20 January 2025.
Planinica is one of the best hiking trails in Durmitor National Park. Discover everything you need to know for the hike in this guide.
Durmitor National Park is defined by the immense karst landscapes that sprawl across its alpine plateau. Stark limestone peaks, chiselled and contorted, which soar above an ocean of forested foothills and rolling meadows.
At 2,330 m, the rounded green summit of Planinica is dwarfed by its neighbours, but holds a spectacular position amongst the formidable giants that surround it, standing proudly beneath the razor sharp north face of Bezimeni vrh, the nameless peak.
The hike to Planinica is a straightforward out and back trail beginning from the Black Lake.
Guiding you through vast pine forests and lush meadows, past a glacial lake and rugged cave, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of Sušica Canyon, the enchanting Škrčko Lakes Valley, and the impressive ridge line that climbs into Bezimeni vrh and Bobotov Kuk, the two highest peaks in Durmitor National Park.
While it involves a long 4 hour grind to reach the summit, there are no specifically challenging or technical sections along the way.
Planinica also connects with several other trails that traverse the most spectacular corners of Durmitor National Park, providing plenty of opportunities to extend your hike.
This guide covers everything you need to know for hiking Planinica.
Distance | 18.5 km
Duration | 8 hours
Elevation Gain | 954 m
Difficulty | Moderate
Trailhead | Black Lake
The Planinica trail begins from the Black Lake, located 3 km from Žabljak which acts as the gateway to Durmitor National Park.
From Podgorica, it’s a 2.5 hour drive to Žabljak along mostly new and often winding mountain roads.
From Žabljak, continue west through town to one of the two main parking areas for the Black Lake or Crno Jezero – located here and here. Both parking zones attract at €2 fee in addition to the Durmitor National Park entry fee.
In summer, these can get extremely busy and people will park haphazardly along the roadside extending all the way back into town so I’d recommend arriving early in the day to snag a spot.
From the parking areas, continue along the paved walkway which will bring you to the Black Lake where you’ll find a large information board highlighting the various hiking trails in the area.
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There is no public transport within Žabljak or Durmitor National Park but you’ll find a number of taxis in town, often located around the bus station, which can transport you short distances within the local region, including to the Black Lake.
To reach the area, there are several buses a day from Podgorica to Žabljak. The trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs €10 to €12. See timetables here.
Access to Durmitor National Park attracts a €5 entry fee per person per day, or you can purchase an annual pass for €13.50 which covers all national parks in Montenegro for a calendar year.
If you plan to spend more than two days in Durmitor, it’s well worth getting the annual pass which can be purchased on arrival, or online in advance here.
There is a national park check point at the entrance to the Black Lake, however when visiting outside of the peak summer season, I often found the entry points to be unmanned, particularly when starting your hike in the early morning.
Žabljak and the gorgeous surrounding countryside makes an ideal base for exploring the various sections of Durmitor National Park. You’ll find a variety of accommodation available to suit any budget, from cosy guesthouses to remote mountain cabins.
Hostel Hikers Den | For budget travellers, look no further than this homely hostel located right in the heart of town which offers both dormitory and private rooms, a communal kitchen and knowledgeable owners. It also consistently takes home the prize for best hostel in Montenegro. Check rates and availability here.
Srna Chalet | A lovely, wallet-friendly guesthouse located a short walk from Žabljak’s main square, Srna Chalet offers a range of private rooms with a shared bathroom in a large wooden house. The host is super helpful and knowledgeable on the region, and there’s also a guest kitchen onsite. Check rates and availability here.
Spruce Hill Village | With a stunning mountain setting just 10 minutes from Zabljak, Spruce Hill Village boasts a collection of charming self-contained chalets that are perfect for those eager to escape to the countryside. Guests love the warm hospitality and traditional breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Casa di Pino Eco Lodge | For a touch of luxury, Casa di Pino is an excellent option boasting modern, comfortable rooms, friendly staff, a great breakfast and sauna to melt away those tired muscles. Located within walking distance from town. Check rates and availability here.
Nestled beneath the formidable dome of Medjed, with golden rays glittering across its calm turquoise surface, the Black Lake is a magnificent place to begin your Planinica hike.
As is the case with almost every trail that originates here, you’ll spend the first hour or so weaving through the forest before emerging onto the verdant pastures that await above the tree line.
