Peaks of the Balkans Accommodation: All The Best Places To Stay

26 July 2024.

Planning your Peaks of the Balkans accommodation? This short guide covers all the best places to stay along the trek. 

Accommodation along the Peaks of the Balkans trail is well established with several guesthouses operating in each village along the trail.

In the larger towns, you’ll be spoiled for choice with everything ranging from basic hostels to luxurious hotels and mountain chalets, while in the smaller villages in between, simple but cosy, family-run guesthouses with wonderfully warm hospitality will be the bread and butter of your trip.

With trail hikers turning over almost every single day, these guesthouses operate like a well-oiled machine, welcoming in each day’s new recruits, serving up obscene amounts of exceptional food on a set meal schedule and sending them on their way.

Finding the best accommodation on trail for your style and budget can really make your Peaks of the Balkans experience that extra bit special. This guide covers what you can expect from the Peaks of the Balkans accommodation, how to book and my recommendations of where to stay in each village along the route.

What To Expect From the Peaks of the Balkans Accommodation

The quality of accommodation varies greatly along the trail, from simple hostels and basic bungalows with squat toilets to charming and wonderfully cosy guesthouses and luxurious hotels.

One thing they do tend to have in common is warm hospitality and a spectacular setting nestled amongst the impressive Accursed Mountains.

Almost all guesthouses along the Peaks of the Balkans trail are able to provide all of your meals, including dinner, a packed lunch and breakfast (more on this below). In the larger towns, this is not always a given, however if meals are not available, your guesthouse should be able to recommend a nearby restaurant instead.

Virtually all guesthouses we stayed at also had wifi (in varying degrees of usability, but mostly good), hot showers, private rooms and excellent food. Most bathrooms are shared, and occasionally in a separate building outside, though some of the newer properties do offer private bathrooms.

Overall, considering just how remote some of the villages are, the accommodation options are generally excellent and very reasonably priced.

READ NEXT   |   25 Helpful Things To Know Before Hiking the Peaks of the Balkans

Peaks of the Balkans Accommodation Costs

For our trip, accommodation prices ranged from €30 to €45 per person, per night including all meals.

In the larger towns, you can certainly push this scale higher if you’re after somewhere more luxurious, however, we enjoyed many beautiful options in this price range and didn’t feel like we were compromising on comfort.

Accommodation is also generally charged at a set price per person, regardless of whether you are a solo hiker in a private room, or a couple or group sharing a room.

To simplify things, this price often includes all meals – breakfast, dinner and a packed lunch. However, some guesthouses (particularly if booking online) have a rate for the room with breakfast included and the option to add on dinner and/or a packed lunch for an additional fee.

Lunch packets often cost €5 per person, but range from around €3 to €8. Dinners may range from €10 to €15 per person.

I’d recommend reaching out to the host of each guesthouse after booking to confirm the cost of a full board package including all meals.

READ NEXT   |   How Much Does It Cost To Hike The Peaks of the Balkans?

Food On The Peaks of the Balkans

Overall, the food served was fantastic – hearty, plentiful and just what you wanted after a long day on trail or to start a chilly morning in the mountains.

The food quickly became one of the best parts of our Peaks of the Balkans trip. In fact, we soon began compiling a mental list of who made the best individual dishes (the best soup, the best burek… you get the idea) because there were so many delicious options to choose from.

Portions were always very generous and hosts were often happy to provide extra bread or other elements of the meals if needed.

You certainly, won’t be going hungry on this trek! You might even come home a few kilos heavier.

Breakfast usually consists of some combination of tomato and cucumber, eggs (either fried or as an omelette), bread with jam and homemade cheese, fried dough (petulla), mountain tea and/or coffee.

Mountain tea is a ubiquitous herbal tea brewed using plants that grow across the mountains of the Balkan peninsula, while coffee is often served Turkish-style – small, strong and black.

Lunch is sometimes pre-packed and provided to you, but more common is for a spread of tomato, cucumber, homemade cheese and bread or rolls to be laid out during breakfast for everyone to help themselves. Sometimes a piece of fruit is also provided.

The pre-packed lunches we had were among the more expensive of the trip and also included things like sausages and a chocolate bar which was a nice little treat.

For dinner, prepare to gorge on all kinds of deliciousness. The final meal of the day was always a massive spread of very traditional local dishes, often served up family style, though occasionally portioned out per couple or individual.

