9 August 2024.
Rugged and remote, the Komovi Mountains and wider Komovi Nature Park are one of the best hiking destinations in Montenegro. This guide covers everything you need to know plan your visit.
Komovi evokes the kind of ethereal beauty that is the stuff of fairytales, as powerful as it is enchanting.
Imposing peaks reminiscent of Mount Doom tower above a carpet of ancient forests and lush meadows. Dense fog cascades across the escarpment, revealing glimpses of the vertiginous cliffs concealed within. Rocky spires puncture a moody sky above an impossibly pretty valley and an otherworldly lake captures it all in a perfect, mesmerising reflection.
Tucked away along the eastern border of Montenegro, Komovi embodies a wild, untouched remoteness and quiet way of life that often feels long forgotten in our rapidly changing world.
Here, the vibrant green landscapes are smattered by isolated summer katuns, many of which are inaccessible by car. They ooze bucolic charm and showcase an authentic, unhurried way of life that is infectious. Where hitting the many spectacular hiking trails or spending an afternoon nursing endless cups of tea, spellbound by the views, are equally rewarding.
The craggy peaks of Komovi’s striking massif undoubtedly offer up some of the best hiking in Montenegro, while the endless green foothills of the surrounding countryside could keep intrepid visitors occupied for weeks.
For those looking to get further off the beaten path in Montenegro, Komovi is a wonderful place to visit and was a highlight of my trip. If you love hiking, being out in nature or just savouring a quiet afternoon in a spectacular setting, I’m sure you’ll love it too.
This guide covers everything you need to know to plan your visit to the Komovi Mountains and Komovi Nature Park, including where to stay, visit and hike.
Forming part of the southern section of the Dinaric Alps, the spectacular Komovi Mountains lie in eastern Montenegro, rising up between Kolašin and Andrijevica, near the border with Albania.
Komovi or the Komovi Mountains has historically referred to a formation of iconic peaks that tower above the small mountain settlement of Štavna. Marked by their impressive twin peak formation, this rugged massif is actually made up of three distinct mountains – Vasojevićki Kom, Ljevorečki Kom and Kučki Kom– as well as several smaller peaks which puncture the green foothills.
However in 2018, the Komovi Nature Park or Park Prirode Komovi was established to protect the rich biodiversity and ecological significance of the wider region that sprawls between the Prokletije National Park and Biogradska Gora National Park, and the Lim and Tara Rivers.
This nature park encompasses the main Komovi massif, as well as the surrounding landscapes of lush mountains, remote summer katuns and glacial lakes.
Located directly at the foot of Vasojevićki and its neighbouring peaks, Štavna is the gateway for the Komovi Mountains and makes an excellent base for hiking.
To explore the wider Komovi Nature Park, I’d also recommend choosing a village or town closer to the southern side of the park – such as Mokra or Veruša – which allows better access to other parts of the region.
It’s worth noting that much of Komovi is only accessible via rough gravel road or heavily damaged paved road which does make getting here and around a little more eventful and is something to consider if travelling by rental car.
Štavna lies around an hour from both Kolašin and Andrijevica off the M9, or 2 hours from Podgorica.
From either direction, navigate towards Trešnjevik and turn onto the CT-1 where you’ll reach the official entrance to the Komovi Nature Park.
The initial section of road from Mateševo to Trešnjevik is damaged and potholed, but thankfully much of the way is newly paved as you climb into the mountains. At the turn off, there’s a large restaurant and a boom gate where you’ll need to pay the park entrance fee.
Heading into the park, there are two roads that lead to Štavna and the main hiking trails. Neither are in good condition, but one is far better than the other.
After 1.5 km you’ll reach a sign-posted fork in the road. To the right looks like a rough, beat up dirt track, while the road straight ahead is still nicely paved.
Though it will go against your better instincts, the better option is actually to turn right here onto the dirt road. This travels through the forest following a series of wide switchbacks which climb gradually before emerging on the grassy plateau that leads directly to Štavna and the peaks.
By continuing straight ahead along the paved road, this means you’ll arrive below the village and will then need to drive steeply uphill along a different dirt road to reach the top of the plateau. I did see cars doing this and it didn’t look all that pleasant, particularly if you’re in a small car.
