11 December 2024.
Planning your hike along the Camino dos Faros? This guide has you covered with my top tips and helpful things to know before your trip.
Tracing a dramatic stretch of Galicia’s coastline, the Camino dos Faros, also known as the Lighthouse Way, guides keen hikers between the many lighthouses that grant safe passage along the treacherous Costa da Morte which extends between Malpica and Finisterre.
Covering 200km in just eight days, the trail crosses a beautifully unspoiled and isolated strip of coast and strings together charming fishing villages, rugged promontories, spectacular coastal scenery and countless glorious beaches.
There’s plenty to discover along the way, but the stages are long and often travel through hilly terrain which can be taxing. While there are no significant ascents or technical sections, this fantastic multi-day trail should not be underestimated.
As a lesser known trail, the Lighthouse Way sees far fewer visitors than Spain’s more famous cross country hikes.
The limited foot traffic, remote countryside and long days also mean there are several factors to consider when planning your trip to ensure you have the most enjoyable experience.
Things like where to stock up on trail snacks, whether you should stick to the official stages, where to stay and what to pack so that the more challenging days remain comfortable.
Along with my detailed day-to-day trail guide for the Camino dos Faros, this post covers all my top tips and helpful things to know for the hike.
Unlike the storied Camino de Santiago which harks back to the 10th century, the Camino dos Faros was only recently established in 2013 by a group of local hikers aiming to connect existing tracks used by fishermen and create a long-distance hiking route along the rugged Costa da Morte.
The hike officially begins in the small fishing village of Malpica and covers 200km of trail over eight stages to the tip of Cape Finisterre (Cabo Fisterra in Galician), which the ancient Romans believed to be the end of the Earth.
Along the way, the trail links several lighthouses, or faros, which stand proudly atop the craggy promontories that define this treacherous stretch of coastline.
Though often associated with Spain’s many camino routes, the Camino dos Faros is not a pilgrimage.
Each year, almost half a million people hike some part of these famous cross-country trails, though the most popular by far is the Camino de Santiago, also named the Way of Saint James or Camino Francés, which attracts around half of all pilgrims.
Beginning from Saint Jean Pied de Port in France, the Camino de Santiago covers some 772 km across the north of Spain, culminating at the impressive Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela, believed to be the burial sight of Saint James himself.
The Camino Portugués which travels between Porto and Santiago has also been gaining in popularity in recent years.
Historically, many pilgrims ventured beyond Santiago to the cliffs of Finisterre to witness the sun sinking below the watery horizon which marked a final moment of majesty on their expansive journey.
Today, the 90km Camino Finisterre, as it is now known, remains a popular addition to the traditional camino routes and intersects with the Camino dos Faros in several locations.
As a recent creation, the Camino dos Faros has none of the religious affiliations of the Way of Saint James, nor the ritualistic traditions that come with it.
For example, the ubiquitous ‘Buen Camino’ which is uttered universally in farewell on the historic pilgrimage routes is notably absent on the Lighthouse Way, that is, until the trails intersect.
Without these centuries of travellers, the Costa da Morte has also been allowed to remain wild and desolate, speckled with intermittent fishing villages and just enough infrastructure for hikers to get by with adequate preparation.
Though a few extra bakeries perhaps wouldn’t go astray, the feeling of quiet solitude that comes with these untamed coastal landscapes is one of the most affecting elements of the trail.
The Camino dos Faros is very well marked for the entire route with emerald footprints, dots and curved arrows of the Traski, the smiling green trail mascot, to guide the way.
Intersections en route are clearly indicated, though in some villages the way is less obvious.
I’d recommend downloading an offline map (I use maps.me) and the full gpx track of the hike to assist with navigation. This has been provided by the Camino dos Faros association and is available here.
It’s worth noting that there are a handful of sections where the arrows and gpx track differ, however this is generally the case where new roads or paths have been built and the arrows have been repainted to indicate the correct way.
Sticking to the official stages, you’ll need at least 10 days to complete the entire trail, including travel from and to Santiago de Compostela at the start and end of the trip.
Buses to Malpica run several times a day, however due to connections, the earliest you can arrive is around mid-afternoon – too late to commence the first stage of the hike.
Following the eight stages of the trail, watching the sunset from Faro de Finisterre is a non-negotiable finale to the hike so you’ll need to overnight in town before returning to Santiago the following day.
If you break up any of the stages or add in a rest day, something which I’d highly recommend, you’ll need to factor in additional time.
The Camino dos Faros is widely regarding as one of the most challenging camino routes due to the long stage distances and hilly terrain.
