15 November 2024.
Lac de Gaube, bound by colossal peaks in the shadow of the majestic Vignemale massif, is among the most spectacular sights in the French Pyrenees. This guide covers everything you need to know for your visit.
Mesmerising Lac de Gaube captured the imaginations of some of the 19th century’s most influential and enduring writers.
Cradled beneath towering peaks, its azure expanse is a mirror of the vastness that surrounds it. A worthy gateway to the majestic mountains that lie beyond.
Standing in such a sublime setting, it’s hardly surprising that this place inspired the likes of Victor Hugo and Baudelaire to explore the grandiosity of nature, the tranquil solitude of the mountains, and these immense landscapes as the very soul of the earth.
This exact scene continues to fill visitors with awe, though as one of the most popular destinations in the French Pyrenees, it is decidedly less peaceful than it was for the poets some hundred years ago.
Today, Lac de Gaube is easily accessible on foot or via cable car from Pont d’Espagne in the Pyrenees National Park and acts as the entry point for the magnificent Vignemale massif that marks the end of the Gaube Valley.
The trail to the lake can be completed in a relatively easy hour of walking, though for those wanting to extend their hike, a popular and spectacularly beautiful option is to continue on to the Refuge Oulettes de Gaube, nestled before the Vignemale.
Discover everything you need to know for your visit in this comprehensive guide for hiking Lac de Gaube.
Distance | 16 km
Duration | 6 hours
Elevation | 1,463 m to 2,155 m (746 m gain)
Difficulty | Easy to Moderate
Trailhead | Pont d’Espagne
Lac de Gaube lies in the Gaube Valley, situated in the upper reaches of the Vallée de Cauterets, one of six main valleys in the Pyrenees National Park (Parc national des Pyrénées) in France’s stunning Hautes-Pyrénées department.
The closest village to Lac de Gaube is Cauterets, a picturesque spa town in the mountains, well-known for its rejuvenating thermal waters and access to winter ski slopes.
Pont d’Espagne is the gateway to the Gaube Valley and is located a short drive from Cauterets. It is also the access point for the Vallée du Marcadau and Cirque du Lys for those looking to explore further afield.
The larger town of Lourdes is located around 30 minutes away and also makes a popular base for visiting the area.
Pont d’Espagne can be easily reached from Cauterets by car, public transport or on foot.
From Cauterets, it’s just a 20-minute drive to Pont d’Espagne along the D920, a lovely road surrounded by forest that follows the Marcadau River past a series of beautiful cascades.
There is a large parking area here which is paid with entry controlled by a boom gate. Parking costs €8 per day or up to €11 for more than 12 hours.
There are also a handful of small overflow parking bays located along the road. If you manage to arrive early enough, you may be able to nab one of these spots for free.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Both Pau and Toulouse have several options for car rental from either the train station or airport. Public transport is extremely limited in the region so visiting with your own vehicle is the best way to explore.
For this trip I used and would recommend Discover Cars who offered by far the most competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
During the peak summer season, a shuttle bus operates daily between Cauterets and Pont d’Espagne.
Between July and August, departures are every two hours between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. with a reduced schedule for June and September. Tickets cost €5.50 / €8.50 pp for a single / return journey. See details here.
To reach Cauterets, bus 965 travels between Gare de Lourdes and Cauterets several times a day. Check the timetable here.
Lourdes is connected to Pau and other major cities via train. Toulouse, Biarritz and Bordeaux offer the best flight connections to reach this area of the Pyrenees. Plan your trip here.
To reach Pont d’Espagne on foot, follow the Chemin des Cacades from Cauterets.
This beautiful walking trail climbs through the forested valley alongside the Gave du Marcadau, bringing you past seven waterfalls that culminate in the magnificent Cascade du Pont d’Espagne.
The trail is 6 km each way with 400 m of elevation gain and takes 1.5 to 3 hours depending on your direction.
At 12 km return, this trail would be too long to add onto the full Lac de Gaube hike outlined below, however it’s a decent option for those on a multi-day hike arriving without their own transport, or anyone taking the shuttle up to Pont d’Espagne and wanting to return on foot.
For those visiting on a day hike, the charming spa town of Cauterets makes an excellent base and is also a decent jumping off point for visiting the famous Cirque du Gavarnie which is located an hour away.