From the hiking information board, head to the right along the wide path that skirts around the lake, entering the forest and following the flat trail for around 3.5 km towards Zminje Jezero tucked away amidst a ring of pine trees.
Translating to Snake Lake, this is one of the smaller examples of Durmitor’s eighteen glacial lakes that lie scattered across the national park and surrounding countryside.
Pushing on, the trail begins climbing steadily and after just half an hour you’ll arrive through the trees into the clearing of Crepulj Poljana.
A carpet of lush spring growth speckled with colourful wildflowers and a pair of old wooden shepherd huts tucked beneath a gleaming spire of rock.
Veering off to the right, a barely visible trail feeds between the trees and ascends a steep rocky slope to reach the cave of Jelovačka Pećina, a gaping mouth in the sheer cliffs.
The cool air in the chamber is a refreshing change to the outside heat and the short 500 m detour is a worthwhile addition the the hike.
Returning to the meadow, the trail pitches up more steeply, meandering through the final patch of forest and onto a grassy slope where you’ll be rewarded with sweeping vistas across the treetops towards Žabljak.
Continuing along a string of wide switchbacks which bring you to the top of the rise, the vertiginous cliffs of Žuta Greda and Crvena Greda loom large at either end, guarding the entrance of the upper valley.
On the final switchback, a section of the rock face has collapsed, sending a spray of ochre rubble across the path which feels somewhat unstable. Ignore the trail markers here and navigate around the right side of the rockfall and back onto the proper trail.
Just below the crest, you’ll also pass the intersection for the Crvena Greda trail which stays mostly level as it skirts around the valley before a steep and challenging climb to the summit in just 1.7 km.
Though pairing the two peaks is possible starting and ending from the Black Lake, it does make for an exceptionally long and arduous day hike.
Pushing on over the rise, you’ll enter one of the most beautiful sections of the hike – the verdant upper valley and the glorious meadows of Ališnica.
Here the trail flattens out, snaking through the wide green basin peppered with white boulders, brightly coloured flowers and wild horses.
After a brief reprieve, the trail begins to climb again as you move from Donja Ališnica to Gornja Ališnica, the upper and lower meadows, towards the steep cirque that borders the head of the valley.
Crossing the plateau of Gornje Lokve, the trail pitches up sharply, bringing you onto the saddle that tumbles into the impressive Sušica Canyon on the other side.
Up top, veer left to continue the climb along the ridge, pushing through a tight cluster of stunted dwarf mountain pines.
These trees are often thick, spiky and overgrown and can be tough to navigate.
There are also several trails that have been created and are marked to help hikers bash their way through, though some are certainly better than others and you may need to backtrack slightly to find the best route.
Finally, you’ll emerge on the vast grassy summit of Planinica and be rewarded with its phenomenal views.
Ahead, the colossal blade-like pinnacle of Bezimeni vrh punctures the sky, with the craggy dome of Bobotov Kuk, often sprinkled with a group of triumphant hikers, peaking from behind.
Squinting over the precipice, steep scree fields plunge towards Škrčko Lake with the streaked, crumpled facade of Prutaš Peak as a formidable backdrop on the opposite flank.
Surrounded by such beauty, it’s easy to lose an hour incessantly zigzagging back and forth across the summit to take it all in, before hunkering down to escape the wind and enjoy a well deserved lunch break.
When you’re ready, head back to the Black Lake via the same route which is thankfully almost entirely downhill.
Perched along the impressive walls that cascade towards Škrčko Jezero, it hardly seems possible that there is a feasible way down from Planinica.
And yet, there are actually several trails that fan out from the ridge or intersect with the main trail which can be used to create a longer day hike or extend your trip into a multi-day adventure for those adequately equipped with camping gear.
Planinica falls along the Via Dinarica, the long-distance hiking trail that traverses the entire Balkan Peninsular, and crosses Durmitor National Park from the Black Lake, to Planinica and Škrčko Lake before feeding through Sušica Canyon to Sušičko Jezero.
Other trails deviate along the top of Sušica Canyon to the village of Ograde Kolibe, or you can backtrack along the Planinica hike for the detour to Crvena Greda.
Clambering down to Škrčko Lake also provides access to several other peaks, including Prutaš and Bobotov Kuk, with the option to camp overnight in the valley.
With such steep terrain involved, needless to say these are all challenging routes and recommended for fit and experienced hikers.
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