26 July 2024.
The Peaks of the Balkans is an exceptional long-distance trail, but hiking the remote Accursed Mountains does present some unique quirks and challenges. These are my top practical tips to consider when planning your trip.
Crossing the spectacular Accursed Mountains that sprawl across the intersecting borders of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo, the Peaks of the Balkans is among the newest long-distance hiking trails in Europe.
Established just over a decade ago, the official 192 km trail forms a circular route that is best completed over 10 stages, with many opportunities for spectacular side quests and route deviations that only enhance the experience.
Austere rocky peaks plunge into forested valleys, colourful wildflowers carpet lush alpine meadows, ancient beech forests conceal glacial lakes, and craggy mountain passes reveal magnificent panoramas, providing countless moments to wow intrepid hikers that venture into this remote wilderness.
And that’s not to mention the warm hospitality and mouth-watering traditional food you’ll be generously provided at the guesthouses that lay scattered along the route.
While this region of the Balkans has experienced a boom in recent years and the days when it was considered an obscure travel destination are long gone, hiking these rugged mountains remains a remarkable experience.
Travelling and hiking here does however present some unique quirks and challenges which are important to consider when planning your trip.
From how to secure your border permits and where to avoid drinking the water, to the absolute best side trips and seasons to visit, to itinerary ideas and safety hints, this guide covers all my top practical tips for hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
1 | An online map and gpx trail are essential – trail signage alone is inadequate for navigation
Before hiking the Peaks of the Balkans, I read plenty of stories of hikers taking wrong turns, having to backtrack for long sections after missing a turn or getting entirely lost along the trail.
Now having completed the hike, it’s not hard to see why.
Most of the route could do with a lot of improvement in the signage department.
Small white placards displaying the green Peaks of the Balkans logo mark the circuit and are pinned to trees and rocks intermittently along the main route, however you’ll also see them along popular alternate trails.
All three countries also use a mix of the red and white bullseye or stripes as waymarkings to indicate the trail, though this can refer to any hiking trail, not just the Peaks of the Balkans route.
In general, the trail itself is clear and easy to follow with periodic markers, though some sections are somewhat overgrown or formed by a very faintly trodden grass path.
Yellow signage is used across the region to indicate key hiking or biking trails, often with the difficulty rating (black, red or blue), the distance and the duration.
Frustratingly though, we found that key intersections were most often missing trail markers and signs where they would actually have been helpful, or if they were present, they rarely included the next stage destination of the Peaks of the Balkans route.
There are also many instances where the obvious, well-trodden trail at an unmarked fork actually leads the wrong way, while the barely visible trail that is easy to miss is the correct one to remain on the Peaks of the Balkans circuit.
For these reasons, I’d highly recommend using an online map and downloading a recent gpx trail of the route.
Armed with this, we found it easy enough to navigate, though we did have to check our maps far more frequently than expected. We used maps.me for the entire trek which was generally reliable and had all relevant trails marked.
The stages from Babino Polje to Plav and Theth to Valbona are easily the best marked (and among the most popular) sections with regular waymarkings and signage. However, there are few other stages that you could confidently get through based on signage alone without relying on a map.
2 | The weather is highly changeable – prepare for heatwaves, storms and bitterly cold nights
We set out from Plav on day one of our trek in the throes of a stifling summer heat wave which sent temperatures soaring upwards of 30°C, leaving us drenched in sweat in minutes, churning through water, and sheltering in the tiniest slivers of shade we could find on the sweltering afternoon decent into Vusanje.
The next day brought a violent mountain thunderstorm where we were met with lightening, hail, torrential rain and winds that threatened to knock us off the path while ascending to Peja Pass (Qafa e Pejës).
In the aftermath, a bitter cold snap descended over the mountains that saw us rugging up in our fleeces and trousers and burying ourselves under every blanket we could find to keep warm in Dobërdol, only for the next heat wave to arrive the following week.
