19 April 2025.
The Three Peaks Trail that connects Volušnica, Talijanka and Popadija is one of the best hikes in Montenegro’s Prokletije National Park. This guide has everything you need to know.
Wrapped in a chain of captivating limestone peaks, the enchanting Grebaje Valley sets the scene for an unforgettable day of hiking in Prokletije National Park.
Guiding you between the summits of Volušnica, Talijanka and Popadija which dominate the northwest flank of the valley, the Three Peaks Trail traces through lush tracts of beech forest and blueberry-filled slopes, across vertiginous cliffs and narrow ridgelines, with the chiselled facade of the wildly impressive Karanfili massif never far from view.
It’s undoubtably one of the best hikes in Montenegro and showcases some of the most beautiful scenery in the Accursed Mountains.
I climbed Talijanka as part of my fantastic two-week Peaks of the Balkans adventure, but really for anyone visiting Prokletije National Park, this hike should not be missed and this guide covers everything you need to know.
Distance | 10 km
Duration | 5 hours
Difficulty | Moderate
Elevation Gain | 961 m
Trailhead | Katun Maja Karanfil
From Podgorica, it’s around a 3-hour / 125 km drive to reach Grebaje Valley via the A1 highway to Mateševo where you can jump on the M9 through the mountains to Andrijevica. Keep an eye out for the formidable triple peak of Komovi soaring above the treetops as you make your way along this newly paved zigzag road.
The A1 is a toll road and costs €3.50, payable by cash or card at the toll booth.
If you’d prefer to avoid the highway, the much slower and rougher P19 road winds through the countryside and is a feasible alternative to reach Mateševo.
Veering south from Andrijevica, continue past Plav and turn onto the slightly worse for wear GU02 road through Gusinje into the Grebaje Valley.
The road is paved until you reach the border of Prokletije National Park, with the final 1 km into Grebaje Dolina (the village) being unsealed.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Podgorica is the best place to pick up your rental car with numerous options available from the airport and downtown area. Tivat is also a decent alternative for those arriving from the coast.
I recommend using Discover Cars who offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
There is no public transport directly to Grebaje Valley, however it’s possible to travel as far as Plav or Gusinje by bus and either take a taxi or walk from there.
A handful of buses depart daily from Podgorica Bus Station for Plav, continuing onto Gusinje by request. The trip takes around 4 hours and costs €13. There’s also a €1 baggage fee to stow your luggage. Check the timetable here.
In Plav, you’ll usually find at least one taxi hovering around the bus station, though in Gusinje they’re slightly more elusive. The tourist information office recommended us a local driver Radončić Sajo (+382 69 334 748) who we contacted via WhatsApp and who drove us to and from the valley without issue.
Expect to pay around €30 from Plav or €15 from Gusinje.
Alternatively, it’s 7 km from Gusinje to Grebaje and some visitors who are light on luggage choose to walk the remainder of the route instead.
In Grebaje Dolina, you’ll find around half a dozen options for accommodation, primarily made up of charming wooden cabins that pepper the roadside and offer spectacular views of the surrounding peaks.
There are just two restaurants in the village and no shops so it’s a good idea to stock on supplies in Podgorica or Plav before arriving. Most cabins at least include a fridge and a kettle.
Located just half an hour away, Plav is also a possibility to stay overnight, albeit a far less scenic one, offering a wider range of accommodation, restaurants, shops and cafes.
Bungalows Prokletije | Set in a lovely garden between the mountains, we stayed at these cute-as-a-button bungalows which offer comfortable loft beds and cosy rooms equipped with a fridge and kettle. Small and simple but functional. Check rates and availability here.
Ema Apartments | For those that would prefer to be located in Plav, Ema Apartments offers modern, beautifully appointed rooms equipped with a kitchenette and ensuite set just back from the lake. Enjoy access to the outdoor terrace with a backdrop of Prokletije’s spectacular peaks. Check rates and availability here.
Prokletije National Park attracts a €3 daily entry fee and access to the Grebaje Valley is controlled at the park boundary where you’ll need to pay at the gate on arrival.
If you’re spending a few days in Grebaje, you’ll only need to pay once on your way in, but if you travel or hike elsewhere within the region, such as in the Ropojana Valley, you’ll have to pay the fee every time you reenter the national park.
Those visiting multiple national parks in their Montenegro itinerary may prefer to purchase the national parks annual pass which is valid for all national parks in Montenegro for a calendar year and costs €13.50. See fee details here.
