Peaks of the Balkans: A Complete Trail Guide to the Epic Accursed Mountains Hike

26 July 2024.

The Peaks of the Balkans is an epic multi-day hike leading through the spectacular Accursed Mountains of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. This comprehensive trail guide covers everything you need to know to plan your trip. 

The Balkans are home to many spectacular mountain ranges, but perhaps none so wild and remote, so diverse and storied as the humbling Accursed Mountains that form the natural border between Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo.

In an effort to foster unity between these once war-torn nations, the Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail was conceived just over a decade ago as a singular collaborative operation.

Though ethnic tensions still remain along parts of the border, along with hundreds of concrete bunkers that lie scattered across these landscapes, this once isolated and little-visited enclave of Europe is now experiencing a boom in tourism with the call of the mountains proving to be among the biggest attractions.

Spanning 192 kilometres and best completed over 10 stages, the trail itself is spectacular, bringing you from ancient beech forests to hilltop meadows blanketed in wildflowers, deep valleys to narrow mountain passes dwarfed beneath stark rocky cliffs, tiny middle-of-nowhere villages to rapidly-changing mountain towns, and high alpine lakes to soaring peaks that reward hikers with some of the best views you’ll find anywhere this side of Europe.

Though it is well worth hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail in its entirety, there are many ways to alter the official route to curate your own perfect hiking experience. Whether that’s opting for a shorter itinerary, adding on additional days to tackle a one-day hike away from the official circuit or factoring in a few rest days to enjoy the blissful tranquility that these mountains afford.

After extensive research and much to-and-fro-ing, we settled on a 14-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary that included the full circuit, a few route variations, and three additional days to explore some of the majestic peaks that lie off the traditional route.

Suffice to say, I loved everything about this adventure, and while we were initially concerned how we’d hold up against 14 days and over 200 kilometres of hiking in the the searing summer heat, once on trail it was a fantastic and rewarding experience where those carefully made decisions from months prior felt like exactly the right ones.

Ready to plan your own incredible Peaks of the Balkans trek? I’ve outlined all the nitty gritty details of our trip below, including our full day-by-day itinerary and trail guide, top tips for the route, where to find the absolute best views and all our lessons learned to help you plan the best hike possible.

It’s a monster of a post so buckle up and settle in with a cup of tea. Lets go!

But before diving in, don’t miss these other helpful Peaks of the Balkans travel guides:

// 25 Incredibly Helpful Things to Know for the Peaks of the Balkans Trail

// Peaks of the Balkans Border Permits

// Peaks of the Balkans Accommodation

// How Much Does it Cost to Hike the Peaks of the Balkans

// Peaks of the Balkans Packing List (coming soon)

Perhaps the biggest decisions you’ll need to make when planning your Peaks of the Balkans hike is exactly where you’re going to start.

If you’re already travelling in the region, this may be an obvious choice depending on which country you’re in or the direction you’re travelling, but for most visitors, the starting point will often be determined by which airport has the best flight connections and whether you have plans for onward travel in the region.

Albania  |  Theth or Valbona

In Albania, the best starting points are the villages of Theth or Valbona which are both located right along the Peaks of the Balkans trail and are easily accessible by public transport.

Tirana International Airport is well connected to the rest of Europe with regular, direct and affordable flights to key transport hubs across the continent.

Located in the north of Albania on the shores of Lake Skadar, Shkodra is the gateway town for the Albanian Alps and most visitors will need to stop here on their way to either Theth or Valbona. It’s also a lovely little town to while away a couple of days before or after your hike if you’ve got the time – think cute cafes, hilltop castle ruins and colourful, cobbled streets (read this guide for the best things to do in Shkodra).

From the New Regional Bus Station in Tirana, buses depart for Shkodra every half hour (500 lek/€5, 2 hours). As of 2024, there is also a new bus directly from Tirana Airport to Shkodra which departs four times a day (€10 to €15, 2 hours). Check timetable here, though take these times with a grain of salt, particularly if travelling out of season.

Given the excellent flight connections, Theth has quickly become the most popular starting point for the Peaks of the Balkans circuit and offers the chance to explore many of the shorter trails on offer in Theth Valley before or after your trek, such as the Blue Eye or Grunas Waterfall.

Minivans depart Shkodra for Theth every morning at 7 a.m. which can be arranged directly by your guesthouse (€10, 2 hours).

For Valbona, the most scenic route is via the stunning Komani Lake. Minivans depart Shkodra at 6:30 a.m. every day for Koman where you can transfer to the Komani Lake Ferry for the beautiful ride through the fjord. At Fierze on the other side, another minibus will drive you the rest of the way to Valbona, often dropping you directly at your guesthouse. Total trip takes at least 5 hours and costs €26 or more depending on the ferry.

Montenegro  |   Plav

For Montenegro, you’ll begin the trek in Plav which is the only town along the Montenegrin stages of the route that is easily accessible by public transport. This is where we began the trek.

Montenegro has two international airports located in Podgorica and Tivat which are also well connected to the rest of Europe, though some destinations only have flights once or twice a week or involve a stop over.

Of all the starting points, Plav is the easiest to reach and the most popular after Theth.

In fact, if you were to arrive on a morning flight to Podgorica, take a taxi from the airport to the centre and jump on a bus to Plav, you can easily arrive by the afternoon ready to hit the trail the following morning.

Several direct buses depart from Podgorica Bus Station for Plav each day (€13, 4 hours). Check the timetable here.

Kosovo  |  Rugova Valley or Rekë e Allagës

For Kosovo, the best starting points are the Rugova Valley which lies part way along the stage between Milishevc and Rekë e Allagës, or Rekë e Allagës itself.

Prishtina International Airport offers fewer connections that it’s neighbours, particularly if you’re arriving from western Europe, however there are some convenient options.

From Prishtina Bus Station, there are frequent departures for Peja (€5, 90 minutes), from where you can take one of two daily buses to the Rugova Valley (€5, 1 hour). Check the timetable here.

To continue on to Rekë e Allagës, you’ll need to complete the stage on foot with a gradual 6km climb along the asphalt road.

Officially, the Peaks of the Balkans is a 192 kilometre circular hiking trail designed to be completed over 10 days or stages with approximately equal time spent in each of the three countries – 4 nights in Albania and 3 nights in both Montenegro and Kosovo.

That said, this region is ripe for exploration with countless other hiking trail on offer for keen hikers.

This means that many of the official stages are linked by interconnecting trails which makes it easy to create a shorter circuit, or for those interested in extending their trip, it’s also possible to add on additional days to explore further afield, bag a few extra peaks or enjoy the many spectacular day hikes on offer before returning back to the official route.

After hours of research, pouring over guidebooks, blog posts and online resources, we settled on a 14-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary which included the official 10-day circuit with some route variations (all outlined below), as well as an extra day in Dobërdol to hike up Gjeravica, the highest peak in Kosovo, and two extra days in the spectacular Grebaje Valley to enjoy more of Prokletije National Park in Montenegro.

Though there are many ways to experience the trail, we felt like we ended up with the perfect itinerary for us and felt vindicated by many of the drawn out decisions made several months earlier – the trip length, the fantastic side trips and trail variations, the accommodation, and most importantly, completing the entire circuit including Kosovo which sadly many people skip altogether.

However, for those with less time to spare or hesitant to spend ten days on foot, it is certainly possible to create a shorter itinerary.

Some popular options are:

7-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary  |  Hike Plav – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona – Çerem – Dobërdol, then directly to Babino Polje followed by Plav (skipping Milishevc, Rekë e Allagës and Drelaj)

6-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary  |  Hike Plav – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona – Çerem – Dobërdol, then directly to Plav via Hrid Lake (skipping Milishevc, Rekë e Allagës, Drelaj and Babino Polje)

4-day Peaks of the Balkans itinerary  |  Hike Plav – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona, returning to Plav via the Prosllopit Pass and Bor Pass.

//     Officially, the full 10-day Peaks of the Balkans trail is 192 km, however, we found several discrepancies between the distances listed online for each stage and the reality on trail.

In total, this itinerary and trail guide described below covers 182 kilometres of hiking along the official route including our chosen route variations (Prosllopit Pass and Hajla Peak), as well as 32 km on side trails away from the main circuit (Gjeravica Peak and Grebaje Valley).

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//     Some villages along the route sprawl on for several kilometres and the location of your guesthouse can therefore greatly affect how far you’re walking each day. The hiking distances listed throughout this guide are from door to door, based on the guesthouse recommended for each stage.

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//     The listed durations cover the full day of hiking, including all breaks. While how long you stop for on trail is a personal choice, this should give you a good estimate of what time you can expect to arrive to camp at the end of each day.

We prefer to power up the hills in the morning and hike at a reasonably steady pace to beat the heat of the day, while still making plenty of time for photo stops, water breaks, and one or two long (30 to 90 minute) breaks each day for lunch and the all important snacks. Accounting for all this, we were often at least an hour faster than our guidebooks recommended hiking time which did not include breaks, so I’d suggest considering your own walking pace when referring to these numbers.

//     Every single stage involves a steep ascent and descent. The elevations listed below include the highest and lowest points for each day, rather than the actual levels of ascent/descent.

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//     As is to be expected in a region that is rapidly changing, a lot of the information provided on the Peaks of the Balkans trail – both online and in print – we found to be fairly out of date. Some sections of once obscure path have been maintained and remarked, guesthouses have long since closed and new ones opened, paths have been rerouted to follow a better gradient or find a better view. A healthy dose of flexibility during the trek is essential and you’ll see that sometimes taking the ‘official’ route isn’t always possible.

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//     Each stage of the official circuit is considered to have a moderate level of difficulty with some short stretches that can be considered difficult.

Aside from clothing, don’t forget to bring these key items for your hike:

Hiking Poles   |   A god send for the daily steep descent, this hike was the first time I’d ever used hiking poles and I’m an absolute convert. Mountain Designs Tread Carbon Trekking Poles (for Aussies), or Black Diamond Trail Trekking Poles

Power Bank   |   Essential for keeping your devices charged during long trail days or when the power goes out at the guesthouse. Anker Portable Charger

Solid Hiking Boots   |   I’ve had these mid-height gore tex boots for years now and still love them. SCARPA Cyrus Mid Hiking Boots

Microfibre Towel   |   Essential for mountain swims and use at some of the guesthouses. Aim for full size, lightweight and quick dry. See options here.