In general, we were incredibly lucky with the weather, experiencing just one day of rain, compared to other hikers we met who were hit with multiple storms and extended heatwaves.
In the height of summer, you’re likely to experience severe heat, freezing cold nights, heavy downpours, strong winds and dangerous storms. For those completing the full Peaks of the Balkans circuit, it is essential to be prepared for all eventualities.
I’d also recommend downloading the free WeatherRadar App that provides a reasonably accurate storm radar, including lightening and rain, and is incredibly helpful when navigating the higher sections of trail.
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TOP TIP | In case of emergencies and to keep updated on changing conditions, stay connected in these remote mountains with an e-sim. I’ve personally used Airalo on several multi-day hiking trips in Europe, including in the Balkans, and would recommend them.
3 | Bring all the cash you’ll need
Outside of Plav, there are no ATMs along the Peaks of the Balkans trail and cards are not accepted so you’ll need to bring enough cash to last you for the entire trip.
When calculating your budget, be sure to factor in around €30 to €45 per night for accommodation and meals (more if you’re leaning towards a higher end experience), transport to the start of the trail, any internal taxis or transfers you intend to use, fees for Prokletije National Park, border permit fees for Montenegro if you haven’t gone through an agency, trail snacks and drinks along the way.
I’d also recommend bringing some extra cash in case you need to change your plans or extend your trip in the event of poor weather or illness.
READ NEXT | How Much Does It Cost To Hike The Peaks of the Balkans
4 | Euros are accepted along the entire route
Thankfully, Euros are accepted everywhere on trail so you don’t have to worry about carrying multiple currencies.
Guesthouses will often have change for larger notes, but try to keep some coins and small notes on hand for the mountain cafes along the route.
It’s also worth noting that all three countries charge exorbitant ATM withdrawal fees (usually a minimum of €5, though I saw as high as €21 in Albania) so aim to withdraw money before arriving in the region if you can.
5 | A mountain pup may join you for part of your hike
During our trip, a fluffy black dog accompanied various hikers peeling out of Valbona before latching onto one couple and sticking with them over Prosllopit Pass, up Kollata Peak, into Çerem and all the way to Dobërdol the following day.
Here it found new friends, whiled away the afternoon frolicking about, running off with people’s socks and attempting to cuddle up in one camper’s tent, before joining a group of marathoners whose pace was clearly more exciting than us regular trekkers.
On it went to continue it’s seemingly perpetual summer of roaming the Peaks of the Balkans circuit.
Now, while this might sound like the perfect hiking situation for some, he also terrorised the livestock grazing along the route, barked incessantly at the horses and angered the shepherds and their guard dogs who assumed that these hikers were allowing their pet to run amok.
Sweet and friendly as these dogs often are, simply seeking out a smidge of affection and some food, be prepared that if you encourage them to join your crew, you may very well be stuck with them for a day or two, bad behaviour and all.
6 | Be sure to secure your border permits before your trek
The Peaks of the Balkans trail crosses between Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo via remote mountain passes that fall outside the official border crossing locations.
Some border points are marked by an old checkpoint podium harking back to the region’s communist era, while many simply fall along a ridge line or peak with no indication that you’re venturing from one country to another.
A key part of preparing for the hike is to secure your permits and approvals from each country to officially cross between these borders.
Though it is reasonably rare to have these permits checked and we never saw border guards at any of the crossings, we certainly heard of other hikers being turned away for not having the correct paperwork which would be enough to ruin your entire trip.
You can either apply for the border permits independently via a somewhat convoluted process or you can go through a local agency (Zbulo is widely recommended) who will submit all the paperwork and secure the permits on your behalf.
READ NEXT | How To Apply For the Peaks of the Balkans Border Permits Independently
7 | There are many ways to alter the official route…
The official circular 10-day Peaks of the Balkans route takes in some of the best mountain scenery on offer across the Accursed Mountains, but there are many ways to adjust how you hike the circuit with options for certain route variations or a shortened hiking itinerary.
