.
Where To Eat |
There are no cafe options in Niñóns for breakfast so be sure to arrange this with your guesthouse ahead of time. Both Casa de Vasca and As Garzas on the As Garzas peninsula offer breakfast options for guests.
Corme is the only reliable place to eat lunch along Stage 2, however you’re likely to only arrive here around 3 p.m. depending on your start time, which is not ideal. Therefore, I’d recommend bringing a packed lunch to enjoy at the lighthouse and following this up with a drink or snack at one of the cafes in Corme.
Taberna A Torriña is a popular choice located right on the trail near Praia de Arnela. Otherwise, Cafe-Bar Casino and Bar O Cabazo are both top-rated restaurants.
For dinner, almost everyone I had met thus far on the Camino dos Faros ended up at the Bar Royale, conveniently located next door to Pensión Teyma. As the lovely host joked, after walking some 30 km, you’ll have no desire to walk any further. She wasn’t wrong!
You’ll find the standard menu offered in many bars across Galicia, but the Royale is best known for their pizzas and burgers with big portions that really hit the spot after a long day on trail. Otherwise, Cafetería O Cruce is another decent option located nearby.
Distance | 24.5 km
Duration | 8.5 hours
Elevation | 569 m
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After two days spent primarily along the coast, Stage 3 presents a different side of the Galician countryside, tracking inland and spending much of the day on peaceful forest trails.
During my visit, the devastating bushfires in northern Portugal were in full swing and a combination of smoky haze and intermittent drizzle had settled over the region making for a rather gloomy day all around.
But there are some beautiful scenes along this stage and a pair of stunning turquoise beaches near the end to welcome you back to the coast.
Crossing Ponteceso Bridge over the mirror-like swathe of the Anllóns River, the route follows the main road to the outskirts of town before veering right onto a dirt track that will bring you through the forest and back to the estuary.
The wide, flat path of the paseo marítimo is a popular walking and birdwatching spot for locals and provides a gentle start to the day, following the waterway for 4.5 km until you reach As Grelas.
Heading inland from here, the trail narrows and meanders between fields and verdant forests along the beautiful Ruta do Rego dos Muíños which clings to the babbling stream of the same name.
This route once held great economic significance, passing by 24 stone mills that used the force of the river and its cascades to grind corn and wheat into flour.
These muíños are a common sight along the Camino dos Faros, though most now lie abandoned, timeworn and draped in greenery.
The forest trail begins to climb gently before rejoining the paved road for a short way and passing through the small villages of Vilaseco, A Gandara and A Fontefría.
Though not directly on the official route, it’s worthwhile to take a short detour to the ruins of Castro de Borneiro (just 600 m from Vilaseco) and the curious Dolme de Dombate, a megalithic monument that dates back to 3,700 BC and is located right beside the trail.
Entry is free, though information is in Spanish only.
Onwards through the villages, you’ll join a dirt road which climbs gradually to Castelo de Lourido through the forest flanked by lilac flowers and bracken.
Tread quietly and you might be lucky enough to see one of the many deer which occupy these landscapes.
On a clear day, Castelo de Lourido in an ideal vantage point, overlooking the rolling green hills of Galicia punctured by wind turbines, with the wide crescent bay of Laxe sprawled out below.
As the highest point of the day, and of the entire Camino dos Faros, this also makes a perfect spot for a picnic lunch.
The trail pitches sharply downhill from here amongst a beautiful stretch of eucalypts, bringing you back onto the asphalt through the villages of Arnela and Cánduas. A sea of terracotta rooftops that crowd around a mossy church spire.
Cross the main road through Taboído and continue through the forest where you’ll emerge back on the water for the final section of the stage.
Weaving across the rugged coastline, you’ll arrive at the gorgeous twin bays of Praia de Rebordelo and Praia de San Pedro.
It was pouring with rain when I arrived here, but in the sunshine, I imagine this would make a lovely spot for a swim and a snack before the final hour of the walk.
Onwards, the trail makes a beeline for Punta do Cabaio where it veers south and clings to the shoreline all the way to the sweeping shores of Laxe Beach.
Keep an eye out for the enchanting aqua cove of Coido dos Muiños about half way along where the ruins of Muiños de Frexufre stand perched on a rocky outcrop alongside a sea cave and small cascade that glides into the water.
Arriving to the eastern end of Playa de Laxe, a wooden boardwalk feeds behind a set of small dunes and brings you the rest of the way into town.
Once you’ve settled in, it’s worthwhile taking a short stroll through the port to look back on the pastel facades of the village, and having a peak at the lichen-covered Igrexa de Santa María da Atalaia.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
As one of the shorter and easier stages, this is a good day to cover plenty of ground early so you have the opportunity to rest and enjoy the afternoon by the beach – either at Praia de Rebordelo / San Pedro or in Laxe.
The trail is mostly clear and well marked, but there are some important intersections on this stage which are not completely obvious and where it’s helpful to refer to a map – namely around Castelo de Lourido on the section between A Fontefría and Arnela.
