Hiking Maja Jezerce, The Accursed Mountains’ Highest Peak

25 October 2024.

Maja Jezerce, the queen of the Accursed Mountains, is among the most spectacular and challenging hikes in the region. Discover everything you need to know to plan your visit.

Towering above Valbona Valley in the Albanian Alps National Park, Maja Jezercë is an absolute monster.

As the highest peak in the Accursed Mountains and the entire Dinaric Alps range and the second highest in Albania, scaling the steep, craggy summit which soars to 2,694 metres should not be underestimated.

But for intrepid hikers keen to tackle this challenging trail, the rewards are phenomenal, with views overlooking the vast wilderness of the entire range which sprawls across Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo.

To the east, the peak plunges sharply into the vast green swathe of Valbona Valley, while the spiky karst peaks of the Ropojana Valley pierce the sky to the west.

Bleak and barren, these dolomitic landscapes that dominate the upper mountain plateau are hardly the kind of place where you’d expect to find a remote alpine oasis, and yet Maja Jezerce is named for the collection of six picturesque lakes that lie hidden at the base of the peak and form Buni Jezerce, the Great Valley of Lakes.

Maja Jezercë is located near the mountainous border between Albania and Montenegro and is accessible via three different routes from Valbona or Theth in Albania, and Vusanje in Montenegro.

The route from Valbona (or Rragam) is the shortest and the most straightforward trail and the only option which can be comfortably completed in one day.

Though at 10 hours it’s a long, steep and challenging climb, with some technical sections toward the summit and is only recommended for fit and experienced hikers.

Admittedly, I was somewhat nervous about tackling this trail, especially solo, having found very little information online regarding the trail conditions and specific difficulties of the hike.

Having now completed a successful ascent, this comprehensive hiking guide covers everything I wish I had known beforehand and all the practical information you’ll need for climbing the formidable Maja Jezerce. It’s a long one, so grab a cuppa and settle in. 

There are three hiking routes for Maja Jezerce originating in Valbona or Theth in Albania, or Vusanje in Montenegro.

This trail is generally hiked out and back via the same route, however, with the appropriate border permits, it’s also possible to hike cross country between the different trailheads, such as from Vusanje to Valbona.

Distance   |   20 km / 13 km

Duration   |   12 hours / 10 hours

Elevation   |   996 m / 1,144 m to 2,694 m

Trailhead   |   Valbona  /  Rragam

—

On the Albanian side, the trail from Fusha e Gjesë in Valbona Valley (the end of the paved road) is the shortest and most straightforward hiking route for Maja Jezerce.

However, better is actually to start from Rragam, a tiny mountain settlement located 3.5 km further up the valley which will save around an hour of hiking each way on pebble road up the riverbed.

For those equipped with a tent, another popular option is to camp at Cafe Simoni which lies a further 1.7 km up the valley from Rragam. 

If starting from Valbona, it’s worth noting that the village sprawls on for many kilometres so be sure to factor this in when booking your accommodation for the hike.

It’s also possible to get a 4WD taxi between Valbona and Rragam to cut out the road walking and any guesthouse in the area will be able to arrange this for you.

This route is best completed as an out and back hike, though it’s also possible to begin from Valbona or Rragam and descend through Buni Jezerce towards Vusanje (you will need to secure a border permit for entering Montenegro), or return to Valbona via Buni Jezerce and Shelegeve Pass (Qafa e Shelegeves) which intersects with the trail for Rosni Peak. This is a challenging 24 km route with a second ascent to reach the pass after the lakes.

For my hike, I spent the night in Rragam and hiked to the peak and back in one day and then continued onto Valbona to spend the night. 

Distance   |   24 km

Duration   |   16 hours (recommended over two days)

Elevation   |   744 m to 2,694 m

Trailhead   |   Theth

—

Also on the Albanian side, the trail from Theth covers the first half of the Theth to Valbona hike via Valbona Pass before reaching the main intersection for Maja Jezerce above Cafe Simoni.

As an out and back hike, this trail is recommended over two days. In one day, you’ll simply run out of daylight.

For those carrying camping equipment, it’s possible to camp at Cafe Simoni or overnight at a guesthouse in Rragam and follow the same route as above coming up from Valbona.

That said, I did meet another hiker arriving from Theth who was planning to return via Jezerce Pass (Qafa i Jezerces) and Peja Pass (Qafa i Pejes).

