20 January 2025.
Planning to hike Medjed and Terzin Bogaz? This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about hiking one of Durmitor National Park’s most challenging trails.
Rising from a forested belt above the serene figure-eight shaped Black Lake, the rocky dome of Medjed makes a formidable backdrop and has become emblematic of Durmitor National Park.
Anyone who has visited the area will be will be familiar with this iconic mountain, though you may not necessarily know its name.
Despite this being my third visit to Durmitor, it wasn’t until a fellow hiker recommended the trail that I even considered this hulking monolith as a possibility.
The peak is comprised of a narrow ridge that connects the twin summits, Veliki Medjed (also spelled Meðed) and Mali Medjed, which translate to big and little bear. Adorable titles that belie the immense challenge required to conquer them.
Vertical rock climbs, steep ascents through loose scree fields, scuttling along exposed craggy ridges, and a long arduous day of hiking in the blistering sun are all part of the adventure.
Beyond Medjed, rising from the same rocky spine, is Terzin Bogaz, another distinct peak that makes a natural addition to the trail for those keen to prolong their adrenaline fix.
Despite being just a 500 metre detour to reach the summit, it holds one of the more difficult sections of the entire trail with further rock climbing and exposed ledges in store.
This one is not for the faint-hearted and recommended for experienced hikers only, but for those keen to take on the challenge, it’s a fantastic adventure and the views across the entire Durmitor massif are phenomenal.
The circular trail begins from the Black Lake and ascends to Mali Medjed at 2,217 m, Veliki Medjed at 2,285 m and Terzin Bogaz at 2,306 m before descending to Katun Lokvice and continuing down the valley back to the Black Lake.
Admittedly, this is one of the tougher hikes I’ve done and is certainly among the most difficult trails in Durmitor National Park.
My visit also happened to coincide with a brutal summer heatwave and Saharan dust plume which swept over the Balkans and covered the mountains in an oppressively hot haze which did nothing to help on the grueling ascent.
Whether you plan to hike Medjed, Terzin Bogaz or both, this guide has you covered with all the details to plan your hike.
It’s important to note that there are two key routes for Medjed and Terzin Bogaz.
The hiking sign at the Black Lake directs you to the left via Struga which ascends the south face of Mali Medjed. I haven’t hiked this route myself but read several reports of the poor trail conditions and decided there was no need to make the hike any tougher than it needed to be.
Instead, I’d recommend taking the alternate option which veers right and scales Mali Medjed from the north.
For this route, you’ll need to follow the signs for Bobotov Kuk and Katun Lokvice until you’re past the lake and through the forest. Here you’ll reach a major intersection where the trail forks and there are signs indicating the way to Mali Medjed.
Ignore the signs for Terzin Bogaz (unless you’re only hiking this peak) as these will take you directly to the summit and skip out Medjed altogether.
All three peaks can be summited using either ascent route, however, if that all sounds like too much, it’s certainly possible to separate Mali and Veliki Medjed from Terzin Bogaz and complete either section as a standalone hike.
All options begin from the trailhead at the Black Lake and are rated as difficult hikes.
Mali + Veliki Medjed Hiking Details
Distance | 11 km
Duration | 7.5 hours
Elevation Gain | 956 m
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Medjed + Terzin Bogaz Hiking Details
Distance | 12 km
Duration | 9 hours
Elevation Gain | 1,052 m
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Terzin Bogaz Hiking Details
Distance | 12 km
Duration | 7 hours
Elevation Gain | 865 m
The trails for both Medjed and Terzin Bogaz begin from the Black Lake, located 3 km from Žabljak which acts as the gateway to Durmitor National Park.
From Podgorica, it’s a 2.5 hours drive to Žabljak along mostly new and often winding mountain roads.
From Žabljak, continue west through town to one of the two main parking areas for the Black Lake or Crno Jezero – located here and here. Both parking zones attract at €2 fee in addition to the Durmitor National Park entry fee.
In summer, these can get extremely busy and people will park haphazardly along the roadside extending all the way back into town so I’d recommend arriving early in the day to snag a spot.
From the parking areas, continue along the paved walkway which will bring you to the shore of the Black Lake where you’ll find the large information board which highlights the various hiking trails in the area.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Podgorica is the best place to pick up your rental car with numerous options available from the airport and downtown area.
I recommend using Discover Cars who offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
There is no public transport within Žabljak or Durmitor National Park but you’ll find a number of taxis in town, often located around the bus station, which can transport you short distances within the local region, including to the Black Lake.
To reach the area, there are several buses a day from Podgorica to Žabljak. The trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs €10 to €12. See timetables here.