I met other hikers who accidentally skipped a turn in the village and ended up missing out on Lourido altogether. Similarly when descending from the hill, carefully follow the most obvious path to the left and ignore the gray trail markers which match up with the gpx track.
This will take you into spiky knee-high vegetation which is a nightmare to navigate, while the obvious path heads downhill and darts right after 100m and joins up on a proper trail soon enough.
Further, the trail to Castro A Cibda de Borneiro from Vilaseco is not marked and is easy to miss so be sure to keep an eye on your map if you plan to visit here. Though short, this 1.2 km detour is also not factored in to the official distance tally.
Finally, when you enter the forest at Coido dos Muiños, there are several trail markers pointing in different directions. Head right to cross over the small stream and return to the coast.
Laxe Accommodation |
Hostal Residencia Bahia | This classic local guesthouse is a decent budget choice, located on the hillside above Laxe’s marina. The simple rooms are clean and colourful with the larger options including ocean views or a balcony overlooking the bay. The host is very welcoming and helpful and there’s a drying room onsite to air out your hiking gear – a great help after three days on trail. Check rates and availability here.
Hotel VIDA Mar de Laxe | This modern 3-star hotel located at the southern end of Laxe Beach offers comfortable, excellent value rooms, particularly during the off season. The spacious roof deck overlooks the entire bay and guests love the friendly staff, sumptuous breakfast and fantastic in-house restaurant. Check rates and availability here.
Hotel Boutique O Náutico | As the name suggests, this charming boutique hotel offers bright modern rooms with a nautical theme woven throughout. Set right beside the beach, most rooms include sea views and a small coffee machine. A basic breakfast is also included. Check rates and availability here.
Where To Eat |
If you stayed in Pensión Teyma in Ponteceso, it makes sense to pop next door for breakfast at the Bar Royale where you’ll find the standard toast and coffee. Nearby Cafetería O Cruce is another popular choice and also opens early.
Before setting off, stock up on bread and pastries from Panaderías Forniños Sl, the best bakery in Ponteceso. For other snacks and supplies, visit either of the supermarkets – Eroski or Dia – located opposite each other on the main road.
Supposedly, there’s also a top-rated bakery – Panadería Fariña – in Taboído, however this was closed during my visit. Aside from As Grelas which you’ll pass in the morning, there are no other dining options along the route so a packed lunch is a good idea.
For dinner, Laxe has plenty of restaurants scattered along the beachfront, though these can get busy. From north to south, Restaurante Mar De Fondo, Rabo de Peixe and Restaurante O Náutico are all recommended for seafood. For a more laidback pub setting, A Cervecería de Laxe is a popular choice.
Distance | 18 km to Arou / 15.5 km to Camelle
Duration | 7 hours / 6.5 hours
Elevation | 274 m
—
Stage 4 is by far the shortest and easiest of the Camino dos Faros and provides a much-needed opportunity to recover in preparation for the three long stages that follow it.
Though officially this stage ends in Arou, accommodation here is extremely limited and so the charming fishing village of Camelle (pronounced Came-jeh), which is located just 2.5 km shy of Arou, is a popular alternative.
Personally, I loved Camelle and think it’s actually the better option to end the stage with more restaurants and things to do.
Setting off from Laxe, the trail begins along the Ruta Percebe de Laxe which guides you past the rocky platforms that play host to the percebe or gooseneck barnacles, a delicacy in the region, and several placards describing their habitat and harvesting practices.
The path continues up Monte da Insua and swings around Punta da Cruciña to arrive at the first lighthouse of the day – Faro de Laxe.
Continuing around the peninsula, the trail flattens out and passes a hilltop cemetery that sits above Praia dos Cristais, a tiny put popular inlet blanketed in weathered fragments of green and white glass.
Meandering down the coastline and navigating between a patchwork of fields bound with lichen-covered stone walls, the trail ascends the rocky cap of Peñón do Castro.
The turquoise arch of Praia de Soesta sprawls out beneath the peak and you can either walk across the shoreline, carefully avoiding the many streams that cross the sand, or via the path which circles the bay.
If you’ve enjoyed a late start to the day, the protected far end of the Soesta Beach makes an excellent place to gobble down your lunch and cool off with a refreshing swim.
With Peñón do Castro behind you, the route remains more or less flat for the rest of the day, a well-deserved break from the usually hilly coastal terrain.
Onwards, the route trails alongside a deeply furrowed rocky platform before joining a wide dirt track and gravel road to the popular surf beach of Praia de Traba which extends parallel to the Traba Lagoon.
A wooden boardwalk cuts through the wetlands here behind the beach and provides access to a couple of birdwatching hutches, but the vegetation is so dense you really can’t see much.
The picnic area at the far end of the beach is another decent lunch spot before crossing through clusters of purple heath and rounding the bend of Punta das Pías to enter an intriguing maze of enormous boulders.