Diving into the trail stats, the individual stages officially range between 18 km and 32 km. However, depending on where your accommodation is located, it’s easy to accumulate extra kilometres on many of the stages.
I ended up with my shortest day being just 15 km and my longest clocking in at 36 km. Yep, it was a big one!
Seven of the eight stages also ended up at 25 km or more, while three ticked over the 30 km mark.
In terms of timing, most days rack up between 8 and 11 hours on trail so it’s important to consider exactly how long you’re comfortable walking each day, over consecutive days.
While there are no serious ascents – the highest point is just 312 m after all – the hillier stages accumulate close to 1,000m of elevation gain which, when combined with such a long day, can be demanding and should not be underestimated.
You’ll find more detail on each of the stages in this guide.
Now, if you’re a fit and seasoned hiker, it is manageable to complete the hike over eight days as it was intended, particularly in summer when you’ll have seemingly endless hours of daylight to play with.
That said, the fatigue does start to kick in over the latter stages so if you’ve got the time, I would highly recommend breaking up at least one of the stages or factoring in a full rest day to better appreciate your trip.
If I were to do the hike again, the one change I would make to my own itinerary would be to factor in a rest day in Muxia following the longest official stage. This would allow some much-needed time to recuperate, mooch about the beaches, and explore the attractions of Punta da Barca.
If you enjoy hiking at a more leisurely pace with plenty of time allocated to coffee stops, long lunches and beach swims, you may prefer splitting up more of the stages or adding additional rest days.
The most popular options include:
// splitting the longest stages and finding accommodation part way along
// walking a section of the stage and using taxis or public buses to skip the less interesting bits
// using one village as a base and completing multiple stages from there with a combination of transport and walking
When planning your itinerary, another major consideration is accommodation.
If you’re not relying on other forms of transport, the availability and location of guesthouses will be the biggest factor in determining exactly how far you hike each day.
In particular, Niñons, Arou and Nemiña have very limited options which may force you to stop earlier in the stage, push on to the next village or divert away from the trail. This can easily add an extra hour of walking to your day and may be where other modes of transport can be useful.
I’m definitely that person who will almost always choose to walk, but this was the main reason why so many of my days ended up around 30km.
For other suggestions on adjusting the individual stages, see the full Camino dos Faros guide.
Both Malpica and Finisterre are easily accessible by bus from Santiago de Compostela or A Coruña. Check the timetable here.
For taxis along the route, the Camino dos Faros Association has a very helpful summary of popular routes, costs and contacts which you can find here.
On key stages where taxis are often used – such as near Niñons and Nemiña – you’ll also see placards posted along the trail with contact information, particularly in areas where the reception is patchy.
Buses also exist along the route, though many services are infrequent and therefore not always convenient for reaching the more remote villages or accommodation.
Limited bus routes intersect with the trail (or close to it) at Malpica, Brizo (As Garzas), Corme, Ponteceso, As Grelas, Laxe, Camariñas, Ponte do Porto, Os Muíños, Muxia and Finisterre. Check timetables and routes here.
From laidback albergues and cosy pensións to boutique seaside guesthouses and luxurious hotels, you’ll find a wide variety of accommodation available along the Lighthouse Way.
That said, some of the smaller villages have extremely limited options – often just one or two places. If they happen to be fully booked during your trip, you’ll be forced to divert elsewhere, either on foot or by taxi.
In Muxia and Finisterre where there are plenty of hotels and guesthouse, you’ll have more flexibility, but for the tiny hamlets like Niñons, Arou and Nemiña, you’ll be very short on choice.
Therefore, I’d highly recommend booking well in advance, even outside of peak season, as the limited supply will fill up quickly.
For this trip, I stayed at a mix of albergues, pensións and boutique guesthouses. These are my top picks based on your budget:
Santiago de Compostela | Hostal Anosa Casa // Atalaia B&B
Malpica | Hostal J.B. // Apartamento Vista al Mar
Niñóns | Casa Vacacional Niñons // Casa da Vasca
Ponteceso | Pensión Teyma
Laxe | Hostal Residencia Bahia // Hotel VIDA Mar
Arou / Camelle | O Refuxio do Náufrago // Os Faros Pisos Turísticos
Camariñas | O Mar de Preciosa // Hotel Puerto Arnela
Muxia | Albergue Arribada // Solpor do Coído
Nemiña / Lires | Hospedium A Casa Da Reina // As Eiras // LiresCa
Finisterre | Hostal Rivas
Galicia is well-known for its seafood and the cuisine on offer along the Lighthouse Way showcases this beautifully.
