20 January 2025.
Searching for an easier peak trail in Durmitor National Park? Crvena Greda is just the ticket and this guide covers everything you need to know for the hike.
As far as peak bagging goes, Durmitor National Park is an absolute delight.
There’s no shortage of dazzling limestone giants to choose from, but it’s fair to say that most require a demanding full day of hiking, often involving technical terrain, incredibly steep ascents and the occasional exposed cabled ridge.
For those seeking an easier and slightly less daring option that doesn’t compromise on spectacular views, Crvena Greda is your best bet.
Rising above a sea of spiky pine forests, the sheer, ochre-stained cliffs of Crvena Greda, or Red Rock in English, are unmistakable.
When heading directly to the summit, the trail is just under 4 km with an optional detour to the lovely Jablan Lake, making it significantly shorter and less demanding than most other Durmitor peak trails.
For this reason, Crvena Greda is a favourite among mixed tour groups where hiking is perhaps not their main focus, however, that’s not to suggest that it’s just a walk in the park. It’s still a proper hiking trail and a good level of physical fitness is required.
Read on for everything you need to know when planning your hike to Crvena Greda and Jablan Lake.
Distance | 8.8 km
Duration | 4 hours
Elevation Gain | 452 m
Difficulty | Moderate
Trailhead | Bosača
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Officially, this trail follows the same route out and back, sticking to a dirt road for most of the way between the trailhead and Jablan Lake. However, by using some of the smaller side trails, you can create a sightly longer and more scenic circular option which is the route outlined below.
For those not travelling by car, it’s also possible to begin the hike from the Black Lake which is 8.5 km one way.
Alternatively, you can take a taxi to the trailhead in Bosača, hike to Crvena Greda and return to the Black Lake on foot, passing by the three glacial lakes – Jablan, Zeminje and Barno – to create a 15 km route.
Bosača is a small community located just 7 km or a 20-minute drive from the centre of Žabljak which acts as the gateway to Durmitor National Park.
From Podgorica, it’s a 2.5 hour drive to Žabljak along mostly new and often winding mountain roads.
As you move into the hills surrounding Žabljak, the narrower and more damaged the road becomes, with frequent potholes and gravel patches. Many cars drive in the middle to manoeuvre around the worst bits so take care when travelling around the hairpin bends.
Around the trailhead, there is a dirt parking bay and wide gravel shoulder on either side of the road.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Podgorica is the best place to pick up your rental car with numerous options available from the airport and downtown area.
I recommend using Discover Cars who offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
There is no public transport within Žabljak or Durmitor National Park but you’ll find a number of taxis in town, often located around the bus station, which can transport you short distances within the local region, including to the Black Lake and Bosača.
To reach the area, there are several buses a day from Podgorica to Žabljak. The trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs €10 to €12. See timetables here.
Access to Durmitor National Park attracts a €5 entry fee per person per day, or you can purchase an annual pass for €13.50 which covers all national parks in Montenegro for a calendar year.
If you plan to spend more than two days in Durmitor, it’s well worth getting the annual pass which can be purchased on arrival, or online in advance here.
Bosača itself does not lie within the national park (the border falls near Jablan Lake) and so there is no control point at this trailhead. If you begin from the Black Lake, you’ll be flagged down to pay the entry fee at the park office.
That said, when visiting outside of the peak summer season, I often found the entry points to be unmanned, particularly when beginning your hike early in the morning, though it’s not uncommon for rangers to patrol the most popular trails to check visitor passes.
Žabljak and the gorgeous surrounding countryside makes an ideal base for exploring the various sections of Durmitor National Park. You’ll find a variety of accommodation available to suit any budget, from cosy guesthouses to remote mountain cabins.
Hostel Hikers Den | For budget travellers, look no further than this homely hostel located right in the heart of town which offers both dormitory and private rooms, a communal kitchen and knowledgeable owners. It also consistently takes home the prize for best hostel in Montenegro. Check rates and availability here.
Srna Chalet | A lovely, wallet-friendly guesthouse located just a short walk from Žabljak’s main square, Srna Chalet offers a range of private rooms with a shared bathroom in a large wooden house. The host is super helpful and knowledgeable on the region and there’s also a guest kitchen onsite. Check rates and availability here.
Spruce Hill Village | With a stunning mountain setting just 10 minutes from Žabljak, Spruce Hill Village boasts a collection of charming self-contained chalets that are perfect for those eager to escape to the countryside. Guests love the warm hospitality and traditional breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Casa di Pino Eco Lodge | For a touch of luxury, Casa di Pino is an excellent option boasting modern, comfortable rooms, friendly staff, a great breakfast and sauna to melt away those tired muscles. Located within walking distance from town. Check rates and availability here.
Setting off from the parking area, a web of trails fan out in all directions.
There’s an obvious dirt road that cuts across the green pastures and is the most direct route, however a smaller, more scenic trail veering off to the left can be used to create a circular route to Jablan Jezero.
