Hiking the Spectacular Pic du Midi d’Ossau in the French Pyrenees

7 November 2024.

The iconic spire of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau makes it one of the most famous and distinctive peaks in the French Pyrenees. Discover the best ways to experience the area on foot. 

In a region of astounding natural beauty, the Pic du Midi d’Ossau is easily a highlight of the French Pyrenees.

Towering above the magnificent Ossau Valley, the gnarled, multi-pronged peak punctures the cerulean sky and casts a distinct silhouette that is recognisable from across the region.

From its rocky spire, the peak plunges into verdant meadows carves by summer streams and lush plateaus freckled with turquoise alpine lakes. A veritable playground for mountain lovers.

Located in the Pyrenees National Park in southwest France, within a stone’s throw of the Spanish border, the impressive Pic du Midi d’Ossau is a magnet for rock climbers and mountaineers eager to reach the craggy summit.

But it is in the landscapes that surround the iconic massif where keen hikers will find one of the best trails in all of the Pyrenees – the Grand Tour de Pic du Midi d’Ossau.

The challenging 25 km trail can be completed as one long day hike, but the more popular option is to split the route into either an overnight hike or two separate day hikes – the Tour des Lacs d’Ayous and the Tour de l’Ossau.

Whichever option you choose, you’ll be rewarded with exceptional views of the peak, the Bious Valley and the many lakes that lie strewn across the surrounding landscapes.

This comprehensive hiking guide covers everything you need to know to visit the Pic du Midi d’Ossau and explore the region on foot.

The main hiking trails for exploring the Pic du Midi d’Ossau area originate from Bious-Artigues.

Along with shorter hikes, such as the Lac de Bious-Artigues, Col d’Aas de Bielle and Lac d’Aule, you’ll find the two most spectacular trails, the Tour des Lacs d’Ayous and Tour de l’Ossau.

I combined the two and completed the full grand tour circuit in one incredible day, but to really do the area justice and take your time, I would recommend splitting it across two or three days, either overnighting on the mountain or completing each circuit as an individual day hike. 

This will afford additional time to enjoy the many gorgeous lakes, take in the views in the golden afternoon light, and add in a number of possible side trips located along the main circuit.

1   |  Tour des Lacs d’Ayous

The shorter and easier of the two circuits, the Tour des Lacs d’Ayous guides you past six beautiful alpine lakes (collectively referred to as the Lacs d’Ayous) which lie cradled beneath the Pic d’Ayous on the plateau opposite the Pic du Midi d’Ossau.

Distance   |   14 km

Duration   |   5 hours

Elevation   |   1,415 m to 2,096 m (772 m gain)

Difficulty   |   Moderate

Trailhead   |   Bious Artigues

2   |   Tour de l’Ossau

The Tour de l’Ossau is the more challenging option and takes you on a circular route around the base of the Pic du Midi massif, involving a steep rocky ascent, some technical sections of trail and a long meandering descent back into the valley.

Distance   |   15 km

Duration   |   7 hours

Elevation   |   1,415 m to 2,320 m (1,059 m gain)

Difficulty   |   Difficult

Trailhead   |   Bious Artigues

3   |   Grand Tour de Pic du Midi d’Ossau

The spectacular grand tour is a long and challenging trail that combines the two circuits above and involves two significant ascents and descents as well as sections of technical terrain. Best completed over two days, though possible in one for fit and experienced hikers.

Distance   |   25 km

Duration   |   10 hours

Elevation   |   1,415 m to 2,320 m (1,660 m gain)

Difficulty   |   Difficult

Trailhead   |   Bious Artigues

Bious Artigues and the Pic du Midi d’Ossau are located in the far reaches of the Ossau Valley in the west of France’s Parc national des Pyrénées.

The closest village is Laruns, situated 40 minutes to the north via a narrow and winding mountain road.

Pau, the nearest town, is located around 90 minutes away, while Toulouse is the closest major city and can be reached in around 3 hours.

For those arriving from Spain, the nearest crossing is at Col du Pourtalet which is just half an hour away.

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TOP TIP   |   Just to make things a little confusing, it’s worth noting that d’Ossau isn’t the only Pic du Midi in the region. In fact, it’s not even the most famous.

Pic du Midi de Bigorre is located about 2.5 hours further east above the popular Col de Tourmalet with a cable car that shuttles visitors to the observatory and sky deck complex atop the mountain. The peak at Bigorre is often abbreviated to simply ‘Pic du Midi’ so be sure to check your gps is directing you to the correct one.