Access to Durmitor National Park attracts a €5 entry fee per person per day, or you can purchase an annual pass for €13.50 which covers all national parks in Montenegro for a calendar year.
If you plan to spend more than two days in Durmitor, it’s well worth getting the annual pass which can be purchased on arrival, or online in advance here.
There is a national park check point at the entrance to the Black Lake. However, when visiting outside of the peak summer season, I often found the control points to be unmanned, particularly when starting your hike in the early morning.
Žabljak and the gorgeous surrounding countryside makes an ideal base for exploring the various sections of Durmitor National Park. You’ll find a variety of accommodation available to suit any budget, from cosy guesthouses to remote mountain cabins.
Hostel Hikers Den | For budget travellers, look no further than this homely hostel located right in the heart of town which offers both dormitory and private rooms, a communal kitchen and knowledgeable owners. It also consistently takes home the prize for best hostel in Montenegro. Check rates and availability here.
Srna Chalet | A lovely, wallet-friendly guesthouse located just a short walk from Žabljak’s main square, Srna Chalet offers a range of private rooms with a shared bathroom in a large wooden house. The host is super helpful and knowledgeable on the region, and there’s also a guest kitchen onsite. Check rates and availability here.
Spruce Hill Village | With a stunning mountain setting just 10 minutes from Žabljak, Spruce Hill Village boasts a collection of charming self-contained chalets that are perfect for those eager to escape to the countryside. Guests love the warm hospitality and traditional breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Casa di Pino Eco Lodge | For a touch of luxury, Casa di Pino is an excellent option boasting modern, comfortable rooms, friendly staff, a great breakfast and sauna to melt away those tired muscles. Located within walking distance from town. Check rates and availability here.
4.1 km | 3 hours | 788 m gain
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Setting off to the right of the information panel along a wide path, the trail skirts around the edge of the Black Lake with the quintessential view of Medjed as its powerful backdrop.
Look closely at the right side of the rocky spine that cuts through the dome’s centre and you’ll notice a small intent that leads to a notch in the peak. This will be your route to the summit.
After 500m, veer right to leave the Black Lake Circuit and then left across a wooden bridge that guides you over a small stream and into the forest. At the intersection you’ll see a large hand-painted sign labelled with Meðed and Katun Lokvice.
Once you enter the forest, a placard for route 101 and the bullseye symbol embellishing a tree confirm you’re on the right track.
As is the case with almost every hike that originates at the Black Lake, the trail ascends gradually for the next 45 minutes through dense pine forest along a well-used trail often carpeted in leaf litter and wandering roots.
After 1.7 km, you’ll begin to catch glimpses of the limestone cliffs towering ahead before emerging above the tree line.
Here lies the intersection for Durmitor’s famous ice cave, Ledena Pecina, and 150 metres further along, you’ll reach the main fork where the routes for Bobotov Kuk and Medjed split.
Leaving the main stream of foot traffic behind, take the left trail and continue over a flat grassy stretch speckled in spring wildflowers before beginning the steep and grueling ascent to Mali Medjed.
After 800 m, a section of rockfall drapes across the sharp flank of the peak and the way forward is not completely clear. Stick to the left of the scree and you’ll find some faded trail markers to help guide you.
Onwards, the rocky scramble begins, with the trail pitching up sharply and scuttling higher through the gully that was visible from back down at the lake.
The route is near vertical in parts, requiring you to clamber up grass banks and craggy walls to reach the top of the ridge.
It’s slow and tough going, taking around half an hour to cover the final 200 metres.
Chamois which frequent these karst landscapes make light work of the steep slopes, clopping elegantly and expertly across the rocky cliffs, seemingly unfazed by the sheer drop that lies beneath their feeble perch.
Catch your breath on the way up by taking in the magnificent view – this is truly one of the best vantage points of the Black Lake, where the distinct two shades of the teal figure eight are clearly visible.
In the distance, Žabljak sprawls into the verdant grasslands of Jezerska Površ, the plateau of lakes, which tumbles into the vast abyss of Tara Canyon.
Scaling the final rocky channel, you’ll emerge onto the ridge line of mighty Medjed where the southern route ascending from Struga also arrives.
Head right to continue up the spine to the summit of Mali Medjed, the not so little, ‘little bear’.
Though there are plenty of technical sections to come, dominated by cables, exposed ridges and rocky corridors, I personally found the final section of this steep ascent to be one of the toughest bits of the entire trail.
The summit of Mali Medjed makes an excellent place for a well-deserved break with the immense Durmitor massif extending behind you and the perfect pyramid of Savin Kuk dominating the southern skyline.
1 km | 1 hour | 75 m gain
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Veliki Medjed is actually made up of two separate summits – sjeverni and južni, north and south – which lie 250 metres apart and have just a 2 metre difference in altitude.
