Senda de los Cazadores: An Incredible Hike in the Ordesa Valley

20 December 2024.

The Ordesa Valley is the crown jewel of the spectacular Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park and the best way to experience it is via the Senda de los Cazadores. 

The magnificent Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido is defined by four distinct valleys, though none are as affecting as the Ordesa Valley.

Located in the heart of Spain’s Pyrenees Mountains, the Ordesa Valley casts a striking impression carved by thousands of years of glacial activity.

A sweeping valley floor bound by sharp craggy cliffs that culminate in a dramatic amphitheatre which frames the head of the valley and climbs into the formidable peak of Monte Perdido, the lost mountain.

Several small tributaries trickle down its mighty flank to form the enduring ribbon of Rio Arazas which surges through the valley, creating a string of cascades and turquoise pools.

Whether scuttling along its cliffs or dwarfed beneath its giant walls, to be amongst the Ordesa Valley is truly humbling.

There are many ways to experience the Ordesa Valley, but for avid hikers the Senda de los Cazadores, which translates to the ‘trail of the hunters’, is an epic choice.

Climbing steeply through lush forests to the rocky escarpment that encircles the valley, the trail skirts along the ledge of Faja de Pelay beneath soaring cliffs before descending to the gleaming veil of Cascada Cola de Caballo.

From here, it’s possible to continue into the upper mountain plateau towards Refugio de Góriz which sits nestled beneath Monte Perdido, or return along the Cola de Caballo Route that guides you past the many cascades which mark the valley floor.

Though the area does get exceptionally busy in summer, the Senda de los Cazadores was my favourite hike in the Spanish Pyrenees and should not be missed.

The hiking guide below outlines the trail of Senda de los Cazadores which leads to Cola de Caballo Waterfall via Faja de Pelay with an extension to Refugio de Góriz.

Those after an easier hike can opt to walk only as far at the waterfall or stick to the Cola de Caballo Route which guides you along the valley floor and is less demanding. All three versions of the hike start at the Pradera de Ordesa and return via the Cola de Caballo Route.

Cola de Caballo Route – Pradera de Ordesa to Cascade Cola de Caballo

Distance   |   17.5 km

Duration   |   6 hours

Elevation Gain   |   610 m

Difficulty   |   Easy to Moderate

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Senda de los Cazadores – Faja de Pelay to Cascada Cola de Caballo

Distance   |   19 km

Duration   |   8 hours

Elevation Gain   |   1,166 m

Difficulty   |   Moderate

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Senda de los Cazadores to Refugio de Góriz

Distance   |   25.5 km

Duration   |   10 hours

Elevation Gain   |   1,596 m

Difficulty   |   Moderate

The pocket-sized mountain village of Torla-Ordesa is the gateway to the Ordesa Valley. As accommodation here is limited, many visitors choose to base themselves further afield and travel in.

The area is speckled with charming villages, though the nearest major town is Huesca located 1.5 hours away. The closest airport is in Zaragoza, just 2 hours away, followed by Lourdes in France or Barcelona which can be reached in 3 to 4 hours.

Torla-Ordesa is reached via the serpentine N260a road which spans between the villages of Biescas and Fiscal. On the hairpin bend just outside of Broto, turn onto the narrow access road for the final 1.5 km to reach the large parking area on the edge of the old town.

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Reaching Torla is possible by public transport, though it’s not exactly straightforward and will require several transfers depending on where you’re coming from.

Avanza operates a number of bus routes to Torla from surrounding towns including Ainsa, Barbastro and Sabiñánigo. Check the timetables here.

Annoyingly, the Avanza website is notoriously glitchy for foreigners. If you’re having trouble loading the page, try using a VPN localised for Spain and stick to the Spanish version rather than translating it to English.

From Zaragoza or Huesca, travel to Sabiñánigo by train and then transfer to an Avanza bus to Torla. From Pamplona, take a bus to Jaca with La Burundesa, continue to Sabiñánigo via bus or train and then catch the final Avanza bus to Torla.

From Barcelona, either take a train to Zaragoza and transfer to Sabiñánigo as above, or take a direct bus to Barbastro from where you can catch the Avanza bus to Torla via Ainsa. Check transport options here.

The Ordesa Valley is not accessible by private vehicle during summer and peak periods, but rather by a well organised shuttle bus system which runs between the Visitor Centre and the Pradera de Ordesa where the hiking trails begin.