Though in a country where enjoying food is among its most beloved past times, one of my biggest surprises was just how carefully you do need to consider your daytime meals.
You will almost always find a cafe open for breakfast and dinner, but lunch does require some planning.
On day one, both my plan A and B fell through and I ended up subsisting on a small packet of peanuts and some apples. Hardly ideal for a 25 km day, but lesson well and truly learnt!
In general, I’d also suggest taking the restaurant opening hours listed online with a grain of salt, especially if you’re visiting outside of the peak summer season.
Desayuno / Breakfast |
For breakfast, the earliest cafes or bars will generally open from 8 a.m.
Alongside a coffee, a large piece of toast (tostada) with grated tomato, cured ham and olive oil (tomate, jamón serrano y aceite) or jam (marmelada) will be your typical breakfast along the Camino dos Faros.
Many cafes don’t bother with menus and will just ask which of the toppings you want. In the larger towns, you’ll find more variety like eggs or pancakes.
Almuerzo / Lunch |
As mentioned, finding a bite for lunch can present something of a challenge and preparation is key to avoid spending 10 hours on trail with a grumbling belly.
Some villages are well supplied with excellent bakeries, supermarkets and cafes, however there are many stages where you won’t pass anywhere to eat for the entire day.
There are also some consecutive days without a store or bakery where you’ll need to stock up on supplies for multiple days in advance. And keep in mind that most shops are closed on Sundays.
For the cafes that are along the route, many only open a few days a week with just a 90-minute session for lunch.
The only villages where you could, in theory, dine out would be Seiruga or As Garzas, Corme, Ponte Porto and Praia do Largo, however these are rarely located at an ideal midway point for lunch.
Even if you do plan to dine out, I’d highly recommend carrying enough food to cover a packed lunch and plenty of snacks every day of the hike, just in case.
You’ll find well-stocked supermarkets in Malpica, Ponteceso, Laxe, Camariñas, Ponte Porto, Muxia and Finisterre. Most of these towns also have a bakery where you can stock up on fresh bread, pastries and Galician empanadas.
Compared with the plump, palm-sized Latin version, the Galician variety is a flat pie-like pastry stuffed with seafood, chicken or a vegetarian option and make a delicious treat for lunch. You can buy them whole to share or by the quarter to try different varieties.
Cena / Dinner |
With deep-seated fishing traditions, Galicia is an exceptional place for seafood and you’re virtually guaranteed to be in foodie heaven come dinner time. It’s a definite highlight of hiking in the region.
Octopus or pulpo is particularly beloved, though the scallops and king prawns drizzled with an irresistible combination of butter, garlic and lemon are my personal favourites. Percebes or goose barnacles, which are particularly dangerous to harvest, are also a specialty of the region.
For solo hikers, restaurants may also provide a half serve (media porción) of some seafood dishes on request so you can try a few delicious different plates.
Now, while I do love seafood, I’m also someone that needs to eat an obscene amount of food after a long day of hiking.
In terms of bang for your buck, raxo (pronounced rasho) is a tasty typical dish of grilled pork loin served over fries or roast potato, occasionally with a creamy sauce and roasted peppers. For those with a big appetite, this one guarantees you a large, filling portion.
With the exception of Niñons, you’ll find at least one restaurant open for dinner in every village. Malpica, Laxe, Camariñas, Muxia and Finisterre all have several excellent options.
Many restaurants close for the afternoon siesta and reopen at 8 p.m. for drinks and 8:30 p.m. for dinner.
Your budget will essentially boil down to where you choose to sleep and eat. My solo trip totalled around €550 including accommodation, meals and transport.
For accommodation, a dorm bed in a hikers hostel will be the cheapest option (around €15 to €25) though these are generally only present in towns where the Camino dos Faros intersects with the Camino Finisterre.
A private room in a pensión or guesthouse costs around €40 to €70, while a luxury hotel or large apartment will set you back around €100 or more during peak season.
The best value meals are often found at local bars where a tostada and coffee for breakfast will set you back around €4 to €5, and a generous meal and a drink for lunch or dinner will cost around €10 to €15. For seafood, it’s customary to order multiple plates so expect to pay €30 to €50.
Thankfully, credit cards are accepted in most places along the route, but not everywhere.
Most accommodation will require you to pay in advance when booking, though some guesthouses accept cash only on arrival.
