16 February 2025.
Planning a visit to Riglos? The vermillion rock formations of Los Mallos de Riglos and their pocket-sized village make an excellent day trip within the Hoya de Huesca region of northern Spain.
Casting a striking silhouette against the green hills that surround them, the enormous rust red pinnacles of Los Mallos de Riglos surge from the dusty Spanish landscapes, standing as proud sentinels over the compact white-washed village huddled around their base.
Comprised of conglomerate rock and limestone deposits, these rust red towers climb to more than 300 metres, where each mallo, or mallet, is individually identifiable with names like el cuchillo, el puro or el tornillo – the knife, the cigar and the screw.
Riglos is undoubtedly the most famous host of these curious geological formations, but they’re actually not exclusive only to Riglos.
In fact, these intriguing spires lie scattered across the area as the guardians of several neighbouring villages, reminiscent of the sacred giants of the Australian red centre in miniature.
Numerous hiking trails extend from Riglos, weaving amongst these stony needles or fanning out across the parched landscapes that sprawl below the Pyrenees Mountains.
The region is also a magnet for rock climbers and twitchers who arrive to tackle the colossal pillars or marvel at the enormous Eurasian griffon vultures sailing effortlessly overhead.
I visited Los Mallos de Riglos as part of a fantastic two-day trip alongside the Castillo de Loarre, Foz de Lumbier and Foz de Arbayun as I made my way between Zaragoza and the spellbinding Ordesa Valley in the Pyrenees.
Though many visitors do overnight in the area, adding stops at Agüero, Loarre and the La Peña Reservoir in addition to Riglos, a half or full-day visit is enough time to stroll around the village, complete one of the classic walking circuits that wrap around the main massif and enjoy the many nearby vantage points.
This short guide covers the all best things to do in Riglos and around Los Mallos de Riglos.
Riglos sits along a popular tourist circuit in the Hoya de Huesca region which includes the Loarre Castle and Agüero so the drive is well signposted for visitors.
Riglos lies around 90 minutes from Zaragoza or 45 minutes from Huesca straight up the E-7 and A-132, before turning onto a narrow, winding road for the final 10 minutes.
Due to the high volume of day visitors in summer, access is controlled with 3 large parking areas located on the outskirts of Riglos, around 300 metres from the village centre.
P1 fills a designated area in the middle of the road and caters to both cars and buses, while P2 is the largest parking area and is located directly on the left. P3 sits further along on the right and seems to be popular with campervans and motorhomes though there are no extra facilities provided for campers.
As of 2024, prices were €3 / €6 per day for cars / caravans, or €10 for overnight stays, though during my visit all payment machines were out of order.
—
FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Zaragoza is the closest major city to Riglos and has numerous options available for car rental from either the airport or train station. Both are located outside the city centre with easy access to the highway.
I recommend using Discover Cars who offer a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
For those that would prefer not to drive, it’s also possible to reach Riglos by train with at least two services departing daily from Zaragoza and Huesca, usually in the morning and evening.
The trip takes 1.5 to 2 hours from Zaragoza or around an hour from Huesca. Check the timetable here.
Riglos train station is located 800 m from the village centre and is connected via a gravel road.
There are a few guesthouses and restaurants in Riglos and the surrounding villages, though most travellers, including myself, tend to visit on a day trip and base themselves elsewhere in the region such as in Zaragoza, Huesca or Jaca.
In general, expect to pay higher prices for both food and accommodation in the immediate vicinity compared with elsewhere in Spain.
Hotel Avenida | This gorgeous boutique hotel in the heart of Zaragoza is an oasis of tranquility that feels a world away from the bustle of the city. The interiors are an aesthetic dream and have been beautifully renovated in neutral tones and natural materials with a healthy sprinkling of plants throughout. The updated rooms have the same tasteful design, while a handful are still waiting for their makeover and are available at a discounted rate. Check rates and availability here.
Hotel Asador O Callejón De Belchite | Located in Ayerde, the village intersection about half way between Loarre and Riglos, this simple but cosy 2-star hotel offers a range of comfortable apartments and has a solid, good-value restaurant onsite. An excellent breakfast is also included. Check rates and availability here.
Habital Suites | A fab modern hotel offering a range of comfortable rooms on the fringes of Jaca, about an hour from Riglos. Breakfast and street parking are also available, though be aware that Jaca is notoriously difficult for parking during summer and on weekends. As in, you might spend an hour trying to find a spot just to eat dinner. In the off season, things are more straightforward. Check rates and availability here.
Riglos Refuge | This no-frills budget option in Riglos is a popular choice for day hikers and pilgrims passing through the area as part of the Camino Catalan which spans between Barcelona and Santiago de Compostela. Spartan shared and private rooms are available, there’s a lovely outdoor terrace with enviable views on los mallos and the onsite restaurant offers a varied menu, though prices are on the higher side.
Exploring the area on foot is one of the best ways to see and experience the immense scale of Los Mallos de Riglos.
There are 12 walking trails which cut through the region ranging from easy 5 km circuits to more challenging 25 km point-to-point hikes that connect key attractions and the impressive rock pinnacles that lie scattered nearby.
Three begin directly from Riglos, three from Villalangua, and the rest from various other villages.
While I had planned to embark on one of the longer trails, with a storm approaching and the low din of thunder already echoing in the distance, I was forced to choose a shorter option but wasn’t at all disappointed.