Dinners usually start with a soup of beans or meat and vegetables (hats off to the incredible soups we ate at Chalet Rrusta and Bujtina Tinari!), followed by a salad of cucumber, tomato, cabbage and cheese, bread, burek and roasted capsicums.

Other popular dishes include speca me maze – roasted peppers in a creamy sauce (delicious!), flavour-packed rice or potatoes and grilled chicken.

Despite being full enough to roll right off to bed at this point, occasionally you’ll also be treated to a small dessert or slices of fruit to end the meal.

Some of the smaller guesthouse will ask what time you’d like to eat your meals, though most revolve around a 7 a.m. breakfast and 7 p.m. dinner schedule. Do not be late for meals because the other hikers won’t wait for you.

Many guesthouses also have a fridge where you can buy drinks in the evenings – beer and soft drinks are most common and usually cost between €2 and €4.

For vegetarians or those with dietary requirements, these can sometimes be accommodated. Be sure to discuss this with your guesthouse beforehand.

Should You Book Your Accommodation in advance?

This was a topic of much debate on the trail – those that booked their guesthouses in many months ago, and those who had rocked up and secured a room on the day.

If you’re prepared to be flexible, booking your accommodation in advance is not strictly essential, but if you’re hiking during peak season (July and August) and don’t intend to bring a tent, I would highly recommend booking in advance for a few important reasons.

//     Large tour groups are common along the Peaks of the Balkans trail (one particular company takes groups of up to 40 people twice per week) and can easily take over an entire guesthouse leaving very little space for independent hikers.

In larger towns like Plav, Theth and Valbona, there are plenty of guesthouses to accommodate a high volume of guests, however in tiny villages like Çerem, Dobërdol and Milishevc which only have a few places to stay, this will significantly reduce the options available.

If your itinerary happens to coincide with one of these groups, you may struggle to find accommodation across consecutive days in these smaller villages. While most places really do their best to accommodate everyone, we did see hikers turned away for this exact reason.

//     After a long day of hiking, potentially sweltering through a heatwave or braving a mountain thunderstorm, the last thing you’re going to want to do is go door-knocking to find somewhere to sleep. In small villages this would be straightforward with only a few options to choose from, but in towns that are more spread out, such as Valbona that drags on for several kilometres, this could become a very drawn out process.

//     Most bookings for Peaks of the Balkans accommodation are flexible and allow for changes until a day or two ahead of time. This means that even if you do have everything booked in, you may still be able to adjust your itinerary if you need to without any additional fees.

//     Bookings are first come first serve, so if you want the best choice of accommodation, like the private rooms or ones with an ensuite bathroom, you’d do well to get in early.

//     Cash is king out here in the mountains and there are no ATMs along the route, except in Plav. Knowing exactly where you’re going to be staying and how much it will cost in advance will help you plan out how much money you’ll need to bring for the entire trek.

Choosing Your Accommodation

One of the main considerations when choosing accommodation is proximity to the actual Peaks of the Balkans trail – a 30-minute uphill climb, off trail, to your guesthouse at the end of the day, only to retrace your steps the following morning is hardly ideal.

This particularly applies to the larger towns along the route – Plav, Theth and Valbona – where there are plenty of beautiful guesthouses on offer, however as the towns are more spread out and serve other day hikers or those arriving by car, they may be located several kilometres away from the route.

As much as possible, we tried to remain close to the Peaks of the Balkans trail, with the only exception being Theth where we opted to stay near the village centre which is located 2 kilometres from the official circuit.

When checking the relative distance of accommodation from the trail, I found the easiest way was to upload a gpx track of the entire Peaks of the Balkans route to maps.me (I always use this for hiking) and then compare the proximity. 

Another big consideration is the level of comfort you’re after for your hike.

In the small villages, you won’t have much range of choice and some of the guesthouses are going to be on the more basic end of the spectrum, however, the larger towns present an excellent opportunity to splurge a little on those creature comforts. 

Plav Accommodation

Accommodation in Plav is concentrated around two main areas that are located 1.5 to 2 km apart – alongside the lake which provides a beautiful outlook and is close to the bus station, or near the river at the opposite end of town which is closer to the border police office and the Peaks of the Balkans trail. Most options are family-run and occupy the same building as the family home.