Streaked in burnt orange and deep cracks, manoeuvring amongst these granite giants is a really fun section of the stage, all while following the breadcrumb trail of green dots and Traski footprints that mark the way.
With Camelle now visible straight ahead, the trail zips past the stony bays of Coído Da Señora and Sabadelle and joins the paved road to Praia de Camelle and the waterfront promenade.
Camelle holds a spectacular location nestled amongst green hills speckled with white boulders and is a lovely spot to while away the afternoon.
Colourful boats bob peacefully in the bay, fisherman cast their lines from the rocks and, as the day begins to slip away, thick sea fog coalesces with vibrant afternoon light, illuminating the coastline in a dreamy golden haze.
There’s also plenty to learn about the town’s most curious blow in, the Alemán de Camelle.
Hailing from Germany, Manfred Gnädinger, the Alemán or just Man as he is often referred, arrived to Camelle in the early 1960s and stayed until his death in 2002.
He built a small hut on the foreshore and made a garden of naturalistic sculptures that remain to this day. He lived an isolated life, intimately intertwined with the nature that surrounded him.
In November 2002, an oil spill off the coast devastated the delicate local ecosystem and caused the deaths of countless marine animals and the vegetation that fringed the coast. Man died the following month, supposedly of a broken heart.
The spill, caused by the sinking of the Prestige oil tanker, affected more than 2,000 km of coastline across the Iberian Peninsula and became the worst environmental disaster in Spain’s history.
An unlikely hero in this small fishing village on the remote Galician coast, Man was slowly adopted as part of the fabric of Camelle and now in death, this obscure character is fondly memorialised in many tiny details across town.
The Museo do Alemán is a good place to start before wandering down to the pier to view the remnants of his home – the Casa do Alemán de Camelle – and his sculptures. Admittedly, they have seen better days, but it’s impossible not to contemplate the unique and lonely life he must have lived on these shores.
Signs implore visitors not to cross the fence line to avoid damage to the site – please respect that by keeping to the road.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
As the shortest and easiest stage, this one can be comfortably completed in a single day with no deviations.
There are some small undulating hills, but the way is mostly flat and straightforward. Savour the extra time at the sweeping beaches.
For those stopping in Camelle, be sure to factor in the additional 2.5 km / 30 minutes to Arou the following morning which will extend Stage 5 to Camariñas into a 26.5 km day.
Arou / Camelle Accommodation |
O Refuxio do Náufrago | Thoughtfully designed, impeccably clean and exceptionally well run, this cosy and welcoming hostel in Camelle is easily the best along the entire Camino dos Faros. Translating as ‘The Refuge of the Castaway’, you’ll find comfortable shared and private rooms, a sunny rooftop terrace, spacious bathrooms, free laundry access, included breakfast and a variety of hot drinks, fruit and other thoughtful treats available throughout the day. Check rates and availability here.
Os Faros Pisos Turísticos | Modern, spacious and tastefully designed, these beautiful apartments located a short walk from Arou Beach are an excellent choice for those seeking a private space or hankering for a rest day. Check rates and availability here.
Where To Eat |
Up the far end of Laxe, O Ben me Sabe is one of very few cafes in town that reliably opens early. Expect the usual selection of tostadas for breakfast, along with an array of cakes, pastries, empanadas and fresh bread. A Nova Despensa is another possibility for breakfast, however was closed during my visit.
There are no cafes along the stage until you reach Camelle, but you really can’t beat a picnic lunch on the beautiful sandy swaths of Praia de Soesto or Praia de Traba. Gobbling down an empanada while moseying barefoot between the powdery shores and pristine water is pure bliss.
For dinner, almost every restaurant in Camelle was closed during my visit, but I had an enjoyable meal at O Estanco Bar which was packed with locals. Café Rotterdam located on the waterfront is another popular choice. Friendly Restaurante O Colmado is your best bet in Arou.
Distance | 24 km from Arou / 26.5 km from Camelle
Duration | 8.5 hours / 9 hours
Elevation | 303 m
—
Hiking between Camelle and Camariñas was hands down my favourite day of the Camino dos Faros.
Stringing together a thread of azure beaches, rolling hills and the most dramatic lighthouse of the entire route which hovers on the horizon for much of the day, Stage 5 will not disappoint.
Despite being long (especially if starting from Camelle), the route is much flatter than other stages with just a few small ascents which means you can afford to mooch about in the beautiful bays without having to worry about what lies ahead.
If you’re beginning from Camelle, veer left at the pier and continue through the outskirts of town.
Follow the stone lined path that cuts across Punta Percebeira and past Praia da Lagoa to the calm bay of Praia de Arou wrapped in a colourful cascade of cottages.
Heading west, the trail passes Praia de Lobeiras speckled with fishing huts and the small marina of Porto de Santa Mariña.
Onwards, rolling hills carpeted in heath and coastal vegetation will bring you up the sand dune of Monte Branco which overlooks the gorgeous stretch of Praia do Trece.