Now, the dirt road from the right fork is in pretty poor condition, with large rocks, uneven surfaces and erosion dips along the way so you definitely need to be careful and go slowly – I was puttering along in first gear. That said, it’s manageable in a small, 2WD with a lot of patience and deliberate manoeuvring across the terrain.
Soon enough you’ll come over a rise where the peaks rear up directly before you. The road flattens out here along the plateau and its condition improves.
After 3.5 km of dirt road, you’ll reach a wide grassy clearing at the intersection with Kobil Do Road. You can park here or continue straight ahead for a further kilometre to where the hiking trails begin.
Across the valley from Štavna, the small katun of Martinovića is another potential starting point for the Komovi hikes and the easiest access point for Kom Ljevorečki. The location is equally stunning, though based on recent reviews, the 9 km dirt track that leads to the settlement is also in poor condition so I would only recommend taking this route in you’re travelling in a large, sturdy vehicle.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR | The only way to get around Komovi is by car. The best collection point in Montenegro is from Podgorica – either directly from the airport or from the downtown area near the bus station.
I recommend using Discover Cars who offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
For the wider Komovi Nature Park, there are many small villages and settlements speckled across the countryside that could be used as base from which to explore.
Given it’s proximity to Bukumirsko Lake, Surdup Peak and other nearby hiking trails, I’d recommend lovely little Mokra (where I stayed) or Veruša which are located around 90 minutes from Štavna and Podgorica, or an hour from Kolašin.
For Bukumirsko Lake, navigate to the P19 from either Mateševo in the north or Pelev Brigej in the south, turning onto the TT4 at Veruša. There are five TT trails in Montenegro which stand for Top Biking Trails and follow thematic cycling routes across the country.
Follow the road through the countryside for 8 km where you’ll reach the turn off to Mokra on your left, and 100 m further along is the turn for Bukumirsko Lake on your right.
Heading out of Veruša, the road is paved but in terrible condition with enormous potholes and heavy damage, but things do improve as you go further up the valley with much of the way now newly sealed. The road is also only a single lane here so be wary of oncoming traffic.
Continue for 2.5 km over the ridge and down the switchbacks on the other side, taking the left turn at the bottom of the hill for the final stretch to the lake.
From here, the road is unpaved though in reasonably good condition for most of the way. About 100 m from the intersection is a stone water fountain where there is space for 2 to 3 cars. I’d recommend parking here and continuing on foot.
From here, it’s 700m to the viewpoint for Bukumirsko Lake, or 1.5 km to the viewpoint of the unnamed second lake.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR | The only way to get around Komovi is by car. The best collection point in Montenegro is from Podgorica – either directly from the airport or from the downtown area near the bus station. Find the best deals on car rental here.
Unfortunately, there is no reliable public transport options to the Komovi Mountains or within the Komovi Nature Park.
It’s possible to reach as far as Kolašin or Mateševo by bus from Podgorica, however from here you will need to arrange a private transfer the rest of the way.
Taxis may be an options from Kolašin or Andrijevica. I’d recommend checking with your guesthouse for advice on availability. Check bus timetables here.
To access Komovi near Štavna, there is a €2 entrance fee per person, per day. This entrance fee is only charged at the boom gate for the Komovi Mountains, I didn’t encounter park officers in any other areas of the Komovi Nature Park.
At the time of writing, this was not included as part of Montenegro’s National Parks Annual Pass.
Accommodation in this remote part of the mountains is somewhat limited, however most villages have at least one guesthouse and some of the small katuns do welcome guests over summer.
Though rustic, staying in the countryside beneath these spectacular mountains is really worthwhile, however those after a more comfortable stay will find plenty of options in Andrijevica and Kolašin
Štavna + Martinovica
If you’re prepared to tackle the dirt road, then it is absolutely worth spending at least a night in Štavna. Watching the sun rise and set over these glorious peaks and the morning mist roll over the treetops is simply magical.
On summer weekends, Štavna is particularly popular with local hiking groups so I’d recommend booking ahead as accommodation does fill up quickly.
Kobil Do Guesthouse | Offering rustic but cosy bungalows, you really can’t beat the location of Kobil Do with garden views looking straight onto the stark peaks and across the valley where distant mountains are silhouetted against the setting sun. A set breakfast and traditional dinner is available from the on site restaurant for an additional fee (around €25). Check rates and availability here.