At the entrance to Riglos, there is an excellent information board and map which outlines the various walking trails. The two most popular from Riglos are the Camino del Cielo and Camino del Solano.
Keep in mind that there are also climbing and via ferrata routes that require special equipment but are often indicated as a ‘path’ on many online maps of the area so be sure to choose your trail carefully.
The ‘Path to Heaven’ is the quintessential Riglos walk which circles around the primary group of mallos that stand guard over the village.
Walking in an anti-clockwise direction, the trail feeds through the valley and bends in a wide zig-zagging arch through parched, scraggly bushland around Mallo Colorado before climbing to the ridge behind the massif where you’ll find the best views.
Marking the highest point, beautiful Mirador de Bentuso stares between Mallo Pisón and Mallo Firé towards the serpentine Rio Gállego with a backdrop of the green sierra.
To complete the circuit, the trail cuts through the valley along a steep rubble path and skirts around the base of El Puro and Mallo Pisón, an extraordinary section that will make you feel woefully insignificant as you amble beneath the towering burnt sienna cliffs.
The circular 5.2 km route takes around 1.5 to 2 hours to complete and can be hiked in either direction. Expect a reasonably rocky switchback climb and descent whichever direction you go.
Camino del Solano combines the best sections of the Camino del Cielo with a longer circuit that brings you further up the valley alongside a chain of rust red pinnacles before squeezing through a narrow ravine onto the hilltop.
Swinging back around, the trail continues to climb along the ridge line, intersecting with the shorter camino at the Mirador del Colorado and completing the circuit from there.
This route is 10.3 km and can be completed in 2.5 to 3 hours. It’s recommended to hike in an anti-clockwise direction which leaves the most impressive section for the end of the circuit.
Translating as the ‘Path of the Sun’ this one also gets extremely hot with next to no shade so hiking in the morning rather than the heat of the afternoon is best.
After your hike, head out for a short stroll around the charming village of Riglos, a maze of narrow twisting laneways lined with quaint white-washed facades that cascade across the hillside.
Cradled beneath the imposing vermillion cliffs, the 17th century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Mallo takes pride of place perched on the highest point of the hill above the village.
It’s no longer possible to go inside but the views over the terracotta rooftops and patchwork of farmlands is wonderful.
Everything is downhill from here so mosey back to the centre of town enjoying the quiet streets and cool shade afforded by the buildings.
The Mirador de los Buitres provides one of the best views of los Mallos de Riglos and, as the name suggests, is a prime spot to see the many vultures that frequent these landscapes.
This region is home to one of the largest European colonies of the Eurasian griffon vulture and this viewing platform makes a fantastic place to watch these enormous birds soaring majestically overhead.
However, getting here is not as simple as you might expect.
By car, the best access road begins from the hamlet of Sarsamarcuello which is located around half an hour from Riglos, though this rough dirt track is rocky and strewn with potholes so is only recommended for hardy vehicles with a high clearance.
The narrow road winds uphill behind the village, past Ermita de San Miguel and the ruins of Castillo de Marcuello to reach the lookout in 5 km.
On foot, there are two main options to reach the mirador.
Firstly, park at Sarsamarcuello and walk along the dirt road where there is a scenic foot path detour for the final 2 km which brings you along the clifftops past Mirador Os Fils and Mirador del Tornillo. The route climbs gradually the entire way and is 10 km return.
Alternatively, Mirador de los Buitres can be added as a detour to the Camino del Solano with an additional 3 km of mostly uphill walking from the Collado de Santon Roman junction before returning via the same route to complete the trail to Riglos. Keep in mind that this will extend the full circuit to 16 km.
A highlight of both the Camino del Cielo and Solano, Mirador de Bentusa and Mirador del Circo are among the best viewpoints in Riglos overlooking the surrounding countryside punctured by burnt sienna spires.
If you’re not keen to complete either of the full walking trails (though I highly recommend it if you have the time), many visitors climb directly to these viewpoints around the west face of the massif.
The miradors sit 600 metres apart and can be reached in just 1.4 km and 2 km via a steep, rubbly path with 400 m of elevation gain.
Providing almost the exact opposite perspective of what you’ll see from Mirador de Bentuso, this vantage point (located here) looks directly onto the mallos from opposite the river with Mallo Pisón and Mallo Firé standing as proud sentinels on either side of the grassy ravine.
There’s a rough gravel shoulder a short distance beyond Murillo de Gállego where you can park and you’ll need to continue down the side road on foot for the best view.
Unfortunately, a power line does get in the way, but regardless, it’s a lovely panorama rising beyond the olive groves.
Zipping down the A-132 opposite Riglos, the magnificent rust-tinted towers are a constant companion hovering in your periphery, but there are very few safe and unobstructed places to pull over and enjoy the view.
Thankfully, this riverside viewpoint (located here) has a small parking bay on the east side of the road with enough space for a couple of cars and provides a unique perspective on the serrated west face of the Mallos de Riglos rising above the turquoise belt of Rio Gállego.
Located on the roadside as you approach Riglos from the south, the Monumento a los Escaladores offers charming views of the village nestled beneath the powerful copper cliffs of the mallos.
There’s a small parking bay here but it’s often full and impossible to stop, so a better option is to continue into Riglos and secure a parking spot for your visit and then walk the 400 m back down the road for a peek at the view.
* This post includes affiliate links and any purchases made through these links will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. *
