8 March 2025.
Planning a visit to Virpazar and Lake Skadar? This guide has you covered with everything you need to know.
I first visited Virpazar back in 2016, arriving to what was then a sleepy stone village and being greeted with warm smiles and a welcome tipple of cinnamon and honey rakia, homemade, of course, from a tightly-held family recipe.
Lounging on the patio beneath a canopy of tangled grapevines, I had my first glimpse of the shimmering blue expanse of Lake Skadar wedged between a belt of vivid green wetlands and chain of razor sharp peaks. Mildly dazed from the heat (or was that the rakia), the afternoon melted away thumbing through the pages of a novel and watching boats zip back and forth across the water until a tangerine stain bled across the sky to close out the day.
Cocooned in the warmth of a Balkan summer with a cool breeze caressing my freckled face, it was the kind of blissful tranquility from a time long gone that I still dream of, with only the shifting colours of the landscape to reveal the slow march of time.
After a month of hiking my way across Montenegro this past summer, from the mountains of Durmitor, Komovi and Lukavica to the fantastic Peaks of the Balkans trail, I decided a return visit to this quiet countryside retreat would be the perfect antidote for tired feet and a mounting pile of work.
These days, Virpazar’s pocket-sized centre is a little more frenetic, but it remains one of the best places in Montenegro to experience the beauty of Lake Skadar – its vast wetlands, abundant bird life and fertile landscapes replete with vineyards and orchards.
It also makes an ideal base for exploring the wider area located within an hour from Rijeka Crnojevića, the famous Pavlova Strana Viewpoint, Lipa Cave and the many remote fortresses, villages and pebble beaches that freckle the lake’s mountainous shoreline.
Many of Virpazar’s key attractions can easily be ticked off in one day making it a popular day-trip destination, but those keen to enjoy the area at a slower pace by swapping the boat tour for a kayaking adventure or ditching your car for an afternoon on the bike, and exploring the picturesque countryside that surrounds Lake Skadar, you’ll need at least two days.
This guide covers all the best things to do in Virpazar and along the beautiful shores of Lake Skadar.
Virpazar acts as the gateway to Lake Skadar and can be reached by car, train and bus.
Once you’ve arrived, the village centre is absolutely tiny with a single road, bridge and pedestrian zone that can be covered on foot in around 10 minutes. For those intending to visit the nearby villages and viewpoints that surround the lake, having your own vehicle is best.
Virpazar lies directly off the M2 around an hour from Budva and Cetinje and 40 minutes from Podgorica.
First up, it’s worth mentioning that summer traffic along this road can get pretty darn awful, especially on weekends when what feels like half the country descends on the coast.
As a popular day-trip destination, the influx of visitors to Virpazar also causes major issues with localised congestion and parking.
If you’re travelling in July or August, I’d recommend avoiding the weekend here and instead aim to arrive midweek in the morning or late afternoon rather than in the middle of the day.
There are four main parking zones in and around Virpazar which, again, descend into a chaotic cacophony of blaring horns, tight manoeuvrings and traffic jams during peak times. Steel your nerves and arrive with a bucket or two of patience.
Inside the centre, you’ll find parking here, here and here, located on either side of the bridge and alongside the VOLI supermarket.
That said, if you’re visiting on a day-trip, I’d actually recommend using the parking area just outside the city centre located here.
It’s essentially just a large, free gravel carpark, but I assure you, it’ll be far less stressful than trying to nab one of the spots in town. You’ll need to cross over the main road and train tracks to reach the side road that leads into the village.
—
FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // Podgorica is the best place to pick up your rental car in Montenegro with numerous options available from the airport and downtown area. I recommend using Discover Cars who offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
Reasonably frequent trains and buses zip between Podgorica and Montenegro’s south coast (including Sutomare and Bar) and call in at Virpazar.
For southbound buses from Podgorica, the bus stops here at the same gravel carpark mentioned above. Northbound services from the coast stop here near the train station and a short way up the road you’ll meet the 500 m walking track that leads into Virpazar.
Though many buses pass the village when travelling up the M2, it isn’t always an official stop so ensure you let the driver or attendant know where you’re going and be ready to get off at the correct location.
There are usually at least a handful of services each day. Check the timetable here.
Trains are operated by ZPCG and stop at the Virpazar Train Station located here along the Podgorica-Bar route. To reach the village, take the same walkway as above.