Eko Katun Martinovica 1750 | Set on the ridge opposite Štavna, this property has a fantastic location, gazing straight up at the formidable face of Kom Vasojevićki. It’s also well situated for climbing Kom Ljevorečki, shaving off about 2 hours of hiking time compared with starting from Štavna. Aside from the challenging dirt road access, guests rave about the food and location of this gem in the mountains. Check rates and availability here.
Note | Eko Katun Štavna or Etno Selo Štavna is widely recommended online and you’ll see the cabins lined up along the hillside, however this property is now permanently closed.
Mokra + Veruša
Nestled in the lush valley below Mount Maglič, Mokra is the place that bucolic Balkan dreams are made of.
Horses roam freely across verdant pastures, swishing their tails in the sunshine. The metallic jangle of cowbells and hum of bees are the only interruption to an otherwise blissful silence. Lush peaks flank the valley and fire flies illuminate the forests come nightfall.
It’s a wonderfully peaceful place that gives a glimpse into authentic life in the Montenegrin countryside and makes an ideal base to explore some of the nearby hiking trails.
Katun Mokra | Offering both small and large A-frame bungalows and apartments, the charming accommodation here is simple, spacious and well-equipped for a comfortable countryside stay. I only spent one night here, consuming endless cups of tea on the terrace, climbing the hill to watch the sunset and watching a wild mountain storm roll in over the peaks, but I could have easily whiled away a few more afternoons right here. The host is very passionate about his horses and the surrounding nature and is able to arrange riding or walking tours for guests. Check rates and availability here.
Apartment Old House | Set on a working farm, this lovely stone cottage just outside Veruša is surrounded by greenery and has a peaceful setting beside the river. Guests speak highly of the wonderful hosts, the location and the excellent food which is sourced entirely from the farm’s produce. Check rates and availability here.
Andrijevica + Kolašin
For those preferring the comforts of a larger town over a remote mountain escape, both Andrijevica and Kolašin are located about an hour away from Štavna, while Kolašin is an hour from Mokra and Bukumirsko Lake.
Hotel Komovi | Located in the heart of Andrijevica, this welcoming mountain chalet is a perfect choice for those still wanting to retain some creature comforts after a day of hiking. Some rooms are a little dated, while others have been newly renovated, and are well appointed with wooden detailing. Check rates and availability here.
Max Apartments | Top-rated Max is an excellent budget option offering a range of self-contained studio apartments in the centre of Kolasin. Check rates and availability here.
Chalet Kolašin | A classic mountain chalet, this 4-star hotel offers spacious rooms with mountain views, an onsite spa and sauna perfect for post-hike relaxation and includes an excellent breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Komovi is remarkably picturesque and the best way to experience the area and get up close with nature is to hit the trails, take a scenic drive and settle into the tranquil slow pace of country life.
To get the most out of your visit, I’d recommend a minimum stay of 2 days / 3 nights which will allow enough time to hike one of the Komovi peaks and visit Bukumirsko Lake and the surrounding countryside.
For those with more time to spare, you could easily spend a week traversing these landscapes or the entire park.
The three main peaks that form the magnificent Komovi massif are unmistakable as you begin your approach towards Štavna.
From the main road, they loom large and impressive above the lush tree tops, while further afield, they are a constant point of reference on the distant horizon while hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail through the Accursed Mountains.
But climbing these austere rocky peaks that climb more than 2,000 metres is no easy feat.
All three hikes are challenging and technical with loose rocky terrain, exposed ridges with sharp drops and require some degree of rock scrambling with no fixed cables along the route. The peaks should not be attempted in bad weather and hiking poles and sturdy hiking boots are highly recommended.
Waymarkings and signage along the trails are reasonably good and all three hikes are accessible from the yellow hiking sign in Štavna that sits at the base of Vasojevićki where the road ends. There are also four icy freshwater springs nearby to refill your water bottle before setting off (locations are marked on maps.me).
From Štavna, Vasojevićki Kom (also referred to as Božićki) is the hulking beast that rises up on the left, climbing to 2,461m. The difficult 7.5 km out and back hike to the summit requires around 4 hours for the return journey and is regarded as the ‘easier’ option of the three.