The development of further hiking routes and infrastructure in the decade since the trail was conceived has given rise to some fantastic alternate routes along some stages that guide you through even more spectacular scenery than the ‘official’ trail and are well worth following.
This allows hikers to really personalise their experience and we made a point of choosing these variations whenever possible.
Most notable are the spectacular paths from Valbona to Çerem via Prosllopit Pass and Borit Pass rather than the official valley road, the short 10-minute climb up Trekufiri or Tromeda between Dobërdol and Milishevc, and the incredible detour to Hajla Peak between Rekë e Allagës and Drelaj which is the absolute highlight of an otherwise monotonous day.
While I strongly believe that the entire circuit is worth doing, for those with less time available to complete the entire 10-day trip, it is also possible to experience the Peaks of the Balkans trail on a shorter itinerary. Some popular options are:
7-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary | Hike Plav – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona – Çerem – Dobërdol, then directly to Babino Polje and finally return to Plav (skipping Milishevc, Rekë e Allagës and Drelaj)
6-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary | Hike Plav – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona – Çerem – Dobërdol, then directly to Plav via Hrid Lake (skipping Milishevc, Rekë e Allagës, Drelaj and Babino Polje)
4-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary | Hike Plav – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona, returning to Plav via the Prosllopit Pass and Bor Pass.
8 | … and some excellent side trips on offer for those with extra time to spare
Alongside the official route, these mountains are simply brimming with epic side quests for those who just can’t get enough.
If you’ve got a few extra days up your sleeve, and your legs are keen to keep moving rather than kick back with a rest day, I’d highly recommend adding a few more adventures away from the classic circuit of which their are countless options.
We added an extra night in Doberdol to allow a full day to climb up Gjeravica, the highest official peak in Kosovo at 2,656m.
The trail is spectacular passing lush meadows blanketed in summer wildflowers and turquoise glacial lakes perfect for a refreshing dip, before climbing steeply to the craggy summit which offers up a panorama of rugged peaks that puncture the horizon in every direction.
It was perhaps my favourite day of the whole trip with some of the best views you’ll find anywhere in the region.
We also added on two nights to visit the incredible Grebaje Valley in Prokletije National Park from Plav. The Three Peaks Hike which takes in Volušnica, Talijanka and Popadijia was another standout, rewarding hikers with views over the phenomenal Karanfili massif.
Other worthwhile additions would be to spend an extra night in:
| Theth to visit the Blue Eye and Grunas Waterfall
| Vusanje to hike to Buni i Jezerce, the Great Valley of Lakes
| Valbone for the climb to spectacular Rosni Peak or Maja Jezerce, the highest peak in the Albanian Alps.
9 | Don’t Write Off the Kosovo Stages too soon
Much of the initial advice we read about hiking the Peaks of the Balkans seemed to suggest that skipping Kosovo meant you wouldn’t miss out on much given the long distances of road walking involved in these stages.
Seeing just how many hikers took this advice without further consideration and opted for a truncated itinerary that left out Kosovo altogether was both very surprising and rather sad.
Having deliberated this ourselves for days and very nearly deciding to forgo Kosovo in favour of more time in Grabaje Valley and Theth, I’m so glad we didn’t and stuck to the full circuit.
Are some sections of the trail more spectacular than others? Yes. Does Kosovo still have plenty to offer? Absolutely.
For anyone on the fence, there are plenty of memorable moments to be had on the Kosovo stages and they’re certainly worth including if you have the time, with a few simple adjustments to the official route.
Don’t miss the magical wildflower displays that surround Roshkodol Pass, a lunch of freshly grilled trout in Rugova Valley, the magnificent views from Tromeda, a well-earned swim beneath forested peaks in Lake Leqinat, and best of all, the climb to Hajla Peak where you’ll find one of the best views of the entire trail.
Furthermore, the guesthouses and hosts found along the route in Kosovo were some of the loveliest and most hospitable of the entire trek, not to mention the fantastic food on offer.