From Podgorica or Bar, tickets can be purchased from the ticket office, however there’s no office in Virpazar itself so you’ll need to buy your ticket onboard when departing. Check the train timetable here.
—
TOP TIP |
As Virpazar lies along the main route that connects the capital with the coast, expect both buses and trains to be extremely hot and crowded over summer weekends and peak periods when everyone makes a beeline for the turquoise riviera.
Bring plenty of water, try to stay near a window for the breeze and expect that you may be required to stand for part or all of your trip.
When choosing accommodation in Virpazar, the bustling village centre provides easy access to local restaurants, the supermarket and the boats, while you’ll find a more peaceful, rural feel and cheaper rates at the laidback community located 1.5 km south of the centre or in nearby Godinje.
I’ve stayed in both and each have their perks depending on the vibe you’re after and how long you’re staying for.
Guesthouse Vukasevic | A decent budget choice in the heart of Virpazar with a friendly host and comfortable rooms with attached balconies that look onto a quiet leafy square. Check rates and availability here.
Jocker | A homely affordable option near the centre where you’ll get to experience the warmest of Montenegrin hospitality. Guests love the wonderful hosts, traditional home cooked meals and lovely terrace views overlooking the lake at this simple, fuss-free accommodation. Check rates and availability here.
Lake Valley | I passed this place almost everyday on my bike ride to and from the centre and it never failed to make me a teeny bit jealous. This property boasts a collection of cosy stone chalets set around a central courtyard and pool. A welcome oasis in the stifling summer heat and one of the best-rated options in town, though it is on the pricier side. Check rates and availability here.
Hotel De‘Andros | This enormous newly-built hotel holds a prime patch of real estate right on the edge of the lake with stunning views across the water to the mountains beyond. Rooms are modern and elegant, with all the amenities you’d expect from a 4-star establishment including a fitness and wellness centre, dedicated parking, onsite restaurant and rooftop pool and bar. It’s the only luxury option in town, though lacks the much of the soul that you’ll find at the family run guesthouses elsewhere in the village. Check rates and availability here.
TOP TIP |
If you’re planning to self-cater at your accommodation in Virpazar, the VOLI Supermarket is the only option directly in town.
Frustratingly, it seems to be pretty common practice for staff to jack up the prices or purposely scan the incorrect products to massively inflate prices for tourists so be sure to keep a close eye on your bill. I had read this in many reviews before shopping and was skeptical, but it definitely happens, and often customers are too flustered bagging their groceries and organising their cash to notice the charges or dispute them until later.
As a visitor, I generally expect and accept that some degree of tourist-tax will be applied here and there and, in reality, it’s usually just a few euros tacked on, but in principle, having the country’s largest retailer charging four times the labelled price for a loaf of bread or sneaking in a list of unpurchased items can definitely leave a bad taste in your mouth.
Straddling the border between Montenegro and Albania, this vast watery expanse is the largest in the Balkans and is known by many names – Lake Skadar or Skadarsko Jezero in Montenegro, and Shkodra Lake or Liqeni i Shkodrës in Albania.
Tucked away on the northwest shore of the lake, Virpazar is a hive of activity but is just one of many small communities scattered along the solitary road that spans the length of the basin towards the Albanian border.
With fertile soils, an ideal microclimate and close proximity to the lake, many of these remote hamlets relied on the cultivation of fresh produce, winemaking and fishing which are an ingrained part of the local culture.
Alongside centuries of human history, reed beds and mosaics of water lilies proliferated into a thriving swathe of significant wetland and one of the most biodiverse bird and invertebrate habitats in Europe.
In 1983, the Montenegrin portion of Lake Skadar was designated as a national park and was later recognised internationally as both an important wetland (Ramsar) and a critical bird habitat (BirdLife).
Today, Lake Skadar remains the lifeblood of its nearby communities and is a delightful place to explore, both from the water or the mountainous countryside that surrounds it.
There is €5 entry fee per day for Lake Skadar National Park which applies to anyone heading out on the water and is charged in addition to the price of boat or kayaking tours.
If you plan to visit multiple national parks in Montenegro, such as Durmitor, Prokletije or Biogradska Gora, consider purchasing an annual pass which covers all national park visits for a calendar year and costs €13.50.
A boat tour on scenic Lake Skadar is the thing to do in Virpazar and brings you directly through the heart of the wetlands.