Once you’ve arrived in Torla, you’ll need to park in the large, free visitor parking area (located here) that extends from the visitor centre just outside the old town and purchase a bus ticket from the ticket booth.

Buses run on a fixed schedule between April and October, usually departing every 15 minutes between 6 a.m. and 10 p.m. As of 2024, tickets were €4 one way or €6 return. Find more details here.

Buses travel directly from the visitor centre to the Pradera, however on the way back, they will often make additional stops at the campground and near the police station (Guardia Civil) on request.

In summer, the Ordesa Valley receives thousands of visitors everyday.

During my visit in mid August, the parking lot was more than three quarters full by 6 a.m. and completely overflowing by 10 a.m. with all street parking along the access road also overwhelmed.

I’d highly recommend arriving in time for the very first bus departure of the day to avoid getting caught in the chaos, or worse, stuck without a place to park. Even at 6 a.m. queues for the bus can build up, but multiple buses are often arranged simultaneously to manage the early morning demand.

There is a limit of 1,800 people in the valley at any one time and bus services will be paused once this is reached. During these times, you’ll see long queues forming through the parking lot until numbers fall below maximum capacity and more visitors are allowed to enter the valley.

This is very much a good thing to help alleviate overcrowding, but can mean a very long wait (in full sun) and missing out on valuable hiking time if you’ve arrived later in the day.

For the Ordesa Valley, Torla or a village nearby is the obvious place to stay, however if you intend to visit the wider Ordesa Monte Perdido National Park, you may prefer to base yourself in a more central location that provides equally easy access to the other spectacular valleys.

Torla and the Ordesa Valley sit on the western side of the national park, while the other three valleys – Añisclo, Escuain and Pineta – lie on the eastern side and will mean a 1.5 to 2-hour drive to reach them from Torla.

For this reason I chose to stay in Ainsa which is located 50 minutes from both Ordesa and Pineta, the two furthest valleys, and is much closer to the impressive canyons of Añisclo and Escuain.

The town itself sits at the confluence of Rio Cinca and Rio Ara and is well connected with a beautiful old town, ample parking and plenty of hotels and restaurants available.

Torla Accommodation   |

Monte Perdido Albergue   |   The best budget option in Torla, this hostel is located in the heart of the old town and offers both shared and private rooms. Onsite you’ll find a communal kitchen, dining area, laundry facilities and outdoor courtyard.

Hotel Abetos   |   A friendly, family-run hotel located just outside of Torla, here you’ll find cosy and peaceful private rooms with spectacular mountain views away from the bustle of town. Check rates and availability here.

Hotel Bujaruelo   |   Situated in the heart of Torla, this large hotel offers a variety of rooms suitable for any budget. The deluxe and Bujaruelo rooms are modern, well-appointed and a more luxurious option. Many rooms include mountain views and you’ll find a restaurant on site. Check rates and availability here.

Ainsa Accommodation   |

Dos Rios   |   I had a wonderful stay at this comfortable mid-range option in the heart of Ainsa which extends across three side-by-side buildings – Origin, Central and Apartahotel. Offering modern private rooms and spacious apartments, an excellent restaurant and bar, and fantastic breakfast buffet this is a great option for exploring the wider Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park. Check rates and availability here – Origin, Central and Apartahotel.

Los Arcos   |   Situated directly on Plaza Mayor in Ainsa’s old town, Los Arcos, which translates to ‘the arches’, is a lovely option with cosy rooms and beautiful stonework detailing. Keep in mind that you’ll need to park in the large municipal parking area outside the city walls. Check rates and availability here.

Apartamentos El Rincón   |   For something a bit special, this charming top-rated property is located a short drive from Ainsa and fully embraces the cottagecore aesthetic, offering beautifully designed apartments that make for a wonderfully homely stay in the Pyrenean countryside. Check rates and availability here.

Parking In Torla + Ainsa

As you might have guessed, parking in the Pyrenees during peak season is a hot commodity. I’d highly recommend choosing accommodation that has parking available or having a plan for where to park when you arrive.

If you’re staying in Torla, visitors do have access to the large parking area at the visitors centre, though this fills up very quickly.

If you swing around the old town and through the tunnel, you’ll find a section of street parking near the police station or a further 1.8 km down the road where there’s another large parking bay on the right hand side. Expect parking anywhere in town to be extremely busy during the peak summer period.

In Ainsa, many of the larger hotels do offer parking, though prices can be rather steep. As a backup, a better option is to park at one of the three large municipal parking areas scattered around the fringes of town – located here, here and here.