This glorious 1.5 km section of the Costa da Morte is divided by rocky outcrops that jut into the sea, creating five smaller beaches where clear turquoise water laps at powdery blonde sand.
It’s the kind of postcard perfect scene you might expect from somewhere like the Balearic Islands rather than windswept Galicia, and, best of all, you might just have the place all to yourself!
Pushing on, the distant Faro Vilán springs into view, casting a striking silhouette perched atop a rugged promontory. Anchored just off the point, the small limestone islet of Illa Vilán de Fóra almost resembles a pack of square-jawed Great Danes guarding their keep.
Circling Punta do Boi, the trail follows a wide dirt track through the heath before joining the asphalt road heading south. Further along, a small path deviates past four more stunning beaches before climbing back up to the road.
Crossing the saddle beneath Monte de Pedrosa, the highest point of the day, the Vilán Lighthouse reenters the scene, acting as an ever present north star as you continue down the coast.
Back on the road, the trail swings around Enseada de Arneliña, remaining high on the cliffs above an irresistibly blue bay, before bringing you up a final ascent to the ochre-stained lighthouse.
Standing proud on a rocky bluff that rises from the sea, Faro Vilán is just as impressive up close as from afar. It’s the kind of scene that would make a perfect backdrop to an old pirate film.
Finalised in 1896, Faro Vilán was also the first electric lighthouse in Spain as remains as one of the most powerful along this stretch of coast.
While any of the earlier beaches would make an ideal spot for lunch, if you’ve held off until now, enjoying your picnic in the cool shade of the Vilán Lighthouse Museum while overlooking the vast coastline is equally as scenic.
Leaving the lighthouse behind, pick your way down the rocky slopes that surround Cabo Vilán and circle an unfortunately positioned fish farm, before continuing south along a dirt road across the rolling landscapes.
The hilltop hermitage of Ermida da Virxe do Monte is visible ahead for much of the way and is reached via a short final ascent.
The views from here are wonderful over looking the bay with the rustic Faro da Villueira guarding the mouth of the Ría de Camariñas estuary below.
On the opposite bank, Muxia’s colourful congregation of houses adorns Punta da Barca which will be tomorrow’s destination.
The trail descends sharply back to the coastline, swinging around the pearly shores of Praia do Lago and across Punta Villueira, to bring you back to the asphalt road on the outskirts of town.
On the way in, you’ll pass another timeworn lighthouse on the roadside that is clearly too far inland to be of any practical use, before arriving at the lively and colourful port of Camariñas.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
This was my favourite day and, despite it being a long one from Camelle, I wouldn’t change a thing.
The beaches in the first half of the day are exceptional, the best of the Camino dos Faros in my opinion, and it’s well worth stopping for a swim if you can brave the icy water.
There’s nowhere to feasibly break up this stage, but if you are looking to shorten it, the road intersects with the trail several times where you could arrange for a taxi transfer to Camariñas.
Easiest would be from Faro Vilán which sits at the 16 km mark (19 km from Camelle), or the parking lot located beneath the Hermitage which would save you the final hour of walking.
Camariñas Accommodation |
Camariñas is a popular destination in its own right and accommodation does get busy here. Be sure to book well in advance for the peak summer months or if your visit coincides with a weekend.
O Mar de Preciosa | Located right by the water, this beautiful boutique hotel oozes beach chic vibes and is a lovely place to spend the night in Camariñas. Rooms are super comfortable and many offer ocean views. Check-in is contactless and there are both indoor and outdoor seating areas to enjoy a well earned glass of vino at the end of a long day. Check rates and availability here.
Hotel Puerto Arnela | Located right beside the port, this friendly and cosy hotel is a good value option in Camariñas. Check rates and availability here.
Where To Eat |
You’ll be hard pressed to find somewhere in sleepy Camelle that opens before 9 a.m. so I’d recommend either finding accommodation that offers breakfast, or pushing straight on to Arou.
Camelle reportedly has two small stores, through both were closed during my visit.
Arou’s Restaurante O Colmado serves breakfast and has a small shop and bakery onsite to replenish your snack and lunch supplies if needed. Empanadas are available and their enormous freshly baked baguettes can be purchased in full or half portions for solo hikers. They also open briefly on Sundays.
There are no restaurants along today’s stage so a packed lunch is essential.
In Camariñas you’ll find a number of seafood restaurants wrapped around the port, though once again, most were unfortunately closed during my visit (are we sensing a theme here…).
Taberna do Bico and Restaurante Serpent are both on the pricier side but receive excellent reviews, while Restaurante Praia do Cansorro and Restaurante A Marina are located on the opposite side of the port and are also popular options.
You’ll find both Eroski and Froiz supermarkets in Camariñas to stock up on supplies.
Distance | 32 km
Duration | 10 hours
Elevation | 520 m
—
Officially, this stage from Camariñas to Muxia (pronounced Mushia) is the longest of the Camino dos Faros, however, if you follow the same itinerary as I did, Stage 7 will actually wind up being even longer.
