20 January 2025.
Seeking a lesser visited trail in Durmitor National Park? The Sušica Canyon Trail to Škrčko Lake is an excellent choice.
Carving the dramatic western border of Durmitor National Park, the spectacularly rugged Sušica Canyon is the lesser known sister to the famous Tara Canyon.
To reach this remote corner of Montenegro, a narrow mountain road meanders across the rolling hills that sprawl west of Žabljak before meeting a series of rock-strewn hairpin bends that guide you down the steep walls of the glacial valley.
At its base lies the magical expanse of Sušičko Jezero, a seasonal alpine lake fed by the Sušica River and snowmelt trickling down from the Durmitor massif.
With the onset of spring, the lake quickly dries up and transforms into verdant meadows that carpet the valley floor, a vivid swathe of green extending beneath the impressive peaks of the canyon.
It is here at the northern tip of the lake that you’ll find the Sušica Canyon Trail which guides you through lush forests towards Skalala Waterfall and the magnificent Škrčko Lakes Valley.
Encircled in Durmitor’s highest peaks, Veliko Škrčko Jezero is the most beautiful of the park’s eighteen glacial lakes and marks a striking end point to the trail.
Compared with many of the challenging peak trails in the region, the Sušica Canyon Trail is mostly flat and easy, until you reach the steep, rocky ascent around the waterfall. This makes it a fantastic option for those seeking something less demanding, but no less beautiful.
There is also perhaps no better reward than a refreshing swim amongst the mountains once you reach the upper reaches of the valley.
In fact, having already visiting Škrčko Lake from Prutaš Peak a few days earlier, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to return for another alpine dip while exploring the western side of the national park.
Now, while I loved this hike, it’s important to keep in mind that this trail does see far fewer hikers – I met just one other couple along the way – and therefore has some very overgrown sections and seems to be a favourite hiding place for snakes, so be sure to watch your step.
This hiking guide covers everything you need to know to visit Sušica Canyon and hike from Sušičko Lake to Škrčko Lake via Skalala Waterfall.
Distance | 13.2 km return
Duration | 6 hours – allow more time for swimming
Elevation Gain | 600 m
Difficulty | Easy to Moderate
Trailhead | Sušica Hut, Sušičko Jezero
Carved by intense glacial erosion during the Ice Age, Sušica Canyon forms the natural western border of Durmitor National Park and extends for some 15 km where it intersects with the Tara Canyon.
The Sušica Canyon Trail begins from the hiker’s hut at Sušičko Lake which sits at an altitude of 1,140m within the canyon along the stunning Durmitor Ring Road.
From Žabljak, it’s a 24 km drive to the trailhead, though with some rough sections of road, plenty of hairpin bends and several spectacular viewpoints along the way, expect the journey to take at least an hour.
Beyond Bosača, the narrow road crosses the plateau above Tara Canyon and is damaged with potholes and uneven asphalt.
Though it’s still perfectly manageable with a 2WD, be careful of oncoming traffic which tends to stick in the middle to best manoeuvre around the worst bits of road.
As you approach the tiny hamlet of Mala Crna Gora, you’ll reach a newly paved road which meanders to the edge of the Sušica Canyon and follows a series of tight bends that bring you to the valley floor.
The road here is in excellent condition but it is a high rockfall area and there are frequently rocks strewn across the road.
The views are spectacular though and become even more impressive as the rugged cliffs reveal themselves through the trees as you descend the steep gorge walls – keep an eye out for the viewpoint.
Where the road crosses the river, you’ll reach the Durmitor National Park check point where you’ll need to pay the entrance fee. Turn left onto the access road here and in 100 m you’ll arrive at a parking area beside the Sušica Hut.
There is no public transport here so a rental car or taxi are the only options to reach the trailhead.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Podgorica is the best place to pick up your rental car with numerous options available from the airport and downtown area.
I recommend using Discover Cars who offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
Access to Durmitor National Park attracts a €5 entry fee per person per day, or you can purchase an annual pass for €13.50 which covers all national parks in Montenegro for a calendar year.
If you plan to spend more than two days in Durmitor, it’s well worth getting the annual pass which can be purchased on arrival, or online in advance here.
That said, when visiting outside of the peak summer season, I often found the check points and trailheads were unmanned, particularly when starting your hike in the early morning.
Despite being an hour’s drive from the Sušičko Lake trailhead, Žabljak and the gorgeous surrounding countryside makes an ideal base for exploring the various sections of Durmitor National Park.
You’ll find a variety of accommodation available to suit any budget, from cosy guesthouses to remote mountain cabins.
Hostel Hikers Den | For budget travellers, look no further than this homely hostel located right in the heart of town which offers both dormitory and private rooms, a communal kitchen and knowledgeable owners. It also consistently takes home the prize for best hostel in Montenegro. Check rates and availability here.
Srna Chalet | A lovely, wallet-friendly guesthouse located just a short walk from Žabljak’s main square, Srna Chalet offers a range of private rooms with a shared bathroom in a large wooden house. The host is super helpful and knowledgeable on the region, and there’s also a guest kitchen onsite. Check rates and availability here.