Guidebook   |   Cicerone Trekking the Peaks of the Balkans Trail (needs some updates, but used by virtually every English-speaking hiker) or Rother Peaks of the Balkans Guide (for the German-speaking hikers).

First Aid Kit   |   An essential in every hiker’s pack – don’t forget to bring a fully stocked kit with a minimum of bandages, pain killers, plenty of plasters, blister patches, antiseptic cream, tweezers and oral rehydration salts.

Sunscreen   |    With hot, sunny weather for most of our hike, we very nearly ran out of sunscreen. Bring more than you think you’ll need and aim for broad spectrum with minimum SPF 30 (50+ is best) and a long resistance period (ideally 4 hours).

I use Neutrogena Beach Defence (SPF 50 / 4 hours for body) and Neutrogena Ultra Sheer (SPF 50 / 4 hours for face). Australia has very strict sunscreen regulations so the same formulas aren’t available internationally, but the products linked are similar.

Water Filter / Purification   |  For those Doberdol days, a reliable way to purify or filter your drinking water is essential. I use Aquatabs purification tablets to save on weight, but virtually everyone else on trail used a Squeeze Water Filter.

READ NEXT   |   Peaks of the Balkans Packing List (coming soon)

A day-by-day breakdown of our entire 14-day Peaks of the Balkans hiking itinerary, including distances, hiking times and accommodation recommendations.

#1 Podgorica to Plav – Travel Day   //
Guesthouse Erdan   //   Ema Apartments 

#2 Plav to Vusanje – 21 km   //   7 hrs   //
Guesthouse Kollata

#3 Vusanje to Theth – 24 km   //   8 hrs   //
Bujtina Tinari   //   Bujtina Pllumi

#4  Theth to Valbona – 18 km   //   8 hrs   //
Bujtina Valbone   //   Villas Jezerca   //   Bujtina Izet Selimaj 

#5 Valbona to Çerem via Prosllopit Pass – 13 km   //   7.5 hrs   //
Guesthouse Kujtim Gocaj   //   VITA Guesthouse

#6 Çerem to Dobërdol – 17 km   //   5.5 hrs   //
Bashkimi Guesthouse

#7 Dobërdol to Gjeravica to Dobërdol – 18.6 km   //   8 hrs   //
Bashkimi Guesthouse

#8 Dobërdol to Milishevc – 24 km   //   8 hrs   //
Chalet Rrusta

#9 Milishevc to Rekë e Allagës – 16 km   //   7.25 hrs   //
Ariu Guesthouse

#10 Rekë e Allagës to Drelaj via Hajla – 15 km   //   7 hrs   //
Shquiponja Guesthouse   //   Bujtina Kaçaku  

#11 Drelaj to Babino Polje (with transfer to Restaurant te Liqeni)- 13 km   //   6.5 hrs   //
Triangle Woodhouse

#12 Babino Polje to Plav (with transfer to Grebaje Valley) – 21 km   //   7 hrs   //
Bungalows Prokletije (Grebaje Valley)   //   Ema Apartments   (Plav)

#13 Grebaje Valley to Talijanka – 10 km   //   5 hrs   //
Bungalows Prokletije

#14 Grebaje Valley to Podgorica – Travel Day   //
Terminus Hotel

Below is a Peaks of the Balkans map indicating the exact route that we took, including all alternate routes and side trips (aside from Grebaje Valley).

The official map following the standard route can be found here.

With my sister, who joined me for the hike, arriving on a late evening flight, and myself travelling in by train from the coast, we needed to spend one night in Podgorica before beginning our journey to Plav the following day.

After a lovely buffet breakfast at the hotel, we jumped on a morning bus to Plav which allowed a full afternoon to arrange our border permits, stock up on supplies, pack and repack our backpacks, finish downloading all the weather apps and gpx tracks we’d need for the trip and get our bearings in town so we could hit the ground the following day.

If you’re applying for your border permits independently, be sure to allow enough time in Plav to collect the permit and pay the fee from the Border Police Headquarters. Read this guide on the Peaks of the Balkans Border Permits for all the details.

Once you’re all set, be sure to take a stroll down to the shores or pontoon of Lake Plav which is a beautiful place to watch the sunset.

For those beginning their hike in Montenegro, most visitors will need to spend at least one night in Podgorica either at the start or end of the trip.

STAY  |

Hotel Terminus   |   A convenient option in central Podgorica located right next to the bus station. Rooms are comfortable with a decent buffet breakfast included and the helpful staff are able to arrange airport transfers for guests. Check rates and availability here.

TRAVEL   |

There are several daily buses bound for Plav, departing Podgorica Bus Station every few hours (€13, 4 hours). Both full-size and minibuses ply the route and tickets can be purchased at the ticket office inside the bus station. Some drivers also charge a €1 baggage fee to stow your luggage. Check the timetable here.

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STAY   |

There are plenty of accommodation options in Plav, either concentrated around the lake or at the opposite end of town near the Peaks of the Balkans trail. Most options are family-run and occupy the same building as the family home.

Guesthouse Erdan   |   Opting to be close to the trailhead, we stayed at this comfortable, budget-friendly guesthouse which is located just half a block off the main trail. The family offer two spacious private rooms upstairs with a shared bathroom and include a home-cooked breakfast. They can also store any extra luggage for you during the trek. Check rates and availability here.

Ema Apartments  |  If you’d prefer to be close to the lake and bus station, Ema Apartments offers modern, beautifully appointed rooms equipped with a kitchenette and ensuite set just back from the lake. Enjoy access to the outdoor terrace with a backdrop of Prokletije’s spectacular peaks. Check rates and availability here.

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EAT   |

The food scene in Plav leaves a bit to be desired, with seemingly endless coffee shops but very few actual restaurants. Cafe TIMM, located in the heart of town, is a reliable choice for salads, sandwiches, pizza and traditional fare. For quick, cheap feeds you’ll find a number of Ćevabdžinica serving up cevapi (a grilled, mincemeat sausage) alongside bread and simple salads. Ćevabdžinica Izvor is a popular choice located right on the Peaks of the Balkans trail.

There are also plenty of excellent bakeries or pekara in town where you’ll find fresh bread, burek and pastries, or for produce, you’ll find a pair of fruit and veg stands near the Čaršija / Podnogradska intersection.

Stock up with snacks and supplies for lunch at the local supermarkets – Voli and Idea are located opposite each other in the centre of town.

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TOP TIPS   |

Plav is home to the only ATM on the trail – be sure you’ve withdrawn enough cash to last for your entire hike. Read more on how much to budget for the trip in this post.

Supermarkets across Montenegro are closed on Sundays and major public holidays, some of which fall during the peak hiking season (13/14 July and 15 August) which may be shifted to the Monday if on a weekend. Be sure to factor this into your plans.

Distance   |   21km

Duration   |   7 hours

Highlights   |   Borit Peak, Bor Peak, Ropojana Valley

Elevation   |   952m to 2,093m

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After months of anticipation, we gobbled down breakfast, filled up our water bottles, finished a final check of our bags and were raring to hit the mountains for day one.

Conveniently, our guesthouse was located right near the Peaks of the Balkans route so before long we were navigating through the outskirts of town towards the gravel road that would be our companion for the next few hours.

If you’re starting from the lake area, head up the main street and turn right at the roundabout where you’ll see the red and white bullseye symbol painted on the lamp post and some yellow trail signs at the next intersection.

Leaving the asphalt behind, the dirt road begins to climb steadily above town, offering up splendid views across the blue expanse of Lake Plav nestled at the foot of Mt. Visitor, before being engulfed in pine forests.

Around half an hour into the hike, you’ll likely be intercepted by a national parks officer who waits along the roadside collecting the Prokletije National Park entrance fee from passing hikers.

After about 2 hours of steady uphill, there’s a gap in the trees where you can catch a glimpse down the valley towards Gusinje and the mouth of the Ropojana and Grebaje Valleys.

Onwards, turn left at the unmarked (and easy to miss) fork in the road which climbs towards a lovely open meadow where distant peaks fringe the horizon – a nod at what’s to come in the days ahead.

With the steepest climb of the day still to come, this makes a perfect spot for a water break.

From here, the trail is very overgrown, unclear and poorly marked until you approach the saddle beneath Borit Peak. At the back of the meadow, turn right and trudge over flattened grass and across a small stream, continuing gradually uphill until the path becomes clearer and pitches steeply upwards.

At the saddle, veer left and push on up the incredibly steep section that leads to Borit Peak covering 130m of elevation in less than 300m.

It’s a tough slog, in full midday sun and there’s a bit of scrambling involved, but rest assured that this is the steepest and (for me) hardest ascent of the trek which feels pretty darn good to get out of the way on the first day.

Finally clambering into the shaded grove that marks the small summit, I was seriously wondering what on earth I had got myself into. But after a water break and a crisp apple, I was ready to hit the trail again, following the clear path across the lush grassy ridgeline towards the highest point of the day – Bor Peak.

The peak marks the perfect spot for a well-earned lunch break, but unfortunately, a large tour group of 40 strong hikers had monopolised the summit, so we ended up shuffling further down the trail to a peaceful rocky outcrop that offered up equally spectacular views.

Off to the right, the rocky massif that separates the Ropojana and Grebaja Valleys rears up impressively, while Kollata and the Prosllopit Pass that leads the way to the Valbona Valley looms up ahead.

Now, based on everything we had read, today was expected to be the hardest of the trek with a whopping 28 km on trail, an incredibly steep ascent and a stifling summer heat wave to contend with.

However, on reaching Bor Peak after 4 hours, we were both bewildered and delighted to find just 8 km remaining, making a far more manageable 21 km day of hiking. I’m not quite sure where the widely cited 28 km figure comes from – no matter how we looked at the route and possible variations we couldn’t find an explanation – but 21 km seems to be the correct distance currently for this stage.

We sure weren’t complaining!

After a decent break, it’s thankfully all downhill to Vusanje.