Thankfully, the first half of the trail is largely flat and navigates around the Bay of Basa and the narrow inlet of Ría do Porto, allowing you to cover plenty of ground early in the day.
Peeling out of from Camariñas, the route follows the road before veering off past Praia de Area da Vila and Praia de Lingunde where it enters the forest that frames the Bay of Basa.
Awash with soft morning light, ribbons of mist drape across the green hills that roll across the opposite bank and the still water perfectly mirrors the the sky – a wonderfully tranquil setting to begin the day.
Briefly join the paved road at Trasteiro before circling around Punta Sandria and Ariño Beach and returning to the asphalt at Tasaraño.
From here the trail follows a series of small alleyways that connect the villages surrounding the main road and lead you into Ponte do Porto.
Crossing the town’s arched bridge, continue down the riverside promenade towards the complex of Cereixo which dates back to the 10th century and where you’ll find the watermill, cathedral and towers, alongside and a beautiful centuries-old oak tree.
Pushing on past the cemetery, the trail rejoins a wide forested path that heads west along the south bank of the estuary.
Continue around the sandy point at Praia Area Grande and the teal bay of Praia da Barreira to reach Faro de Punta do Lago perched on a rocky outcrop.
Beyond the lighthouse, the wide swathe of Praia do Lago extends ahead where you can either stick to the sand and cross the river at the far end on foot, or head to the road behind the beach and cross over the bridge.
Though it does get windy, Praia Area Grande sits just after the half way point and makes a decent spot for lunch, though Praia do Lago is more pleasant and has a large shaded area and a few picnic tables.
That said, its location two thirds of the way through the stage which will make for quite a late lunch.
Onwards to Muxia, the trail sticks mostly along paved road, weaving between the small villages of Merexo and Os Muiños.
The Camino dos Faros intersects with the Camino Finisterre along this stretch – a popular extension from Santiago de Compostela for those hiking the Camino de Santiago or Camino Portugués – and you’ll see the frequent blue and yellow scallop shell markers along the roadside.
The routes split again in Os Muiños so be careful to keep an eye out for the green arrows to stay on the right track.
On the edge of the village, the trail pitches steeply downhill into lush rainforest that shrouds the Ruta Fluvial Rio Negro. This beautiful section follows a series of newly constructed boardwalks alongside the river past several vine covered muiños.
Emerging from the forest at Praia dos Muiños, another boardwalk skirts around the bay and joins a forested track on the far side which climbs to the village of Chorente and the hilltop vantage point from where you can see the colourful facades of Muxia below.
Finally, descend to Praia Espiñeirido and cross Praia Da Cruz to reach the waterfront promenade which guides the way into town.
Muxia is one of the prettiest and liveliest towns along the Camino dos Faros, sprawling across a narrow isthmus that climbs into Monte de Corpiño and extends into the rocky promontory of Punta da Barca that juts into the sea.
The town also intersects with the Camino Finisterre so you’ll see plenty of pilgrims about, as well as regular holiday makers keen to enjoy the magnificent location.
Officially, the stage continues for a further 2 km, climbing to the hilltop mirador on Monte de Corpiño which rises behind the maze of tiny streets and offers up stunning views, before circling the rocky promontory of Punta da Barca.
Here the spectacularly situated cathedral of Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca, Faro de Muxia and the powerful sculpture of A Ferida all compete for attention.
Translating as ‘The Wound’, this enormous pillar with a lightening bolt cut through its centre, is a monument to the same oil spill that devastated Camelle and the thousands of volunteers that contributed to the recovery effort.
Despite being short in distance, this final section is remarkable, even straying into theatrical territory when the enormous waves crash across the rocks and throw up plumes of salty spray around the cathedral.
It’s worth spending at least an hour soaking in the views and exploring the area, which I can confidently say, is probably not something you’ll be keen to do, or fully appreciate, after nearly 10 hours on trail.
With a rain storm bearing down as I arrived in town, I made a beeline to my hostel and was ready to call it a day there.
Once my boots were off and my feet were up, there was no way I was peeling myself away from my cosy hostel bed for anything other than cake and dinner.
But if you’ve still got some fuel left in the tank, you could certainly continue straight on, or drop your bags at your guesthouse and then venture over to the cathedral in time for sunset.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
A mammoth day on trail, though thankfully much of the morning is spent on reasonably flat and easy terrain which helps you to cover plenty of ground quickly.
If you are only planning to break up one stage, this is the one to choose. Playa de Lago is the best option for a stop over with a hotel, hostel, camping ground and restaurant available.
To shorten the stage, the trail intersects with the road at many points where you could arrange a taxi pick-up. Lago Beach or Muiños Beach make the most sense, or any of the villages in the latter section of the hike.
Alternatively, I’d recommend pushing through the full stage and then factoring in a rest day in Muxia.
