Published 10 August 2016. UPDATED 20 April 2025
Tucked away in the rugged mountains of central Montenegro, Mrtvica Canyon is one of the country’s best kept secrets, where soaring white cliffs wrapped in a belt of forest plunge into the impossibly turquoise ribbon of the Mrtvica River.
Extending for 15 km between Velje Duboko and Međuriječje, the canyon conceals a number of impressive points of interests, allowing visitors to walk as near or far as they please.
I first visited this region back in 2016 after seeing photographs of a mythical portal beside the water and an old Yugoslav military trail hewn into the cliff face that captured my curiosity and sent me down a rabbit hole of investigation.
The place wasn’t mentioned in my guidebook and the information office insisted that I’d need a guide.
After heading out to see for myself, I was convinced this little-visited gorge was one of the most beautiful places in Montenegro and is entirely possible to visit independently.
Since then, violent storms and heavy flooding have washed away critical bridges that once spanned across the canyon, a newly built highway has diverted traffic and, importantly the bus, from passing close by, and the once circular hiking route has now been diverted along a single out and back trail.
Finding myself back in Montenegro some 9 years later and after receiving plenty of updates from helpful readers over the years, I decided it was high time for a return visit to experience the trail all over again for myself.
Mrtvica Canyon is still as beautiful as ever and feels like stepping into another world where you’ll be guided between the enchanting Gate of Wishes surrounded by mossy forests and a mesmerising blue pool, and the historic mountain road, known as Danilov Put, which has been blown from the chiselled cliffs where staggering peaks soar overhead.
That said, much of the new trail falls along dirt road which perhaps makes it slightly less interesting and adventurous than its earlier iteration.
For any nature lovers, Mrtvica Canyon should be on every Montenegro itinerary and makes a spectacular place to break up the journey as you make your way across the country. This updated guide covers everything you need to know for the Mrtvica Canyon hike.
Spanning for around 15 km between Međuriječje and Velje Duboko, it is rare for visitors to hike the entirety of Mrtvica Canyon.
Instead, most walk only as far as the Gate of Wishes, while the more intrepid may continue on to Danilov Put before turning back from there.
For those interested in tackling a multi-day hike, it’s possible to continue beyond Velje Duboko to Kapetanovo Lake and the Lukavica Plateau which lies 20 km from Međuriječje, though this is most often hiked in the opposite direction to avoid the 2,400 m of elevation gain.
The trail for Mrtvica Canyon begins from the large parking area located here which sits at the confluence of the Mrtvica and Morača Rivers.
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Mrtvica Canyon – Gate of Wishes
Distance | 8.5 km
Duration | 3 hours
Elevation Gain | 244 m
Difficulty | Easy
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Mrtvica Canyon – Danilov Put
Distance | 15 km
Duration | 6 hours
Elevation Gain | 1,065 m
Difficulty | Moderate
The Mrtvica Canyon hike begins from Međuriječje which lies along the E80 / E65 directly north of Podgorica or southwest of Kolašin and can be reached in around 45 minutes from either.
For those travelling cross country between Durmitor National Park and Prokletije National Park, Mrtvica Canyon sits roughly half way or 2 hours between the two and can be used as a stopping point.
Be sure to take the stunning Morača Canyon route instead of the road through Tara Canyon and stick along the E80 / E65 for around 15 minutes from the R18 intersection.
Once you arrive, there are several options for parking depending on where you feel comfortable taking your car.
Directly on the main the road, there is a restaurant with a small bay for paid parking (located here), or you’ll find a free parking area around 600 m further north (located here).
Alternatively, you’ll find additional free parking on either side of the river.
Next to the restaurant, there is a very steep and narrow road that leads to a somewhat rickety bridge and a large grassy field for parking directly at the trailhead on the right side of the river (located here). Most of the road is paved but the last section is unsealed and very rough. Personally, I didn’t feel comfortable taking my rental down here but there were many others who did.
Another option is to stick on the left side of the river, turning off the E65 here and continuing for a further 2 km along the rough paved road to find a park. A small trail feeding off to the right will bring you down to the river where you’ll need to cross over to reach the trailhead. Despite being lots of online suggestions for this spot, the road is narrow and parking is limited.
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Unfortunately, since the completion of Montenegro’s new A1 highway, the buses that travel frequently between Podgorica and Kolašin no longer take the road via Međuriječje and as such it’s not possible to reach Mrtvica Canyon via public transport.
If you’re not travelling by car, you may be able to arrange a taxi from either Podgorica or Kolašin though I expect this would be rather pricey for a return journey.
On my very first visit, I ended up hitchhiking back to Kolašin instead of waiting 90 minutes for the next bus which could also be a possibility if you’re comfortable with the risks it presents. Given most traffic will take the highway, I suspect travelling to Mrtvica Canyon with your thumb out may pose more of a challenge, but it could potentially be a viable option to get back.