Smattered with trees, I like to think of these as the two furry ears of the big bear.
Looking across from Mali Medjed, the route forward is clearly visible, crossing a distinct rocky hump and climbing sharply up the grassy spine opposite before swinging left to Veliki Medjed (sjeverni vrh) at 2,287 m which marks the highest point of the Medjed massif and finally the southern summit.
Despite being just a kilometre, this stretch is slow going and requires careful and confident footing across the exposed rocky sections.
Setting off along the ridge, navigate down the rubble slope to reach the rocky bulge where you’ll find the first set of cables.
For most of the way, there is a clear path to follow along the southern rock face, albeit with a sharp drop off, where the cables are secured for added support.
Towards the end of the hump, the cables cross over the ridge where you’ll need to scramble down the rock face to reach the base of the grassy hill.
Far below, the triangular red rooftops of Katun Lokovice pepper the valley, where a web of hiking trails fan out in all directions.
Onwards, the trail climbs steadily for the next 600 metres, a gleaming white thread carved across the grassy slope, skirting around a pair of smaller summits and pushing through clumps of scraggly, low-lying trees to the northern peak of Veliki Medjed.
Peering over the western face, rugged cliffs tumble sharply into the valley below and climb into the distinct pinnacle of Bobotov Kuk, the highest peak in Durmitor National Park.
As the day marches on, you can often see a growing number of hikers crowding across its bald cap.
Crossing the short distance to the southern summit is not as straightforward as it may have looked from back at Mali Medjed and the terrain quickly becomes more challenging.
The trail descends slightly and, guided by cables, scuttles alongside the rock face and through further clusters of spiky dwarf mountain pines, before crossing the ridge onto the exposed western face where a narrow ravine feeds into the valley.
Again with the support of cables, the trail pitches sharply down, before ascending a rough rocky track that scurries beneath a sheer slab of rock and finally emerges at the southern peak of Veliki Medjed.
Surrounded by Durmitor’s highest mountains, this rocky perch provides a superb panoramic vantage point, framed by the impressive ridge line that spans between Savin Kuk and Šljeme, and the dramatic peaks of Terzin Bogaz, Bobotov Kuk, Bezimeni vrh and Planinica.
Looking back, the rugged undulating form of Medjed rises up, like a gnarled prehistoric reptile.
1 km | 1 hour | 90 m gain
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Ahead, the trail descends along a narrow spine to the base of Terzin Bogaz.
Low slung pylons connected by cables are fixed to the ridge to guide you down the most exposed section before the trail disappears into a pine grove that cascades across the slope.
Through the trees, you’ll arrive at the Velika Previja saddle which marks a major intersection of the route.
Having seen just one other hiker on my way across the Medjed massif, I was surprised to meet plenty of other people hovering around this junction.
Having opted for the more straightforward direct route to Terzin Bogaz, they were now enjoying a hard-earned lunch break in the shade after conquering the summit.
Push on through the trees and you’ll find a large, freshly painted rock indicating the way to Terzin Bogaz now located just 500 metres away.
Veer right up a steep rocky path and you’ll soon arrive at the ridge line that will guide you the rest of the way to the summit.
Here, you’ll meet one of the most challenging sections of the hike – a near vertical rock climb and exposed traverse.
A cable is fixed to the cliff, but there are plenty of decent foot and hand holds which I personally found to be the better option for the 3 or so metre climb.
Cables are also secured along the rocky spine, however they barely come up to knee height when pulled so are really just there to steady you and for peace of mind.
Up top, you’ll return to a normal stretch of trail which brings you to the spectacular summit of Terzin Bogaz.
Rising sharply to 2,306 m amidst a sea of austere peaks, this marks the highest point of the trail and an incredible end point to an epic hike through Durmitor National Park.
The summit is a spectacular place to enjoy your lunch surrounded by a panorama of mountains, but some hikers also prefer to scale back down the ridge in search of a stolen pocket of shade afforded by the stunted trees that carpet the saddle.
The sun up here can be brutally hot after all.
5.9 km | 3 hours | 84 m gain
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After conquering the three peaks, both majestic and demanding in equal measures, the return journey is thankfully almost all downhill, though there are still some gentle climbs and sections of challenging terrain in store.
Make your way off the summit and clamber back down the rock face to the proper path and weave your way through the shrubbery to return to the saddle.
You’ll be glad to know that this is the last of the cables for the trail.
Veer left at the intersection to trace around the western face of the Medjed massif.
The narrow trail is clear and cuts directly across the slope, passing through several areas of rock fall and descending gently for the next kilometre as you skirt around the hulking peak.