Continue along the ridgeline, passing between two small lakes with the rocky Bor Pass looming ahead. You’ll see the trail veering to the right on the slope below and there are a few faint shortcuts that cut the corner, but continue onto the main intersection of the trail before cutting back.

After 1km of occasionally steep, rocky trail, you’ll return to the gravel road which meanders down the hillside with intermittent trees offering up some desperately needed shade from the blistering sun. A few minutes further will bring you to a small roadside cafe if you’re keen for a coffee or cold drink.

From here, it’s a bit over an hour downhill to Vusanje with the asphalt road arriving for the final 1.5 km and some spectacular views down the Ropojana Valley visible from the road just above town.

STAY |

Guesthouse Kollata   |   We stayed at this simple, family-run guesthouse which is located close to the trail and one of the first options you pass on the way into town. Private rooms in the main house have a shared bathroom, while the garden chalet has private facilities. Hearty meals are available and served on the terrace with lovely views towards the valley. Check rates and availability here.

Riverside Guesthouse   |   Set about 2 km further from the trail down the valley, Riverside has a beautiful setting with spacious rooms that include private bathrooms. Guests gush about the food and helpful hosts who can also arrange a jeep transfer if you intend to cut out any of the road walking on the way to or from Vusanje. Check rates and availability.

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FEES  |

€3 per person for entry to Prokletije National Park, or €13.50 for an annual pass which covers all national parks in Montenegro.

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TOP TIPS  |

Despite many springs and a waterfall being marked on our map along the gravel road section above Plav, these were all dried up during our visit. Don’t rely on them for water during summer.

Vusanje holds a spectacular location at the mouth of the Ropojana Valley where the Grla River originates. If you’re keen to bag a few more kilometers after a long day, head into town to check out the mighty Grla Waterfall. Surprisingly, the falls drop behind the precipice so can only be viewed from the viewpoint above as it tumbles into the canyon.

You’ll pass the waterfall tomorrow morning anyway, but cooling your feet in the icy river is a real treat after a sweaty hike, and the afternoon light streaming through the valley is simply gorgeous.

Distance   |   24 km

Duration   |   8 hours

Highlights   |   Oko Skakavice, Ropojana Valley, Peja Pass, Dinner at Bujtina Tinari

Elevation   |   728m to 1,784m

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Making an early start, we set off beneath grey skies that became increasingly more threatening as the day went on, casting an eerie gloom across the rugged peaks that tower above the Ropojana Valley.

After days of intense heat, a brewing thunderstorm was due to hit around late morning, exactly when we’d be approaching the Peja Pass. Along with most others on the trail, we decided to push on as fast as we could in the hopes of making it over the highest point in time, or seeking out shelter if the storm arrived earlier than expected.

From Vusanje, the asphalt road leads past Grla Waterfall (be sure to take a look if you haven’t already) before returning to the gravel track which forks to the left.

After just 1.5km, don’t miss the tiny trail veering off to the right which leads to the mesmerising blue pool of Oko Skakavice – the Eye of the Grasshopper – which is fed by an underground spring. The water is an incredible shade of blue and looks as if it could be a portal to another world.

If we weren’t in such a hurry to beat the storm, or were hiking in the opposite direction, this would be a wonderful place to spend a bit more time or even take a cheeky dip.

About 10 minutes further along the road you’ll arrive at the next entry point for Prokletije National Park where you’ll need to pay the daily entrance fee.

The dirt road continues on for some 3 km, meandering through lush beech forest as you make your way deeper into the valley, before veering right onto a small, easy-to-miss forest trail which emerges above the sprawling Ropojana Lake.

Though seasonal and these days rarely filled with water, walking across the lake beneath the soaring cliffs that rise into dramatic spires of rock is among the most incredible moments of the entire Peaks of the Balkans trek.

There’s a path that hangs left and sticks to the upper bank, or a trail that heads straight through the middle of the dried up lake, both meeting at the opposite end.

After being told by a fellow hiker that this place is nicknamed ‘snake lake’, supposedly for the many snakes that frequent the lower trail, we chose the higher path, however most other hikers ploughed straight through the middle and, on a day when the sky was becoming increasingly menacing, snakes were really the least of our worries.

At the far end of the lake, a small podium with a faded red and black eagle crest marks the border crossing into Albania.

From here, the trail climbs steadily towards Peja Pass (Qafa e Pejës) in three distinct ‘steps’ starting with a steep switchback trail through verdant forest which leads to a beautiful grassy meadow bound by conifers.

We stopped here for a quick snack and water break, before pushing on across the flat grassy fields that sprawl across this first step – a welcome reprieve after steep the uphill climb.

Soon enough, it was time to begin the next ascent which cuts around the left of another basin along a rocky trail towards the next rise.

Here, our gpx trail continued straight ahead over the crest, however the path was barely visible and most other hikers instead veered right across the valley following a much better established path. Needless to say, we followed suit.

Onwards, the path cuts across the right slope of another depression and if you look back you’ll notice a concrete bunker built into the grassy hillside in the middle of the valley.

By this point the wind was picking up and the first low grumbles of thunder were threatening in the distance. We strongly debated heading back to the shelter of the bunker, but instead pushed on (big mistake!) and got caught in the storm as we crossed the next rise.

Lightening flashed across the sky and thunder cracked overhead breaking any illusion that we still had enough time to reach the pass which was painfully close up ahead.

Torrential rain and hail hammered down, arriving on cue with the thunder. With the wind now threatening to blow us right off the trail with each step, we crouched down in a ditch just off the path and huddled up while the worst of the storm passed.

Now, I really wouldn’t recommend going out hiking in a storm, certainly not anywhere exposed and at altitude, but this is almost an inevitable part of the Peaks of the Balkans trek, and unless you’re incredibly lucky with the whether, you’re probably going to get caught in a storm sooner or later.

Some stages do offer a less scenic, lower altitude routes which would be the safer option in the event of poor weather, but sometimes, you’ll just have to do your best to pick the timing, push on and shelter where you can.

Once the rain eased and the claps of thunder moved into the distance, we gathered ourselves to move on and the tiny figure-eight shape of rocky Peja Lake (Liqeni i Peja) sprang into view over the next rise, with Peja Pass finally in reach on the opposite side.

The path wraps around the slope to the right of the lake before climbing steeply for the final ascent to the pass which cuts between a narrow rocky channel from where the sweeping Theth Valley unfolds majestically before you.

From Vusanje, it’s around 4.5 hours to reach the crossing at Peja Pass.

From here, it’s a long, steady descent along a steep, rocky trail which switches back and forth as you make your way into the valley, offering up breathtaking views for much of the way. Walking poles are a good idea for this stretch.

About half an hour from the pass, there’s a shallow cave in the cliff face which is a popular stopping point.

Otherwise, you’ll soon return to the shelter of the trees before the trail flattens out and rejoins the rocky road which hugs the river and will guide you the rest of the way into Theth. About an hour before you reach the village centre, there’s also a popular cafe alongside the road which can arrange a taxi into town for those keen to skip straight to their guesthouse.

Despite being a very wet and miserable day weather-wise, the scenery along this stage is remarkable and certainly makes it a top contender for one of the best days of the entire Peaks of the Balkans trail.

After drying off, we headed out for a short stroll around town, stopping by the charming Theth Church, the Tower and the river, as well as munching our way through many of the plums that were fruiting on the trees that line the rambling laneways.

STAY  |

Bujtina Tinari   |  One of my favourite guesthouses of the entire trip, top-rated Tinari is an absolute gem. We stayed in the cute and cosy top floor room with an ensuite and a balcony that overlooked the valley. Dinner here is exceptional with tiny plates of delicious, traditional food that just seem to keep coming – perfect after a long and very soggy day of hiking. Highly recommend! Check rates and availability here.

Bujtina Pllumi   |  Another highly rated option in Theth, Pllumi is located on the hillside behind Tinari and receives rave reviews about the delicious home-cooked meals that use all local produce, wonderful mountain views, comfortable rooms and friendly hosts. Check rates and availability here.

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FEES  |

€3 per person for entry to Prokletije National Park, or €13.50 for an annual pass which covers all national parks in Montenegro.

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TOP TIP  |

Unlike most of the villages scattered along the Peaks of the Balkans which are reasonably compact, Theth and Valbona are spread out over many kilometres. When booking your accommodation, this is important to consider as it can quickly add unnecessary time to your hike if you have to walk a long way off trail to reach your guesthouse.

We opted to stay closer to the ‘centre’ of Theth rather than right beside the trail and were happy with this decision, but it did mean an extra 1.5km to end the stage from Vusanje and start the route to Valbona.

For Theth, also be careful to choose somewhere on the east side of the river.

Distance   |   18 km

Duration   |   8 hours

Highlights   |   Theth Valley, Valbona Pass, Valbona Valley

Elevation   |   728 m to 1,805 m

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Hiking this exact stage between Theth and Valbona back in 2018 and seeing the tiny and, at the time, brand new trail placards pinned onto the trees, was the seed that would grow into me finally returning to complete the full Peaks of the Balkans trail in 2024.

Despite being familiar with the trail, and more recently with the view from Valbona Pass that it is so frequently plastered across Instagram, it still managed to blow me away all over again.

As one of the shorter days of the hike, we allowed ourselves a little sleep in and enjoyed the trail at a much slower pace than usual (the trail can be done in 6 hours at a faster pace), with me finding it near impossible to put away my camera.

Setting off in still soggy boots, we retraced our footsteps to the corner cafe and trail sign at the edge of town that marks the official start of the stage and veered right up the hill along the gravel road which we’d follow for the next hour as it climbs higher up the hillside, providing some fantastic viewpoints across the valley.

Finally, the road transitions into a small forest trail which meanders steeply through leafy beech forests and an open meadow before crossing over a small stream and arriving at a large mountain cafe which sits about two thirds of the way up.

Onwards, the trail continues its steep trajectory upwards, eventually emerging above the tree line, with some steep drop offs beside the path on the final approach to Valbona Pass (Qafa e Valbonës).

Once up top, be sure to scramble up the rocky trail on the right of the pass to the ridgeline and further onto the craggy outcrop on the left for the best vantage point.