Though I haven’t completed the middle section of this route through the Albanian Alps which is unmarked, I have hiked the first and last sections and imagine this would be an exceptionally long hike in one day – some 26 km and nearly 1,900 m of elevation gain.

Unless you are an exceedingly quick and confident hiker, I would still recommend breaking this into a two day adventure.

Distance   |   27 km  /  16 km

Duration   |   14 hours  /  9 hours

Elevation   |   992 m / 1,334 m to 2,694 m

Trailhead   |   Vusanje   /   Zastan

—

On the Montenegro side, the route from Vusanje is 13.5 km each way and is also recommended to be split over two days. A popular option is to hike to and camp at Katun Zastan, ascend to Maja Jezerce the following day and return directly to Vusanje.

Alternatively, shave off 2 to 3 hours of road walking each way by taking a 4WD taxi directly from Vusanje to the Zastan Plateau.

Most local guesthouses are able to arrange this, however, I was quoted a hefty €70 for the short trip so I’d recommend finding other hikers to share the cost with if you plan to use this option.

As mentioned above, it’s also possible to begin in Vusanje and hike via Maja Jezerce to Theth or Valbona, however it’s important to secure a border permit before setting out.

If you will be hiking across the border to Albania and returning to Montenegro in the same day, a permit is not required.

There are two main routes to reach Valbona – either by road or a combination of road and ferry.

Most visitors will start their visit to the Albanian Alps in the lovely lakeside town of Shkodra, however it’s also possible to arrive directly from Tirana.

From Tirana, it’s a 5 to 7 hour drive depending on which route you take, either through Kukës or via Pukë and Fierzë. Both have windy sections through the mountains and intersect at Bajram Curri for the final stretch to Valbona. There are also direct daily buses from Tirana to Bajram Curri. Check the timetable here.

Most popular though is to take the road and ferry option from Shkodra to Valbona via the beautiful Komani Lake.

Drive or take the bus from Shkodra to Koman, transfer onto the ferry from Koman to Fierze and then drive or take the bus for the final section to Valbona.

For those travelling by car, check the timetable and reserve tickets on the car ferry here. Keep in mind though that the boarding process, particularly in Koman with its increasing number of passengers, is very chaotic and would be a somewhat stressful experience.

For the bus, most guesthouses in Shkodra can arrange a combination bus/ferry ticket for you with pick up and drop off directly at your guesthouse.

Alternatively, minivans depart Shkodra daily at 6:45 a.m from in front of Hotel Rozafa. The combination ticket can be purchased on board and costs €26.

The entire journey takes 7 to 8 hours and, particularly in summer, be sure to bring plenty of water and prepare expect – sometimes up to an hour – in the heat at the changeover points.

As mentioned above, Valbona is spread out over many kilometres across the valley and location should be a key consideration when booking your accommodation, especially if you don’t have your own transport or are planning to begin your hike directly from the guesthouse.

I’d recommend spending a night in Rragam to save yourself a few hours of hiking on the day. Or, if you’re setting out from Valbona, consider arranging an early morning taxi to Rragam instead.

Guesthouse Lindi   |   I stayed at this simple guesthouse in Rragam which offers a private room in the family home for hikers, surrounded by wild plum trees and corn fields with a beautiful outlook towards the surrounding peaks. Though facilities are very basic, there’s a brand new outside bathroom available for guests and the host family are lovely.

Meals and a lunch packet are included, though comparatively they are simpler and slightly more expensive than what you’ll find in Valbona. Contact via WhatsApp.

Bujtina Valbonë  |  During my Peaks of the Balkans trek, I stayed at this beautiful mountain chalet which offers modern and cosy private rooms that feel that little bit more luxurious than your average guesthouse – a wonderful treat after a long day on trail. Most rooms have mountain views and breakfast is included. The only small downside is that it sits right next to the enormous resort which is currently under construction.

The guesthouse is located 3.5 km from Fusha e Gjesë so I’d recommend driving or getting a taxi to the trailhead, but it is perfectly located for other trails such as Rosni Peak and Prosllopit Pass. Check rates and availability here.