The notable decrease in foot traffic for these stages also meant the trails here were far quieter than those on the rest of the circuit.
10 | Pack as light as you can
As with all long-distance hiking trails, packing light is one of the best things you can do.
The Peaks of the Balkans involves a steep daily ascent often exceeding 1,000m in elevation gain.
The lighter your pack, the happier you’ll be on trail.
Pack only what you’ll need and try to leave all the non-essentials behind. We both carried 35L packs which fit everything perfectly and left just enough room to squeeze in our packed lunches each morning.
Don’t miss these other helpful Peaks of the Balkans travel guides
// A Complete Peaks of the Balkans Trail Guide
// Peaks of the Balkans Border Permits
// Peaks of the Balkans Accommodation
// How Much Does it Cost to Hike the Peaks of the Balkans
// Peaks of the Balkans Packing List (coming soon)
11 | You can drink the water almost everywhere. Avoid it at Dobërdol
Scattered along the trek, you’ll find countless freshwater springs spouting deliciously cold water straight from the mountains. Some are tapped with pipes and burst straight out between the rocks, while others are established stone water fountains.
Many small streams also intersect the path and these are generally fine to drink from at higher altitudes, though keep in mind that there is plenty of livestock roaming about these landscapes.
In general, both springs and streams are reliably marked on maps.me, though some sources are only active in early spring and can dry up over summer.
Refilling at these ice cold springs is a helpful way to cut down on pack weight, though on hot, particularly long days, I’d still recommend bringing as much water as you can so you don’t run out.
The main exception is Doberdol where the water is best avoided altogether.
Here, livestock roam freely across the valley, while some of the village toilets also wash directly into the river which forms the area’s main water source.
We were told that the spring at our guesthouse (Bashkimi) was fine to drink and this did not appear to come from the river, however we still made sure to purify it beforehand and skipped the jugs of water that were provided during meals.
We used Aquatabs Purification Tablets to save on weight, but virtually everyone else on trail used a Squeeze Water Filter.
Thankfully, we didn’t have any issues, though we did meet several people who became ill after leaving Doberdol which can really derail your hike so I’d highly recommend taking precautions during your stay.
Don’t fill up from the river, either filter or purify all water you drink or stick with bottled water while staying in Doberdol.
13 | Definitely Bring Snacks. All the snacks.
Snacks are an essential part of the Peaks of the Balkans experience.
Do not skimp on the snacks.
Though you’ll be incredibly well fed along the trail (I don’t think I’ve ever eaten quite so much food as I did on this trek), it’s worth having a little something on hand for when you reach that high mountain pass and need a well-earned treat, or to tide you over until dinner after a long day on trail.
While still aiming to keep our packs light, we stocked up on mixed nuts and dried fruit, nut and date bars, choc cream wafer biscuits (my new Balkan obsession) and some fruit. You’ll get very little in the way of sweet treats so bringing something fun to celebrate the small wins each day is a good idea.
14 | Don’t Forget these essentials
Aside from clothing, don’t forget to pack these other hiking essentials:
Hiking Poles | Mountain Designs Tread Carbon Trekking Poles (for Aussies), or Black Diamond Trail Trekking Poles
Power Bank | Anker Portable Charger
Solid Hiking Boots | SCARPA Cyrus Mid Hiking Boots
Microfibre Towel | Essential for mountain swims and use at some of the guesthouses. Aim for full size, lightweight and quick dry. See options here.
Guidebook | Cicerone Trekking the Peaks of the Balkans Trail (needs some updates, but used by virtually every English-speaking hiker) or Rother Peaks of the Balkans Guide (for the German-speaking hikers)
First Aid Kit | An essential in every hiker’s pack – don’t forget to bring a fully stocked first aid kit with a minimum of bandages, pain killers, plenty of plasters, blister patches, antiseptic cream, tweezers and oral rehydration salts.
Sunscreen | Neutrogena Beach Defence (SPF 50 / 4 hours for body) and Neutrogena Ultra Sheer (SPF 50 / 4 hours for face). Australia has very strict sunscreen regulations so the same formulas aren’t available internationally, but the products linked are similar.