The uninterrupted views from up here are phenomenal – taking in the sweeping Valbona and Theth Valleys that fall away sharply on either side of the pass flanked by rugged peaks wrapped in low slung cloud.

It’s no surprise this has quickly become Albania’s most popular day hike.

Valbona Pass, or better, the ridgeline above it, is an exceptional spot for lunch, though it can get rather chilly if the wind picks up. We spent well over an hour here soaking up the magnificent views.

After the relative quiet of the previous days, those hiking the Peaks of the Balkans will quickly notice that this stage sees far more foot traffic than any other, with Valbona Pass in particular being the single most chaotic point on the entire trail.

A constant conveyor belt of hikers, horses and dogs arriving from either side of the ridge, scrambling over and around each other on the narrow passages in competition for the best vantage points.

It’s also become increasingly popular to simply hike up from Theth and then head back down the same way which thankfully means the Valbona side does see slightly less foot traffic and makes for a quieter afternoon of hiking.

From Valbona Pass, head left along the rocky trail which cuts across the hillside with sheer cliffs soaring overhead and an array of wildflowers fringing the trail on your right.

The path descends gradually into the valley via a series of long switchbacks and this is another good opportunity to whip out your hiking poles if you have them. It’s a long, sometimes slow descent but after about 90 minutes the trail begins to flatten out and you’ll reach the first of several cafes located alongside the trail in Valbona Valley just before Rragam.

We stopped here for a coffee (rather pricey for Albania at €3) before pushing on through some lovely patches of forest and farmland that lead to a white pebble road etched into the dry river bed that marks the valley floor.

After a couple of kilometres, you’ll reach the asphalt road that feeds through the sprawling village of Valbona, nestled beneath the staggering peaks of the Valbona Valley.

Though the village extends for more than 8 km with many fantastic guesthouses to choose from, we opted to stay as close to the trailhead as possible for the stage to Çerem which meant another 4km of road walking from here.

If you choose to stay at a closer guesthouse, keep in mind this may add about an hour of walking the following day, unless you arrange for a taxi to drop you near the trailhead.

STAY  |

Bujtina Valbonë  |  This beautiful mountain chalet offers modern and cosy private rooms that feel that little bit more luxurious than your average guesthouse – a wonderful treat after some of the more basic accommodation found along the trail.

It’s also just 700m from the trailhead for Çerem via Prosllopit Pass making it perfect to hit the trail the following morning. Most rooms offer mountain views and breakfast is included, but you’ll most often have to go elsewhere for dinner. The only small downside is that it sits right next to the enormous resort. Check rates and availability here.

Villas Jezerca  |  Just a short way down the road, the large property of top-rated Villas Jezerca is even closer to the trailhead and offers a range of cosy cabins that face directly onto the mountains and plenty of outdoor space to kick back and enjoy the views. While we didn’t stay here, we did enjoy an excellent traditional dinner at their restaurant. Check rates and availability here.

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TOP TIP   |

If you’re taking the alternate route to Çerem over the magical Prosllopit Pass, I’d recommend choosing accommodation close to the start of this trail.

Many popular and top-rated accommodation options in Valbona (such as Guesthouse Mehmeti) lie well beyond this intersection. While this is an excellent choice if you’re hiking the official route along the road to Cerem, for Prosllopit Pass you’ll need to backtrack a few kilometres, adding almost an hour to the hike overall.

Distance   |   13km

Duration   |   7.5 hours

Highlights   |   Prosllopit Pass, Kollata massif

Elevation   |   925 m to 2,030 m

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One of our favourite days of the Peaks of the Balkans trail, don’t even think about skipping the route variation that leads to Çerem (pronounced che-rem) via the Prosllopit Pass.

While the official route largely follows a dirt road through the valley which will bring you to Cerem in about 4 hours, parts of the road are heavily damaged and, by all accounts, it’s rather uninspiring.

It also means you’ll miss being amongst the incredible peaks that line the face of Valbona Valley.

Setting off, walk the short distance (or long depending on where you’re staying) along the asphalt road through Valbona, cross over the bridge to the left and immediately take the tiny, scramble of a path through the rocks on your right.

There’s an old wooden information panel for Kollata Peak (Maja e Kollatës) at the intersection which is marked by a yellow and red stripe trail marker that also indicates the way to Prosllopit Pass.

The trail here is very easy to miss but is marked on maps.me and becomes clear as soon as you reach the top of the rise where it heads straight into the forest. If you miss the path, the dirt road continues on and, after a right turn, will eventually join up with the trail at the red and white tower above.

For the next 1.5 hours, the trail climbs steeply and steadily, weaving through beautiful ancient beech trees where you’ll catch glimpses of the Valbona Valley unfolding below.

Clouds drift across the sky revealing ever more of the wildly impressive Kollata massif soaring overhead. It’s impossible not to feel like an insignificant speck as you pass through these humbling landscapes, dwarfed by the staggering peaks that tower above the pass.

At the top of the first rise you’ll find a flat grassy meadow – a decent spot for a break – before continuing the climb through the forest. Meandering through these ancient trees is remarkably peaceful and, despite the relentless uphill, this is a rather magical section of the hike.

Emerging above the tree line, the landscapes open up into a wide grassy basin peppered with white rocks, wildflowers and some enormous boulders which guide you over a few false summits on the final stretch to Prosllopit Pass.

Flanked by green slopes that climb into mighty Zla Kollata ahead, Maje e Thate behind, and the many craggy peaks that form the massif, the entire morning’s hike represents a magnificent part of the Peaks of the Balkans trail.

After 3.5 hours, Prosllopit Pass makes a great spot for a break before crossing the border back into Montenegro and descending to Bor Pass.

While the path is clear, there are a few sections that require some rock scrambling to get down. Keep an eye out for Ledena Pecina – a ground level cave on the left of the path which is said to hold snow year round and emanates an icy blast as soon as you approach.

A large meadow scattered with tall yellow wildflowers marks the Bor Pass intersection from where you can gaze across Prokletije National Park towards Bor Peak and the ridgeline followed just a few days earlier.

It’s an easy final climb to Borit Pass which brings you back into Albania for the 2 hour descent into Cerem.

A short way down from the pass is a small summer katun where you can enjoy a coffee, mountain tea or glass of homemade yoghurt and honey with blueberries in season (€1 to €2). The owner will likely call out to you on the trail as you pass.

The final section of the hike continues across open meadows and farmlands before returning to the forest.

The descent is mostly gradual but there are some very steep sections as well as a few small stream crossings which can get rather muddy. Some parts of the trail are also less clear and it’s easy to be diverted down the wrong path if you’re not paying attention so be sure to keep an eye on your map at each intersection.

When you reach the dirt road that wraps around the fringes of Cerem, turn left and you’ll immediately arrive at Guesthouse Kujtim Gocaj.

STAY  |

Guesthouse Kujtim Gocaj  |  Perfectly located on the hillside above the village right alongside the trail as you come down from Prosllopit Pass, this guesthouse is the first one you come to and exactly where you start from the following day. Guests can choose from the old house or new house (€35 or €45 as of 2024) with the new wooden house offering basic private rooms with an ensuite and all meals included. Be sure to bring your own towel. Contact via Facebook or email.

Vita Guesthouse  |  For those taking the valley road from Valbona, Vita Guesthouse is a popular choice and well situated along the trail. The main house has comfortable rooms with a shared bathroom, while the brand new slightly pricier bungalows include an ensuite. Guests love the excellent, traditional meals served here and the friendly host. Check rates and availability here.

Distance   |   17 km

Duration   |   5.5 hours

Highlights   |   Views of Kollata massif

Elevation   |   1,187 m to 1,930 m

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On any multi-day circuit that traverses truly incredible scenery, it is inevitable that some days are just going to be less spectacular than others.

Following some of the most incredible days of the entire Peaks of the Balkans trip, the Cerem to Doberdol stage was just that, perfectly picturesque and with some epic views across the Kollata massif as you climb above Cerem, but overall, perhaps not quite as impressive as the days that preceded it.

With this being the shortest and comparatively easiest day of the trek, and also marking the halfway point of the the circuit, we used this as an opportunity to have a proper afternoon off to rest in Doberdol, do all of our laundry and reset for the days ahead.

From Guesthouse Kujtim Gocaj, turn right straight out the gate and head along the dirt road which climbs above town and offers up exceptional views looking back across the Valbona Valley and its striking peaks.

Being met by rather cloudy skies the day before, this was the first time we were able to see the dramatic Kollata massif in all its glory – and the views only get better the higher you go.

If you’re staying closer to the valley floor, the official trail cuts through forest and intersects with the road further above the village.

Just over an hour into the hike, and a short way beyond this intersection, you’ll pass a modern, slightly out of place viewing platform – one of many examples of EU support for tourism development in the region. It’s a decent spot to stop for a quick break, but the views are actually better if you continue higher up the hill.

Onwards, veer left at the hairpin bend to arrive at the border podium that marks your return to Montenegro for a short stint. Head right along the small trail which quickly enters the forest and climbs gradually towards the Aljuci Pass via a beautiful flower-strewn hilltop meadow with views over the surrounding mountains.

You’ll pass several ice cold springs along this stretch where I’d suggest filling up with water while you can.

Over the Aljuci Pass, there’s a small shelter on the far side of the plateau where we stopped for our morning snack after nearly 3 hours on trail. If you’re hankering for a coffee or tea, you can also push on to the small settlement of Balqin which lies about half an hour further along.

For here, the trail follows the contours of the mountain, staying high above the valley floor and meandering between forests, pretty meadows and summer farmsteads, descending gradually before a final steep ascent – a slight punish after an otherwise relaxing afternoon of hiking.

Along the way, you’ll be afforded wonderful views across the forested folds of the valley and catch glimpses of Doberdol in the distance (the orange wood and green roofs of Bashkimi are very distinct), nestled below the impressive green slopes of Trekufiri Peak, also know as Tromeda – the summit where the borders intersect between Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro.

There are a number of small streams along this final section, but after hearing of so many hikers becoming ill from the water in and around Doberdol and seeing plenty of livestock roaming about, we avoided filling up anywhere on this side of the mountain.

At the top of the final rise, you’ll round the bend and the village will once again spring into view, sprawled across a lush green bowl beneath the mountains.

