A Short Guide To Malpica | A Galician Fishing Village

11 December 2024.

Located just an hour from Santiago de Compostela, the laidback fishing village of Malpica is a wonderful destination for a weekend escape or to kick off the beautiful Lighthouse Way.  

A sleepy seaside town with a deep-seated fishing tradition, Malpica de Bergañitos, shortened to Malpica, holds a beautiful location sprawling over a narrow bulge of land that juts out from the rugged Galician coast.

Rolling hills collide with ferocious seas, seagulls fill the sky and fishing boats roll restlessly amongst the waves.

Salty spray casts a misty haze over the pastel facades that cascade across the hillside, providing a colourful backdrop for kite boarders who jump and glide across the protected turquoise bay, making use of the relentless winds which sweep across the peninsula.

Though perhaps not as lovingly tended as other villages in the region, Malpica’s sweeping beaches and excellent seafood make it a worthy stop, located just an hour from Galicia’s major cities of Santiago de Compostela and A Coruña.

On summer weekends, the area swells with local visitors swapping the city heat for icy waves, though midweek out of season it remains remarkably peaceful.

Beaches aside, Malpica also marks the starting point for the Camino dos Faros or Lighthouse Way, a fantastic multi-day trail that guides hikers west to Finisterre along the wild Costa da Morte.

This is what drew me to Malpica and afforded a beautiful sunny afternoon to explore the main attractions before setting off on the hike the following morning.

This short guide will lead you on a scenic walking tour of Malpica which can easily be completed in a few hours at a leisurely pace – a perfect introduction to this quaint fishing village before embarking on the Lighthouse Way.

Though Malpica is reasonably compact covering just a couple of kilometres, the ideal place to base yourself is near the tip of the peninsula where the land forms a narrow channel between the port and the beach spanning just 150m.

In this pocket of rambling laneways, you’ll be within minutes of the town’s best restaurants, main attractions and bus stop.

There are just two pensións in the village centre and one hotel at the far end of the beach, while the rest of the accommodation is largely private apartments, many of which require a two night minimum stay.

Hostal J.B.   |  Located right on the beachfront, this cosy guesthouse is an excellent budget choice in Malpica. Rooms are simple but comfortable and many offer ocean views where you can watch the waves rolling in or the fading sun illuminating the bay in fiery hues. Check rates and availability here.

Apartmento   |   This apartment is a top-rated option in the heart of Malpica which includes a fully-equipped kitchen, cosy living area and ocean views. One night bookings are available. Check rates and availability here.

Vista Mar   |   Located at the western end of the beach, Vista Mar is a bright and modern apartment that is fully equipped for guests. Two night minimum stay. Check rates and availability here.

Many visitors arrive in Malpica in preparation for the Camino dos Faros and will therefore travel by bus, but those visiting on a day trip, weekend getaway or for a whole week to explore the Galician coast may prefer to travel by car.

From Santiago de Compostela, it’s 64 km and just over an hour’s drive to Malpica along quiet country roads. The most direct route is via the DP-0701/1914 to Carballo where you’ll join the AC-418 for Malpica.

If you’re arriving from A Coruña, the route is even quicker at just 45 minutes. Hit the busy AG-55 heading west to Carballo and turn onto the AC-418 to reach the coast.

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To reach Malpica by bus from either Santiago or A Coruña, there are just a few daily departures and you’ll need to transfer in Carballo. Check the timetable here.

Enter your departure from Santiago E.I. (Estación Intermodal) or A Coruña E.A. (Estación de Autobuses) to Malpica (Malpica de Bergantiños) and be sure select ‘con transbordo’ (with transfer) rather than ‘viejo directo’ (direct trip) which will yield no results.

There are regular departures from Santiago and A Coruña to Carballo, though usually just 2 to 3 direct services per day from Carballo to Malpica. Outside peak season, some trips are by request only.

The bus station in Carballo is little more than a dusty carpark with a building off to the side which was completely deserted during my visit. You’ll find a faded timetable pinned in the window.

Tickets can be purchased on board and cost €4.10 (Santiago to Carballo) and €1.55 (Carballo to Malpica) as of 2024. With transfers, the trip takes around 3 hours.

Arriving to the wild and windy coast after weeks of hiking in the Pyrenees, it was the enormous painting of a fishing boat crashing through rough swell beneath a stormy, seagull-filled sky that first caught my eye.

Adorning a building at the eastern end of the promenade that wraps around Praia de Area Maior, this large-scale mural, painted by Galician artist Joseba Muruzábal (known as Yoseba MP), is one of many murals that brighten the already colourful town.

Those visiting by car may also like to stop in Carballo to see more of Yoseba’s work in his mural collection ‘Fenómenos do Rural’ which translates to Rural Phenomena.

Crossing from the promenade to the far end of the peninsula, the buildings concealed amongst the inner warren of streets become increasingly run down.

Reaching the end of Rúa da Altamira, you’ll arrive at the mirador which offers sweeping views over the marina and along the green Galician coast.

Historically, when Malpica operated as a key whaling port, this headland provided a perfect vantage point to track the movement of whales within the bay.

Though perhaps not as impressive as the dramatic cliff lines that await further west for those hiking the Lighthouse Way, it’s a good opportunity to get your bearings and a taste of the coastal landscapes.

The mirador is marked by a large tiled platform that extends beyond the buildings and is equipped with a few benches. A steep wooden staircase leads directly down to the port from here.