Cards are widely accepted at restaurants, cafes and supermarkets, though smaller bakeries or corner stores often have a minimum spend for card payments or require payment in cash.
I’d recommend bringing enough euros to cover any small incidental purchases, such as bus tickets, taxi rides, bread and pastries, as well as any outstanding accommodation.
Many ATMs in Spain also charge a withdrawal fee of around €5 so it’s worth shopping around to find a free one. The ABANCA branch in the centre of Santiago de Compostela is one option.
Otherwise you’ll find ATMs in Malpica, Corme, Ponteceso, As Grelas, Laxe, Camariñas, Muxia and Fisterra.
Despite receiving very little foot traffic – there were barely a dozen of us hiking each day – I felt completely safe walking solo along the Camino dos Faros and didn’t encounter any issues.
However, given the remote location, it is well worth taking some basic precautions.
One of the biggest risks is that the trail is very isolated and leads across rugged coastline with few other hikers and often patchy reception. Many stages also have limited facilities so you do need to be fairly self-sufficient while on trail.
These are a few of the key safety precautions and considerations I always try to take when hiking as a solo female:
\\ Always check the weather before heading out – heavy rainfall and strong winds are not uncommon in the region and can be brutal along exposed stretches of coast.
\\ Be adequately prepared with proper warm and wet weather gear, enough food and water, a stocked first aid kit, a charged battery pack and, in this case, a good level of physical fitness and mental stamina to last for 8 to 10 hours of hiking.
\\ Share your location and itinerary with a friend or family member.
\\ Communicate with your accommodation so that they’re certain you’re coming and know what time to expect you.
\\ Avoid walking in the dark.
\\ Hiking poles are helpful for managing fatigue on long days but can also be used as a weapon in a pinch. Make sure they’re easy to access on the outside of your pack.
\\ Know that not everyone has good intentions nor deserves your kindness. Trust your gut. If someone is making you uncomfortable, intentionally or otherwise, local or tourist, you are under no obligation to continue being polite or friendly.
\\ Know when to call it. Sometimes hiking trips don’t go according to plan – you might get caught out in poor weather, are feeling fatigued or that niggle in your knee starts to get worse. Opting to take a taxi or bus while you have the opportunity may be the smarter and safer option rather than pushing on.
\\ Always have a way to maintain contact in case something goes wrong. There are some reception black holes along the route, but mostly there is signal.
I recommend an Airalo e-sim and have personally used them on several multi-day hiking trips across Europe. Check plans and coverage here.
Muiños and hórreos are both icons of the Lighthouse Way and persist as important and unique architectural elements of the Galician countryside.
Historic muíños or watermills appear along several stages of the route though are most prevalent amongst the verdant forests that engulf the Ruta do Rego dos Muíños which clings to the babbling stream of the same name between Ponteceso and Laxe.
This enchanting forest trail once held great economic significance, passing by 24 mills that used the force of the river and its cascades to grind corn and wheat into flour.
These timeworn stone buildings are a common sight along the hike, especially around any kind of reliable watercourse, though most now lie abandoned and draped in greenery.
Hórreos on the other hand may appear to be from another time, yet they remain a crucial component of rural life and are still used today.
My first introduction to these curious structures was in Niñons where the rooftop crosses led me to wrongly assume that they were some kind of tomb or shrine.
However, these narrow, elevated huts, with horizontal slits in the walls to provide ventilation, are actually a type of granary common in Galicia and Asturias which are raised out of reach of rodents and heavy rainfall.
When passing through virtually any small rural village along the Camino dos Faros, you’ll see a variety of hórreos speckled amongst the properties, mostly made of bare stone or concrete, though some are painted in bright colours.
Unlike other parts of Spain which swelter through summer heatwaves that soar above 40°C, Galicia maintains a much milder and wetter climate year round.
At the height of summer, daytime temperatures generally nudge towards 30°C but nights often stay cool. In spring and autumn, the climate is comfortable around 20°C but does get rather cold overnight.
Rainfall is relatively frequent across much of the year and is a big reason why Galicia is so wonderfully green.
July and August are by far the driest months with just 3 to 4 days of rain on average, while October through April receive a considerable amount of precipitation.
For most of my hike in September I was welcomed with sunny blue skies that drifted into overcast or drizzly afternoons, but one day was a complete washout of torrential rain, severe winds and thick fog which kept me inside.
Scuttling along cliff edges and open fields for 10 hours in the wet hardly sounded like much fun.
Definitely come prepared for wet weather and keep an eye on the forecast. I recommend using the free WeatherRadar App which provides a reasonably accurate storm radar.