With extremely hot, sunny weather for most of our hike, we churned through sunscreen and very nearly ran out. Bring more than you think you’ll need (a full bottle is best), broad spectrum with minimum SPF 30 (50+ is best), and a long resistance period (ideally 4 hours).
READ NEXT | My complete Peaks of the Balkans Packing List (coming soon)
15 | Most guesthouses offer full or half board
One of the best part of the Peaks of the Balkans trek is the fantastic food provided by many of the guesthouses.
The vast majority include breakfast with the option to add dinner and/or a packed lunch for a small fee (usually €10 to €20 pp), while other guesthouses roll all accommodation and meal costs together and charge a set rate per person (usually between €30 and €45).
After a long day of hiking, this means you can simply rock up and know you’ll be well taken care of come dinner time.
The exception to this is Plav where most guesthouses only include breakfast. There isn’t a huge choice of restaurants in town but Cafe TIMM located in the centre is a reliable choice for salads, sandwiches, pizza and traditional fare, or for a quick, cheap feed you’ll find a number of Ćevabdžinica serving up cevapi (a grilled, mincemeat sausage) alongside bread and simple salads.
Guesthouses in Theth and Valbona are also not guaranteed to include dinner, though both towns have a couple of small local eateries.
I’d recommend confirming prices and exactly what that includes when booking your accommodation.
READ NEXT | Peaks of the Balkans Accommodation Guide
16 | When to hike the Peaks of the Balkans
Officially, the hiking season in the Accursed Mountains is May to October, however thick snow can linger across many of the high altitude passes well into June making crossing particularly treacherous.
Hikers have died attempting to navigate snowfall along even the most popular stages that are otherwise straightforward so this is not something to take lightly and attempting the circuit earlier than June is not recommended.
Late June through September is the best time to hike the Peaks of the Balkans.
July and August are the hottest and driest months, though you should still expect the rain, thunderstorms and chilly evenings during your trip. Warming weather driven by climate change also means more extreme summer temperatures with sweltering heatwaves above 30°C and icy cold snaps becoming more frequent.
June and September bring cooler temperatures with the possibility of bitterly cold nights so be prepared with warmer clothing and equipment, particularly if you intend to camp at any point on the trail. Brilliant autumn hues will also begin to colour the landscapes by late September and into October.
17 | Spring and Summer are ripe with wildflowers and berries
An absolute highlight of our trek was the magnificent wildflower displays that carpeted the high alpine meadows.
After moving beyond the rocky, initial sections of the trail and heading into the greener landscapes of the central stages, each day brought a new, fantastic explosion of colour, with the mountain slopes streaked in fuchsia, buttercup yellow and violet.
Vasts swathes of vibrant green blueberry bushes also crowd much of the trail, though for the first half of the trek they mocked us with their bare fruitlessness.
But on our final days, as we crossed back onto the western slopes which capture the afternoon sun, these bushes were flush with berries and we spent far too long gorging on handful after handful as we picked out way down the mountain.
To capture the best of both worlds, early to mid July is your best bet, though the wildflowers often arrive in June and the blueberries tend to stick around throughout August.
18 | Charge your devices when you can
All guesthouses we stayed at had electricity, however not all had power available for use at all times.
Some used solar power in the afternoon only and a generator in the evenings, while others just had intermittent electricity.
Be sure to charge your electronics whenever you can, rather than when they’re getting flat.
19 | Keep an eye out for snakes
Not to deter any aspiring PoB hikers, but you’re virtually guaranteed to see a snake or two at some stage along the Peaks of the Balkans trek.
As always, they have no desire to be close to humans and will scatter once they feel you coming. If you do come across one, give them space to move off the path freely before continuing on.
We saw four small snakes during our trip, all along quieter sections of the trail on days that were particularly sunny and warm.
