31 January 2025.
The Lukavica plateau and its marvelous centre piece, Kapetanovo Jezero, remain as an untouched wilderness in the heart of Montenegro. Read on for the best things to see and do in the area.
At the start of 2024, I found myself deep down the rabbit hole of planning what would be my third visit to Montenegro.
In search of somewhere to stopover on my way to Durmitor National Park, I was scrolling about on Google Maps and stumbled across the tiny blue speck of Kapetanovo Jezero, a spectacular alpine lake encircled in the lush mountains of the Lukavica plateau.
Aside from a small guesthouse perched on its southern bank and an indistinct track that lead to a pair of neighbouring katuns, I had very little information to go on, but in a moment of blind faith, I hastily added this remote wilderness to my itinerary.
Isn’t that exactly how the best adventures begin after all.
Tucked away in the mountainous heart of Montenegro, around 2.5 hours from Podgorica, Lukavica is a place enveloped in complete serenity.
Lush flower-strewn meadows carpet the vast plateau punctured by rolling hills, rugged peaks and seasonal katuns.
Wifi and phone signal are out of reach, centuries-old shepherd trails weave across the landscapes, and the jangle of cowbells and collective bleating of sheep coalesce to form a pleasant bucolic soundscape.
Kapetanovo Jezero or Captain’s Lake, takes pride of place, protected by steep, chiselled mountains.
At dawn, golden sunlight caresses the highest peaks, while the vast expanse of water, glassy in the still morning air, creates a perfect mirror image, reflecting the slow arrival of a new day creeping across the mountains.
Watching this unfold, it’s hard to imagine a more peaceful or captivating place.
Hours from the nearest town, nightfall cloaks the lake in inky darkness and unveils a halo of infinite pinprick stars.
Enveloped in calm quiet, the silence is shattered only by the call of a distant sheepdog echoing through the mountains.
After a day of minding the flocks, this ignites a flurry of enthusiastic chatter that reverberates across the lake as news is shared from farm to farm, like a canine version of Chinese whispers.
Tourism here is still very much in its infancy.
In fact, until late 2023 the only way to reach this place was via a rough, solitary track that meandered through the countryside to the southern shore of the lake. This road was paved a little over a year ago as a way to attract new visitors.
Google Maps still hasn’t quite caught on though and is intent on sending guests the wrong way. Every. Single. Time.
In a world of overconsumption and overdevelopment, Lukavica remains a rare example in Europe of an unspoiled wilderness and, spectacular location aside, that is perhaps its greatest allure.
With its new road, rapid change is perhaps inevitable. But for now, it remains somewhere impossibly peaceful that embraces tranquil disconnect, authentic rural living and simply begs to be explored.
The new single-lane asphalt road that travels east across the Lukavica plateau is the only way to reach Kapetanovo Jezero by car.
Almost all other side roads remain unsealed, including the winding route from Međuriječje.
Google Maps is also virtually guaranteed to send you the wrong way, so prepare to take a few wrong turns before finding the correct road. Maps.me seems to have a better idea of the best way to go.
If you’re staying at the lake, your guesthouse should be able to provide a gpx track of the drive.
From Podgorica, head straight up the M18 towards Nikšic and exit onto Podgorički Put to begin your journey east.
Around the outskirts of town, Google will try to funnel you off through Dragovoljići, but ignore this and continue straight, turning left up the cobbled hill that leads to Oblatno instead.
Around 5km beyond Oblatno, veer right at the intersection and right again after a further 5km to stick along the correct route.
The road is now paved the entire way, though conditions are not great directly around Nikšic with the occasional pothole and uneven surfacing. If you find yourself on an unpaved road, you’ve likely taken a wrong turn.
The drive from Podgorica is around 90 km and takes 2.5 to 3 hours.
There is no public transport beyond Nikšic so the only way to reach Lukavica is with a rental car or you could potentially try to arrange a taxi in town.
When arriving at Kapetanovo Jezero, you’ll find a large gravel parking area at the end of the paved road.