If you’re starting and ending Plav, I’d suggest staying closer to the trailhead so you can hit the ground running on your first day, while being situated by the lake on your final day makes a wonderful bookend for the entire trek.

If you’re just passing through, being close to the lake is your best bet. Be sure to collect your Peaks of the Balkans border permit from the border police on your way past so you don’t have to backtrack.

Guesthouse Erdan   |   A comfortable budget option located close to the Peaks of the Balkans trailhead, this small guesthouse offers two spacious rooms upstairs with a shared bathroom and includes a home-cooked breakfast. They can also store any extra luggage for you during the trek. Check rates and availability here.

Ema Apartments   |   For those that would prefer to be close to the lake, Ema Apartments offers modern, beautifully appointed rooms equipped with a kitchenette and ensuite set just back from Plav Lake. Enjoy access to the outdoor terrace with a backdrop of Prokletije’s spectacular peaks. Check rates and availability here.

Vusanje Accommodation

Guesthouse Kollata   |   We stayed at this simple, family-run guesthouse which is located close to the trail and one of the first options you pass on the way into town. Private rooms in the main house have a shared bathroom, while the garden chalet has private facilities. Hearty meals are available and served on the terrace with lovely views towards the valley. Check rates and availability here.

Theth Accommodation

Bujtina Tinari   |  One of my favourite guesthouses of the entire trip, top-rated Tinari is an absolute gem. We stayed in the cute and cosy top floor room with ensuite and a balcony that overlooked the valley. Dinner here is exceptional with tiny plates of delicious, traditional food that just seem to keep coming – perfect after a long and very soggy day of hiking. Highly recommend! Check rates and availability here.

Bujtina Pllumi   |  Another highly rated option in Theth, Pllumi is located on the hillside behind Tinari and receives rave reviews about the delicious home-cooked meals that use all local produce, wonderful mountain views, comfortable rooms and friendly hosts. Check rates and availability here.

Valbona Accommodation

Valbona is the most dispersed Peaks of the Balkans villages with guesthouses spanning about 8km along the edge of the main road without much of a village ‘centre’ to speak of. If you plan to take the alternate route to From Valboma to Çerem over the magical Prosllopit Pass, I’d highly recommend choosing accommodation close to the start of this trail.

Many popular and top-rated accommodation options in Valbona lie well beyond this intersection and would add several unnecessary kilometres, often uphill, to your day.

Bujtina Valbonë   |   This beautiful mountain chalet offers modern and cosy private rooms that feel a little more luxe than your average guesthouse – a wonderful treat after some of the more basic accommodation found along the trail. It’s also just 700m from the trailhead for Çerem making it perfect to hit the trail the following morning. Most rooms offer mountain views and breakfast is included, but you’ll most often have to go elsewhere for dinner. The only small downside is that it sits right next to the enormous resort. Check rates and availability here.

Villas Jezerca   |   Just a short way down the road, the large property of Villas Jezerca is even closer to the trailhead and offers a range of cosy cabins that face directly onto the mountains and plenty of outdoor spaces to kick back and enjoy the views. While we didn’t stay here, we did enjoy an excellent traditional dinner at their restaurant. Check rates and availability here.

Bujtina Izet Selimaj   |   Around 1.5 km from the Prosllopit Pass trail, this newly built family-run guesthouse and popular restaurant is a decent wallet-friendly choice, surrounded by a lovely garden. The wooden rooms are simple but have large, bright windows that allow guests to enjoy the beautiful mountain views from bed. Check rates and availability here.

Çerem Accommodation

Guesthouse Kujtim Gocaj  |  Perfectly located alongside the trail coming down from Prosllopit Pass on the hillside above the village, this guesthouse is the first one you come to and exactly where you start from the following day.

Guests can choose from the old house or new house (€35 or €45 as of 2024) with the new wooden house offering basic private rooms with an ensuite and all meals included. The views from the terrace overlooking the lush valley are lovely. Be sure to bring your own towel. Contact via Facebook or email.

VITA Guesthouse  |  For those taking the official valley road from Valbona, Vita Guesthouse is well situated along the trail. The main house has comfortable rooms with a shared bathroom, while the brand new slightly pricier bungalows include an ensuite. Guests love the excellent, traditional meals served here and the friendly host. Check rates and availability here.