Guesthouse Kol Gjoni   |  I stayed at this charming guesthouse on my very first visit to Valbona back in 2018, and it appears to still be going strong. Located 2 km from Fusha e Gjesë with a beautiful location in the valley, this property has expanded considerably and boasts excellent food alongside clean and comfortable rooms. All meals are included and reservations are essential. Contact via Facebook.

Hotel Margjeka   |   One of the top-rated options in Valbona, Hotel Margjeka is about as close to Fusha e Gjesë as you can get. Guests love the views, friendly staff and excellent location. It’s a popular choice and books up in well in advance, especially during summer. Check rates and availability here.

Vusanje is around a 3-hour drive from Podgorica following the new A1 highway to Matesovo before turning onto the winding mountain road towards Plav and onwards to Vusanje.

By public transport, there are several direct buses from Podgorica Bus Station for Plav and Gusinje each day – €13 / 4.5 hours, plus €1 baggage fee to stow your luggage. Check the timetable here.

From Gusinje, you can either hike the remaining 6 km to Vusanje or take a taxi (around €15).

We contacted a local driver via WhatsApp (Radončić Sajo / +382 69 334 748) who was recommended by the tourist information office. Otherwise, there are plenty of taxis available in Plav and you’ll often see at least one hovering around the bus station.

Compared to Valbona, Vusanje is much more compact with most guesthouses concentrated near the Grlja Waterfall where the trail begins.

Guesthouse Kollata   |   Located just 700 m from the trailhead in Vusanje, I stayed at this simple, family-run guesthouse on the Peaks of the Balkans trek. Private rooms in the main house have a shared bathroom, while the garden chalet has private facilities. Hearty meals are available and served on the terrace with lovely views towards the Ropojana Valley. Check rates and availability here.

Riverside Guesthouse   |   Set about 2 km further from the trail down the valley, Riverside has a beautiful setting with spacious rooms that include private bathrooms. Guests gush about the food and helpful hosts who can also arrange a jeep transfer to Zastan for those keen to avoid the road walking on the way out of Vusanje. Check rates and availability.

—

TOP TIP  |   As you travel up the Ropojana Valley between Vusanje and Zastan you’ll enter the magical Prokletije National Park which incurs a daily entrance fee of €3 per person or €13.50 for an annual pass which covers all national parks in Montenegro. Ensure you bring cash.

Theth can be easily reached by car from Tirana (4 hours) or Shkodra (2 hours). Once in the mountains though, the drive is wonderfully scenic so factor in some extra time to stop and enjoy the views along the way.

By public transport, you’ll need to pass through Shkodra for which there are frequent buses from Tirana.

Most guesthouses in town can arrange transport for you to Theth with pick up and drop off directly at your guesthouse.

Alternatively, minivans depart Shkodra daily at 7 a.m. from in front of Hotel Rozafa. The trip takes 2 to 3 hours and tickets can be purchased on board for €10.

Similar to Valbona, Theth extends for several kilometres alongside the river. Both options recommended below are close to the famous church and less than 2 km from the trailhead.

Bujtina Tinari   |  One of my favourite guesthouses in the area, top-rated Tinari is an absolute gem. I stayed in the cute and cosy top floor room with an ensuite and a balcony that overlooked the valley. Dinner here is exceptional with tiny plates of delicious, traditional food that just seem to keep coming – perfect after a long day of hiking. Highly recommend! Check rates and availability here.

Bujtina Pllumi   |  Another highly rated option in Theth, Pllumi is located on the hillside behind Tinari and receives rave reviews about the delicious home-cooked meals that use all local produce, wonderful mountain views, comfortable rooms and friendly hosts. Check rates and availability here.

When planning for this hike, I found very little recent practical information on the trail beyond the seemingly universal blanket statement that it was ‘challenging’.

Most daunting was the number of accounts I read of other hikers’ attempts being thwarted by a combination of difficult terrain and poor weather, though there were limited details about exactly what the terrain was like or what made it particularly hard, aside from the duration.

So, what makes this one so challenging?

Maja Jezerce is rightfully classified as a difficult hike – certainly among the most demanding in the region – and it should not be taken lightly, both in terms of duration, terrain and isolation. This one is for experienced hikers only.

That said, if you’re a fit and confident hiker, it’s a fantastic adventure and will certainly be a memorable experience in the mountains.

Firstly, while the trail may not be specifically long in terms of distance, it does involve between 1,500m and 1,900m of elevation gain depending on which route you take. Coupled with a minimum 10 hours of hiking, both physical and mental endurance are essential.