The Three Peaks Trail can technically be hiked in either direction, though my preference is certainly to travel clockwise, progressing through Volušnica, Talijanka and Popadija where the views become increasingly more impressive.
From the floor of the Grebaje Valley, Volušnica is the only peak of the trio that is visible, its vertiginous cliffs a formidable presence overhead that seem impossible to conquer.
Yet, the trail up is actually rather straightforward, ascending the northwest flank via a gradual slope, before skirting around the ridge to connect Talijanka and Popadija.
Beginning from just behind Katun Maja Karanfil, the route crosses a section of uneven rockfall before joining a dirt road, crossing over the dried Volusnica River and reaching a blocked gate that directs you up a small path to the left.
Pitching steeply upwards, the well-trodden trail switches back and forth through a lush belt of beech forest that decorates the base of the mountain before emerging into a wide grassy bowl encircled by the three peaks that rise along its perimeter.
In 2.5 km, you’ll reach an intersection besides a small stream just beyond the tree line. Veer left here to continue on to Volušnica.
Forging through grassy meadows peppered with colourful wildflowers, stunted bushes and large slabs of chiselled white rock, the trail is engulfed by a tight knot of trees just before the peak.
Following just 1.5 hours on trail, you’ll emerge onto the rocky summit of Volušnica at 1,879 m.
Peering over the escarpment, the cliffs plunge sharply into the green stripe of the Grebaje Valley with the magnificent Karanfili massif commanding the opposite flank.
After days of hiking in the Accursed Mountains where this impressive cluster of jagged peaks could often be seen hovering on the periphery or distant horizon, finally getting to see them up close on the final day of our two-week hiking trip was something truly special.
It’s a phenomenal view and the first of many spectacular vantage points that await along the trail.
Pushing on, it’s a further hour to the delicate thimble-like summit of Talijanka, the highest of the three peaks.
Take the trail to the left through the trees, ascending gradually along the narrow escarpment. The path scuttles very close to the edge in parts and visits another pair of exceptional viewpoints that jut out along the cliff face and offer up an ever changing perspective of the string of peaks that tower above the valley.
During our visit in mid-July, this entire stretch also brought an explosion of wild blueberries cascading across the slopes and our determined marching pace quickly ground to a barely discernible shuffle as we stopped every few steps to collect a new handful of plump, tangy berries.
As Aussies, the novelty of this truly never wears off and we could not have been happier munching our way along the cliff line.
Herds of sheep are also a common occurrence up here, guided by their shepherds and diligent sheepdogs along the undulating contours of the mountain in search of lush summer pastures.
Approaching the head of the valley, the trail bends to the right and rears up sharply, beginning the exceedingly steep and sometimes slippery climb to Talijanka at 2,057 m.
Marking the border with Albania where the peak is known as Maja e Vajushës, the views are magnificent, rewarding visitors with a sweeping panorama that takes in the stark lunar landscapes of the Albanian Alps, the vast green wilderness of Prokletije National Park and the spiky peaks that rise between the Grebaje and Ropojana Valleys.
With one of Montenegro’s most beautiful vistas as your backdrop, Talijanka makes an excellent spot for lunch, although the summit can get rather busy. Best is to continue a short way along the ridgeline to find a quiet spot nearby.
To complete the trio, Popadija lies just 500 m away at 2,030 m.
Continue straight over the top of Talijanka and down the other side, scuttling along the border ridge that connects the two peaks before climbing gently to reach the final summit of the day.
Facing north, Popadija overlooks the shallow green valley that runs parallel to Grebaje, criss crossed in trails and speckled with summer katuns.
From here, the trail pitches down sharply for around 300 m to reach the saddle at 1,874 m where several trails intersect.
This short stretch is steep, rocky and slippery and, if you’re anything like me and let your inner grandma take over on these precarious slopes, it can be slow going. Hiking poles and sturdy boots are a good idea for this bit.
Shortly beyond the saddle, a patch of trees crowd around the trail providing some much-needed shade and the terrain begins to flatten out, descending at a more gradual pace. This essentially marks the homestretch of the hike with just 3.5 km of downhill to go.
Onwards, the path weaves slowly down the hillside – another delightful blueberry hotspot – bringing you back alongside the pretty stream that courses through the basin and the main intersection from earlier in the day.
Returning to the refreshing cool of the beech forest, follow the wide track back to the road for the final descent into Grebaje Valley.
The trail can comfortably be completed in 5 hours, though it’s worth factoring in more time for a decent lunch break at the summit and, if you’re anything like us, the many (many!) instances you’ll likely get distracted foraging for blueberries.
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