The start of the descent into Rugova Valley (Milishevc to Rekë e Allagës) and the flat, ridge trail between Jelenka Pass and Zavoj Pass (Dobërdol to Milishevc and Drelaj to Babino Polje) are both common sighting locations so pay particularly close attention to your footing along these stretches.
We were also advised that the trail cutting straight through Ropojana Lake can get rather snakey (supposedly some refer to it as ‘snake lake’) though we didn’t see any along this stretch.
20 | Some stages are heavy with tour groups
The Peaks of the Balkans trail is, in general, wonderfully peaceful and, along the quieter stages, it’s not hard to spend hours on trail without meeting another hiker. Here, you’ll mostly encounter solo travellers, pairs, or the occasional small group.
However, along other stages, the trail can become swamped with large tour groups which certainly came as a big surprise to us.
One particular European agency arranges twice weekly tours for up to 40 hikers which complete a truncated 5-day circuit throughout the peak hiking season.
Now, I’m a big believer that everyone has the right to be out in nature and experience the wilderness in their own way, but there’s just no way to miss a rabble of 40 people marching through these landscapes, particularly when they outnumber independent hikers by at least double.
They often congregate in packs which can make overtaking difficult on the tiny forest trails or steep ascents and completely disrupt what would otherwise be a peaceful forest or secluded mountain pass.
Plus, being sandwiched between a swarm of noisy hikers is just not all that pleasant.
In some of the tiny villages, such a large group also puts strain on the limited facilities and resources available, and immense pressure on the guesthouses to cater to such an influx of people.
While there were certainly other tour groups that we encountered along the trek, these tended to be in far smaller groups of around 10 hikers who stuck close together with their guide and were more respectful of their noise levels and others on the trail.
Many of the tour groups tend to hike the same stages – starting from Theth and diverting from Valbona or Doberdol straight to Plav or Vusanje, often skipping out much of Kosovo. By taking any of the less travelled alternate routes, or completing the full circuit, you may be able to avoid these large groups for most of your trip.
21 | Level Of Difficulty And Your Fitness
Prior to the Peaks of the Balkans, the longest multi-day trail I’d ever hiked was four days – the Milford Trek in New Zealand, the Inca Trail in Peru and the Mestia to Ushguli Trek in Georgia.
Despite being experienced hikers, we were slightly concerned about exactly how we’d hold up and whether we’d be able to last the distance over 14 days.
So, how difficult is the hike really?
The days range from 13 km to 24 km hiked each day (usually around 7 or 8 hours) often with at least 1,000 m of ascent and descent.
Based on what we had read, we were expecting a few 10 and 11 hour days on trail which thankfully never eventuated. The terrain was also more favourable, following mostly well-trodden paths rather than exposed rocky ridgelines.
Overall, we were actually pleasantly surprised and found the hike to be less challenging than we anticipated.
However, that’s not to say it isn’t a challenge and each person’s experience will be highly subjective.
I’m also of the opinion that most hiking (or any endurance activity for that matter) is as much an exercise in mental resilience as it is a physical feat and, not to get too cheesy, but a positive attitude, patience, confidence and perseverance go a long way.
Individually, no day is specifically difficult – they’re mostly moderate with some short difficult sections that are particularly steep – however compounding long days on trail, day-after-day does take its toll and should not be underestimated.
In terms of difficulty, most of the trail involves straightforward hiking with a substantial ascent and descent each day. There are very few sections that are exposed or require some degree of rock scrambling and these are generally short and manageable for anyone with hiking experience.
There are several long descents along rocky, sometimes slippery paths that are more technical and which I personally find most challenging, but where hiking poles are a godsend.
Your fitness will improve quickly over the course of the hike but having a reasonable level of physical fitness, strength and stamina from the start will greatly increase your enjoyment of the whole experience. As will being comfortable in your boots and backpack.
If you’re not someone who exercises on a regular basis, I’d highly recommend hitting the trails and doing some training as preparation in the weeks leading up to your hike.