Swinging around to the north face, the trail pitches sharply down a steep and slippery scree field which is not all that pleasant to navigate, before returning to a stable grassy trail that brings you to Katun Lokvice nestled at the base of the valley.
A katun is essentially a rural community. These are often seasonal country homesteads that are occupied only in summer and united by shared farming practices.
These have existed in the Balkans for centuries and you’ll see these properties peppered across the Montenegrin countryside, some long abandoned and left in ruins, others maintained as a base to access the summer pastures or reinvigorated as accommodation for visitors.
Katun Lokvice is made up of a handful of A-frame cabins and plays host to horses and other livestock. During peak season, you can also stop in at the main hut to enjoy a cold beer or soft drink.
Onwards, the trail meanders through the lush valley for the next 1.5 km, crossing two small hills before descending to the main intersection where the Bobotov Kuk and Medjed trails diverge.
At the middle crest, don’t forget to look back at the formidable wall of peaks that encircle the head of the valley.
From here, you’ll be back on familiar trail, continuing the slow descent through the forest for a further 2 km which will bring you back to the shores of the Black Lake.
On summer weekends, the area is a popular swimming spot for locals and a refreshing dip in the lake is the perfect antidote after a long and extremely hot hike.
This was the longest trail I hiked in Durmitor National Park and aside from about 90 minutes when you’re concealed within the forest, the rest of the route is fully exposed to the elements.
The sun is brutal and you’ll certainly be sweating up a storm when scaling the many extremely steep sections of trail.
Aside from Katun Lokvice where you can purchase a drink towards the end of the hike, there are no other water sources along the trail so be sure to bring plenty to last the distance.
You’ll find a water fountain located about half way up the pedestrian walkway at the Black Lake if you need to fill up.
With so much sun exposure, proper protection is also essential. Broad spectrum, SPF 50+ sunscreen with a long resistance period is best, along with a hat, sunglasses and long-sleeved shirt.
This is a challenging trail and recommended for fit and experienced hikers only.
Despite being a confident hiker, I am admittedly not hugely familiar with the cable supported ridge line traverses that are remarkably common across much of alpine Europe.
Still, for this trail you can expect several extremely steep sections where you’ll need to scramble up with hands and feet, a short but near vertical rock climb, several exposed rock ledges with sharp drop offs and a few scree field crossings.
It’s a fantastic hike and fun adventure with epic views if this is your kind of thing, but if you get nervous around heights or would struggle to hoist yourself up a rock face, this may not be the trail for you.
Clocking in at 9 hours, the hike also requires a good level of physical fitness and mental stamina to maintain concentration when tackling the challenging terrain.
Although the mountains are thankfully far cooler than the sweltering summer temperatures that envelop the lowlands, these peaks can still become rather muggy.
I’d recommend getting an early start for this one so that you can power through the tough ascent to Medjed in the morning and reach the summit of Terzin Bogaz in time for lunch, so as to begin the long descent before the peak afternoon temperatures kick in.
Hiking Poles | Poles are a bit of a liability on the way up and I’d recommend keeping them stowed in your pack so your hands are free to cling onto the rocks and cables, but they’re a godsend for navigating the steep rubbly terrain that awaits on the descent. I use Mountain Designs Trekking Poles (for Aussies), or Black Diamond Trekking Poles.
Power Bank | Anker Portable Charger
e-SIM | Staying connected on such a remote and challenging hike is essential. I recommend Airalo which I’ve used on several hiking trips across Europe in case of emergency. Check plans and coverage here.
Solid Hiking Boots | With so much exposed territory and rocky sections of track, solid hiking boots with good support and decent grip are a good idea. I use SCARPA Hiking Boots or LOWA Renegade Boots.
First Aid Kit | An essential in every hiker’s pack – don’t forget to bring a fully stocked first aid kit with a minimum of bandages, pain killers, plasters, blister patches, antiseptic cream, tweezers and oral rehydration salts.
Sunscreen | I use Neutrogena Beach Defence / Neutrogena Ultra Sheer (both SPF 50 / 4 hours for body / face). Australia has very strict sunscreen regulations so the same formulas aren’t available internationally, but the products linked are similar.
Heading directly to Terzin Bogaz from the Black Lake and skipping out Mali and Veliki Medjed altogether is a popular alternative to the full circuit.
This still means you’re in for a long, all-day hike and you’ll encounter some exposed cabled sections and a vertical rock climb, but much of the way is along standard rubble or forested trail which makes a far more straightforward option to the arduous route that takes in Medjed.
It’s also possible to create a circuit for Terzin Bogaz by following the route via Struga to the Velika Previja saddle and climbing the peak from there, however trail conditions may be iffy along this section.
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