Mrtvica Canyon is set around half way between Kolašin and Podgorica and either town would make a suitable jumping off point. Unless you’re navigating around an early flight or bus, Kolašin will always be my preference.
There are also several camping areas located around the entrance to Mrtvica Canyon that cater to vans and tents.
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When I first visited Mrtvica Canyon, it was possible to follow a circular route which began along the left side of the river and crossed over just before the Gate of Wishes via a spectacular wooden bridge that spanned high above the water, before returning back to Medjurecje along the right bank.
These days, the bridge is long gone meaning you need to stick on the right side of the river for the entire way. Initially, the route follows a small forested path, but a long stretch in the middle sticks along an unshaded dirt road.
The way isn’t signposted but is reasonably well-marked with the bullseye emblem at regular intervals. It’s also visible on most hiking apps like maps.me and AllTrails.
From the riverside parking area, return back to the dirt road and walk a few metres to the left to find the starting point of the trail.
At the far end of the parking area, you’ll also see a grassy road heading into the trees which connects with the trail further up, but personally I found this rather overgrown so getting on the correct path from the beginning is best.
After just 1 km that brings you past some gorgeous swimming areas, you’ll arrive at the arched stone bridge of Danilov Most.
Behind the bridge, a narrow trail climbs steeply into the forest, passing over a pretty stream, and in 400 m you’ll emerge onto the dirt road.
Turning left, follow the road for the next 1.7 km as it weaves around the bends of the canyon. You’ll pass a property on the left, veer downhill over a small river and swing around a corner and up ahead there should be a tiny scrambly trail peeling off the road to the right.
At this intersection, I encountered two large, very aggressive dogs who were chained up but still very unsettling. Rather than go up the trail here, a lady at the property waved me through the farm and I managed to rejoin the path further up instead.
After the brutal heat of the road, the forest here is beautiful and lush, providing some much needed respite from the blazing Balkan sun.
A further 400 m along, you’ll see a small track marked by a cairn leading to the left. This was the old route that connected to the bridge and is now a popular swimming area, particularly for those arriving from the opposite side of the river.
Continue straight ahead and in 850 m you’ll reach the lefthand turn off for the Gate of Wishes which is like something out of a fairytale.
Set amidst a halo of twisted trees draped in moss, the triangular arch forms a perfect frame to the dazzling turquoise pool that lies below.
Climb down the rocks to sit beneath the gate and don’t miss an invigorating swim in the bone-chilling, ankle-biting water. The air temperature is about 10°C cooler down there and, coupled with the icy river, it’s the perfect antidote after a hot hike.
To push on to Danilov Put, return to the main path and continue to the left.
Here the trail begins to climb more steeply and emerges from the trees, entering the most dramatic section of the Mrtvica Canyon where vertiginous cliffs tower overhead.
After 2 km, you’ll reach the wildly impressive historic military road hewn into the sheer walls of the canyon where you’ll be rewarding with spectacular views.
Wrapping around the slopes of Zdinja Peak, the trail pitches up sharply and this makes an ideal place to turn back around the 7.5 km mark.
If you’re still feeling energetic, it’s a further 4.8 km and 400+ m of elevation gain to Donje Velje Duboko and the end of the Mrtvica Canyon. Keep in mind that much of this section is drenched in sunlight and can get incredibly hot so be sure you’re well equipped with enough water and food for the hike.
Otherwise, return back the same way you came to Medjurecje, taking the time to enjoy another delightfully cold swim along the way.
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Is this hike visible in the ” trail ” app? How can you find it before you start?
Do you need a subscription for it?
Really want to do this one, but I’m afraid I’ll get lost without the app so that’s why I am asking. The scenery really looks amazing!!!
Hey Maikel,
Yes we used the app to find the route, however once you’re on the path it is actually quite clear where you need to go. There was only the one turn off which was a little overgrown that we nearly missed.
It looks like you do need to pay to access the Trails App now but the route is also available on Maps.Me which is free to use.
It’s a really beautiful trail and definitely worth doing!
Dear Freya and Chris,
First of all, thank you so much for the decent discription of this very beautyfull but in fact totally unknown sight of Montenegro.
Your Guide is very detailled, easy to follow, and leads to the most astonishing sights of the canyon.
We did the trail just this month, and we wanted to give a short feedback to point out how awesome it was
(!) and to suggest a thing or another.
For instance: there is one path, leading to a stone bridge over the river (google maps calls it ‘Danilov Most’),
that can take you to the other site (the site on which the two of you returned to Medjurecje) quite shortly after
you get to the road that takes you into the canyon. Which means you are able to decide whether you want to do the
trail clockwise or counterclock wise, right in the beginning of your hike.