Anyone planning a multi-day hike should opt for one of the many mountain refuges which operate in this region during the summer months.
Refuge des Oulletes de Gaube | Located at the top of Vallée de Gaube at the foot of the epic Vignemale massif, this refuge is perfectly situated for anyone hoping to spend more time in this spectacular location and makes an excellent jumping off point for venturing into the high alpine plateau.
The refuge offers space for 95 guests in dormitory style accommodation with options for half or full board. No showers onsite. Cash only.
For a multi-day hiking itinerary, other refuges that can be reached within a day of walking include: Refuge du Clot, Refuge Wallon-Marcadau, Refuge de Bayssellance and Refuge d’Estom. Most operate only through summer and also fall along the popular GR10 route.
Though there are a few hotels and guesthouses located in Cauterets, the vast majority of accommodation is seasonal private apartments.
These may provide a lovely and convenient option for longer stays, however most cater to local tourists and expect guests to provide their own bedding/towels (or charge a supplement for ‘disposable bedding’) and/or cleaning.
For those flying in or only staying for a couple of nights, this often isn’t ideal. If you do choose an apartment, be sure to read the conditions carefully when booking.
Some hotels do provide private parking, otherwise you’ll find two large free parking areas beside the station, an excellent alternative to competing for the limited spots available in the tiny city streets.
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Hôtel du Lion d’Or | The historic, family-run Golden Lion Hotel is located in the heart of Cauterets and is cosy and filled with character, but with modern touches added throughout. A fantastic traditional French breakfast is available, complete with a selection of seasonal jams, preserves and pastries homemade onsite by the lovely hosts. Check rates and availability here.
Les Ruisseaux | Located along the road leading into Cauterets, this charming century-old house has been thoughtfully renovated and transformed into a top-rated bed and breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Pont d’Espagne marks the confluence of the Gaube and Marcadau Rivers, a place of powerful cascades where water surges across the rocky terrain year round.
The area is named after the historic Spanish Bridge, a beautifully constructed stone archway which was built in 1886 and provided a much-needed improvement to the haphazardly lain tree trunks that had previously spanned the narrow void.
Situated at 1,496 m, this area has long existed as a point of trade between France and Spain, acting as a marketplace in the 1800s that connected the Pyrenean communities of Cauterets and Panticosa via the high mountain pass.
The complex is beautiful and well worth a visit, though it does get particularly busy, especially in summer and on weekends, so I’d recommend hitting the hiking trail for Lac de Gaube first and then returning to explore Pont d’Espagne on your way back to the car park.
Be sure to visit the viewpoint to the west of the bridge which looks directly onto the impressive Cascade du Pont d’Espagne, and the viewpoint to the east that looks up at the magical archway from below with its torrents of water hurtling through the narrow crevice.
From here, you can cross the lower bridge which also provides a lovely view and follow the path back to the parking area, or stick on the left bank of the river to continue on the Chemin des Cacades all the way to Cauterets.
Directly opposite the Cascade du Pont d’Espagne, there’s also a busy restaurant and bar which looks onto the waterfall. Though I didn’t stop here myself and the reviews are not great, it is an unbeatable location to enjoy a well-deserved drink with prime views after your hike.
Setting out from the parking area, pass through the Puntas Gondola Station and continue up the paved road for 300 m, following the signs for Lac de Gaube until you reach the proper path veering off to the left.
Beginning along a wide forest trail, the trail climbs gradually up a series of switchbacks between towering confers draped in bearded lichen.
After 1 km, you’ll arrive at a clearing where a patch of large flat boulders overwhelm the path making the way somewhat unclear.
A trail leading off the right will bring you to the small but beautiful Lac de Huats in just 150 m, otherwise veer left to stay on the main trail.
Onwards, the path flattens out and craggy cliffs appear ahead, soaring above the treetops.
After a further 1 km, the trail passes close to the river and you’ll emerge from the forest on the banks of Lac de Gaube, around 1 hour after setting off from Pont d’Espagne.
Cradled between the steep, impenetrable walls of the Gaube Valley, the mint-coloured expanse of the lake climbs into the first of many waterfalls and the rugged peaks beyond.