This will allow for some well-deserved recuperation before tackling the final two stages, as well as additional time to explore the sights of Punta da Barca, mooch about on the beaches around town, catch up on laundry, and indulge on the fantastic seafood restaurants on offer.
If I was to do the hike again, this is the one change that I would make to my own Camino dos Faros itinerary. Read my other top tips for the the hike in this post.
Now, while this stage officially ends with the circuit around Punta da Barca, one of the most impressive sections of the entire Camino dos Faros, suffice to say that few people are going to be in the mood to fully appreciate it after such a long day.
If you’re anything like me, you might prefer to complete this loop the following morning when you can better savour the experience (with or without your pack) before beginning the official stage. Watching the sunrise from Monte de Corpiño is also rather special.
However, keep in mind that this will create another very long day on Stage 7, particularly if you’re forced to push on to Lires rather than finishing up in Nemiña (more on this below).
Muxia Accommodation |
With a regular stream of pilgrims in Muxia, you’ll find plenty albergues geared towards hikers alongside some beautiful private apartments. It’s worth noting that in most shared accommodation you’ll be provided with ‘disposable bedding’ rather than proper linen. This is common practice in the region, though admittedly, I’m really not a fan.
Hostels | I stayed at both Albergue Arribada and Muxia Mare, two of the most popular albergues in Muxia which largely cater to hikers. Both are decent with large dormitories, a small selection of private rooms and a communal kitchen, though the facilities are far more spacious at Albergue Arribada which would be my preference of the two.
Apartments | My top picks are Solpor do Coído, Estudios en Plaza Cabo da Vila and Apartamentos Costa da Morte which are all located in the heart of Muxia, provide excellent value private rooms and studio apartments with contactless electronic entry.
Where To Eat |
For breakfast before leaving Camariñas, I was keen to try the Argentinian cafe, Mate y Alfajor, which serves a varied menu of toast with avocado and cream cheese or nutella and strawberry, yoghurt with muesli, traditional Latin empanadas and a selection of pastries. However, you guessed it, they were closed.
On the edge of town, Panaderia Barcia is a reliable option for fresh bread and sweet treats to cover the long day ahead. You’ll also find a couple of small cafes in Tasaraño if you can hold off on satisfying your caffeine and breaky fix.
If you missed out on picking up groceries in Camariñas, there’s a large Eroski on the main road in Ponte do Porto.
This stage has more cafe and restaurant options than most, though few are ideally located for a lunch stop. You’ll find a couple of cafes in Ponte do Porto, about a third of the way through the stage, while Restaurante Playa de Lago sits about two thirds of the way along and serves traditional fare.
Given the length of the stage, I would still recommend bringing plenty of snacks and supplies for a packed lunch.
For dinner, both Plaia das Lanchas and Restaurante A Marina de Muxia are popular water facing options that serve large portions of tasty Galician seafood in a laidback fuss-free atmosphere. They also offer half portions on suitable dishes. A Furna is the best-rated restaurant in town but is on the pricier side.
Muxia has both an Eroski and a Froiz for groceries. Head to Panadaría Xurés for bread and pastries.
Distance | 25 km to Nemiña / 33 km to Lires with Punta da Barca
Duration | 8.5 hours / 11 hours
Elevation | 851 m / 1,064 m
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Having skipped the circuit around Punta da Barca the previous afternoon this was first on the agenda today.
Witnessing the inky darkness melting into dawn, the magnificent landscapes across the bay blanketed in mist and the cathedral towers illuminated in rich morning light, I was glad I waited.
As I was also pushing onto Lires, this did however mean that I had the longest and hilliest day of the hike ahead of me.
Officially beginning from Praia do Coido on the west of Muxia, the trail heads south down the peninsula and crosses Praia de Lourido before beginning the first climb of the day to Monte Cachemo.
With the smoky bushfire haze now washed away by heavy rainfall the previous night, it was brilliant cobalt skies all around with sun-drenched Muxia draped across the peninsula below and the recognisable spire of Faro Vilán piercing the horizon in the distance.
Continuing south via a combination of narrow overgrown trails and gravel roads, you’ll arrive at Punta da Buitra with a further ascent to Monte da Mitra.
From here you can see straight down the coast and the steep rugged landscapes that lead to Cabo Touriñan and the narrow isthmus that connects it the mainland.
Follow the undulating hills through some very spiky vegetation – wearing long pants is a good idea today – and patches of open forest, past small pebble coves and rocky cliff lines, to Monte Pedrouzo, the highest point of the day.
From here, the route descends gradually to the emerald bay of Praia de Moreira which makes a decent place to stop for lunch, about 14 km into the stage.
Over another hill and through a vibrant patchwork of fields, you’ll reach the road that guides visitors to the tip of Cabo Touriñán.
Keep in mind that you’ll be returning to this exact point in an hour or so.
Stick to the road, climbing gradually before veering right onto a grassy track that encircles the wild peninsula and brings you to Faro Touriñán perched at the end of the windswept promontory. This marks the most westerly point of mainland Spain.