STAY  |

While the quality of the Peaks of the Balkans accommodation is generally excellent – particularly given the far flung location of so many of the mountain villages – Doberdol is especially remote and options are more on the basic side so don’t expect much in the way of creature comforts here.

Bashkimi Guesthouse  |  Widely regarded as the best of the bunch in Doberdol, Bashkimi sits at the top of the hill as you come into the village. Bungalows are spartan but the blankets are thick and beds comfortable enough. Thankfully, there are hot showers but it’s squat toilets only out here.

Rooms are not all that well insulated and the nights can be particularly chilly, but there is a heated sitting room which makes a cosy spot to while away the time in the evenings. Meals are plentiful and varied. Be sure to arrive on time (or even early) as sometimes dinner is served ahead of schedule and you wouldn’t want to miss out.  Contact via Facebook or email.

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TOP TIP  |

It’s not recommended to drink the water in Dobërdol (read this post for more tips) and it’s a big reason why many hikers become sick when passing through. Although we were told the water from the fountain at Bashkimi was fine to drink, we, and most others, took the precaution of purifying or filtering the water anyway. We used Aquatabs, but virtually everyone else on trail used a squeeze water filter.

There’s often no electricity (or wifi) in the morning but they do turn on a generator in the afternoon so be sure to charge all your devices and do any research you may need when you arrive.

Distance   |   18.6 km

Duration   |   7 to 9 hours

Highlights   |   Wildflowers, Liqeni i Zemrës, Gjeravica Summit

Elevation   |   1,789 m to 2,629 m

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Another top contender for my favourite day on the Peaks of the Balkans, Gjeravica makes a fantastic side trip off the official route and I’d highly recommend adding it to your itinerary if you’ve got a free day to spare.

Plus, a day spent without having to carry a full pack is a real treat.

Now, the trail to Gjeravica is clear and easy to follow once you’ve found it, but the path isn’t marked or sign posted from Doberdol and it’s the ‘finding it’ part that poses something of a challenge.

Peeling out of the village and up the valley is a maze of dirt roads that criss cross the green landscapes, making it hard to even follow on the map which track you’re on.

Initially, we stuck along the wrong dirt road for far too long and ended up having to scramble up the grassy slope near the ravine in search of the correct path.

To avoid the same mistake, head up the valley along the main, most distinct dirt road, cross the river and continue past the beautiful two-story stone house, keeping to the left of the small grassy hill.

About 1.2km from Bashkimi Guesthouse, a pair of very faint tyre tracks veer off this dirt road on the left (located here) and become a faint grass trail after about 700m and eventually a more distinct dirt path.

Once you’ve found it, it should be smooth sailing from here.

The trail hugs the left wall of the valley, passing a few summer settlements and a herd of horses over on the right slope, and skirting alongside a shallow ravine before climbing steeply via rocky switchbacks toward the Ali Peja Pass.

This ridgeline can be reached in about an hour from Doberdol and marks the border with Kosovo, welcoming you with stunning views over the opposite bank.

From Ali Peja Pass, continue right across a grassy slope and around the bend in the hillside where a tiny algae covered lake comes into view and the triangular peak of Gjeravica is revealed up head.

Painted in brilliant shamrock green and carpeted in wildflowers, the scenery here is just lovely, rolling into layers of forested peaks and craggy ridgelines that unfold across Kosovo’s Bjeshkët e Nemuna National Park and usher in the greener side of the Accursed Mountains which we’ll become all too familiar with in the coming days.

Onwards, through meadows strewn with lichen-covered boulders and streaked with tiny, undulating streams still savouring the last of the winter’s snowmelt, the next bend brings the heart-shaped Zemra Lake (Liqeni i Zemrës) into view.

Crystal clear and shimmering blue in the sunshine, it’s a wonderfully inviting spot for a refreshing dip, but we push on, promising to make the most of it on our return journey.

Above the lake, the path zigzags up the hillside towards the next ridgeline with the occasional steep drop off. Over the top, two small and equally inviting lakes mark the rocky basin below Gjeravica which now looms straight ahead.

The path sticks close along the ridge with some scrambling required to cross a section of rockfall, before arriving at the trail’s only signpost.

From here, the trail skirts along the top of the bowl, becoming increasingly steep and rocky as you approach the summit which can be reached in about 30 minutes.

Without a doubt, this is one of the best views you’ll see anywhere in the region and certainly along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.

On a clear day, you’ll be welcomed with 360 degrees of panoramic views across the entire Accursed Mountains range, extending to the stark peaks of Valbona Valley and the Kollata massif, the mouth of the Ropojana Valley way in the distance, the tiny green cap of Bor Peak, the sheer table top of Hajla Peak and the sprawling lowlands of Kosovo.

Essentially giving a birds eye view of exactly where we’d hiked and were still to hike across the Peaks of the Balkans route.

Further afield to the south, the majestic peaks that straddle the border between Kosovo and North Macedonia are also visible, piercing the distant clouds.

For the return journey to Doberdol, follow the exact way you came.

It’s a bit of a rocky scramble to get down from the summit, and again from Ali Pasha Pass (hiking poles at the ready once again) , but thankfully most of the way is downhill or along the flat for the rest of the day.

Don’t miss an opportunity for a delightful mountain swim at the lake on your way back. We enjoyed a relaxing, if a little breezy, break here, gliding through the cool water and basking in the afternoon sun to dry off, before heading back down to Doberdol.

The recommended hiking time for Gjeravica Peak from Doberdol is 4 hours up and 3 hours down (7 hours total hiking time), however there are many beautiful places along the way where it pays to linger a little longer.

For those keen to avoid backtracking to Doberdol via the same route, it’s also possible to instead divert to Gacaferi Guesthouse from Ali Peja Pass which sits on the opposite side of the ridge. From here, you can rejoin the official PoB trail the following day via Bogice Pass (Qafa Bogićes).

Distance   |   18 km / 24 km

Duration   |   8 hours

Highlights   |   Trekufiri / Tromeda Peak, wildflowers, Roshkodol Pass

Elevation   |   1,723 m to 2,253 m

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One of the longest and most beautiful days on the Peaks of the Balkans, the stage from Dobërdol to Milishevc (also spelled Mileševac) officially brings you into the Kosovo portion of the trek.

It is also perhaps the least straightforward stage of the lot.

Up until this point, our guidebook – used by the vast majority of hikers on trail – and gpx track had been mostly reliable and consistent, but this stage was an absolute shambles when it came to discrepancies between the route description and the actual trail.

Apparently, there are some changes planned for this stage which has, for the moment, created two options for hikers for the second half of the day.

The ‘official’ route is shorter at 18 km but has a significant descent followed by another steep climb as you move through the valley around Roshkodol, as well as plenty of road walking, while the ‘not so official’ alternate route which many local guides recommend is longer at 24 km but follows the ridgeline and a narrow forest trail high across the hillside, maintaining its altitude for much of the way.

We unknowingly (and unexpectedly) ended up hiking the latter route and, despite some significant issues and challenges with way finding along some sections, we much preferred this trail overall which saved us plenty of unnecessary elevation loss and provided much-needed shade from the blazing afternoon sun.

To start the day, cross over the river using the charming covered bridge just upstream from Bashkimi and head straight up the steep slope that forms the left wall of Doberdol’s valley, keeping to the left of the fence line. There’s no path initially, but if you head for the ridge just below and to the left of Tromeda, you should join a clear rocky trail about half way up.

It’s a tough slog up a ridiculously steep incline and you’ll be drenched in sweat in seconds – but I promise, it’s absolutely worth it.

From the ridgeline, catch your breath, gulp down some water and continue right along the obvious trail that cuts along the base of the peak to the shelter visible on the opposite ridge.

Though many hikers seem to attempt the climb up Tromeda from any old point – the official trail and easiest way up is from this shelter where the trail veers uphill on the right and brings you to the summit in about 15 minutes.

The views from up top are magnificent and if you’re not hiking Gjeravica – Tromeda is the next best option.

Standing at the intersection of all three country borders, forested mountains carved by dirt roads and speckled with tiny shepherds huts roll into the distance, while the snow-streaked massif beyond pierces the sky, giving rise to the highest peaks of the the Accursed Mountains and indeed, the entire range of the Dinaric Alps.

After a snack break in the shade of a rocky outcrop at Roshkodol Pass, we continue downhill to the left, crossing a pair of pretty streams before following the ridge all the way to Zavoj Pass. A shelter here with picturesque views on either side, and most importantly some shade, makes this an excellent spot for lunch after 4.5 hours on trail.

Now, if you’d prefer to stick to the ‘official’ route, just below Roshkodol Pass you’ll see a faint grass trail heading off to the right which is the one you want. This traces the valley floor as you descend towards Roshkodol village, sticking alongside the river for much for the way and following a long section of dirt road before you reach a final, grueling ascent which brings you to the hilltop junction just before Milishevc.

From Zavoj Pass, take the path to the right which crosses a lush hillside spotted with fur trees, blueberry shrubs and an array of colourful wildflowers.

It’s worth noting that this is the same stretch of trail that you’ll cover on the stage between Drelaj and Babino Polje and a rare opportunity to bump into hikers arriving from the opposite direction.

About 30 minutes further along, you’ll reach a signposted intersection which is where our guidebook (and the yellow, slightly worse-for-wear trail sign) suggested we turn right. However, the tiny path here was deliberately blocked by tree branches and didn’t exist at all on our online map.

Instead, we continued a few hundred metres further around Maja e Bajrakut to the next signpost which sits beside a small reed-filled lake on the edge of the hill above Roshkodol village and where we could at least see a feasible trail on our map.

Now, this is where the tricky part begins so prepare to be glued to your map to ensure you’re still travelling in the right direction.

From here, the path is clearly visible on maps.me if you navigate directly to Milishevc which lies 5.5 kilometres away, but in reality some sections are very faint and it’s all too easy to walk straight past your turn off.

From the ridge, veer right down the hill which skirts between some trees and emerges into an open meadow. An obvious trail continues straight ahead, but instead you need to turn left along a faint grass trail after just 230 metres, then cut right and left again which should bring you into the forest.