Appearing in records as early as the 13th century, Malpica is believed to have been established by Basque sailors and has a long history built on a strong fishing culture which is still prevalent today.

Despite being a comparatively small town, it remains as a strategic fishing port in the region with a large auction house on site which is still in operation.

Fishing nets, traps and pots lie piled up along the jetty, colourful fishing boats roll amongst the restless waves and cheeky seagulls hover overhead in the hopes of scavenging what they can.

It’s an interesting place for a wander and a popular spot for locals who stroll to the end of the pier in the afternoon. Keep an eye out for the large seahorse mural which adorns one of the adjacent facades.

Traski, the shamrock green troll, is the mascot of the Camino dos Faros and will become all too familiar for those hiking the trail.

His curled hat and enthusiastic smile pop up frequently along the hike – in guesthouse elevators and on bus stops to name a few – and were the inspiration behind the curved arrow and emerald footprints that guide the way along the route.

In the parking area of the port, you’ll find a life-sized figurine of Traski which indicates the official starting point of the trail and is designed with a representative map and a QR code linking to the official website of the Camino dos Faros association.

From the port, climb the steep driveway to return to Malpica’s main drag and head left towards Rúa Igrexa to visit Malpica’s small church – Igrexa de San Xulián or Iglesia de San Julián.

This small sandstone structure in the heart of the village is surrounded by magnolia trees which create a beautiful halo of blossoms come spring. Though it was closed during my visit, ordinarily you can pop inside for a look.

From the church, continue along Rúa Camiño do Río for what is, in my opinion, the best view of Malpica.

Ascending the gentle slope, you’ll reach a lovely vantage point on the roadside about half way up which overlooks the port and the colourful facades that crowd around the promontory.

On a calm sunny afternoon, few things beat lolling about on the sand and enjoying the glorious turquoise water that extends from Malpica.

Cutting across the narrow isthmus to Rúa Praia, the promenade that wraps around Malpica’s beachfront, you’ll find two main beaches – the sweeping crescent of Praia de Area Maior, and the smaller Praia de Canido at the far end which is separated by a rocky outcrop.

For those keen to venture further afield, continue west around the bay for an additional 1.7km where you’ll find Praia de Seaia, a more secluded beach that can offer additional protection when the wind picks up.

From Rúa Praia, you’ll have an enviable view across the bay towards Cabo de Santo Hadrián and the Sisargas Islands – a perfect vantage point to watch the sunset.

Depending on the time of year, the sun may sink directly behind the cape, but the rich golden hues cast across the village and the bay before it slides below the horizon are simply gorgeous, as is the vibrant afterglow which silhouettes the distant peninsula.

Once darkness falls, you can also catch the unwavering beam of light emitted from Faro Islas Sisargas which sits atop the largest islet and marks the very first lighthouse of the Lighthouse Way.

For this reason, I’d highly recommend choosing accommodation on this side of the promontory where you’ll be welcomed with undisturbed ocean views.

It’s well worth it and means you can enjoy both sunrise and sunset from the comfort of your bed, or just a few steps away at one of the lively bars scattered around the waterfront.

If you love seafood, Galicia’s strong fishing culture means you’ve basically arrived in foodie heaven. 

Many restaurants serve an almost identical menu of seafood from the region, where octopus, scallops, fish, razor clams, king prawns and squid are the stars.

Traditionally, dishes are often prepared in a simple manner that really highlights the seafood, or may be complemented by an irresistible concoction of butter, garlic and lemon.

While there are several seafood restaurants in Malpica, many are closed Monday through Wednesday, so be sure to check where will actually be open during your visit.

I arrived on a Monday in September when just two restaurants were open, though I still managed to enjoy a delicious seafood feast.

Admittedly, I was a little hesitant after reading the mixed reviews, but I ended up having an excellent dinner at El Pescador, enjoying a sizzling plate of rich garlic prawns, fresh salad, warm bread and a crisp glass of white wine.

With a table at the window, I also had an unbeatable view of the super blood moon rising over the port.

Other top-rated seafood restaurants in Malpica include: Material (recommended by Michelin and regarded as the best in town), Restaurante O Burato, Restaurante San Francisco and Cafeteria J.B.

Jutting out into the wild Atlantic Ocean just west of Malpica, Cabo de Santo Hadrián or San Adrián is a rugged peninsula that plays host to the Santuario de Santo Hadrián do Mar, a 16th century hermitage that offers up fantastic views.

Wedged just offshore, the rocky lichen encrusted cliffs of Islas Sisargas rise dramatically from the sea with the intervening channel smattered with jagged rocks that protrude above the waves.

A bleak reminder of why this treacherous section of coastline is referred to as the Costa da Morte.

Atop the largest of the three islands, Sisarga Grande, a lighthouse stands proudly to guide sailors safely along the coast.

Still in operation with its bright beam spinning diligently as darkness sweeps along the coast, the island itself is no longer permanently manned and has become a haven of rich birdlife.

From Malpica’s main beach, a wide, easy-to-follow trail leads along the promenade and across the hillside carpeted in lilac heath to the hermitage and the San Adrián Viewpoint. Onwards, a small dirt trail guides you downhill and around the tip of the cape for a closer look at the islands locked offshore.

This beautiful walk makes up the first section of the Camino dos Faros so is only suggested as a separate outing for those not hiking the trail. As a standalone walk it’s 4km and takes around an hour each way.

Alternatively, you can drive as far as the hermitage in about 10 minutes and walk to the cape from there.

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