Dominated by the sharp spire of Vignemale encrusted with glaciers, it’s no wonder this spectacular setting has inspired writers for centuries and is woven through the world’s they create on the page.
This is not a place to rush through, particularly if you’ve arrived early enough to beat the crowds of day-trippers. Enjoy your time soaking up the magical views beside the lake before continuing up the valley towards Refuge Oulettes de Gaube.
Those not planning to push on to the refuge can also turn back here, though the second section is absolutely worth it. The walk from Pont d-Espagne to Lac de Gaube is just 4 km return and can be completed comfortably in 2 hours.
For anyone keen to experience this delightful scene without the walk, during peak season it’s also possible to take the Puntas Gondola and Gaube Chairlift to the plateau and walk the flat 15-minute route to the lake from there. Tickets start from €16 including parking. See details here.
You’ll find L’Hôtellerie du Lac de Gaube located here as well, a large bar and restaurant with an outdoor terrace that operates through summer and makes use of the exceptional setting.
I didn’t eat here myself, but the unfavourable reviews speak for themselves so I’d recommend bringing a packed lunch and snacks instead.
Pushing on, the rocky trail swings right and traces the edge of the lake.
On the far side, green pastures strewn with trees and carves by several small streams sprawl across the valley floor.
It’s easy to lose the trail here and many hikers end up hopping across the tiny threads of water wandering exactly where they went wrong.
Instead of veering left onto the grass, stick right and navigate across the boulder field, following the small red and white markers as you go.
Back on the proper path, the trail heads between the trees on the approach to a green metal bridge which crosses the river beside an unnamed waterfall.
For the next 1.4 km, the rubble trail climbs more steeply up the left side of the valley, taking in the craggy cliffs opposite, until you reach the heaving Cascade Esplumouse.
The gleaming white ribbon that was visible from the distant shores of Lac de Gaube, this powerful waterfall is 90 m long and cascades across the rocks over three distinct levels.
Arriving to the top of the rise where the river tumbles over the rock face, you’ll be greeted by splendid views overlooking Lac de Gaube behind you and towards the dramatic peaks ahead.
Sticking close to river now, the trail flattens out and continues up the valley towards the smaller Cascade Darré Splumouse, crossing back over to the opposite bank about half way along.
Swinging to the right away from the falls, the trail climbs to the next rise, emerging onto a vast grassy plateau that sprawls across the valley floor.
From here, the magnificent Vignemale massif looms directly ahead, a scarf of cracked and crinkled ice wrapped around its base.
Crossing over a couple more streams and sections of marsh, you’ll reach a wooden bridge and obvious path that cuts across the river and veers off to the left about three quarters of the way up the valley.
Don’t cross over though, continue straight ahead, sticking on the right bank of the river.
The rocky clusters that lie strewn across the meadows here also play host to numerous marmots. Keep an eye out to catch a glimpse of them foraging across the plains, lumbering between burrows or sunning themselves on a rock.
Beyond the grasslands, you’ll arrive at the final ascent which twists back and forth, bringing you up and over the crest to the Refuge Oulettes de Gaube at the base of the immense Vignemale massif.
Turn left over the bridge for the refuge or continue straight ahead across the river and into the meadows for a closer look at the epic mountains beyond.
At the foot of this impressive amphitheatre of peaks, comprised of Petit Vignemale, Pointe Chausenque and Grand Vignemale among others, with the glaciers of Oulettes and Petit Vignemale cascading across its facade, it’s hard to imagine a better place to settle in for a well-deserved lunch.
Soaring to 3,298 m, Grand Vignemale is the highest peak in the French Pyrenees, though perhaps more astonishing is knowing that just on the other side of the summit lies the massive Ossoue Glacier, also the largest in the French Pyrenees which extends for more than 1 km across the massif.
Though it can feel near impossible to tear yourself away from such a humbling and ever-changing arena, where clouds dance across the peaks, thrusting them into blinding sunlight before consuming them in a moody grey sky, after drinking it all in, head back the way you came.
With the entire return journey being either flat or downhill, you can expect it to be slightly faster than the way up.
For those planning a multi-day trip, there are several options to extend your hike which are outlined in the next section.
Those keen to extend their adventure will be glad to know there are trails climbing steeply up either side the valley which lead further into the the high alpine plateau.