Enjoy a well-deserved break here before following the flat trail that completes the circuit around the cape and returns to the paved road in preparation for yet another gradual climb.
Push on through the quaint village of Campos and cross the hillside to reach the outskirts of Nemiña.
Back on the road, weave slowly downhill through the village to the popular surf break at Nemiña Beach which marks the end of the stage.
If you’re pushing on to Lires, skirt around the buildings behind the beach and take the gravel road up onto the headland.
Following to the end, the trail looks down on the mouth of Ria de Lires where it veers inland and enters the forest before cutting around the river and joining a cobbled track that leads into Vaosilveiro.
Finally, cross the bridge over a lush fern-lined stretch of the inlet and complete the short, gentle climb into Lires.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
Accommodation in the tiny surfers hamlet of Nemiña is extremely limited and hikers often have no choice but to continue on to Lires where there are many more options available.
This additional stretch takes around 1.5 hours / 5 km of walking, however it’s common for visitors to spend extra time enjoying the beautiful Praia de Nemiña and then arrange a taxi transfer to Lires and begin walking directly from here the following day.
There is nowhere really suitable to break up the stage, though for those looking to have a shorter day, it is feasible to arrange a pick-up from Faro Touriñán located at the 19 km mark.
If you start your day with the circuit around Muxia’s Punta da Barca and finish by pushing on to Lires, your day will add up to around 33 km. Including a bit extra between my guesthouses and the trail and pottering about at Cape Touriñan, my gps came to 36 km by the end of the day so definitely don’t underestimate the distance for this one.
Nemiña / Lires Accommodation |
Hospedium A Casa Da Reina | Set 1.2 km back from Nemiña Beach, this whitewashed guesthouse is an excellent option for those eager to stay in Nemiña. Rooms are spacious and bright with a fully-equipped kitchen, just a 15 minute walk from the trail. Check rates and availability here.
Hotel Rural Casa Fontequeiroso | Another option for Nemiña, though located 2.5 km from the beach, this charming guesthouse is warm and welcoming with meal options available. Check rates and availability here.
As Eiras | The only budget option in Lires and a popular choice for hikers, As Eiras offers dormitories in the separate albergue building next door and private rooms in the main hotel. The staff are really helpful and breakfast and dinner are available from the onsite restaurant. Check rates and availability here.
LiresCa | A beautiful hotel in the heart of Lires with views towards the estuary, guests love the well-appointed rooms, spacious bathrooms and fantastic in-house restaurant. Check rates and availability here.
Where To Eat |
Keen to set off early, I made my own breakfast in the albergue kitchen, but you’ll find a number of cafes in town which supposedly open early. Check out Cafetería Antoxiños or Plaia das Lanchas.
There are no dining options for lunch over the next two stages, nor are there any shops or bakeries in Nemiña or Lires so be sure you stock up well before leaving Muxia with enough supplies for two days of hiking.
These final two stages are also the hilliest of the entire route so don’t skimp on the snacks and cheeky treats.
For dinner, most accommodation in Lires will have an in house restaurant so you won’t have to go far. Otherwise, O Recuncho de Lires is a relaxed local favourite and serves large, tasty portions at very reasonable prices.
For something different to the usual Galician fare, top-rated A Braña offers a varied menu created from organic, home-grown produce.
Distance | 27 km from Nemiña / 22 km from Lires
Duration | 8.5 hours / 7 hours
Elevation | 964 m / 852 m
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Starting in Lires for the final stage of the Camino dos Faros, I was raring to go and keen for a comparatively short day of hiking ahead.
Setting off along the southern bank of the Rio de Lires, the trail soon returns to the coast. After a night of wild weather, the wind was whipping across the ocean cliffs and the waves were heaving.
Follow the wide path down the coast, over rolling hills framed in rugged cliffs that tumble into the rough sea until you reach the vast beaches of Mexadoira and Rostro.
Wander across the endless sandy bay before cutting around Punta do Rostro and continuing down the vibrant green coastline, past picturesque Praia da Arnela and onto the headland above which makes an excellent place to stop for lunch.
Onwards, the dramatic landscapes continue and the trail climbs gradually to the tower atop Monte Veladoiro, also known as the Cape of Nave.
Traverse the hillside and descend sharply towards Praia do Mar de Fóra – the final beach of the Camino dos Faros – navigating across the bay, either via the sand or the boardwalk which runs behind it.
Swing through the outskirts of Finisterre in preparation for the final ascent of the hike to Mount Facho where you’ll be welcomed by fantastic views overlooking the cape and very last lighthouse of the trip.
With the gnarled tip of Cabo de Finisterre jutting into the sea ahead, adorned by Faro de Fisterra, this is a special point for every hiker on the Camino dos Faros and only add to the excitement.
Derived from the Latin phrase for the ‘end of the Earth’, Finisterre or Fisterra in Galician, is a fitting title for this narrow finger of land that protrudes into the boundless ocean.