Confusingly on the map, these look like obvious switchbacks with no other intersecting trails, yet other, better established paths do exist here that are simply not shown on the map making navigating far more challenging in reality that it really ought to be.

Once amongst the trees, the trail does become more clear and you’ll cross a pair of streams and begin to see intermittent trail markers along the way. From here on, the way does remain reasonably straightforward, however there are some overgrown sections where you’ll need to push through shrubbery or hanging branches.

Just keep an eye on your map and trust the process.

As our route description insisted that we were meant to be heading into the valley through Roshkodol village, we were slightly concerned that this trail was essentially flat and remained high up on the hillside meandering through the forest, but with each way marker bringing a tiny boost of confidence, in the end it seemed fortuitous to end up here, with the added bonus of skipping the steep descent of the official route.

After about an hour, the trees begin to peter out and you’ll arrive on the open grassy hilltop of Kryqit Pass (Qafa e Kryqit) which is not labelled on maps.me but is marked with another yellow signpost. A new gravel road heads downhill from here which you can thankfully follow the rest of the way to Milishevc.

In some areas it may look like you’re deviating away from the trail on the map, but the road will take you where you need to go.

Finally, after another 20 minutes, you’ll reach the last junction above Milishevc where there are some new wooden bungalows and a large information panel. Continue straight over the rise, following the road through the meadow and slightly downhill to reach the wonderful Chalet Rrusta in 800m which is clearly signposted along the road.

After an absolutely spectacular morning, the afternoon was marred by the frustrating final hours where incorrect signage, unclear paths and minimal trail markings made for plenty of navigational challenges during the hottest part of the afternoon, not to mention the additional 6 km that were added on by taking the alternate route.

In short, we were pretty buggered by the time we arrived, but nothing a pot of freshly brewed mountain tea, a hot shower and one of the best meals of the trip couldn’t solve.

STAY  |

Chalet Rrusta   |  I had so many people recommend Chalet Rrusta to me and it was one of the cosiest places we stayed along the hike and excellent value too. The dinner was generous, completely delicious (definitely the best soup of the trip!) and included little cakes for dessert which was a nice touch.

The hosts were also lovely and the whole house was quaint, homely and comfortable. There are just two private rooms with shared bathrooms, or three shared rooms also with a shared bathroom, though a new building is under construction for next summer planned to provide further private accommodation. Contact via Facebook, WhatsApp or email.

Distance   |   16 km

Duration   |   7.25 hours

Highlights   |   Rugova Valley, Waterfall Trail

Elevation   |   897 m to 2,133 m

—

After one of the longest days of the hike, a short, comparatively easy day was just the ticket.

From Chalet Rrusta, turn right along the dirt road and cross the stream. After 500m you should see the red and white arrow marker on the large rock ahead directing you left up a faint path through the grass.

The way, which is mostly a trail of flattened grass, climbs up the hillside with a pair of long switchbacks marked by new wooden poles painted with red and white trail markers. The clumps of grass are somewhat unstable underfoot, but the way is easy enough to follow.

Thankfully, today’s stage has one of the shortest climbs of the trail though it does get very steep in parts.

After 1.5 km, you’ll join a clear rocky path which continues over the crest where you’ll be greeted with beautiful vistas across the green landscapes that surround Milishevc. With the steep ascent complete, the trail descends slightly, looping around the left of a vibrant green basin and up the rise on the far side where Lumbardhi Lake (Liqeni i Lumbardhit) comes into view.

Following the sheer joy that was swimming in Zemra Lake, we had high hopes for another refreshing morning dip here. Sadly, there was only disappointment as we came over the rise to find a shallow, muddy pond occupied by a herd of cows.

In theory, the shelter on the far bank also looks like a decent spot for a break, but it was buzzing with a swarm of March flies and surrounded by trash which sent us on our way.

Pushing on from the lake and across a grassy hilltop, the path pitches down to begin the long, steep descent into the Rugova Valley.

Funneling between low lying shrubs and patches of yellow wildflowers, the narrow trail is rocky and muddy to start off with and the smoothed black rocks are particularly slippery underfoot. Dappled with morning sunlight, it was also along this section where we (and other hikers we met) saw two snakes in quick succession close to the top of the hill so be sure to keep your eyes on the path.

The terrain improves as you head further into the forest and after about half an hour you’ll reach the dirt road which continues for the next 2 km.

The road appears to be newly cut and makes for a very scrappy walking track – it’s incredibly steep in parts, strewn with clumps of torn bark and loose rocks with several side roads that veer off only to rejoin again a few hundred metres further along.

Shortly after passing a house on the right, the road veers sharply to left. Rather than taking the turn, instead follow the tiny, barely-there path which heads straight ahead across a grassy patch and disappears into the forest.

Winding very steeply down to the Rugova Valley (poles out for this bit), this final stretch follows a leafy trail through the shade of the beech forest and is clearly marked until you reach the valley floor.

It’s slow going in parts, but once you reach the steady switchback and begin to hear the sound of traffic wafting through the trees, you’ll know you’re nearly there.

For today, we decided to skip the lunch packets and treat ourselves to a slow, lazy feast of freshly grilled trout and an enormous salad, in the Rugova Valley.

Once you reach the road, turn left and you’ll immediately arrive at Rugova Camp for a well-earned break beside the river.

After a long lunch, it was all too difficult to pull ourselves away and continue along the final stretch of the hike which covers 6 km of uphill walking along the asphalt road to Rekë e Allagës. There’s no pavement but thankfully there’s also very little traffic.

After 20 minutes, turn right at the bridge to cross the river and 10 minutes later you’ll pass the lush Waterfall Trail.

You’ll immediately notice the cool air emanating from the trees – a wonderful change from the stifling heat of the road. The short trail, only 230 m long, hugs the river which is crowded with greenery and climbs past two waterfalls via a series of wooden bridges and rocky stairs.

It’s a beautiful stop on your way up the monotonous hill and well worth the short detour.

Onwards up the road, you’ll pass a collection of guesthouses and local restaurants before arriving at an intersection that diverts to the two sides of the village – a large and busy signpost points the direction of most accommodation options in town.

For Ariu Guesthouse, turn left and continue up the final steep push that brings you towards the village, following the signposts along the dirt road for the rest of the way.

STAY  |

Ariu Guesthouse  |  Perfectly situated right beside the trail, Ariu is set in a large double story house with several simple but comfortable rooms for guests and a shared bathroom on each floor.

The family are warm and welcoming (speaking German and limited English), meals are excellent – the burek and traditional peppers cooked in garlicky cream sauce are particularly good – and there’s a nice outdoor seating area to relax in the afternoon. Contact via WhatsApp or Facebook (we found they were more responsive on WhatsApp).

NOTE  |  Panorama Hostel (not to be confused with Hotel Panorama in Rugove) is somewhere I saw widely recommended for Reke e Allages, both in guidebooks and online. Having read some fairly concerning reviews from the past year while researching for the trip, and meeting fellow hikers who had their reservations cancelled last minute or had horror stories of their own, I would really suggest avoiding the place, particularly for solo female travellers.

Distance   |   15 km (10 km for the official route)

Duration   |   7 hours

Highlights   |   Hajla Peak

Elevation   |   1,100 m to 2,388 m

—

Though not on the official circuit, if you’re a keen hiker, Hajla Peak should absolutely be added to your Peaks of the Balkans itinerary.

Arriving to the summit without another soul in sight and the green mountains falling away sharply on either side felt like being on top of the world. A definite highlight of the trip and far and away the best part of what is otherwise a short and uninspiring day of hiking.

Honestly, I can’t fathom why this wasn’t included as part of the route to begin with.

Hit the road directly behind Ariu to join the narrow trail which climbs through grasslands and scraggly bracket with glimpses of Hajla looming ahead. After about half an hour, you’ll return to the dirt road flanked by pine forest and continue toward a vast grassy plateau.

On the right, a clear rocky outcrop offers great views looking back across the Rugova Valley and the remarkable shelf of Guri i Kuq and, if you’re lucky, you can forage for blueberries from the cluster of bushes nearby.

Onwards, you’ll pass an Albanian flag pole and arrive at a shelter that marks the Gjonit Pass intersection after just an hour on the trail.

For those sticking with the official route, the road to the left will take you directly to Drelaj.

Otherwise, cross over the road and continue up the grassy slope between the trees, some of which are amusingly labelled with Sasquatch warnings.

Less than 2 hours from Reke e Allages, you’ll arrive amongst the open pastures that sprawl out at the base of the the peak and reach another signposted junction sometimes referred to as Hajla Pass or Qafa e Hajles.

Hajla Peak is best climbed in an anti-clockwise loop which follows the entire, spectacular spine of the summit, before returning back to this same junction and rejoining the main Peaks of the Balkans track.

Beyond the signpost is a water trough where the trail for Hajla veers right to begin the circuit, climbing steadily up a grassy, mostly clear path, until you reach the far cliff line which overlooks the lush Rugova Valley and surrounding countryside.

Continuing back to the left, the trail pitches steeply upwards towards the craggy ridgeline that marks the rugged border with Montenegro.

As you approach the crest the trail disappears completely, however red and white flag tape has been tied intermittently around rocks and branches to help lead the way until the way markers reappear along with the path across the ridge.

The trail scuttles along Hajla’s rocky spine for about 700m before arriving at the official summit following a clear trail, though there are one or two exposed sections with sheer drops and some rock scrambling required.

It’s mostly straightforward, but worth keeping in mind if you’re nervous around heights.

Impressive views are a constant as you scoot along the ridgeline, but the final vistas as you step onto the peak are phenomenal, with endless mountains piercing the sky in the distance – extending as far as Gjeravica, Ropojana and Komovi – and sheer cliffs plunging into the lush foothills that sprawl across Montenegro.

Joined by just one other hiker, we spent a good hour enjoying the tranquility here, gobbling down snacks and reminiscing on the now familiar peaks that rose up in the distance.

After the throngs of tour groups we experienced in the earlier stages, the serious lack of hikers here and along all the Kosovo stages was a refreshing change and we relished in the solitude.

To get down, continue straight along the ridge where the rocks end to rejoin the grassy slope. From here, the path descends gradually in a wide switchback through blankets of wildflowers bringing you back to the junction below.