As of 2024, prices for cars were €1 per hour or €3 per 24 hours which can be left overnight. Campervans cost €8 per day but cannot be left overnight, except at the parking area behind the old town which has a dedicated space for campers and caravans. Be sure to bring coins for the ticket machines.

These parking areas can get very busy during peak periods, but I was still always able to find a spot without much trouble.

2.5 km   |   1 hour   |   614 m gain

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If you’ve taken the first bus of the day from Torla, you’ll most likely arrive to the Pradera de Ordesa, also known as ‘the meadow’, in the dark or when the first light of dawn is starting to break across the mountains.

Here you’ll find a restaurant, information office and two toilet blocks alongside a parking area which is only accessible outside of peak periods. At the far end, there’s also a large information board on hiking in the Ordesa Valley.

At the sign, most visitors head straight head along the valley trail, but for the Senda de los Cazadores you’ll need to turn right, following the paved walkway over the bridge across Rio Arazas and in 300m you’ll arrive at another intersection.

Leaving the paved path, take the right fork onto a forest trail, following the green signs for Senda de los Cazadores and Faja de Pelay.

From here, the trail pitches steeply upwards and switches back and forth beneath a lush canopy as you ascend the towering southern wall of the valley.

In the muted dawn light, the trail enshrouded in foliage remains surprisingly dark and a head torch is a good idea for this first section.

As you climb higher, gaps in the trees reveal glimpses of the enormous furrowed cliffs that mark the opposite wall.

After an hour of steady uphill, you’ll reach another signposted intersection. Turn left here and in 300m you’ll arrive at the magnificent Mirador de Calcilarruego.

Perched on the edge of the escarpment, the entire valley unfolds beneath you with the dramatic two-toned pyramid of Pico Otal standing guard at its mouth. Below, dewy meadows are flanked by steep forested walls that climb into vertiginous ochre cliffs.

Directly across lies Circo de Cotatuero where a thin cascade is visible, coursing over a sheer precipice and disappearing amongst the trees.

Beyond, the mountains climb into the border ridge that leads into the impressive amphitheatre of the Cirque du Gavarnie on the opposite side, one of the most famous natural phenomena in the French Pyrenees.

In a day filled with views that truly boggle the mind, this is certainly one of the best.

If you’ve arrived in the valley around sunrise, you should reach the mirador just in time to see the sun emerge over the surrounding peaks and spill veils of golden light across the mountains and the rippled cliffs that encircle the valley.

A perfectly timed crescendo that elevates these landscapes from the shadows to pure majesty.

It’ll be another few hours before this warm morning light meets the valley floor, trickling imperceptibly down the cliffs as you make your way along Faja de Pelay.

7.6 km   |   2.5 hours   |   489 m gain

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Pushing on, the trail continues along Faja de Pelay which refers to the ‘belt’ or rocky shelf that wraps along the valley wall, about three quarters of the way up.

For the next 7 km, the trail weaves in and out of pine forests beneath a staggering wall of cliffs. The first 3 km have some gentle hills before mostly flattening out.

As you move deeper into the valley, keep an eye on the Circo de Cotatuero where you’ll soon be able to see the Brèche de Roland, a distinct natural cut through the rock shelf which provides a passage between Spain and France.

Where the trees begin to thin, you’ll also be greeted by stunning views of the three peaks that mark the head of the Ordesa Valley – the impressive Monte Perdido flanked by Pico Cilindro and Pico Soum de Ramond. Even from afar, the distinct sedimentary layers of these giants are evident.

Down below, the valley floor is painted in vibrant green, carved by the Rio Arazas and the clear-cut path of the Senda a la Cola de Caballo which runs alongside it.

Look closely and you’ll also be able to pick out the Gradas de Soaso, a multi-level cascade which plunges into a serene turquoise pool.

Moving beyond the tree line, the trail begins to descend gradually towards the Cascada Cola de Caballo, a fitting name for the veil-like cascade which translates to Horse Tail Falls.

Fanning out across the rock face beneath gnarled cliffs, it’s a beautiful waterfall but is also the most popular attraction in the valley and can get incredibly busy and loud.

As you approach the head of the valley, stick to the main trail until you reach the signposted intersection beside the river which indicates the two route options for Refugio de Góriz.

If you’re only walking as far as the waterfall, clamber across the boulders that surrounds the base of the falls to get a closer look and enjoy a well-deserved break before heading back through the valley floor along the Senda a la Cola de Caballo.