By car, navigate towards Laruns, either via the D934 from Pau or the D918 from Argelès-Gazost which brings you via the spectacular Col d’Aubisque. Continue to Gabas and turn onto the meandering D231 which hugs the Gave de Bious until you arrive at Bious Artigues.

There are two parking areas here which are both paid with controlled boom gate entry and are only open between 7 a.m. and 7 p.m.

The upper parking area is situated directly at the trailhead beside the Lac de Bious Artigues and costs €7. No vehicles are able to be left here after 7 p.m.

The lower parking area (also called Bious-Oumette) is much larger and costs €4. This will add an additional 1 km uphill walk to reach the actual trailhead. In wet weather, it can also become particularly muddy so take care in small cars. Sleeping overnight in your vehicle here is strictly forbidden and heavy fines do apply so be sure not to arrive back late to your car.

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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR   //   Both Pau and Toulouse have several options for car rental from either the train station or airport. Public transport is extremely limited in the region so visiting with your own car is the best way to explore.

For this trip I used and would recommend Discover Cars who offered by far the most competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.

Public transport to Bious Artigues is only available in the peak summer season during July and August.

From Pau, take bus 524 to Laruns. Transfer to bus 525 which travels twice daily from Laruns to Col de Pourtalet via Bious Oumettes (the road at Bious Artigues). Check the timetables here.

Pau has a small regional airport with limited flights from Paris and Lyon, but the town is reasonably well connected to destinations further afield by regional trains and buses. Lourdes, Toulouse, Biarritz and Bordeaux offer far better flight connections. Compare transport options here.

This region of the Pyrenees is peppered with lovely mountain villages, many of which offer accommodation, whether that’s a homely gîte, boutique hotel, ski resort or, most common, a seasonal private apartment.

Laruns and the surrounding villages make an ideal base, though options here are somewhat limited. For those planning to spread their hike over several days, there are also two beautifully situated mountain refuges located along the route.

During peak season, places do fill up quickly so be sure to make a reservation well in advance.

Mountain Refuges

Refuge d’Ayous   |   Perched on the hill above Lac Gentau at 1,980 m, Refuge d’Ayous is where you’ll find one of the best views of the Pic du Midi reflected in the still, midnight blue pool below. Operating from May to mid-October, the refuge provides access to 47 beds in dormitory style accommodation with half and full-board options. Drinking water and electricity available. No showers onsite. Check rates and availability here.

Refuge de Pombie   |   Located on the opposite side of the Pic du Midi massif beside Lac de Pombie, this refuge has a similarly spectacular location overlooking the vast Vallée du Brousset towards the magnificent peaks that form the natural border with Spain. Equipped with 45 dorm beds with half and full-board available. Check rates and availability here.

Pyrenees Accommodation

Gîte d’étape Le Couvent d’Ossau   |  Run by a lovely French couple who are a wealth of information on the region, this cosy and characterful gîte is a wonderful budget choice. Located in the village of Louvie-Juzon, 45 minutes from the trailhead, this friendly guesthouse offers both shared and private accommodation in a historic convent house wrapped in a leafy garden. Dinners are a convivial affair, served family style, with the goal of bringing mountain-lovers together over wholesome and delicious traditional fare. Check rates and availability here.

Auberge La Caverne   |   Another decent budget choice located just 20 minutes from the trailhead, this family-run guesthouse alongside the main road offers dormitory and private rooms. The onsite restaurant highlights regional produce from the Ossau Valley. Check rates and availability here.

Iskö Chalets-Hötel   |   Nestled beneath the beautiful Col d’Aubisque on the outskirts of Gourette with magnificent views towards Pic de Ger, Iskö is a more upmarket option that offers newly renovated and beautifully appointed chalets equipped with a kitchenette and fireplace. Within the chalet village, you’ll also find a restaurant, bar and swimming pool. Check rates and availability here.

Setting off from Bious-Artigues, the trail begins along a flat paved road – the Piste Pastoral de Bious – that skirts around the lake before being engulfed in forest alongside Le Gave de Bious.

For those hiking just the Tour des Lacs d’Ayous rather than the grand tour, consider following the short and easy detour around the artificial Lac de Bious-Artigues which will add just 1 km to your hike.

Crossing over the bridge after 1.6 km, the path begins to climb more steeply beside the river before passing through a farm gate and emerging from the trees at the Pont de Bious.

For here, you’ll catch your first glimpse of the beautiful valley ahead.