Lunch break excluded, the entire circuit took us less than 2 hours from this intersection.

Now, to return to the main Peaks of the Balkans trail, I’d recommend going back the way you came to rejoin the road at Gjonit Pass. We followed a trail marked on maps.me that looked like an easy shortcut from the nearby mountain chalet but, while it started out as a gentle descent, we were soon scrambling down a small cliff and traipsing through knee deep grass.

Back on the dirt road, it’s an easy, gradual 2 hour march all the way to Drelaj.

Follow along for 2.8 km to Pepaj (also spelled Pepici) where you’ll meet the asphalt road – be sure to fill up at the deliciously cold water spring along the way.

At the main, heavily signposted Pepaj intersection, turn left and after 150m, turn right down the dirt track which joins up with the asphalt road below. This is not the official route and some gpx tracks will take you the long way round, but this shortcut saves you about 1.5 km of unnecessary road walking.

Head left again and after 500 m the asphalt peters out into a rough, grassy dirt road that eventually becomes a rocky path which meanders through the forest – a much more pleasant experience than we had expected based on the route description.

Just above Drelaj, you’ll emerge back on the asphalt road. Turn right here and follow this the rest of the way into town.

For Shqiponja Guesthouse, head right again just before the mosque and continue down the leafy road lined with lush fruit trees and apiaries.

STAY  |

Shqiponja Guesthouse  |  Set in a lovely lush garden fringed in fruit trees, Shqiponja is the perfect mountain sanctuary after a long day of hiking. Rooms are simple but comfortable with a shared bathroom and once again the food was excellent, often portioned out per pair of guests. The host is also able to provide transport to Restaurant Te Liqeni the following morning for an additional €10 / €15 per person / pair. Contact via Facebook or WhatsApp.

Bujtina Kaçaku  |  Another top-rated option in Drelaj, Kaçaku sits right beside the road as you enter town. Though we didn’t stay here, it looks like a beautiful spot with a spacious balcony to enjoy the mountain vistas. Contact via Facebook.

—

TOP TIP  |

Officially, this stage ends in Kuqishtë, however much of the remainder of the route follows the road uphill through forest and farmland via the village of Dugaive, before crossing the new highway and beginning a punishing climb up a series of steep switchbacks along asphalt road to Restaurant Te Liqueni.

It’s a popular option to skip this 13 km stretch with a transfer, though we did meet other hikers who used a mix of hitchhiking and walking. After much research, we decided to skip this section too in favour of adding the spectacular hike to Hajla and after driving the steep road (see next stage), we’re convinced this was the right decision.

Distance   |   13 km

Duration   |   6.5 hours

Highlights   |   Lake Leqinat, Jelenka Pass, wildflowers and foraging for blueberries

Elevation   |   1,524 m to 2,264 m

—

Cruising directly to the trailhead from Drelaj and skipping out a 13 km chunk of steep road walking is certainly a winning way to start the day. We were all feeling rather smug when our host dropped us right at the edge of the forest near Restaurant Te Liqeni to begin our shortest day in terms of distance of the Peaks of the Balkans trail.

For the first ascent of the day, the trail immediately begins its climb through the thick coniferous forest that wraps around the base of Mount Leqinat, before emerging on an open slope scattered with boulders and shrubbery.

Don’t forget to look back for views toward the flat-topped spine of Hajla.

Over the rise, the still, green pool of Lake Leqinat (known also as Liqeni i Kuqishtës) is revealed below, encircled in forest and the rocky cliffs of Malji Nečinat.

After just 45 minutes on trail, we weren’t going to pass up the opportunity for a refreshing morning dip. Keep an eye out for the intriguing newts that inhabit these waters and many of the glacial lakes that are scattered across the Balkans.

Pushing on, the well-trodden trail continues through the forest with cables provided along one short strip where the path is especially narrow and slightly unstable.

Continue past a cute grass-covered A-frame guesthouse and camping area that sits amongst a tranquil clearing beside a freshwater spring, towards the second lake of the day, Lake Drelaj, which was all but dried up during our visit.

Skirting around the left of the basin to begin the gradual climb towards Jelenka Pass, the scenery becomes increasingly impressive with forested slopes and stark rocky outcrops flanking the trail.

Looming ahead is the knobbly rock face of Liqenati, and beyond, the sheer cliffs of the lower southwestern face of the Guri i Kuq plateau (also known as Zuti Kamen) will soon come into view.

Following the trail over a distinct rise and around another grassy depression, you’ll approach the head of the valley about 45 minutes from Lake Leqinat.

Here, the path splits with an obvious, signposted trail continuing straight ahead beneath a wall of rugged cliffs and a faint, grass trail veering off to the right.

Frustratingly, no helpful Peaks of the Balkans locations are mentioned on the signage here and a lot of hikers miss this intersection and end up on the wrong side of the mountain so be sure to stick right to remain on the correct trail.

The final push to Jelenka Pass is simply beautiful and was carpeted with magenta wildflowers during our hike.

Don’t forget to look back for impressive views of the rock face which borders the shelf of Guri i Kuq. Also keep an eye out for the impressive natural arch in the cliff face.

Jelenka marks the highest point along the official Peaks of the Balkans trail and the final border crossing of the hike as you move back into Montenegro and the familiar landscapes covered earlier in the trek.

From here, the long descent begins to Babino Polje with the trail pitching gradually down as you cross the grassy hillside, rejoining the path hiked on day 8 on the opposite ridgeline at the junction where you would have turned off for Milishevc.

Follow the mostly flat ridge trail which straddles the border all the way to the shelter at Zavoj Pass which, once again, makes an excellent stop for lunch.

For much of the trek, lush blueberry shrubs had teased us from the sidelines, crowding trails and blanketing hillsides along many stages of the hike with no fruit in sight.

But to our immense delight, as we set off down the hill from Zavoj with views of the majestic Kollata massif peeking over the horizon, we found countless bushes flush with tiny purple berries.

For the next hour, we enjoyed an absolute feast, stopping every few steps to collect a another handful, staining our fingers purple and plastering big dopey grins across our faces.

In fact, we were so engrossed in our foraging that we very nearly missed the next turn off altogether.

This certainly slowed our pace as well and we spent far too long (or not long enough!) picking amongst the bushes, so if you’re not visiting at this time of year when blueberries prove to be the best type of distraction, you can expect to have a slightly faster day of hiking.

About 1 km from Zavoj, you’ll cross a small stream and about 100m further along, take the tiny trail veering off to the right – keep an eye out of the Peaks of the Balkan plaque and trail marker on the rock peaking out of the bushes.

For the next kilometre, a clear trail descends steadily above the small farms of Babino Polje and you’ll pass a detailed trail sign, but the path quickly deteriorates from here as it veers sharply downhill past the wooden house with the beautiful solitary tree.

Vague and very steep paths of flattened grass criss cross the hillside – none are particularly clear or in good condition – eventually joining at a dirt track which flattens along the gravel road.

A clear path is shown on maps.me which we aimed to stick to as much as possible, but given the terrible state of the path, its best to just navigate down what appears to be the most manageable route across the steep incline. This is another stretch where hiking poles are a godsend.

At the bottom of the grass slope, continue winding through fields and past a farm house towards the bridge, cross the river and follow the road the rest of the way through the village.

TRAVEL   |

Keen to complete the full Peaks of the Balkans circuit, we were hesitant to miss out on such a long section of trail between Drelaj and Kuqishtë to begin the day, but after speaking with fellow hikers who did follow the trail, and driving up the steep road ourselves that leads to Restaurant te Liqeni, we’re happy to confirm that the transfer is well worth it, particularly if you’re adding on the extra kilometres to head up Hajla the day before.

Ilir from Shqiponja Guesthouse can transport guests for €10 per person or €15 per couple, as will most other guesthouses located in Drelaj. You can also (in theory) arrange a taxi though we didn’t see any about in the village.

We did meet other hikers who hitchhiked along this stretch and managed to get a ride quickly so this is another feasible option, if you’re comfortable with the risks it presents.

—

STAY  |

Triangle Woodhouse  |  A favourite among hikers arriving in Babino Polje, Triangle Woodhouse offers a variety of simple rooms with a shared bathroom and guests rave about the homemade meals provided by the passionate host. As you pass through the village, the guesthouse is located 300m beyond the turn off for the trail to Plav. Check rates and accommodation here.

We actually stayed at different top-rated guesthouse which we had mixed feelings about, but if we were to do the hike again, I’d opt for Triangle Woodhouse instead.

—

TOP TIP   |

Electricity and therefore hot water is intermittent in the village. This is also the only village where there both wifi and phone signal are non-existent.

Distance   |   21 km

Duration   |   7 hours

Highlights   |   Hrid Lake

Elevation   |   938 m to 2,051 m

—

After 10 phenomenal days of hiking, it was bittersweet to arrive at the final stage of the Peaks of the Balkans trail.

But, with the most beautiful lake of the trip still to come and a celebratory iced coffee waiting for us in Plav, we were raring to hit the trail for the last official day of the route.

Thankfully, the stage from Babino Polje to Plav is one of the best marked of the entire trek and one of very few days you could feasibly get by navigating purely with signage and trail markers. Along the first section, there are regular signs directing you towards Hridsko Jezero – the glorious Hrid Lake.

Much like our first day, the last begins along a gravel road which climbs gradually uphill through coniferous forest, soon passing the hilltop settlements of Kolashinski Katun, and further along Bajrovica Katun.

Here, the trail veers left off the gravel road up a less obvious grass track marked by signs.

Heading back into the forest, the narrow well-trodden path climbs for a further 3 km, eventually crossing a small stream and passing a stagnant pond before rounding the bend and arriving at the shores of magical Hrid Lake, just 2 hours from Babino Polje.

Fringed in spiky trees that cast a perfect reflection across the still water, a morning swim in the deliciously cool water is without a doubt another trail highlight.

Said to bring good luck to those that swim in its clear, tranquil waters, Hrid Lake is a really special place with plenty of boulders and hidden nooks scattered around the shoreline, allowing hikers to spread out and feel like they have the entire place to themselves.