This is the trail I took and would recommend so that you cover new ground on the way there and back.
Heading to the left across the grassy plateau, the trail hugs the edge of the hilltop with beautiful views overlooking the vast Jezerska Površ, the green plateau that surrounds Žabljak and sprawls beneath Durmitor’s dramatic limestone massif towards the Tara Canyon.
A-frame cottages pepper verdant meadows, the contorted forms of Savin Kuk and Medjed dominate the sky, and the teal expanse of the Black Lake sparkles amidst an ocean of pine trees.
Onwards, the trail climbs gradually for the next kilometre, skirting around the forest and weaving over lush rolling hills speckled with spring wildflowers.
Emerging over a small rise, the gleaming cliffs that border Crvena Greda spring into view, towering above the treetops.
A short way further ahead, you’ll arrive at a four way junction where the dirt road intersects with the path. For the most direct route to the lake, continue straight on and then turn left and you’ll arrive at Jablan Jezero in just 600 metres.
Keen to explore, I turned left here in search of another viewpoint which I could see marked on my map.
Initially the trail was clear and easy to follow, but as I approached the lookout, the path mostly disappeared and I was guided only by the gaps between the trees.
After squeezing through a small bush though, the path reappeared and passed through a birch grove to arrive at a grassy clearing.
Perched beneath the imposing limestone facade of Crvena Greda and overlooking the forested valley that climbs into distant peaks, I’d say this short detour is worth it, despite being a bit of a bush bash.
Picking back up on the main trail, you’ll soon exit the forest and cross a verdant meadow to reach the southern tip of Jablan Jezero in just a few hundred metres.
Surrounded by stark white cliffs, the eye-shaped lake holds a beautiful location, though even in early June, it was heavily receded and beginning to dry up, its exposed pebbled bed carpeted in tiny yellow blooms.
The main trail appears again half way up the lake and you’ll see the majority of hikers who have taken the dirt road arriving from here.
Follow the path through the forest to reach the next intersection where the trail to Crvena Greda begins. From here, the hike gets more serious, beginning a consistent ascent towards the clifftop.
Take the left fork and exit the forest, scuttling along a narrow trail beneath the rock face and darting up a sharp switchback to bring you above the cliff line and onto the mountain plateau.
Bending around the top of the basin, the trail climbs quickly, skirting along the edge of the escarpment for the next 1.8 km, rewarding hikers with gorgeous views of Jablan Lake and the surrounding peaks, with the sheer face of Crvena Greda looming ahead.
The route is clear but erratic, pushing through stunted, scraggy bushes, climbing rocky channels in steep, short bursts, and weaving constantly back and forth over the plateau.
For the final 500m, the path flattens out and traces the edge of the cliffs with a stunning outlook. Mostly there’s a wide track which feels secure, but if you’re nervous around heights this last stretch may be slightly unsettling.
Marking the end of the hike, you’ll emerge onto an open rock platform which takes in the entire valley.
From the bald spire of Bobotov Kuk towering in the distance, to the sea of pine forests that wrap around the turquoise Black Lake, to the snaking ridge lines that tumble into rolling hills and sprawl as far as the eye can see.
It’s a fantastic place for a break and to take in the boundless mountains that unfold before you.
Now, while most people will finish up their hike here, this is not actually the summit of Crvena Greda which lies 250 metres further along the cliff line.
To reach the proper summit, you’ll need to navigate down a sketchy ledge, scuttle across some rocks, and squeeze through a patch of spiky low slung trees that are somewhat overgrown.
Honestly though, I don’t think this last bit is worth it and the views from the peak are simply not as good as those you’ll find on the rock platform.
The rock platform also connects with the main trail for Planinica via an intersecting path that descends sharply and wraps around the valley.
I haven’t hiked this deviation myself, but it would certainly make a challenging and beautiful addition to the already long Planinica hike.
For the return journey, follow the same path to the intersection where the trail forks to Jablan Lake and continue straight until you reach the dirt road. Follow this to the left, descending gradually towards the car park.
The way back is easy and straightforward, weaving in and out of the forest and across vibrant meadows blanketed in yellow and purple flowers.
Don’t forget to glance back occasionally for a final glimpse of Crvena Greda standing proudly above the treetops.
TOP TIP | If you’re looking for another short trail to complete your day, Curevac is a fantastic option. This is the quintessential viewpoint of the Tara Canyon and one of the best vantage points around that doesn’t require you to hike up another peak.
From Bosača, it’s a 20-minute drive along a narrow road through Nadgora to the Curevac parking area located here.
The rocky trail is just 1 km each way and scurries along the edge of the escarpment to the cliff top which stares down the Tara Canyon in both directions.
If you’ve read some of my other posts on Durmitor National Park, you’ll know that a Saharan dust storm plagued much of my visit and it was during the hike to Crvena Greda that it first began to steal across Montenegro.
By the time I arrived at Curevac, the thick haze was unmistakable, but ordinarily you’ll be met with clear views across the stunning Tara Canyon.
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