Hajla Peak: Hiking Kosovo’s Spectacular Border Ridge

16 April 2025.

Planning your hike up Kosovo’s Hajla Peak? This guide has everything you need to know.

Marking the dramatic northwestern border between Kosovo and Montenegro, Hajla Peak, pronounced ‘high-la’, makes a fantastic and surprisingly easy day hike.

In fact, at a good pace it’s possible to reach the 2,403 m summit in less than 3 hours where you’ll be rewarded with a riot of summer wildflowers and spectacular views overlooking the boundless Accursed Mountains of Montenegro, Kosovo and Albania.

For keen hikers exploring the Rugova Valley and wider Bjeshkët e Nemuna National Park, it’s a must-visit with two possible starting points located at either Rekë e Allagës or Pepaj.

Alternatively, Haila Peak makes an excellent detour for those hiking the Peaks of the Balkans which is how I came to be in the area.

This guide covers everything you need to know for your Hajla Peak hike.

There are two main trailheads for Hajla Peak which originate in Rekë e Allagës and Pepaj (also called Pepici).

Both trails are a similar length and intersect at Hajla Pass (Qafa e Hajles), a key junction as the base of the peak, before following the same circular route across the summit.

Either trail can be followed as a straightforward out and back hike with a lollipop loop around the peak. Pepaj also has an alternative return option where visitors can create a figure-eight circular route rather than return via the same trail.

For those hiking the Peaks of the Balkans, Hajla Peak is a popular detour on the stage between Rekë e Allagës and Drelaj (also spelled Drelë) or Kuqishtë and can be completed as a point-to-point hike.

Travel By Car

Both Rekë e Allagës and Pepaj can be reached in about 45 minutes by car from Peja.

Follow the M9 through the Rugova Valley before turning right over the bridge and onto an unnamed road about 1.5 km past Hotel Rugova Camp. After a further 1.5 km, the road forks veering right to Rekë e Allagës and left to Pepaj. The road to both villages is newly paved.

From Pristina, the journey is around 2.5 hours and you can stick on the M9 the entire way to Peja and into the Rugova Valley.

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Travel By Public Transport

At least two daily buses run through the Rugova Valley between Peja and Kuqishtë, however you’ll need to walk several extra kilometres to reach the starting point for the hike.

From the M9, it’s 4.5 km to the trailhead in Rekë e Allagës or 5.5 km to the trailhead in Pepaj via Drelaj. Since there is more accommodation available here than in Pepaj and it’s located just 2 km from the road, some visitors prefer to use this as their jumping off point instead.

See bus timetables here.

I would also recommend checking the schedule with your guesthouse as services can change at short notice, especially outside of peak season.

Arrive On Foot

Many visitors to Hajla Peak, including myself, arrive on foot as part of the Peaks of the Balkans.

Despite not falling along the official hiking route, this stunning 6 km detour between Rekë e Allagës and Pepaj is one of the highlights of the Kosovo section of the trek and is something I’d highly recommend for any keen hikers.

With limited accommodation in Pepaj itself, you’ll need to continue on to Drelaj or Kuqishtë to complete the stage.

For those hiking Hajla Peak along the PoB, it makes sense to stay at Rekë e Allagës and Drelaj at the start and end of your hike, though officially this stage ends in the Kuqishtë / Leqinat area.

I saw no sign of any accommodation in Pepaj, despite one being marked on Google Maps, but nearby Drelaj has a couple of comfortable options available.

Anyone visiting the area on a localised trip will likely need to overnight in Peja at the start or end of their visit where there’s access to a variety of accommodation, ample restaurants and transport connections.

Rekë e Allagës Accommodation

Ariu Guesthouse   |   Situated directly at the trailhead, Ariu is an ideal choice for Hajla Peak. Set in a large double story house with several simple but comfortable rooms and a shared bathroom on each floor, the host family are warm and welcoming (speaking German and limited English), meals are excellent, and there’s an outdoor seating area to relax in the afternoon. Contact via WhatsApp for reservations.

Pushimorja Hajla   |   Located further up the hillside, Hajla Guesthouse is another lovely option offering private villas and apartments that cater to varying group sizes. Operated by a local family for more than a decade, traditional home-cooked meals can also be provided and are a favourite among guests.

Drelaj / Kuqishtë Accommodation

Shqiponja Guesthouse   |   Set in a beautifully lush garden fringed in fruit trees in Drelaj, Shqiponja is the perfect mountain sanctuary after a long day of hiking. Rooms are bright and spacious with a shared bathroom and, once again, the food here is excellent. The host can also assist with transport in the local area for a fee if needed.