Dewy meadows peppered with horses sprawl beneath the knobbly peaks of Castérau and Paradis awash with morning light, while the river forges its meandering path towards the lake.

Enticing as the valley may be, turn left at the signposted Pont de Bious intersection along the wide forest trail.

The path climbs gradually for the next 1.5 km, crossing over a large clearing that offers up wonderful views, before emerging onto a grassy slope above the tree line.

As you make your way higher, don’t forget to look back towards the magnificent wall of spiky Pyrenean peaks that dominate the horizon.

Continuing over the crest, you’ll arrive at the mirror-like pool of Lac Roumassot – the first of the six Lakes of Ayous – which perfectly reflects the contorted form of Pic Castérau.

Skirting around the right bank, the trail pitches steeply upwards alongside a roaring cascade to bring you over the next rise.

As you move across the mountain plateau, you’ll also notice the landscapes begin to change with red sandstone streaking the surrounding cliffs in deep magenta.

Here, the path begins to flatten out, passing by the tiny Lac du Miey before reaching the shimmering expanse of Lac Gentau.

The most famous and picturesque of the area’s lakes, this is where you’ll find the iconic view of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau rising above a calm natural pool and burning vermillion in the fading evening light.

Perched on the small hill overlooking the lake, Refuge d’Ayous stands proudly and can be reached either along the flat, grassy bank which can become marshy in the wet, or over the dry, rocky hillside. Pick your route carefully depending on the conditions.

To view the peak in the best light, it’s well worth staying overnight in this spectacular spot (more on this below).

For those only hiking the Tour des Lacs or overnighting in the refuge and keen to get even more steps in, there’s also a popular side trip to the summit of Pic d’Ayous, a 1.6 km ascent via Col d’Ayous.

Onwards from the refuge, the trail climbs gently up a series of switchbacks alongside a narrow stream and some smaller pools towards Lac Bersau.

Situated at 2,083 m and fringed in a patchwork of grass slopes and rocky cliffs, the trail around Lac Bersau marks the highest point of the Tour des Lacs d’Ayous circuit and as you approach the escarpment on the far side of the lake, you’ll begin the descent back towards the valley.

Several paths converge here, arriving from the nearby Spanish border, and it’s not immediately obvious which is the correct trail to follow.

Pass through the rocky passage at the edge of the plateau, veer left across the hillside and continue sharply down into the grassy basin below.

Pushing on around Lac Castérau, you’ll arrive at the verge overlooking the beautiful upper reaches of the Bious Valley.

The imposing spire of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau dominates the scene, plunging into a vast tract of vivid green pastures carved by the delicate serpentine thread of the Bious River.

In the distance, a formidable cluster of austere peaks pierce the horizon.

For those attempting the grand tour in one day, this marks just over a third of the route (about 3 hours of hiking) and makes an excellent stop for morning tea or an early lunch accompanied by the magnificent views.

From here, a steep and rocky 1 km descent via a series of switchbacks brings you back to the road that leads through the valley at the Cabane de la Hosse intersection.

This is one of the sharpest slopes of the entire hike and hiking poles are a good idea if you’ve got them.

Back on the valley floor, there are two options – either veer immediately left and stick to the gravel road until you reach the Pied des Arazures intersection, or cross the road and follow the small trail that leads towards the river, cross the bridge and continue along the narrow path on the opposite bank. Both routes converge in about 1.5 km.

I followed the small trail along the right bank of the river, however, as there had been an enormous amount of rainfall in the days prior, this section was incredibly muddy so I’d recommend the road if conditions are similar during your visit.

If you’re completing the Tour des Lacs d’Ayous, stick on the road which leads directly through the valley pastures and brings you back to Pont de Bious for the return to Bious-Artigues.

For those continuing along the grand tour, keep an eye out for the ground level sign 300 m after the road and narrow trail intersect at the river.

Here, you’ll pass the sign for ‘Refuge de Pombie par Peyreget’ and reach the Pied des Arazures marker which indicates a small, easy-to-miss trail entering the forest on your right.

If you’re beginning your hike with the Tour de l’Ossau, follow the same trail outlined above from Bious-Artigues to Pont de Bious and then continue up the gravel road through the valley to the Pied des Arazures intersection.

From here, veer right into the forest and prepare for the next long ascent of the hike.

Climbing from the valley floor, the trail zigzags steeply uphill for the next 2 km.

Pass through the Bois des Arazures and emerge onto a grassy slope that gazes onto the spectacular mountains which encircle the Lacs d’Ayous and occupied most of your morning.