For the Valbona / Rragam ascent, the first two thirds of the hike are along straightforward rocky trail that climb through the valley on a moderate to steep incline that is comparable to many other trails in the national park.

As you enter the bleak and craggy landscapes of the upper mountain plateau, it is the final 2 km push to the summit where things become more arduous and your pace is likely to slow considerably.

Here, the narrow trail passes through long sections of rockfall, crosses over exposed rocky ledges, requires clambering over large boulders, navigating around lingering snowdrifts, clambering up steep, slippery scree fields on all fours, and, perhaps most intimidating, up a 2 to 3 metre rock climb with chain support.

Along some of the rockier sections, the trail also disappears entirely requiring navigation between cairns and way markings until the path reappears. In poor weather or limited visibility, this would be near impossible without the help of a map.

Once on the summit ridge, it’s a rocky 200m upward scramble to the large cross that marks the peak.

Despite the short distance, this final section requires plenty of patience and takes almost as long as the earlier stages of the trail combined.

And that’s just the ascent. In many ways, the return journey is just as taxing.

Now, none of this is to put you off, but given the trail is remote and sees very little foot traffic, it’s important to be prepared and know what to expect, particularly if you’re someone that is nervous around heights.

I occasionally count myself in this category and while I found this hike manageable, I definitely needed to give myself a few pep talks along the way.

As for the route from Vusanje, I met a pair of other hikers on the summit who had climbed from the Montenegro side but had experience with both routes and confirmed that the trail from Vusanje was the more challenging option with more rock scrambling and climbing required. Having seen the landscapes from afar, this doesn’t sound surprising.

Broadly speaking, the trail to Maja Jezerce can be divided into four distinct sections based on terrain and orientation.

Officially, the trail begins from Fusha e Gjese, located at the end of the paved road through Valbona Valley, but starting from Rragam instead will cut out much of the first section.

At Fusha e Gjesë, you really can’t miss the yellow hiking sign that indicates the 7 hour journey to Maja Jezerce, the only black trail on the list.

Veering onto the white pebble road that meanders across the dried riverbed, the trail climbs gently for 3.5 km, flanked by the steep walls of the glacial valley before heading into lush pine forest. 

As you approach Rragam, a smattering of cafes and guesthouses that marks this final settlement, the road splits towards the upper and lower sections of the village and rejoins a few hundred metres further up.

If you’re staying at a guesthouse here, these are all listed on the signpost at the intersection to direct you where you need to go.

For the peak, stick to the right fork which is the most direct route.

From here, the trail climbs more steeply and narrows along a dusty trail up a series of switchbacks to Simoni Cafe – a popular drink stop draped in a brown leaf canopy and the last water source of the hike.

Just 600 m further along, you’ll reach the next signposted intersection where you’ll leave the busy Theth to Valbona trail behind, along with the majority of the area’s foot traffic.

Veering away from the steep wall that climbs towards the Valbona Pass, at the intersection, take the right fork straight up the riverbed.

This guides you into a new section of the valley, following a dried up tributary and the ancient spring source of the Valbona River.

Initially, the path is somewhat faint amongst the sea of white rocks, but the red and white trail markers guide the way.

I mistakenly continued too far up the river after losing sight of the markers and managed to rejoin the trail higher up, but if you stick close to the right side of the river bed, there is a small path that leads into the trees just 200 m from the intersection.

Keep an eye out for a large boulder with a striped trail marker pointing to the right and topped with two small cairns and behind this, the circle bullseye marker indicating the forest trail.

From here, the way is clear and hugs the edge of the river bed, climbing higher through the forest as you ascend the valley and move above the tree line.

After 1km of gradual incline up the river, the trail comes over a crest to reveal the rocky landscapes beyond, a nod at what’s to come in the latter stages of the hike.

Climbing higher, the views are increasingly spectacular, fringed by rugged peaks that tumble into thick forest.

Onwards, the path pitches sharply to the right, climbing the grassy hillside via a series of tight switchbacks. It may be short, but this is one of the steepest sections of the hike.

It’s a hard slog with some large steps thrown in to test those quad muscles.

After about 400 m, the trail emerges on a flat grassy ledge that runs along the upper section of the valley with Maja Poplukës towering up ahead.