From here, the trail joins the paved road for the final 1.5 km descent to the Cape Finisterre Lighthouse.
After a week of utter solitude along the remote Costa da Morte, you’ll be thrust into the bustle of day trippers, tour groups and pilgrims that flock to this spectacular end-of-the-world peninsula.
The celebratory atmosphere is palpable and, while the sudden increase in foot traffic can feel a little jarring after the quiet of the trail, I can imagine no better place to end a magnificent week along the Lighthouse Way.
Historically, many pilgrims ventured beyond Santiago de Compostela continuing their walk to the cliffs of Finisterre to witness the sun sinking below the watery horizon as a final moment of majesty on their cross country journey.
Today, the Camino Finisterre remains a popular addition from Santiago and most hikers, having walked for hundreds of kilometres, end their pilgrimage here with an obligatory photo at ‘el último mojón’ – the final 0 km camino marker.
While there’s no similarly symbolic end point for the Camino dos Faros, if you walk around the lighthouse onto the rocks beyond, you’ll find the metal sculpture of the ‘Bota do Peregrino’, the Pilgrim’s Boot, and nearby, the last trail of tiny green footprints that have guided your way here and make a charming bookend to the walk.
As visitors have done for centuries, it is a rite of passage to watch the sun sink towards the horizon from Cabo Fisterra after completing your hike and it really is the perfect way to end your trip.
I’d recommend arriving in the hours before sunset and settling in amongst the rocks to watch the spectacle before joining the march of visitors returning to town in the dark.
In summer, the sun won’t set until around 10 p.m. so you’ll be better off heading straight to town, but in the shoulder season, I’d suggest trying to time your arrival with the sunset so you can avoid travelling back and forth.
Hiking Tips + Route Deviations |
Officially, this final stage is 27 km from Nemiña or 22 km from Lires, ending at the magnificent Cabo Finisterre.
However this doesn’t factor in the further 3 km required to get you to the village of Finisterre where you’ll find most of the accommodation.
It’s also possible to catch a taxi or one of the infrequent buses that travel the route. Check the timetable here.
Even outside of peak season, there tends to be a constant stream of visitors that watch the sunset and then walk back to town along the road in the fading light so you’re likely have some company here despite the darkness. Having a head torch on hand isn’t a bad idea.
Finisterre Accommodation |
As the largest town on the Camino dos Faros, there is plenty of choice in Finisterre, from lively hostels and cosy pensións to boutique and luxury hotels.
Hostal Rivas | An excellent value option in town offering spacious, comfortable and clean private rooms. A decent breakfast is included and the manager is super helpful. It’s also just 250 metres from the bus stop. Check rates and availability here.
Where To Eat |
Breakfast is available at most guesthouses in Lires and Nemiña, otherwise the in-house restaurant at As Eiras is a reliable spot.
As mentioned, there are no restaurants along this stage so be sure to bring a packed lunch.
Once you’ve arrived in Finisterre, don’t miss the excellent little cake and coffee shop, Batidor Pasteleria. Owned by a friendly Hungarian family, you’ll find a delicious a selection of cakes and sweet treats from both from Central Europe and Galicia – the perfect reward after your hike! Breakfast is also available.
For dinner, you’ll find an array of well-rated seafood and traditional restaurants lining the waterfront. After a big day on trail, I went with As Baleas, a popular Italian restaurant on the promenade which serves up generous and delicious pizza and pasta dishes.
Things to do in Fisterra |
After completing the hike, many will head straight back to Santiago, but it’s well worth spending another day moseying around Finisterre if you’ve got the time.
Get lost in the twisting streets of Fisterra’s old town and learn about the region’s deeply-held traditions and long history of fishing at the small museum inside the Castelo de San Carlos. Entry is €2 and explanations are in Spanish only.
Though I missed out on this, it’s also possible to watch the fish auction take place from 5 p.m. at the Lonja de Finisterre on the port. An interesting experience and one of the last remaining auctions in the region that is open to visitors.
Finally, don’t miss Finisterre’s exceptional sunsets. If you’ve already been to Cabo Finisterre, the wide arc of Praia do Mar de Fóra is the next best option.
Often referred to as the Hippie Beach, it’s a gorgeous spot for an afternoon swim and an equally wonderful place to watch the sun sink into the horizon, casting a mesmerising glow across the bay to the soundtrack of crashing waves and the rhythmic thumbing of steel drums.
From Finisterre, there are just a handful of direct buses to Santiago each day, with a reduced schedule operating on Sundays and outside the peak summer season. Check the timetable here.
Buses can get very busy and it’s not uncommon for services to be fully booked, particularly the popular morning departures.
I’d recommend buying your ticket in advance from the ticket office rather than waiting until the time of departure.
Even in late September, I saw several hikers who were desperate to get back for their flights miss out on tickets so don’t get caught out. If you do get stuck, you can also arrange a taxi which will cost around €100.
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