As with all long-distance hiking trails, packing light is one of the best things you can do.
Though there are no serious ascents, the terrain is consistently hilly and the stages are long, so the lighter your pack, the happier you’ll be on trail.
I carried a 35L backpack which fit everything perfectly and left just enough room to squeeze in my lunch supplies and snacks.
Along with your hiking clothes, be sure to bring a warm layer and adequate wet weather gear for cool evenings and inevitable rain. For the warmer days, don’t forget a swimsuit for the many beautiful beaches.
Most traditional camino routes have an efficient and well-established luggage transport service where the the bulk of your gear can be ferried between guesthouses, leaving you with just a light day pack.
As the Camino dos Faros is not heavily trafficked, this isn’t a viable option for most of the route, except where the trail intersects with the Camino Finisterre at Muxia, Lires and Finisterre.
Reservations for luggage transport must be made in advance and generally cost around €5 to €10 per day. Jacotrans and Pilbeo are two transfer options that come recommended.
In smaller villages with regular taxi services, you may be able to discuss transfer options with your guesthouse and pay the taxi fee, but better is to just pack light and keep your gear with you.
Clothing aside, don’t forget to pack these other essentials:
Guidebook | Cicerone – Walking the Camino dos Faros
Hiking Poles | Mountain Designs Trekking Poles (for Aussies), or Black Diamond Trail Trekking Poles
Power Bank | Anker Portable Charger
Solid Hiking Boots | I use the SCARPA Hiking Boots or LOWA Renegade Boots
First Aid Kit | An essential in every hiker’s pack – don’t forget to bring a fully stocked first aid kit with a minimum of bandages, pain killers, plenty of plasters, blister patches, antiseptic cream, tweezers and oral rehydration salts.
Microfibre Towel | Essential for beach swims and use at some of the guesthouses. Aim for full size, lightweight and quick dry. See options here.
Sun Protection | Hiking west, you’ll be facing into the sun for much of the hike. Broad spectrum, SPF 50+ sunscreen with a long resistance period is best, along with a hat, sunglasses and long-sleeved shirt.
I use Neutrogena Beach Defence (SPF 50 / 4 hours for body) and Neutrogena Ultra Sheer (SPF 50 / 4 hours for face). Australia has very strict sunscreen regulations so the same formulas aren’t available internationally, but the products linked are similar.
The Camino dos Faros is designed to hike from east to west – Malpica to Finisterre.
The arrows and signage are most obvious this way and virtually all other hikers you’ll meet will travel in this direction allowing you some degree of camaraderie on trail.
Perching on the cliffs of Cape Finisterre to watch the sunset after eight fantastic days on trail is a rite of passage for every hiker that completes the Camino dos Faros or Camino Finisterre and is an unbeatable way to end the adventure.
Spectacular location aside, there’s also a palpable air of quiet celebration while watching the sun sink over the ocean and it’s just good vibes all around which makes a perfect bookend to the hike.
There is no official tally of exactly how many lighthouses are located along the trail – I’ve seen estimates ranging from seven to fourteen.
By my calculation there are eleven full-sized lighthouses which can be seen directly from the route.
From east to west, these include: Faro Islas Sisarga, Faro de Punta Nariga, Faro Roncudo, Faro de Laxe, Faro Vilán, Faro da Villueira, Faro do Costelo (located inland), Faro de Punta do Lago, Faro de Muxía, Faro Touriñán and Faro de Fisterra.
There is at least one lighthouse located along every stage except for Stage 3 between Ponteceso and Laxe which sticks mostly inland.
Stage 5 between Camelle / Arou and Camariñas has the most lighthouses with three along the route – the majestic Faro Vilán which was my favourite of the trip, and Faro da Villueira and Faro do Costelo which are both located near the mouth of the Ria de Camariñas estuary.
While the Balearic and Canary Islands are often lauded as having Spain’s best beaches, they’ve certainly got some stiff competition in Galicia.
Think picture-perfect crescent bays where powdery white shores meet calm turquoise seas, or vast sandy stretches framed in rugged cliffs and lapped by curling cobalt waves.
The beautiful beaches are without a doubt one of the highlights of the Camino dos Faros.
Usually hovering between 13 and 18°C, the Atlantic Ocean is known for its year round icy water. But after a sweaty few hours walking beneath the blazing sun, what could be better than a refreshing swim.
Almost every stage of the Lighthouse Way has at least one beach, though some have several, so be sure to pack your swimmers and carve out some extra time for a well-earned dip along the way.
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