Bujtina Kaçaku   |   Another top-rated option in Drelaj, Kaçaku sits right beside the road as you enter town. Though I didn’t stay here myself, it looks like a beautiful spot with a spacious balcony to enjoy the mountain vistas.

Guri I Kuq Hotel-Villa   |   Before diverting to Shqiponja to make use of their transfer service, Guri I Kuq was where we had originally intended to stay where you’ll find bright, wooden rooms perched along the hillside at Leqinat above Kuqishtë offering wonderful mountain views. Check rates and availability here.

Peja Accommodation

Sky Hostel   |   For those on a budget, Sky Hostel is a popular backpacker haunt in the heart of town offering both shared and private rooms with a roof top terrace. The hosts are super helpful and a wealth of information on exploring the local area. Check rates and availability here.

Hotel Kulla e Zenel Beut   |   The best rated option in town, this historic property has been lovingly restored into a modern and beautiful hotel with traditional details throughout. Guests love the spacious rooms, central location, excellent breakfast and onsite restaurant. Check rates and availability here.

Chalet Kujta   |   For those that are keen to retain their creature comforts but still be immersed in nature, Chalet Kujta is a another top-rated option, located amongst the lush forests that surround the Rugova Valley about half way between Peja and the Hajla Peak trailhead. Here you’ll find spacious and bright private chalets with a balcony and an onsite restaurant. Check rates and availability here.

Setting off from Rekë e Allagës, the first section of the hike climbs steadily, covering 700 m of elevation in just 4 km as you make your way towards Gjonit Pass and onwards to the base of Hajla Peak.

Follow the road directly behind Ariu Guesthouse and join the narrow trail which cuts through grasslands and scraggly bracket with glimpses of Hajla looming ahead.

After about half an hour, the trail returns to the dirt road flanked by tall pine forest and continues toward a grassy plateau.

Skirting around the meadows, a clear rocky outcrop on the right offers fantastic views across the forested Rugova Valley and the remarkable chiselled shelf of Guri i Kuq.

During summer, this area is flush with wildflowers and blueberry bushes and makes a decent spot for a short break before pushing on past the Albanian flag pole to the shelter that marks Gjonit Pass, a key point where the trail intersects with the mountain road.

Cross over the road and continue up the grassy slope along a narrow path between the trees, some of which are amusingly labelled with Sasquatch warnings.

In just 1 km, you’ll arrive amongst the vivid green pastures that sprawl beneath the steep southern face of the peak where a yellow hiking sign marks the junction of Hajla Pass at 1,955 m.

From Rekë e Allagës, it takes around 1.5 to 2 hours to reach this point.

Travelling in an anti-clockwise direction around the forested hill which rises above Pepaj, the ascent is far more gentle than the route from Rekë e Allagës, covering just 250 m of elevation over the 2.7 km that leads to Gjonit Pass.

Departing from the four way intersection that sits above the village, the road climbs steeply into a sharp bend and enters the forest, transforming into a dirt road which will guide you the entire way to Gjonit Pass.

Much of the route is shrouded in pine forest though keep an eye out for glimpses of the Guri i Kuq massif through the trees. You’ll also pass several freshwater springs spouting deliciously cold water which are perfect to refill your water bottle.

As above, turn left up the grassy slope at Gjonit Pass to reach Hajla Pass in around half an hour.

For the clockwise route or to complete the circular return journey, the correct trail heads left at the Pepaj intersection rather than straight up the hill.

Follow the road for 1.5 km before turning right and climbing through the forest for a further 1.6 km to the Hajla Mountain Hut.

Just 400 m ahead at the edge of the tree line you’ll see the sign for Hajla Pass standing amidst the meadows.

While I haven’t done this route myself, it’s clearly marked on both Google Maps and Maps.Me and I met other hikers who descended via this route and had no issues with navigation.

From Hajla Pass, the peak is best climbed in an anti-clockwise direction, following a spectacular 4 km loop that scuttles along the summit ridge, before cutting back across the southern flank to return to this same junction.

Beyond the signpost is a water trough where the trail for Hajla veers right to begin the circuit, climbing steadily up a grassy, mostly clear path, until you reach the far cliff line which overlooks the Rugova Valley and vast tract of forest that carpets the surrounding countryside.