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Accommodation at Kapetanovo Jezero is limited with just two rustic guesthouses located around the south bank of the lake which are operated by wonderfully hospitable local families.
Staying here is all about the spectacular location, getting back to nature and experiencing authentic, rural life in Montenegro. This is not a place to come expecting any kind of luxury with spartan cabins and basic facilities being the norm.
Think outdoor toilets, no showers, no heating, no internet and limited electricity.
Embrace that and you’re sure to have a thoroughly enjoyable visit, but the experience simply isn’t for everyone.
Hostel Jezero, also known as Household Minić, and Bungalovi Kapetanovo sit on either side of the entrance to the lake and offer compact A-frame cabins.
The former has an additional blue-roofed cabin on the hill which provides shared accommodation for groups. Their once waterfront bungalows are no longer lakeside and now sit in a cluster behind the village alongside the road.
Meals can be arranged if needed, consisting of hearty traditional fare served family-style amongst each group. For dinner, kačamak (a savoury cornmeal porridge) is a staple with stewed cabbage, roast or stewed lamb, vegetable soup, and salad.
Breakfast is often comprised of bread and priganice (fried dough balls) and, occasionally, a selection of dried meats, with a steaming cup of coffee or mountain tea. The lovely hosts also create many of their own natural products including jam, cheese and yoghurt which are served at the property.
As you will see, reviews are very mixed with some visitors who love the tranquility and homey setting and others who leave extremely disappointed with their lodgings. If you can temper your expectations on the whole sleeping/toilet situation, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more beautiful place to wake up to.
Camping is also popular alongside the lake with the large grassy field opposite the bungalows available for tents and camper vans. If you’re staying overnight, it’s extremely important to follow leave no trace principles.
For those who prefer their creature comforts, you’re better off staying in Nikšic which is located around 90 minutes away and visiting on a day trip. Rest Apartments and Apartmani Zecevic Niksic are both top-rated, good-value options. Search other accommodation options here.
Firstly, it’s important to know that there is very little infrastructure out here – come prepared to ensure you have the most enjoyable visit.
Phone + Internet |
As mentioned, there is no wifi or phone signal out here which is very much a good thing and offers a rare opportunity to completely disconnect.
Before arriving, be sure to download any offline maps, gpx routes and entertainment you might need.
It’s also worth communicating your arrival time with your guesthouse, especially if you’re going to be expecting dinner or are visiting outside the peak summer season.
Most properties at the lake have a landline phone and communication tends to go through a family member who lives in the city and has internet access who then calls the landline to pass along the information. Slightly convoluted, but it works!
There is intermittent phone signal on some of the higher mountains or along the drive in but for the most part the area is a black hole.
Hiking Trails |
This area simply begs to be explored and roaming these remote, unspoiled mountains is one of the great joys of visiting Lukavica.
Most of the tracks that exist out here are for practical purposes and have been used by farmers for decades.
However, to reach the most scenic viewpoints and mountain summits, there is most often a ‘known’ route, but no specific path, trail markings or signs. You’ll most often be waved off in a general direction and need to navigate for yourself.
If you do choose to go hiking out here, ensure that you’re able to be fully self-sufficient, stick within your limits and definitely tell your guesthouse where you’re going.
An offline topography map with the tracks that do exist is essential, along with plenty of water, food, sun protection, a charged battery pack and adequate weatherproof gear.
Further, going off track in sensitive natural areas is not something I would ever normally recommend, but in this case, many of these landscapes are roamed freely by shepherds and their livestock who graze the lush summer pastures.
Until proper paths are installed, a small amount of foot traffic is unlikely to have any more impact than the hundreds of sheep following the same route.
Food + Drinks |
As mentioned, you can enjoy hearty meals at the guesthouses for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Soft drinks, beer, wine, mountain tea and coffee are also available throughout the day. You’ll also find a restaurant – Konak Etno – located beside the parking area.
Out here, it’s cash only so be sure to bring enough for the duration of your visit.