We spent over an hour here basking in the serenity, reflecting on what had been a fantastic few weeks of hiking and munching down the last of our snacks before continuing around the rocky shoreline towards Veliki Hrid.

The collection of boulders on the far side of the lake, mottled with pale green lichen, does require some rock hopping and scrambling, but it’s easy enough and there are trail markers to direct you to the trail on the other side and up the short hill to Veliki Hrid.

Marking the highest point of the stage, rejoin the gravel road here, turning right to begin the very long 14 km descent towards Plav.

Follow the road for 1.5 km before veering left onto a narrow well-signposted path opposite a wooden hut.

The small trail crosses a grassy hilltop that offers views towards hulking Mt. Visitor before veering right through a smattering of trees. Onwards, the path meanders across some lovely meadows speckled with tiny white flowers before descending steeply through the forest to meet the gravel road once again which will guide you the rest of the way to Plav.

Descend gradually through dry, open farmland via a series of tight switchbacks, pass through a couple of farm gates and don’t miss the spring on the way down if you need a refreshing refill.

Approaching the Treskavicka River, the trail flattens out, flanked by an increasingly lush patch of forest.

Don’t miss the path veering off to the left where a small wooden cabin and shaded meadow make a popular stop for lunch, otherwise a short way further along, you’ll reach the cool shade beside the river.

Rock hopping across the water, the road climbs gently before pitching back downhill and continues weaving between forests and farmlands offering up glimpses of the surrounding countryside speckled with mountain cabins.

As the last of the trees begin to fade out and the oppressive afternoon heat reaches its peak, the terracotta sprawl of Plav finally comes into view from a lookout point beside the road, some 3 hours after leaving the lake. The refreshing morning swim now feeling like a lifetime ago.

From here, another half hour downhill will bring you back to Plav’s main road and the final few steps of the Peaks of the Balkans trail.

After running around town completing a few errands before making our way to Grebaje Valley – restocking our snack supply was a top priority – we settled in at Cafe TIMM for an afternoon of decadent iced coffees topped with whipped cream and homemade lemonade.

We had certainly earned it!

If your hiking adventure ends here, either head straight to the bus station for the journey back to Podgorica or enjoy one final night in Plav knowing your legs will be getting a well-deserved rest tomorrow.

For those continuing onto Grebaje Valley which I’d highly recommend, skip to the next section.

TRAVEL   |

While most hikers opt to spend their final night in town, those with an early flight or onward travel plans may prefer to jump straight on the 4 p.m. or 5 p.m. bus bound for Podgorica.

There’s no actual ‘station’ in Plav, just a parking lot, but tickets can be purchased on board directly from the driver or attendant (€13, 4 hours). Some charge a €1 baggage fee to stow your luggage. Check the timetable here.

There also tends to be at least one taxi hovering around if you’d prefer a private transfer.

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STAY   |

Without the need to be near the trail for a quick morning getaway, I’d recommend staying at the opposite end of town near the lake where you can enjoy the spectacular views towards the mountains, while still being close to the centre and bus station.

Ema Apartments  |  With modern, beautifully appointed rooms set just back from the lake, this newly renovated guesthouse is the perfect place to enjoy your final night on the trail.

Both rooms are equipped with a kitchenette and ensuite and have access to the outdoor terrace with a backdrop of Prokletije’s spectacular peaks. Check rates and availability here.

TRAVEL  |

There is no public transport to Grebaje Valley, so you can either take a direct taxi from Plav (around €30) or a combination of bus and taxi via Gusinje.

We took the 5:30 p.m. bus from Plav to Gusinje (15 mins, €1.50 pp) and arranged a taxi from there to our guesthouse in Grebaje (15 mins, €15).

The tourist information office recommended a local driver Radončić Sajo (+382 69 334 748) who we contacted via WhatsApp and was able to pick us up right away. I’d suggest contacting him in advance to confirm his availability if you have an expected arrival time.

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FEES  |

You’ll need to pay the entrance fee once again for Prokletije National Park at the gate just before you reach Grebaje Dolina (€3 pp or €13.50 for the annual pass).

—

STAY |

Bungalows Prokletije Tuzovic   |   We stayed in one of these cute-as-a-button bungalows, set in a lovely garden between the mountains. The loft bed was incredibly comfortable and cosy and rooms are equipped with a fridge and kettle. Small but functional. Check rates and availability here.

—

EAT  |

There are only two restaurants in Grebaje Village – Pavićević and Katun Maja Karanfil – both of which receive mixed reviews online. We had drinks at both, but much preferred the menu and service at Pavićević who serve up decent portions of homely, traditional fare and where we ate both our dinners in the valley.

If you’re visiting on a weekend, keep in mind that both restaurants (and parking areas) can quickly fill up with local day trippers.

There are no shops in Grebaje so I’d recommend stocking up on supplies for breakfast and lunch at the supermarkets in Plav before heading into Prokletije.

Distance   |   10 km

Duration   |   5 hours

Highlights   |   Views of Karanfili massif and Grebaje Valley

Elevation   |   1,140 m to 2,057 m

—

With just one day in the Grebaje Valley, the only way to spend it is with the best hike in Prokletije National Park – the Three Peaks Trail.

After a much-needed sleep in and breakfast on the terrace, we set off down the valley to scale the final peaks of the trip – Volušnica, Talijanka and Popadija which comprise the three peaks.

From the valley floor, Volušnica is the only visible peak of the trio, its vertiginous face a formidable presence overhead. But thankfully, the trail is actually rather straightforward, accessing the summit via a gradual grassy slope that cascades down its northwest flank.

Beginning from just behind Katun Maja Karanfil, the path crosses a section of uneven rockfall before joining a dirt road, crossing over the dried Volusnica River and reaching a blocked gate directing you up a small path to the left.

Pitching steeply upwards, the well-trodden trail meanders through lush beech forest before emerging into a wide grassy bowl encircled by the three peaks that rise along the perimeter.

Arriving at an intersection besides a small steam, veer left to continue on to Volušnica. Forging through grassy meadows and beside some enormous white boulders, the trail climbs higher, navigating between stunted cliffs and leafy bushes, through a small patch of forest and up the final steep ascent to the summit.

The first of many spectacular vantage points that await along the trail, you’ll be rewarded with phenomenal views across the Grebaje Valley towards the magnificent Karanfili massif which dominates the opposite cliff face.

Having seen this impressive cliff line rising along the periphery for most of the Peaks of the Balkans trek, viewing it up close was something really special and the perfect way to close out an epic adventure.

Onwards, take the left trail through the trees, scuttling along the narrow ridgeline which occasionally comes very close to the edge, past another pair of exceptional viewpoints that jut out along the cliff face, and up the exceedingly steep climb that will bring you to Talijanka.

Marking the border with Albania, the views are fantastic, taking in the Albanian Alps and rugged landscapes of Prokletije National Park.

This is an excellent spot for lunch, although the summit can get rather crowded. Best is to continue a short way along the ridgeline to find a quiet spot to enjoy the views.

For Popadija, continue straight over the top of Talijanka and down the other side where the trail cuts along the spine that links the two peaks before climbing gently to the final summit of the day.

From here, the trail pitches sharply downhill along a very rocky and steep section of trail – hiking poles are a good idea. Make your way slowly down towards a saddle where the trail flattens out and continues its descent at a more gradual pace.

Onwards, meander through a small patch of forest which provides some much-needed shade, down the grassy slope and alongside a pretty stream to return to the intersection from earlier in the day.

Veer left and head back into the forest, following the same way you came for the rest of the way down to Grebaje Valley.

From mid-July through August, you’ll be greeted by thousands of blueberry bushes that are ripe for the taking along this trail. We happily munched our way through handful after handful for much of the hike.

Distance   |   3.5 km

Duration   |   1.5 hours

Highlights   |   Grebaja Valley, Kissing Cats rock formation

Elevation   |   1,139 m to 1,187 m

—

With more than 200 kilometres hiked through the spectacular Accursed Mountains over the last fortnight (214 to be exact), a lazy stroll through the beautiful Grebaje Valley is a wonderful way to spend the final morning of the trip, and give your legs a bloody well-earned rest.

Wander the length of the Grebaje Valley, taking the time to soak up the raw beauty of the majestic cliffs that tower above the open meadows and verdant beech forests that blanket the valley floor.

Stop at the information panels scattered along the way to learn about the history and geology of these landscapes and the glacier that once spilled across the mountains.

About half way along the flat dirt road, the remnants of the glacial lake is now a carpet of lush grass – a favourite spot for the livestock grazing in the valley.

Be sure to continue to the far end of the final meadow to see the curious formation of the ‘Kissing Cats’ high up in the cliff face on the left hand side of the valley. Best is to view them in the afternoon when the sun illuminates the left valley wall and there’s a well positioned bench which gives a perfect vantage point beside the road if you’re struggling to spot them.

After your gentle stroll, head back to Grebaje village for lunch, before beginning the journey back to Podgorica. Be sure to allow enough time to travel to Gusinje or Plav to make your connecting bus.

TRAVEL  |

For the return trip to Podgorica, either take a direct taxi or a combination of taxi and bus via Gusinje.

We arranged our transfer with the taxi driver the day before (Radončić Sajo, +382 69 334 748) to pick us up from Grebaje and drop us in Gusinje in time for the afternoon bus departing for Podgorica (€13, 4 hours). Purchase your ticket on board.

It’s worth mentioning that we were told by the tourist information office that occasionally the bus may leave off the Plav to Gusinje leg if no passengers from Podgorica are travelling this far. We had no issues with the bus (aside from the pervasive cigarette smoke) and it always showed up, but this might be more prevalent out of season when there are fewer tourists about.

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STAY  |

Hotel Terminus   |   A convenient option in Podgorica located right next to the bus station. The rooms are comfortable with a decent buffet breakfast and the helpful staff are able to arrange airport transfers for guests. Check rates and availability here.

Well, that turned into an absolute monster of a post. If you’ve made it this far – well done!

In a region changing so quickly, and with so much information we found online about the Peaks of the Balkans now seeming to be out-of-date, if you’ve recently hiked the trail and notice any things that have changed, feel free to drop a comment below to help keep this information updated and relevant for future hikers.

* This post includes affiliate links and any purchases made through these links will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. *