First, we thought this must be the ‘seriously inconspicuous and overgrown path’ that you mentioned, but its not.
Though, it has no sign or anything but its quite easy to find and leads also downhill through the wood on your
right hand site. It starts about 750 m after the point where you get to the road in the beginning.
Fun fact: we got that information from an an eldery man, apparently the owner of that small camping site.
He seems to be a little mischievous because he put the word ‘here’ next to some red arrows pointing away
from the road. When we followed these arrows we got to his house and he would come out and invite you in
his broken german or english to sit and drink with him:) We had some trouble convincing him that we are
in a hurry, at first, but he is was also very friendly and harmless, of course.
To sum it up: Thanks for the exploring and recording:) We had a great time going on your trail, although
we missed the military path.
Sincerely
Kim&Paul
Wow! Thanks so much for your feedback Kim and Paul, and so glad to hear you had such a great time on the hike. It was one of our favourite experiences in Montenegro!
That fellow does sound rather sneaky, though alongside the river probably isn’t a bad spot for a drink!
We have found a better App now with all the trails and roads (including the ones you mention) so we will update the post with that info now!
Realy great hike – thank You for this guide! We, a family of seven people from Sweden, took the trail in june 2018. Som of us was experienced and some unexcperienced, age from 10 to 50 years. Total distance for us was almost 20 km. I think it was an easy walk, extreamly beautiful and the bath was very cold. The path is realy easy to follow (I am used too hike in the north of Sweden) Most difficult part was to get back to Kolasin. We waited for the bus for an hour and managed to wave it in to the roadside and pick us up (no ordinary bus stop).
Thanks Johan! Getting back can definitely be a bit of a challenge as the buses are not all that frequent in the afternoon. Glad you enjoyed the hike as much as we did!
It was such a spectacular hike! We have done it just a few days ago, following your tips and I wanted to get back and say “thank you”. We really enjoyed the gate and forest surrounding it. At some point, it felt we were in a fairytale or something 🙂
That’s so wonderful to hear you had such a great time. The place definitely has that fairytale feel to it 🙂
Hello, do you have a route that you walk on the map ;)?
Hey Martyna, Have you taken a look on Maps.Me? The trail is clearly outlined here and you’ll just need to keep an eye out for the sign to the Gate of Wishes on the trail.
Have you seen any snakes there?
Yes, we saw one snake during the hike.
Thank you for your insightful post. We are headed to Montenegro in two weeks, and have just added this hike to our list based on your recommendation. Do you have any suggestions on what kind of footwear to bring? We have hiking boots but if trail runners (kind of a blend between a running shoe and a hiking shoe) are good enough we would much rather pack those instead.
I did the trail in hiking boots because I was trying to wear them in, but I think a solid pair of running shoes would have been fine too. There’s a few rocky patches but nothing too strenuous for your ankles. Have a great hike!
Thank you so much for bringing my attention to this hidden gem of Montenegro (I found it looking for hiking trails in the Moraca Canyon). It’s really a shame it is not even mentioned in popular travel/hiking guides to Montenegro. We followed the marked trail as you described and indeed, still at one point we would have missed it without a GPS (although I have been on much worse marked trails in Montenegro).
I can’t believe it’s still not listed in the guide books as I visited this area 4 years ago now! Glad you had a great hike though 🙂
I will be visiting Montenegro in October,I am glad I found your post, bookmarked it
Thank you so much for all the info, it was really helpful!
An important update for everyone without a car: as of July 2022 it is no longer possible to get here by bus. The bus no longer passes Međuriječje, because the bus route now follows the newly opened A1 highway between Kolašin and Podgorica. You can either take a taxi from Kolašin for €25 one-way, or go hitchhiking (I had to wait for about 10 minutes to get a ride).
Can beginners do this hike in the beginning of December? How strenous is this? Is there a lot of elevation and rock climbing/canyoning involved?
Hi Kay, December is a tricky time for hiking in Montenegro as many of the mountainous regions have already received snow and there is more expected this weekend. I’d suggest keeping an eye on the forecast, but I can’t guarantee what the conditions will be like. Otherwise, this is a beginner friendly walk if you only go as far as the Gate of Wishes where the path is mainly along dirt road and a clear forest trail with just 250 m of elevation gain.
If you continue further, the path becomes steeper and more rocky with around 800 m of elevation gain. There is a very short rocky bit that may require some scrambling, but there is no climbing/canyoning involved – just be sure to stick to the eastern bank of the river the whole way from the carpark (as suggested in the updates) to avoid having to cross over. Have a wonderful trip!
hi, do you know if the bridge has been repaired by now?
Hi Daniel, I don’t believe there are any plans to repair the old wooden bridge. The stone Danilov Most is still intact near the mouth of the canyon, otherwise you’ll need to stick along the right side of the river for the entire route.