Dobërdol Accommodation

Bashkimi Guesthouse  |  Widely regarded as the best of the bunch in Dobërdol, Bashkimi sits at the top of the hill as you come into the village. Bungalows are spartan but the blankets are thick and beds comfortable enough. Thankfully, there are hot showers but it’s squat toilets only out here.

Rooms are not all that well insulated and the nights can be particularly chilly, but there is a heated sitting room which is much more cosy to while away the time in the evenings. Meals are plentiful and varied. Be sure to arrive on time (or even early) as sometimes dinner is served ahead of schedule and you wouldn’t want to miss out.  Contact via Facebook or email.

TOP TIP  |  It’s not recommended to drink the water in Dobërdol and it’s a big reason why many hikers become sick when passing through. Although we were told the water from the fountain was fine to drink at Bashkimi, we, and most others, took the precaution of purifying or filtering the water here.

Milishevc Accommodation

Chalet Rrusta   |  I had many people recommend Chalet Rrusta to me and it was one of the homeliest places we stayed along the hike and excellent value too. The dinner was completely delicious (definitely the best soup and rice of the trip!) and generous and came with little cakes for dessert which was a nice touch.

The hosts were lovely and the whole house was super cosy and comfortable. There are just two private rooms with shared bathrooms, or three shared rooms in the guesthouse upstairs. A new building is under construction for next summer. Contact via Facebook, WhatsApp or email.

Rekë e Allagës Accommodation

Ariu Guesthouse  |  Perfectly situated right beside the trail, Ariu is set in a large double story house with several simple but comfortable rooms for guests and a shared bathroom on each floor.

The family are warm and welcoming (speaking German and limited English), meals are excellent – the burek and speca me maze were particularly good – and there’s a nice outdoor seating area to relax in the afternoon. Contact via WhatsApp or Facebook (though we found they were more responsive on WhatsApp).

NOTE  |  Panorama Hostel (not to be confused with Hotel Panorama in Rugove) is somewhere I saw widely recommended for Rekë e Allagës, both in guidebooks and online. Having read some fairly concerning reviews from the past year while researching for the trip, and meeting fellow hikers who had their reservations cancelled last minute or had horror stories of their own, I would really suggest avoiding the place, particularly for solo female travellers.

Drelaj / Kuqishtë Accommodation

Officially, this stage ends in Kuqishtë, however much of the remainder of the route from Drelaj follows the road and so it’s a popular choice to skip this 13 km stretch with a transfer.

After much research, we decided to skip this section too in favour of adding the spectacular hike to Hajla Peak. Initially, we planned to take a taxi after the walk and stay overnight in Kuqishtë, however after hearing such wonderful things about Shquiponja, we changed our plans last minute and were not disappointed.

Shquiponja Guesthouse   |   Set in a lovely lush garden fringed in fruit trees, Shquiponja is the perfect mountain sanctuary after a long day of hiking. Rooms are simple but comfortable with a shared bathroom and once again the food was excellent and portioned out per pair of guests. The host is also able to provide to transport to Restaurant Te Liqueni the following morning for an additional €10 / €15 per person / pair. Contact via Facebook or WhatsApp.

Bujtina Kaçaku   |   Another top-rated option in Drelaj, Kaçaku sits right beside the road as you enter town. Though we didn’t stay here, it looked like a beautiful spot with a spacious balcony to enjoy the mountain vistas. Check rates and availability here.

Babino Polje Accommodation

Compared to other places we stayed along the Peaks of the Balkans trail, there was a notable price / quality discrepancy for the accommodation in Babino Polje with most options being simultaneously more basic (with the exception of Doberdol) and slightly more expensive than elsewhere. Electricity (and hot water) in the village is intermittent and wifi and phone signal non-existent.

Triangle Woodhouse  |  A favourite among hikers arriving in Babino Polje, Triangle Woodhouse offers a variety of simple rooms with a shared bathroom and guests rave about the homemade meals provided by the passionate host. As you pass through the village, the guesthouse is located 300m past the turn off for the hike to Plav. Check rates and accommodation here.

We actually stayed at different top-rated guesthouse which we had mixed feelings about, but if I were to do the hike again, I’d opt for Triangle Woodhouse instead.

* This post includes affiliate links and any purchases made through these links will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. *