Now, about two thirds of the way up, I accidentally went straight onto an obvious side path rather than turning left to continue along the switchback.

The path was clear and marked on my map so I stuck with it, however it quickly deteriorated into a rocky ravine that involved scrambling up an incredibly steep scree slope and grassy hillside with hands and feet.

Anyone familiar with the deceptively spiky clumps of grass that are all too common in the Pyrenees will know they can fill your hands with tiny thorns at the slightest touch.

In short, don’t try to take any short cuts, stick to the main trail.

Up top, the trail passes the Cabane de Peyreget nestled in a nearby depression and swings away from the valley, beginning the wide arc around the massif.

Finally the path begins to flatten out and enters a rocky channel before arriving at the shallow basin of Lac de Peyreget, cradled beneath the rugged southwest face of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau.

This area plays host to many marmots so be sure to keep an eye out for these curious creatures foraging amongst the rocks and darting between their burrows.

Beside the lake, you’ll reach the intersection for Col de l’Iou leading to the right which continues on to Pic Peyreget.

Though I didn’t hike this way myself, for those on a shorter tour or overnighting at Refuge de Pombie, the 1.4 km detour to the summit is a popular addition along this trail.

This route also provides access to Parking d’Anéou near Col du Pourtalet, an alternate access point for the Pic du Midi massif.

Instead, follow the signs to the left for Col de Peyreget.

Cross over a small stream and cut across the grassy slopes that border the eastern shores of the lake, past two smaller pools, to the base of the boulder field.

In terms of terrain, this is the most challenging section of the hike, involving a 550m rock hop and scramble to reach the pass of Col de Peyreget above.

Though there is no obvious trail through this stage, the way is very well marked with frequent cairns and arrow placards.

Closing in on 6 hours on trail, arriving to this steep embankment of rock was initially quite daunting, but thankfully the boulders are mostly stable and navigating the route was far more straightforward and, dare I say, enjoyable than I had anticipated.

Take your time, stick closely to the markers and you should be fine.

Emerging at Col de Peyreget, you’ll be rewarded with exceptional views across the Brousset Valley with the speck of Refuge de Pombie visible below against a backdrop of impressive peaks.

At 2,320 m, this marks the highest point of the Tour de l’Ossau and the entire Grand Tour de Pic du Midi d’Ossau.

Though there is one small ascent still to go, the way is mostly downhill from here.

With such an ideal vantage point, this makes another excellent spot for a break and you’ll find plenty of large flat rocks on which to relax before continuing on.

From the pass, it’s a sharp and rocky 1 km descent, passing beside the beautiful twin pools of the Lacs du Col de Peyreget and through a short section of rockfall where the trail begins to flatten out.

Tracing the edge of the turquoise Lac de Pombie, you’ll finally arrive at the lush meadows that surround Refuge de Pombie, sheltered below the craggy walls of the Pic du Midi.

Many trails converge here, arriving from Anéou, Calillou de Soques and Bious Artigues, and the views from the escarpment are fantastic with the conical Pic Palas standing proudly amidst an impressive line up.

Diehard adventurers aiming to conquer the Pic du Midi d’Ossau summit also set out from here and it’s not uncommon to see (and hear) climbers making their way up the vertiginous cliffs.

Nestled beside the sparkling expanse of the lake or overlooking the sweeping valley, this makes another decent spot for a well-deserved break before tackling the final 7 km of the hike.

Departing Refuge de Pombie, the trail crosses the final 1 km section of uneven rockfall that has accumulated around the base of the peak.

Initially the boulders are quite large and require some scrambling, but further along things even out and there’s an obvious path forward.

With the last of the rockfall behind you, push on up the grassy slope to Col de Suzon which marks the final uphill stretch of the hike.

From here, it’s possible to take a short 500 metre detour along the ridge line to Pic Saoubiste, otherwise, head straight over the saddle to enter the Magnabaigt Valley and begin the long 5 km descent back to Bious-Artigues.

Circling the vibrant green basin that lies cradled between the Cirque de Moundelhs – the rocky shelf which forms the northern wall of the Pic du Midi –  and the ridge that links Pics Saoubiste and Chérue, that trail descends in a wide arc and steep switchbacks towards the Rouisseau de Magnabaigt – a tributary of the mighty Ossau River.

Taking care over the rocks across the river, the trail continues through a picturesque part of the valley where horses graze amongst lush meadows, a gentle cascade courses over the rocks and the intimidating facade of Pic d’Aulère looms ahead.

Down below you’ll catch a glimpse of the Cabane de Magnabaigt where you can purchase locally produced cheese during the summer.