For those continuing to the refugio, I’d suggest leaving the waterfall for now and stopping here on your return journey instead.

3.1 km   |   1.5 hours   |   430 m gain

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Now, from the intersection, there are two route options for Refugio de Góriz – por sendero, via a path, or por clavijas which are metal pitons or pegs fixed to the rock face, similar to a via ferrata.

Both routes are clearly signposted and intersect after about 1 km from where they continue along the same trail.

To take the path, head straight up the hill along the rocky trail which leads you on a long gradual switchback, followed by a series of steep zigzags to reach the top of the rise.

The path is clear and well trodden, but there is one short stretch which has a sheer drop off and has been reenforced with concrete.

Once you reach the ledge, the path flattens out and skirts along the top of the cliff line to rejoin the clavijas trail on the far side.

To take the clavijas route, head left at the sign and climb steeply to reach the rock face. From here, a string of pegs and chains are fixed to the rock to assist with the climb to the grassy ledge.

There are no other technical sections along this trail so for those keen to kick things up a notch, you may enjoy this more adventurous route rather than the switchbacks.

Though I didn’t take this route myself, many other hikers did and were not equipped with any special gear.

Just keep in mind that this is the more physically demanding option, with plenty of scrambling required. From what I saw, many hikers opt to take the clavijas up and return via the path.

Where the sendero and clavijas routes connect, the trail continues climbing gradually and veers away from the escarpment, swinging through a rocky channel and up a steep incline to bring you onto the plateau.

From here the views are incredible looking straight down the valley and the ribbon of ashen cliffs that border the southern wall.

Onwards, you’ll see a patch of boulders clustered around the right side of the trail which play host to a family of marmots. Keep an eye out and you should see a few curious little fellas scuttling about or basking in the sunshine.

With just 1 km to go, the trail enters a vast grassy meadow with a small grey hut nestled into the distant hillside and the peak of Monte Perdido now soaring ahead.

After a flat easy stretch, the trail pitches upwards again over a rocky channel that does require some scrambling and ascends gradually until you reach the grassy bowl that surrounds Refugio de Góriz.

During my visit, the refuge was closed for renovations, but ordinarily you can enjoy a meal or drink here for lunch before heading back.

Otherwise, there are plenty of flat rocks scattered about which make an excellent place to settle in for a well-deserved lunch break with one of the most spectacular views around.

Sitting along the GR11 route, the long-distance hiking trail which crosses the entire Spanish Pyrenees, Refugio de Góriz is also a popular place for hikers to stay overnight before summiting Monte Perdido, venturing across to the Valle de Pineta, or crossing over the border into the France.

11.8 km   |   4 hours   |   99 m gain

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When you’re ready, head back the way you came – or by taking the alternate sendero / clavijas route – to Cascada Cola de Caballo.

Thankfully, after plenty of ascent earlier in the day, you’ll be glad to know that you’re in for a much easier afternoon with the return journey being almost entirely downhill, with some sections that descend rather steeply.

Setting off from the waterfall, unfortunately many visitors don’t stick to the official trail and instead fan out causing plenty of erosion to the verdant green pastures that carpet the valley floor.

It might seem like a small act, but multiplied by thousands of people each day, this causes serious damage and unnecessary new trails to form. Please try to stick to the main trail to minimise your impact.

Just 1 km from the waterfall, a proper paved path begins and after a further 1 km you’ll arrive at the beautiful cascade and aqua pool of the Gradas de Soasa.

Don’t forget to look up for a glimpse of the enormous bearded vultures which rule the skies above the valley.

A short way beyond the falls, the paved path gives way to a gravel road surrounded by greenery where rugged cliffs tower overhead. After skirting beneath a rocky overhand, the path enters a leafy beech forest which will provide some much-needed shade for the rest of the hike.

Descending steadily amongst the trees, the trail guides you past a string of beautiful waterfalls.

First up is a small side trail to a lookout for Cascada del Estrecho which peaks over the treetops onto the top of the falls.

Onwards, you’ll reach another fork where the road continues left and a steep rubble path goes straight ahead, descending steeply and taking you past the remaining waterfalls which are well worth the short detour.

Follow the signs for Cascada del Estrecho to reach the base of the falls before continuing on to Cascada de la Cueva and its brilliant turquoise pool.

Beyond the falls, there are two routes heading back to the Pradera which hug either side of the river.