The trail follows a rocky path up the grassy slope of the peak and across loose rockfall, climbing between steep cliffs before emerging on the summit ridge where the trail hugs the escarpment. The outlook towards Kučki Kom and Vasojevićki Kom, and across Prokletije National Park is magnificent.
Reaching 2,470m, Ljevorečki Kom is the least visited of the three peaks but is no less rewarding. With two out and back trails leading to the summit that intersect near Bjelega, Ljevorečki is able to be climbed from both Stavna (10.6 km, 6 hours) or Martinovica (5.2 km, 3 hours).
Finally, Kučki Kom is the highest of the peaks climbing to 2,487m via a challenging 10km out and back trail that takes around 6 hours to complete from Štavna.
Following the same trail as Ljevorečki for the first 90 minutes, the path meanders through beautiful alpine meadows speckled with wildflowers, tracing the rockfall on Vasojevićki’s eastern flank and climbing through a grassy bowl filled with large boulders towards the Carina Pass.
The final push to the summit is more akin to walking up Mt Doom – steep and sprayed with loose rocks. The remainder of the hike is challenging and requires plenty of scrambling, some climbing, and scuttling along the narrow ridge towards the summit.
But the epic views are the reward with the green foothills of the Komovi range rolling away into the distance and the jagged spires of Ljevorečki and Vasojevićki rising up on either side.
My visit was marred by a Saharan dust storm and severe heat wave which obscured much of the landscapes, but even through the haze, the distant silhouettes of peaks were still visible. On a clear day, it’s possible to see as far as Bobotov Kuk in Durmitor National Park and Maja Jezerce in the Albanian Alps.
While Komovi’s majestic trio of peaks dominate the landscapes, the surrounding area is punctured by dozens of smaller peaks that spill into rolling green hills that are ripe for exploration.
Though information online is sparse, take a closer look at your map and you’ll see these landscapes are well served by hiking trails that historically linked the hundreds of summer settlements that lie scattered across the mountain range.
One such trail is the fantastic Komovi Circle which encircles the main massif.
Starting from Stavna, the route heads to the right around the base of Ljevorečki before climbing onto the Rogam Plateau, across the Pričelja Pass (Cafa od Pričelja) and into the Carina Plateau which is peppered with the ruins of dozens of abandoned stone shepherd huts. Cutting around the eastern flank of Vasojevićki, the trail continues over Varda and descends through the Mačak Forest returning to Stavna.
The Komovi Circle trail is 21 km and can be completed over one very long 10 hour day or broken into two if you’re prepared to camp over night.
Further south, Maglič or Maglič kučki (not to be confused with Maglić which straddles the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina) is a relatively easy climb which flanks the Mokro Valley and provides magnificent views from its summit and sprawling ridge line.
The peak is best accessed from the south by starting from Širokar or Katun Ljakovica. Either follow the rough dirt road (TT4) here from Mokra by car (4WD recommended), bike or on foot, or take the signposted 601 hiking trail from Bukumirsko Lake which passes beneath Torač Peak.
From Katun Ljakovica, the trail is 7.5 km / 3 hours return, or from Bukumirsko Lake, it’s 13 km / 4.5 hours one way.
South of Katun Ljakovica, it’s also possible to hike the 4.2 km trail to the stunning Rikavačko Lake nestled beneath a wall of rugged peaks that mark the natural border with Albania.
Unfortunately I wasn’t able to complete all these walk during my visit, but these are a selection of the key Komovi hiking trails that appear to be signposted and marked. Those equipped with a tent and willing to be self sufficient could very well spend weeks exploring these mountains, linking several trails together and enjoying the solitude that these remote mountains afford.
The Crnogorska Transverzala 1 (CT1) or Montenegro Transversal covers 164 km of hiking trail that cross from the east to the northwest of the country, taking in Komovi Nature Park, Biogradska Gora National Park, Durmitor National Park, and the remote wilderness in between.
The Komovi section begins from Bukumirsko Lake, trailing up the valley to Širokar before cutting north towards Maglič and the Carina Plateau, and onwards to the Komovi massif and Trešnjevik where it leaves the park.
This section of the hike is 31 km and can be completed over 2 to 3 days. There are very few isolated katuns that operate over summer so it is recommended to bring a tent and be fully self sufficient.