Here, the route pitches steeply upwards, weaving through an abundance of calf-deep shrubbery to bring you onto the craggy ridgeline in just 600 m.

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TOP TIP   |   Between the eastern cliff line and the ridge, the trail disappears completely.

There are intermittent trail markers to guide the way or, in some cases, red and white flagging tape has been tied around rocks and stray branches to indicate the correct route. Once you reach the ridgeline, the trail itself reappears to carry you to the summit.

For the most part, the markers are easy enough to follow, but it’s well worth having an offline map and gpx trail downloaded to help with navigation.

At the ridgeline, the trail darts left to meet the rugged Montenegrin border, where the confines of Kosovo protrude into its neighbour and connect a chain of green peaks.

Onwards, the route weaves back and forth through rocky terrain, scurrying along Hajla’s craggy spine for the final 1 km to the summit.

Although the trail here is clear and mostly straightforward, if you’re nervous around heights, it’s worth noting that there are one or two exposed sections with sheer drops where some scrambling is required.

Impressive views are a constant companion as you scoot along the mountain’s gnarled backbone, but the vistas as you step onto the summit of Hajla Peak are sublime, taking in the entirety of the Accursed Mountains from their northern boundary.

Sheer cliffs plunge into the vast wilderness that sprawls across northern Montenegro, swathes of verdant forest carpet the Kosovan foothills dominated by the formidable walls of Guri i Kuq, and endless peaks pierce the distant horizon, stretching as far as Gjeravica, Komovi and the Albanian Alps.

From Reke e Allages, the hike to Hajla Peak can be completed just 3 hours, including breaks for water and to munch on the delectable blueberries that sprout alongside the path.

With slightly less elevation gain from Pepaj, the ascent from here is even quicker.

On a sunny day midweek morning in early July, we were joined by just one other PoB hiker, otherwise we didn’t see another soul on the mountain all day making this a wonderful place to soak up the tranquility of these remote mountains.

After a well-deserved snack or early lunch break at the summit, continue straight along the ridge for a further 200 m where the rocky spine rejoins the grassy slope.

Cutting through a carpet of yellow and violet wildflowers, the path descends gradually in a wide switchback that brings you back to the junction at Hajla Pass.

From here, simply take your return route of choice – either heading back to Gjonit Pass for Rekë e Allagës and Pepaj, or towards the Hajla Mountain Hut to complete the western leg of the Pepaj circuit.

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TOP TIP   |   If you’re sticking with the eastern descent route to Pepaj via Gjonit Pass (following the official Peaks of the Balkans trail), you may notice a ‘shortcut’ on the map that connects the Hajla Mountain Hut with the road a short way south of the pass.

Do not make the same mistake we did by taking this route in an effort to avoid retreading old ground and lose a kilometre in the process. Although the trail appears clear at first, you’ll soon be required to climb down a sketchy boulder and cliff section which spits you into a field where the path is terribly overgrown – basically non-existent in parts – and felt a little too much like snake territory for our liking.

Stick to the main path instead and head directly back to Gjonit Pass via the way you came.

Before hiking Hajla Peak, we read several reports that the route was neither well-signposted nor marked. This is partially true, but provided you’re armed with an offline map and correct gpx track, you shouldn’t have any issues with navigation.

Aside from the final ascent to the ridge, the trail itself is clear and mostly marked the entire way, but general signage is somewhat lacking, particularly around intersections, so you do need to know where you’re going.

Around Hajla Peak, the path is easily discernible to begin with but, as mentioned, this disappears completely on the approach to the ridgeline where you’ll need to rely on the makeshift markers. Again, both trail and markers resume along the spine and are easy enough to follow across the summit and the entire way back around to Hajla Pass.

Around Rekë e Allagës, there are several small rambling trails that criss cross the hillside and cut across the main path with no markers or signage to speak of which can be confusing, but once you reach the dirt road, you can’t really go wrong.

In Pepaj, you’ll find several signs at the main village intersection indicating the way to Rekë e Allagës (anti-clockwise) and Qafa e Hajles (clockwise) among other destinations.

As the road between Gjonit Pass and Pepaj (the anti-clockwise or eastern route) falls along the PoB and Via Dinarica, there are regular markers here, though the same cannot be said for the western leg. Since both primarily fall along dirt road, they’re easy to follow, just be sure not to miss the turn off for Hajla Pass.

For those starting at or continuing on to Drelaj, there are no signs to indicate the way to / from Pepaj so you’ll also need to rely on your map or guidebook description for this final section.

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