On the left, the trail continues past the refuge, cutting across the slope and up a series of switchbacks to bring you to the Lacs d’Arraillé at 2,485 m which lie nestled beneath the Col d’Arraillé (1.5 hours from Refuge Oulettes).
Continuing across the plateau, the path leads to Lac d’Estom and the Lutour Valley, or the Vallon de Labas and Lacs d’Labas and d’Glace tucked away in the upper reaches of the valley.
In the other direction, the path ascends to the pass of Hourquette d’Ossoue, located 2.5 hours from the refuge.
From here, you can reach the summit of Petit Vignemale or head over the ridge to Refuge de Bayssellance. This provides access to the Vallée d’Ossoue and the Labas Lakes, creating a circular route with the trail mentioned above.
Alternatively, heading right from the base of Vignemale will bring you to Col des Mulets on the Spanish border ridge at 2,594 m. Swinging around the top of the Ara Valley, the trail brings you back into France at Col d’Arratille (2.5 hours from Refuge Oulettes).
From here, the trail descends through the Arratille Valley, past a series of beautiful alpine lakes to the Refuge Wallon-Marcadau where the rivers of Batans and Arratille join to form Gave du Marcadau.
This trail can be used to create a challenging 25 km circular route for Lac de Gaube, returning to Pont d’Espagne via the Marcadau Valley.
Alternatively, the refuge makes it possible to venture further up the valley to the wild and remote plateau of the Lacs de Cambalès.
The Pyrenees National Park is one of the most popular summer hiking destinations in France, and the Pont d’Espagne and Lac de Gaube are among its biggest draws, alongside the famous Cirque du Gavarnie and the Pic du Midi d’Ossau.
As an easier trail compared to most others in the region, accompanied by the added accessibility afforded by the cable car, Lac de Gaube is also available to a wide range of visitors eager to enjoy the spectacular scenery.
During the peak summer season (July and August), the Lac du Gaube hike is an extremely popular choice and you can expect this area to be swarming with day hikers. Getting an early start will help avoid much of the crowds, as will venturing further into the mountains.
I’d also recommend visiting during June or September instead when the trails are much quieter, though do still get busy.
The trail from Pont d’Espagne to Refuge Oulettes via Lac de Gaube forms part of the GR10, a long-distance trail which crosses the length of the French Pyrenees and is well-worn and well-marked.
Much of this trail follows a wide, obvious path with regular trail markings – a neat red and white stripe – with yellow hiking signs fixed at all major intersections.
The only two areas where the route may be unclear are at the junction near Lac de Huat and over the boulder field at the southern end of Lac de Gaube. Keep a close eye out for the signs and markings to guide you.
Cauterets is the gateway to one of the premier destinations for hiking in the Pyrenees and provides easy access to some of the region’s most famous sites.
Unsurprisingly, it’s particularly popular with local tourists who may visit for a week or more during summer to enjoy the many fantastic opportunities for outdoor adventure.
As such, accommodation in this small town can book up well in advance during peak season so be sure to make a reservation early to avoid missing out or having to stay in one of the larger towns further afield.
Summer bookings for the mountain refuges usually open in late winter or spring.
While food and drinks are available at L’Hôtellerie du Lac de Gaube and Hotellerie du Pont d’Espagne, neither receive a good rap online. Refuge Oulletes also serves meals during peak season and has more favourable reviews.
For those wishing to self cater, there is a small Carrefour Montagne in the centre of Cauterets and another located 2 km from town on the main road. Thankfully, this one is also open for a few hours on Sundays during peak season.
Otherwise the large Carrefour Market in Argelès-Gazost is better supplied with more reasonable prices.
For local specialty products, try Les Halles de Cauterets where you’ll find cheeses and meats from the region, though these are on the pricier side.
Though I didn’t get the chance to enjoy a steaming hot soak during my visit, the thermal baths of Cauterets are one of the town’s biggest draws and would be a perfect way to sooth sore muscles after a few days in the mountains.
The two main bath houses in town are Les Thermes de Cauterets and Les Bains du Rocher.
Both offer modern indoor pool facilities fed by the naturally mineral-rich thermal water, with access to steam rooms, saunas and various wellness treatments.
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