Veering to the right, the trail enters a narrow ravine that leads toward a large rocky pyramid.

The terrain is increasingly rocky here with the remaining clusters of grass and alpine wildflowers beginning to fade out.

Keep an eye out for the narrow rock passage that passes beside a massive crevasse and peak over the edge for a vertigo inducing drop into the void. Even in late summer, this gap is one of the few parts of the trail where snow still lingers.

Crossing over a small saddle, you’ll arrive back on the eastern face of the ridge where the mighty peak of Maja Jezerce is finally revealed, around 3 hours from Rragam.

Venturing into new territory, moonlike landscapes dominate the mountain plateau, falling into steep grassy slopes that spill into the Valbona Valley.

From here, it’s just 2 km and around 350m of elevation to the summit, however this is where the terrain starts to become more challenging. 

Swinging left, the trail clings to the edge of the steep craggy hillside and remains mostly level through this section.

Initially the way is clear and flat, though it does become progressively more rocky and uneven as you progress.

In some areas, the path isn’t always obvious, but there will always be a trail marker to indicate the way forward.

There are two short exposed sections that require you to shimmy along a very narrow ledge beside a sharp drop of a few metres. They’re only around 2 or 3 metres long, but do require concentration and sure footedness, particularly on the way down when fatigue will be starting to set in.

You’ll also need to navigate down a short, steep slope of loose rock and scramble across some large boulders.

Follow the contours of the mountain around two large bends and at the final corner, you’ll see a narrow trail up ahead traversing the neck which guides you into the rockfall section that marks the final push to the summit.

The final stage is the most challenging of the entire route and it can be very slow going. In fact, this final kilometre took me around an hour to complete.

Crossing the neck, the landscapes fall away sharply on either side and extend into the austere peaks that puncture the high alpine plateau.

Rugged and remote, this place showcases a desolate kind of beauty, a world apart from the lush forests and turquoise waterways that colour the valleys below. 

Initially, the trail is clear and mostly flat, cutting a narrow path through the rockfall across the steep right slope of the basin towards the base of Jezerce up ahead.

After 500m you’ll arrive to a large boulder field where any discernible trail disappears and the cairns and way markers will be your only guide.

Follow the cairns to the top of an enormous flat boulder on the left to help get your bearings.

From here, the trail markers can be difficult to make out amongst the sea of rocks before you – the search for red and white feels a little like a game of Where’s Wally – but look carefully and you should be able to pick out at least two or three on the opposite slope signaling the way forward.

It’s worth noting that this was the only section of the hike for me where there was still snow remaining across the trail.

I followed vague a path to the right and scuttled along a sketchy, exposed ledge that crossed above the snowdrift and led me to the next marker. 

However, this route felt really dodgy and on the way down I instead stuck to the left of the snow and clambered over the larger, more stable rocks which felt safer and more manageable. I’d suggest doing this on the way up as well.

Onwards, the trail climbs steeply up a slope of loose rocky scree towards a cliff face on the left.

Personally, this was one of the tougher sections of the hike with some parts of the trail providing a deep layer of rocks that gave some support under foot, and others where one step would have you sliding back down, wiping out any progress you’d made. 

After 250 m of steep scrambling, you’ll arrive at the next and, for me, most nerve-wracking challenge – the cliff climb and cable.

Keep an eye out for the rock pillar embellished with a large red and white striped marker – you can see and aim for the fresh paint from far below, alongside a few faded markers from years gone by.

If you look closely on maps.me, this point is marked with a star and labelled as ‘metal cable. 10 metres long’.

For those that are nervous around heights, this section might make you particularly uncomfortable, but after this, the worst is over. That is, until you return for the descent.

Now, while the cable itself is 10 metres long, it’s only really needed for around 2 m of climbing in the middle. I had to rely on it heavily to hoist myself onto the next ledge (and to get down again) but the rest I found easier to just scramble up with a loose hold on the cable for support. 

For those hiking with large backpacks, this section is particularly difficult with a heavy load on your back. 

With the cable behind you, you’ll emerge onto a steep rock shelf peppered with clumps of grass which brings you onto the summit ridge in just a few minutes.

From here, the summit marker springs into view ahead – a large metal cross – and it’s just a 220m scramble to the top.

Though calling it a ‘path’ would be generous, there are some tiny sections of trail here that scuttle along the right side of the ridge. However, this final stretch mostly involves good old clambering over the rocks.