Tucked away in the mountainous southern fringe of Komovi Nature Park, Bukumirsko is a small glacial lake which sits at 1,443m.
Encircled by bare, craggy peaks that plunge into rolling, forested hills, it’s an eerily enchanting scene that would fit seamlessly on the pages of a storybook.
To reach Bukumirsko Lake, follow the directions outlined above and leave your car at the water fountain, continuing up the dirt road on foot. After about 600 m, a tiny, barely visible trail veers off the the right onto a rocky outcrop that overlooks the lake and mountains.
However, for the best vantage point, continue down the path to the right and cut back along the shoreline where lily pads adorn the surface and the striking backdrop casts a perfect reflection on the lake.
Just magic.
Onwards, the trail rejoins the dirt road and passes Katun Ivanovića where you can climb the small hill for views of the second, now dried up lake, and the verdant meadows that extend towards the base of Surdup Peak.
It’s a gorgeous pocket of countryside, speckled with katuns and grazing sheep, where several hiking trails fan out to the west and south towards the Torač and Treskavac Peaks. Paths to Maglič and Širokar also begin here.
Fed by winter snowmelt, the lake is at its fullest in early spring but has usually completely dried up by the time autumn rolls around so be sure to visit early in the season to enjoy the lake at its best.
In an area ripe with natural beauty, no feature is more distinct than the imposing (and dare I say, slightly phallic) spire of Surdup Peak which pierces the sky beyond Bukumirsko Lake.
Marking the highest peak of the Kučka Krajina Mountains which are located in the southern section of the Komovi Nature Park and also known as the Žijovo range, a lollipop trail leads from Bukumirsko Lake to Štitan Peak at 2,172 m before continuing on to Surdup Peak at 2,184 m and returning directly to the valley via an unnamed mountain pass.
The moderate 11km circuit takes 5 to 6 hours, climbing up steep and rocky terrain through spectacular scenery and providing even better summit views.
There is a large information board along the dirt road near the lake with details of the trail and the way is marked for the entire route, though some sections are slightly overgrown.
Unfortunately, a storm rolled through the valley on the day I visited and it just wasn’t safe to climb the peak, but I’ve certainly put this one on the list for my next visit.
Find the Freshwater Springs
There are several freshwater springs scattered around the Komovi Nature Park, providing delicious ice cold drinking water to take on your hike. This is a common occurrence across much of the Balkans and often a point of pride for the locals.
There are at least four located in Stavna which are all marked on maps.me. The Jankova Fountain is located along the dirt road just below the Kučki Kom trail and is perhaps the easiest to access for those heading up the mountain.
The main spring near Bukumirsko Lake is marked in the wrong location and is instead 100m further down the road towards the lake from the final intersection.
I never had any issue finding water at these springs during my visit, but it’s worth noting that some do dry up over summer.
While the opportunity to disconnect is certainly a good thing and lends perfectly to the country charm of these landscapes, it does mean you need to plan ahead when it comes to checking the weather and researching your hiking routes.
These days, you can find internet at some guesthouses in Stavna, though not all, but Bukumirsko Lake and the surrounding area has very limited reception and internet access.
If you are going hiking out here, it’s a good idea to let someone know where you’re going as storms are common and there is very little in the way of vehicle and foot traffic, even during the peak summer months.
As there are so few accommodation options available in the region, even outside of the peak July and August summer season, places do get busy and are most often fully booked over the weekend.
Visiting in mid June, I settled on my itinerary only to find that both Stavna and Mokra had no availability for the dates I was after. With some rearranging, I managed to line up one night in each of Kolasin, Stavna and Mokra, but I’d highly recommend booking ahead to avoid missing out.
Unlike much of the Peaks of the Balkans accommodation, not all guesthouses in Komovi are able to provide your meals and there are very few restaurants available outside of Kolašin and Andrijevica.
I’d recommend confirming this with your guesthouse in advance when making your reservation and advise if you’re expecting dinner, breakfast or lunch and what your options are so that they can arrange this for you if needed. Particularly if visiting outside of peak season, guesthouses are more likely to end their meal service when guest numbers begin to dwindle.
Alternatively, stock up on supplies from the supermarket in Podgorica or Kolašin to self-cater during your visit. As a last resort, there is also a very small market in Mateševo for the basics.
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