Stick right to rejoin the gravel road, or veer left to reach the bridge where you can see Cascada de Arripas. The bridge also offers spectacular views gazing up at the colossal ochre walls that climb above the tree tops.

The steady descent continues for a further 2 km on opposite banks where you’ll reach another bridge and an even closer vantage point of the craggy spires.

From here, the trail flattens out for the final 1.2 km to bring you back to the Pradera at the mouth of the Ordesa Valley after an epic hike in the Pyrenees.

Ordinarily in peak season, the area will be very busy when you arrive back at the end of the day with hundreds of hikers enjoying a well-earned post-hike drink at the restaurant or waiting for a bus to transport them back to Torla.

That said, the buses are extremely efficient and run constantly in a convoy to get people back as quickly as possible so you shouldn’t need to wait long. Join the queue and have your ticket ready.

If you arrived in complete darkness, try to nab a window seat for the return journey because you’re in for a real treat.

The drive is stunning, if a little hair raising in parts, where the bus driver swings skillfully out over the precipice as you descend the tight hairpin bends that bring you out of the valley.

During my visit, we also spotted a family of Pyrenean chamois and their tiny calves playing on the road which made for a fantastic end to the day.

Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido is one of Spain’s most visited national parks, and the Ordesa Valley is its undisputed star.

This place is extremely popular, for very good reason, and does become exceptionally busy during peak periods including July and August, Easter and any long weekends that fall between May and October.

If you have some flexibility, I’d recommend avoiding these times of year and instead visiting during the shoulder season, such as in June or September, when you can enjoy the area with fewer crowds and at lower prices.

If the height of summer is your only option, aim to visit midweek rather than on weekends to help alleviate overcrowding.

If you are visiting during peak periods, I’d also recommend arriving to Torla as early as possible. This will ensure you’re able to actually find a parking space and head into the park on one of the first buses of the day.

Not only is this a magical time to be in the valley and watch the first beams of sunlight spill over the peaks, you’ll also be able to enjoy the tranquility before the masses begin to filter in.

For the those climbing the valley walls, the crowds quickly disperse and these higher altitude trails remain relatively quiet through the day, but the valley trail, and particularly the Cola de Caballo Waterfall will be swarming with visitors by mid-morning and into the afternoon.

As tempting as the beautifully turquoise plunge pools might be after a sweaty hike, swimming is not allowed in any of the waterways in the Ordesa Valley which is very much a good thing.

Fed by many tributaries that run off the Monte Perdido massif, the Rio Arazas sustains a vast network of delicate ecosystems further downstream.

Just imagine the amount of sunscreen and other chemicals that would end up in these otherwise pristine waterways were the thousands of visitors who enter the valley every day to go for a swim.

If you’re hiking the full route along the Senda de los Cazadores to Refugio de Góriz, you’re in for a massive day and will need plenty of food to keep you fueled.

The restaurant at the Pradera doesn’t open until 7 or 8 a.m. depending on the time of year and will therefore be closed for those arriving on the earliest buses so it’s a good idea to get your breaky and caffeine fix in before rocking up in Torla.

Since I planned to leave Ainsa at 5 a.m. and was going to miss the buffet at my hotel, they kindly arranged a packed breakfast which I was able to eat while queued up for the bus. Thankfully, many local hotels are used to hikers getting up stupidly early and are often happy to arrange this.

If the refuge is operating, you can order simple snacks and drinks here for lunch, but I’d also suggest bringing enough food for a picnic and snacks while you’re on the trail.

Given all the people and animals about, I’d avoid drinking the river water unless you plan to filter it. There is a water fountain at the Pradera where you can fill your water bottle up before setting out.

As an Aussie where pets are strictly prohibited in all national parks, this was one of the most surprising things about hiking in Europe where dogs seem to be widely accepted in the mountains.

Dogs are very much allowed and welcomed in the Ordesa Valley – you’ll see plenty about – but they must be kept on a leash at all times.

It’s also worth keeping in mind that during peak periods when the shuttle buses are operating, dogs must travel in the bus cargo area, regardless of their size, and the buses are able to provide special animal crates for your furry friends.

While pets were certainly common and seemed to be well catered for, I did see one tiny pup that was terrified of being put in his little crate so definitely consider whether your animal is a comfortable traveller.

There is also a limit for how many animals can travel on each bus which may mean a longer wait when there is high demand to return to Torla towards the end of the day.

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