READ NEXT | A Complete Peaks of the Balkans Trail Guide
22 | The Balkan bear situation
Bear chat was an almost daily occurrence along the trail, with theories on the best escape strategies and bear call impressions often shared over the dinner table.
So just how worried do you need to be?
The European brown bear is found in small numbers across the entire Balkan peninsular with an estimated population of around 700 spread across Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo, including in the Accursed Mountains.
Bears have an extraordinary sense of smell and are wary of humans – most often if the wind is in your favour, they’ll detect you coming and take steps to keep their distance.
It is exceptionally rare for hikers to encounter bears along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
That said, while you may not actually see them, it is possible that you might hear them.
If you do hear a bear, make loud noises – shout, talk loudly or clap your hands – to announce your presence while you continue walking. This will avoid startling them and give the bear an opportunity to move off.
If you see a bear, do not run! There’s some good advice about how best to respond depending on the scenario on this website.
23 | What Exactly Are The Accursed Mountains
The Accursed Mountains refer to the mountain range that rises up across northeast Montenegro, northern Albania and southwest Kosovo. They also form the southernmost section of the Dinaric Alps which extend along the Balkan Peninsular between Slovenia and Albania.
The soaring landscapes of the Accursed Mountains also make it the highest region of the Dinaric Alps where 9 of the 10 tallest peaks of the entire range are found. Albania’s Maja e Jezercës, which is accessible from the Valbona Valley, takes the crown as the highest peak.
Each country has a designated national park to preserve the nature of their section of the Accursed Mountains – Bjeshkët e Nemuna National Park in Kosovo, Prokletije National Park in Montenegro (which both translate to ‘accursed mountains’) and the newly established Alps of Albania National Park in Albania which combines the former Theth and Valbona Valley National Parks.
The Peaks of the Balkans trail passes through all three national parks as you make your way across the entire 10-day circuit.
24 | Clockwise vs Anti-clockwise
For most hikers, it’s a no brainer.
The route was designed to be hiked anti-clockwise and that is the direction that virtually every hiker goes without question.
While there are potential pros and cons to hiking either way, the level of ascent, terrain and sense of community are big reasons to stick with the standard anti-clockwise direction.
As the trail stands, there are some ascents that are particularly steep and rocky, and while they are somewhat difficult going up, they’d be a downright nightmare trying to go down.
But, perhaps the best endorsement for heading anti-clockwise is the people you’ll meet.
By going with the grain, you’ll end up crossing paths with the same folks day after day – particularly the few that complete the full circuit – which builds a great sense of camaraderie on the trail.
Everyone hikes their own hike, but at the end of it, it’s fun to come together over dinner and swap stories of the day gone by.
25 | Should You join a tour or go with a guide
The short answer is no, a guide or tour are not strictly needed for the Peaks of the Balkans.
If you’re an experienced hiker and confident with navigation and carrying a pack, it’s entirely manageable to arrange and complete the Peaks of the Balkans trek independently.
Personally, this allowed us the flexibility to plan the exact trip and itinerary that we wanted and hike each day at our own pace and schedule.
For those that would prefer to have someone else take care of the logistics, several tour companies offer set Peaks of the Balkans itineraries (usually varying from 5 to 10 days) and can arrange all of your accommodation, as well as provide maps and transport information, allowing you to complete a self-guided tour without any of the organisational hassle.
Group or private tours are also common along the Peaks of the Balkans with many operators offering specialised services that cater to certain languages, demographics, levels of comfort and route variations.
Many also offer packages that can include baggage transport, camping vs luxury accommodation, airport pick up and direct transfers, and transfers to attractions away from the official trail.
These are particularly popular among solo hikers looking to have company along the trail or those with limited hiking experience that are keen for extra support.
As mentioned above, some tour groups are exceedingly large, and personally I feel this would severely detract from the experience. If you are leaning towards a group tour, I’d highly recommend checking the maximum group number and opting for a smaller operation that can offer a more personalised experience and the best opportunity to enjoy the serenity of these spectacular mountains.
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