For hikers, there are no shops anywhere nearby so I’d recommend stocking up on supplies for packed lunches and snacks in the city before travelling to the lake. You’ll find all the main supermarket chains located in both Nikšic and Podgorica.
Drinking water is readily available with taps spouting clean spring water from the mountain.
Whether you visit for an afternoon or a long weekend, no trip to Kapetanovo Jezero is complete without walking over the hill to Manito Lake which lies tucked away in the surrounding hills at 1,790 metres.
The 3 km out and back walk is reasonably easy and one of few in the area that has a defined trail.
Follow the steep gravel road straight up the hill from the south east corner of the lake.
At the top, the trail flattens out and becomes more rocky, forging between two hills and guiding you into a wide grassy basin.
Manito Lake is much smaller than Kapetanovo, but has a lovely setting, surrounded by a carpet of vivid shamrock green and gnarled rocky walls.
Behind the lake, the distinct embankment of Jablanovac rears up and can be reached in just 800 metres.
The trail is mostly undetectable through thick vegetation but it’s possible to forge your own path and clamber up the steep slope to the summit or edge of the escarpment.
Perched high above the valley, the views are wonderful gazing towards stark limestone peaks that tower above the treetops, and back towards the two lakes.
Dominating the steep western flank of Kapetanovo Jezero, the thimble-like crest of Nikolin Vrh is unmistakable, climbing to 1,984 m.
With no discernible trail up the mountain, I had expected this one to be out of reach, but after meeting a pair of mountain guides at breakfast, we were given a rough explanation of the best route and invited to follow their hiking group to the summit.
Staring straight at the peak, follow the road behind the A-frame cabins as far as you can and head up the grassy slope towards the saddle that divides Nikolin and Stubica, manoeuvring around the boulders and sections of stunted cliff.
About half way up, start heading to the right and then continue steeply up through the ravine towards the ridge line and push onto the summit from here.
The route is around 1.5 km one way and very steep in parts, cutting through vegetated terrain. At a good pace, you can reach the summit in under an hour.
The views overlooking the lake are sublime and you’ll be welcomed with sweeping vistas over the boundless mountains that extend in all directions.
Now, while the hiking group was pushing on along the ridge to Ilijin Vrh at 2,051 m, I was keen to continue exploring higher up the valley.
Rather than return down the eastern face via the same route, I was advised to continue along the escarpment, following the contours of the mountain which would bring me back to the gravel road that encircles the lake.
Though I was skeptical at first, this free roaming worked a treat and deposited me back on the main track about half way up the hill.
It is possible to descend via the same route, but the steep slopes do make this something of a challenge.
Again, there are no trail markings or proper paths here so I’d really only recommend attempting this if you’re a confident and experienced hiker, and comfortable with navigation.
Your guesthouse should be able to indicate the best way up and downloading a gpx track of the route is a good idea.
Out here in what feels like the middle of nowhere, a newly-constructed sandstone church is perhaps the last thing you’d expect to see.
Set right along the roadside just 2.5 km from Kapetanovo Jezero, Lukavica’s Church of St. Elijah holds a beautiful location at the base of a wide green valley flanked by craggy slopes.
The church remains closed during the week, but it’s a decent place to stop for a quick break and stretch your legs.
Perched around the head of the Ratinja Valley, the remote katun of Markov Mramor holds a spectacular position nestled in the shadow of Vojnovac Peak.
A katun is essentially a rural community or farmstead that is often occupied only during the warmer months to allow livestock to graze the lush summer pastures.
These have existed in the Balkans for centuries and you’ll see these properties peppered across the Montenegrin countryside, some long abandoned and left in ruins, others maintained as a base for seasonal use.
Setting off from the lake, it’s a relaxed 5 km jaunt to Markov Mramor along a clear gravel road which is marked on the map. The route skirts around the left bank before climbing gradually over a rise that leads into the valley beyond.
Carpeted in fresh spring growth, the surrounding landscapes are beautiful, painted in vibrant green and punctured with boulder fields, bald hills and rugged peaks.