Passing through a small grove and sun-drenched clearing, the trail is once again engulfed in forest that will carry you the final 1.6 km back to Bious Artigues.

Flanked by lush beech trees and rocks encrusted by vivid green moss, it’s a magical way to end the hike, though the path is both very steep and muddy in parts until things flatten out on the approach to the parking area.

If you’re planning to hike the full grand tour in one day, your time on trail will very much be limited by the operating hours of the carpark and the hours of daylight during your visit.

Be sure to make an early start and keep an eye on how you’re tracking, particularly if you’re parked at the upper car park.

For those completing either circuit as an individual day hike, setting off early will allow you to reach the high alpine area before the bulk of the day visitors arrive.

The Ossau Valley and the Pic du Midi d’Ossau are among the most popular hiking destinations in the Pyrenees National Park, alongside Cirque du Gavarnie and Pont d’Espagne.  

During the peak summer season (July and August), you can expect this area to become incredibly busy with day hikers.

I’d recommend visiting during June or September instead when the trails are much quieter and temperatures more pleasant, not to mention you’ll benefit from cheaper accommodation and car rental prices.

Opting to stay overnight in the mountains and extending your hike into a multi-day adventure will also allow you to escape further into the high alpine plateau away from any crowds.  

It was an image of the otherworldly pyramid of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, illuminated in deep orange hues and reflected in a still pool fringed with mountains that first put this hike on my radar, but seeing the peak under such conditions means arriving in the late afternoon.

From Refuge d’Ayous, the sun rises almost directly behind Pic du Midi d’Ossau, obscuring the iconic western face in shadow for much of the day.

While hiking directly here in the morning or early afternoon does make the most sense in terms of the trail’s elevation profile and terrain, it’s not ideal to view the peak in the best light.

If you’re keen to factor this into your hike, I’d suggest instead arriving in the hours before sunset – either beginning the Tour des Lacs d’Ayous late in the day or hiking the grand tour in an anti-clockwise direction – and staying overnight at the refuge to experience the rugged facade ablaze with golden light.

As always, the weather can be highly changeable in the mountains and it’s important to keep an eye on the forecast.

Though summer is generally the driest time of the year in the French Pyrenees, you can expect sporadic rainfall which increases dramatically moving into autumn.

With plenty of rocky terrain along the route that could become slippery in the wet, being properly equipped for the weather and terrain is essential. Thick cloud across the peaks will also heavily reduce visibility.

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TOP TIP   |   In case of emergencies and to keep updated on changing conditions, stay connected in the mountains with an e-sim. I’ve personally used Airalo on several multi-day hiking trips in Europe and would recommend them. Check plans and coverage here.

It’s a long hike so be sure to bring plenty of food and snacks for your trip. The closest supermarket is the Intermarché located in Laruns or Louvie-Juzon. You’ll also find a handful of bakeries in Laruns which generally open early.

There are several springs, rivers and lakes located along this trail, however horses and other livestock do graze along the upper pastures so I wouldn’t recommend relying on these water sources unless you plan to filter or purify the water. Instead, bring enough to drink for the entire hike.

In peak season, you can purchase food and drinks from the refuges, however for those on the grand tour, their location means you’ll generally arrive either a little early or late for a reasonable lunch.

Hiking Boots   |   Solid footwear with good grip is essential. Something with decent ankle support is also a good idea. I use and love my Scarpa Hiking Boots and LOWA Hiking Boots.

Hiking Poles   |   Given the long, steep and rocky descents, carrying hiking poles is a godsend for this trail. I use the Mountain Designs Trekking Poles (for Aussies) or Black Diamond Trekking Poles.

Power Bank   |   With such a long day on trail, and so many photo-worthy views along the way, you’ll need to ensure your smartphone stays charged. I use the Anker Portable Charger.

First Aid Kit   |   An essential in every hiker’s pack – don’t forget to bring a fully stocked kit with a minimum of bandages, pain killers, plenty of plasters, blister patches, antiseptic cream, tweezers and oral rehydration salts.

Sunscreen   |   With at least 10 hours of hiking, much of that above the tree line, using adequate sun protection is important. Broad spectrum, SPF 50+, with a long resistance period (ideally 4 hours) is best. I use Neutrogena Beach Defence (SPF 50 / 4 hours for body) and Neutrogena Ultra Sheer (SPF 50 / 4 hours for face). Australia has very strict sunscreen regulations so the same formulas aren’t available internationally, but the products linked are similar.

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