Spruce Hill Village | With a stunning mountain setting just 10 minutes from Žabljak, Spruce Hill Village boasts a collection of charming self-contained chalets that are perfect for those eager to escape to the countryside. Guests love the warm hospitality and traditional breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Casa di Pino Eco Lodge | For a touch of luxury, Casa di Pino is an excellent option boasting modern, comfortable rooms, friendly staff, a great breakfast and sauna to melt away those tired muscles. Located within walking distance from town. Check rates and availability here.
Setting off from the northern tip of Sušičko Jezero, the views are immediately impressive.
A sea of tiny white flowers frame the now dried up lake, a vivid green carpet that sprawls beneath the towering walls of the canyon.
Despite being just a few steps from the car, it’s a hard to imagine a more spellbinding scene from which to begin the hike.
Now, there are two main trails across the lake – one which heads straight through the centre and can be wildly overgrown when the vegetation is at its most lush, and a clearer and much better path which traces around the left perimeter.
Needless to say, I’d recommend sticking with the latter option.
So enraptured was I with the view that I mistakenly ventured too far to the right along an initially obvious path that petered out into thick, waist high vegetation on the edge of the lake and I ended up having to clamber up a steep rocky slope to return to the path.
Don’t make the same mistake as I did and be sure to hang left to stick on the correct path when setting off from the car park.
The way should be clear and bring you high above the lake, rather than deviating downhill towards it, eventually becoming a rubble path that weaves in and out of the trees.
Once you’re on the correct trail, the path is mostly clear and easy to follow with no other intersecting routes until you reach the Škrčko Lakes Valley.
At the far end of the lake the trail enters a beautiful section of beech forest and follows a wide flat trail. There’s a sign-posted clearing here where you’ll find a freshwater spring.
Meandering beneath the shaded canopy is wonderfully peaceful. Cheerful morning birdsong fills the air and you may be lucky enough to see a deer foraging on the hillsides that flank the trail.
About 1 km beyond the lake, the trail narrows and becomes terribly overgrown, feeding through a stretch of waist or occasionally shoulder high vegetation.
This section continues for about 600 metres where some bits are clear and easy to navigate, while others are less pleasant and require you to push the tall stems back to forge your path through, with stinging nettles and thorny plants thrown into the mix.
If you’re walking with bare legs and arms, this is the worst bit of the trail, so wearing long pants and a long sleeve shirt is a good idea to avoid the discomfort altogether.
Finally, returning to the far more enjoyable forest trail, the path continues along the flat for a further kilometre before beginning a gentle uphill climb.
Onwards, the gurgle of water permeates the trees and you’ll arrive to the enchanting Sušica River.
Stones encrusted with spongey moss lie strewn across the riverbed, crystalline spring water courses amongst the trees and tiny saplings crowd the water’s edge, reaching for the freckles of warm sunlight that dapple the forest floor.
Enjoying the last of the shade, this is a beautifully serene section that hugs the river bank and guides you to yet another freshwater spring which bubbles up from underground amongst the mossy pebbles.
As summer marches on, much of the river dries up here, along with the lake. Beyond the source of the spring, the vibrant moss begins to fade away revealing the bone dry riverbed bathed in midday sun.
Be sure to cross over the river here to continue the climb up the left slope of the valley. There are trail markers on both sides to guide the way.
Up ahead, the trail swings left, following the bend of the river.
Emerging above the tree line, you’ll hear the roar of the waterfall and be greeted by a wall of craggy peaks towering above.
Cascading over four distinct levels, the Skalala Waterfall surges through a narrow slice in the rocks and it’s possible to clamber down to the small pool at its base for a closer look.
Under the searing midday sun, it’s a lovely spot for a cool reprieve before beginning the most challenging section of the hike.
From here, the trail ascends steeply up a rubble path that switches back and forth up a slope of rockfall for the next 500 metres. The rocks are stable but the way is not always completely clear and I did lose the path for a bit and found myself just picking my own route through the scree.
Curiously, once you’ve climbed above the waterfall, you’ll be able to hear the drone of water coursing underfoot beneath the layer of rocks, making its way from the underground source towards the precipice.
An intriguing and slightly unnerving feature of this trail and something that I haven’t experienced elsewhere in the region.
Returning to the shade of the forest, the trail flattens out before the short final ascent which brings you over a small rise and into a wide clearing that welcomes you to the Škrčko Lakes Valley at 1,686 m.
Nestled beneath an impenetrable amphitheatre of cliffs that ascend into the region’s most formidable peaks, this vast glacial lake marks an impressive bookend to the hike and is certainly worthy of its title as the jewel of Durmitor National Park.
There are plenty of places to enjoy a picnic lunch along the banks of Veliko Škrčko Jezero – head towards the left if you prefer to stay in the sunshine, otherwise you’ll find ample shade amongst the trees on the right bank.