Some sections are somewhat exposed with a gradual drop off, but there are stable rocks and decent handholds to grip onto and it generally feels secure.

Finally, you’ll scale the last of the rocks to arrive at the summit. Phew!

After a tough climb, the magnificent views are your reward, surrounded by the sweeping Valbona Valley and wildly impressive peaks of the Ropojana Valley. Even the smattering of red roofs that mark Gusinje are visible from way up here.

The recommended hiking time for Maja Jezerce is 5 hours each way from Rragam and 6 to 7 hours from Valbona which seems accurate with breaks. I took 4.5 hours to the summit from Rragam, including many photo stops, and enjoyed a half hour break up top before heading back past Rragam and onto Valbona.

For those pushing on to Buni Jezerce, you’ll see the obvious trail markers continuing along the ridge line on the other side of the summit.

While the uphill climb to Maja Jezerce is challenging, in many ways the descent is just as difficult.

After many hours on trail, navigating the terrain on the way down is as much about mental stamina as it is physical fitness. Particularly for the more technical sections, only go as far as you’re comfortable coming back from.

Between June and August, the hours of daylight fluctuate from around 13 to 15 hours.

With a minimum 10 hours required for this route, ensure you leave early enough to complete the hike, or at the very least be back off the mountain by the time the sun starts to sink towards the horizon.

Also keep in mind that most guesthouses only begin their breakfast service from around 6:30 or 7 a.m.

Otherwise, it’s well worth considering breaking up the journey over two days, or using a taxi to cut out any road walking where possible.

Much of the route to Maja Jezerce is along rocky uneven trail, with sections that are both steep and slippery or require plenty of rock scrambling.

Solid footwear with good grip is essential. Something with decent ankle support is also a good idea. I use and love my Scarpa Hiking Boots and LOWA Hiking Boots.

Given the long, steep descent, carrying hiking poles is also a godsend for this trail. I use the Mountain Designs Trekking Poles (for Aussies) or Black Diamond Trekking Poles.

At the time of visiting in August 2024, the trail from Valbona was mostly very well marked with what appeared to be fresh paint for the entire route. The red and white triple stripe or bullseye are used for this trail.

In general, the path is clear and easy to follow until about halfway through the rockfall section where the trail disappears completely until you reach the steep scree slope above.

I would highly recommend having an online map downloaded on your phone to help with navigation. I always use maps.me, a free offline hiking app, where this trail is clearly marked. From Vusanje on the Montenegro side, the trail is also marked on Google Maps.

Cafe Simoni is the last water source on the trail from Valbona where you’ll find several spouts of icy water from which to fill up.

The upper plateau is dry and remote so ensure you bring enough water to last for at least 10 to 12 hours of hiking. More if you’re planning to overnight on the mountain.

I carried 2 litres of water which was sufficient, however it wasn’t particularly hot during my hike so I’d recommend taking more for warmer days.

From Vusanje, the last water source is in the village itself or the stunning spring of Oko Skakavice. This dries up by autumn so is not reliable for those visiting later in the season.

As the highest point in the region, Jezerce is the last place you want to get caught out in a storm. The challenging terrain and navigational quirks could also prove extremely dangerous in poor visibility or wet weather.

Being one of the wettest corners of Europe, rainfall here is fairly common, as is a persistent blanket of cloud that clings to the surrounding peaks.

This may burn off in the heat of the day revealing a beautiful halo of blue sky or deteriorate into a violent thunderstorm. I’ve seen both up here and the latter is no fun.

—

TOP TIP   |   In case of emergencies and to keep updated on changing conditions, stay connected in these remote mountains with an e-sim. I’ve personally used Airalo on several multi-day hiking trips in Europe and would recommend them.

I’d recommend downloading the free Weather Radar App that provides a reasonably accurate storm radar, including lightening and rain. For the mountains, I find this far more reliable than the default weather apps.

Officially, the hiking season in the Accursed Mountains is May to October, however thick snow can linger across the high mountain plateau well into summer. Therefore, late June through September is really the best time to hike Maja Jezerce.

Regardless, it’s important to check the conditions on the trail before setting out. Most locals will be able to tell you if there was much snowfall over winter and what to expect.

* This post includes affiliate links and any purchases made through these links will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. *