Entering the valley, the landscapes cascade down in two distinct steps before plunging into the spectacular Morača Canyon, its dramatic walls rearing up on the opposite bank.
The lush upper plateau is speckled with a collection of colourful farmhouses and stone animal pens, while the lower ledge is strewn with the ruins of long deserted katuns.
Soaring overhead, the hulking giant of Vojnovac is an impressive sight and scaling its precipitous slopes seems like another inconceivable feat. And yet, the tiny figure of a shepherd standing proudly at its summit surrounded by his flock certainly proved me wrong.
From here, it’s possible to return back the same way you came, but for those keen to explore further, take a close look at your map and you’ll see another track running almost parallel that leads to Dolovi.
Rather than backtracking along the same route, keep an eye out for a clear, unmarked, unmapped track that cuts across the mountains on the approach to Markov Mramor.
This leads over the hill, past further abandoned huts to the remaining farm of Dolovi.
Here, you can pick up the rough, overgrown road from the map that climbs gradually for the next 1.5 km and intersects with the main gravel track that will bring you back to the lake.
The entire circuit is 10 km and takes around 3 hours to complete. I combined this trail with the hike up Nikolin Vrh, descending from the peak to join the road at the northern end of the lake and continuing from there.
Fed by a narrow stream that trickles down from the mountains, Vrela Waterfall is a small cascade that tumbles into a shallow natural pool just 1.5 km from the southern tip of Captain’s Lake.
It’s an easy walk down the asphalt road before turning left onto the gravel track and following a small trail through the flower-filled fields to the creek.
The falls are most impressive when the mountains begin to shed their winter coat and the rivers are at their fullest. By summer, things have mostly dried up.
As such, the waterfall is not hugely impressive for most of the year, but if you’ve got a spare hour, it’s a lovely spot surrounded by beautiful countryside.
To create a circuit walk, continue down the path to the gravel track that feeds east through the valley all the way to Mrtvica Canyon, and head right to return to the asphalt road which will bring you back to the lake.
If you’ve seen just one image of Lukavica, chances are it’s of the crown-like pyramid of Mali Žurim standing guard over the tiny hamlet of Zaragacki Katun.
While it’s possible to reach the peak’s craggy summit at 1,965 m, the route is technical, exposed and recommended as a mountaineering route rather than a straightforward hike.
However, its slightly taller sister Veliki Žurim (2,035 m) offers up a much easier hiking route with equally sublime views.
Technically, you can hike directly from Kapetanovo Jezero, but better is to drive around to Zaragacki Katun and begin the hike from there. You’ll find a large grassy parking area on the outskirts of the village where the asphalt road ends.
Initially, the trail is clear and easy to follow, beginning along a dirt road and cutting through a steep spray of rockfall before entering a vast green basin that lies nestled between the two mountains.
Here, the trail veers left and begins to climb onto the plateau where it soon peters out and you’ll need to rely on trail markers alone to navigate.
At the top of the rise, turn left again to ascend the steep vegetated slope that leads to the edge of the escarpment and onto the summit.
The views are spectacular overlooking the vivid green countryside and extending as far as the distinctive peak of Bobotov Kuk in Durmitor National Park to the west, and the enchanting Komovi Mountains in the east.
The hike is 6.6 km out and back and takes around 3 hours to complete. It’s also marked and mapped though a proper trail is only established for the first half so you’ll need to be able to navigate your own way to the top.
Prefer to lakeside and chill rather than clamber your way up a mountain?
You’ll find several grassy patches strung along the banks where you can throw down a towel, sprawl out in the sun and while away an afternoon basking in solitude beside the water.
Heading out for a swim or kayak amongst the mountains is also a beautiful way to experience the area, though keep in mind that the lakebed is rather squelchy with mud so pick your entry point carefully. Hostel Jezero rents out kayaks for free to guests.
Best of all though is stealing into the cold blue morning to witness sunrise over the lake, when the landscapes are serene, silent and entirely mesmerizing, waiting in anticipation for golden rays to finally explode over the mountains and cascade into the basin, bathing everything in rich morning light.
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