A glorious post-hike swim in this spectacular setting is non negotiable and it’s well worth spending some time lolling about by the water.
If you’re keen to explore a little further, you can also continue for an additional 700 m through the forest around the right side of the lake towards Planinarski dom Škrka, the hiker’s hut, and veer right to reach the much smaller Malo Škrčko Jezero.
I passed through this area when hiking from Prutaš Peak to Škrčko Lake, but it’s an easy detour to add on to this hike as well.
One you’ve soaked up the magical setting and enjoyed a refreshing dip, return back via the same route.
Once back in the forest that blankets the valley floor, the path is almost entirely flat making for a wonderfully relaxed return journey, that is, when you’ve managed to dodge the overgrown sections.
As an Aussie, encountering snakes in the bush is part and parcel of being outdoors, though admittedly, they’re the kind of surprise trail mates I’d rather avoid at all costs.
Suffice to say, I was not expecting to run into SEVEN… yes, seven of them along this trail. After the fourth, I thought surely that had to be it for the day, but, like that scene from Indiana Jones (basically my worst nightmare) they just kept coming.
For context, I visited Durmitor at the start of June during an early summer heatwave and was one of just three people hiking the trail that day, so really, the snakes had very little chance of being disturbed.
All of the snakes were seen in the afternoon during the hottest part of the day when the valley was awash with sunshine and snakes are more likely to be active. Five of them were located in the section above the waterfall.
All but two of the snakes were completely harmless and scattered quickly as I approached.
Most were grass snakes, a black, skittish non-venomous creature that are common across the Balkans and tend to hang around water so the lake provides a perfect habitat for them. But I did also encounter a beautiful horned viper which are highly venomous.
Now, this is not to deter any would be hikers, but it is a strong reminder to keep an eye on where you place your feet, particularly when walking through the overgrown sections and around the waterways.
As always, if you encounter a snake, give them space to move off of their own afford. Stamping your feet or tapping a hiking pole on the ground from a distance to create vibrations can help encourage them on if they’re being stubborn or blocking your path.
On a searing hot summer’s day, ice cold spring water feels like a small luxury when you’re out in the wilderness.
Along this trail, you’ll find three springs available, four if you push on to the Škrka Hiker’s Hut.
The first is located at the trailhead on the road behind the Sušica Hut (you’ll likely see severals locals arriving to fill up their large water drums), the next is at the southern end of the Sušičko Lake just off the path, and finally there is a natural source bubbling up from underground in the riverbed at the 4.5 km mark.
At the Škrka Hut, the spring is located just behind the building on the right.
Be sure to bring plenty of water for the duration of the hike just in case, but this is a great way to replenish your supply.
Once you leave Žabljak, there are no shops, restaurants or other facilities until you arrive back in town. Be sure to pick up all the food you’ll need for lunch and snacks before setting off, especially if you’re planning to camp overnight at the lake.
There are two main supermarkets – VOLI and Idea – located in the centre of town, and the fantastic Shambhala Bakery for fresh bread and sweet treats.
If you’re travelling around the Durmitor Ring Road, you’ll find a handful of restaurants and guesthouses in Nedajno and Trsa where you can enjoy a post-hike meal.
My most recent visit to Durmitor happened to coincide with a heatwave and the arrival of a Saharan dust storm which essentially transformed the ordinarily mild mountains into an open air sauna.
Compared to many other trails in Durmitor which carry you into the higher altitudes where the air is refreshingly cool and breezy, the heat in the valley can be stifling and once you emerge above the tree line, the sun is brutal.
Be sure to bring and wear plenty of sun protection, carry enough water to keep you properly hydrated and refill when you can.
Despite this being a relatively easy trail, it’s also a good idea to get an early start that will allow you to commence your return journey before the exceptionally hot peak temperatures hit at mid-afternoon.
Something I love about Durmitor National Park is that it’s extremely well set up for day hikes, but there are also plenty of options for those seeking longer adventures.
The Sušica Canyon Trail falls along the Via Dinarica, the long-distance trail that traverses the entire Balkan Peninsular, and crosses Durmitor National Park from the Black Lake, to Planinica and Škrčko Lake before pushing on to Sušičko Jezero.
Škrčko Lake also sits beneath some of Durmitor’s most magnificent peaks and is connected to many of the trails that lead across the massif – such as Prutaš, Medjed, Planinica and Bobotov Kuk – making it an excellent stopping off, provided you’re equipped with a tent and sufficient food to stay overnight
Given the sheer walls and steep terrain that surround the lake, needless to say these are all challenging routes and recommended for fit and experienced hikers.
Given the Sušica Canyon Trail is located around a third of the way along the scenic Durmitor Ring Road which combines parts of Panoramic Drive 1 and 2, it’s a perfect opportunity to pair the entire drive with this hike.
Instead of heading straight back to Žabljak, keep travelling west towards Trsa and return via the southern section of the loop through Sedlo Pass.
Time it right and you should reach this beautiful section of Durmitor just in time for sunset when the landscapes and peaks are awash with golden light.
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