Most boats follow a similar route puttering down the serpentine river that peels away from the village, across the lake and under the bridge before dialing down the engine to a slow crawl and entering the vast protected wetlands that expand around the coves, islets and inlets that cover the northwestern fringes of the lake.
Framed in pyramid-shaped mountains, there are many beautiful views along the way, but the highlight is perhaps weaving amongst the sinuous arteries that extend deep into the patchwork of lime green lily pads and play host to an abundance of bird life.
Adorably fluffy grebe chicks that could easily fit in the palm of your hand, sleek cormorants that dart through the watery depths and enormous pelicans that soar through the sky and skid across the water surface as they come into land.
Once inside the wetlands, most boats make a slow beeline for Monastery Kom and swing around the trio of small islands – Kamenik, Mala Čakovica and Velja Čakovica – before stopping for guests to dive in for a swim and enjoy refreshments on board.
Some boats take a more roundabout route up the Morača River which begins as a brilliant turquoise thread in the mountains of central Montenegro and surges through the Morača Canyon and central Podgorica to arrive in Lake Skadar.
—
BOOK YOUR BOAT TOUR |
Clustered around the bridge in Virpazar you’ll find numerous stands offering group tours that operate to a fixed schedule or private tours that run on demand though I’d suggest booking in advance during peak periods. Prices start from around €15 pp for group tours (plus the €5 Lake Skadar entry fee) and usually last for 2 to 3 hours.
The local guides are extremely knowledgable, exude a deep passion for the birdlife and ecology of the area and take great pride in sharing this with their visitors.
While boats leave throughout the day, sunrise and sunset are really the best time to be out on the water when the mountains burn brightly in the changing colours of dawn and dusk and the waterbirds are far more active.
Keen to explore at a slower pace, I skipped the boat tour on this visit and instead hired a kayak, spending the entire day paddling amongst the lilies and islands.
It’s a beautiful way experience the lake, see the waterbirds up close without the disturbance of a rolling engine and stop off for a swim at will, but it’s certainly hard work.
Heading as far as Kamenik creates a circuit of at least 15 km, with the addition of any detours you might take through the meandering passages that unfurl through the wetlands and beg to be explored.
Crossing the unprotected corner of the lake between the Virpazar channel and the other side of the bridge in the early morning calm is mostly straightforward, but when the wind picks up in the afternoon, it can make getting back through the chop slightly more challenging.
Still, it’s a wonderful way to explore and makes for a full day adventure.
My guesthouse host, who is also a tour guide, gave me an excellent run down on the best route to take and you’ll also find a few maps scattered around town indicating the highlights.
Essentially, head down the main waterway from Virpazar and veer right along the small side channel that deposits you into the lake. From here, aim directly for the bridge, past Fort Lesendro and lean to the right to enter the wetlands.
For a shorter visit, stick around this area, taking your time to move between the reeds and ocean of lily pads that lie around the mouth of the Morača River.
For a more active day out, continue onwards to the islands, swinging through the gap between Kamenik and Mala Čakovica and entering the lilies that swell around their eastern flanks. Keep in mind that the currents can pick up through this channel so I would only suggest travelling this far if you’re a confident and fit paddler.
To get back, weave your way through the wetlands and, if you’ve still got some fuel in the tank, consider crossing to the opposite side for a look at the small hillside chapel and enjoying a swim before heading back under the bridge and across the lake.
This final stretch is by far the toughest and often means paddling into the wind which isn’t ideal when your arms are likely already starting to feel like jelly.
—
RENT A KAYAK |
Prices for kayak rental start at €5 per hour or €20 per day. I rented mine through my guesthouse but virtually every tour company offers both single and double kayaks for rent.
As always, everything on board will get completely soaked so definitely keep any valuables in a dry bag which should be provided for you as well as a life jacket. It can also get extremely hot being out in the sun all day so definitely bring plenty of water, sun protection, swimmers and a towel.
There are three traditional restaurants located around the bridge area for lunch, otherwise bring your own food and plenty of snacks because your arms will be getting a solid work out.
Cradled in a fertile basin 4 km south of Virpazar, the small community of Godinje holds a deep-seated tradition for viniculture and fruit production which, according to legend, has endured for more than a thousand years.
Rows of vineyards consume every available plot of land punctured by tall trees flush with fruit, while small roadside stalls are peppered throughout the village selling punnets of hand-picked berries, bundles of plump, purple figs, local honey, olive oil, and homemade wine and rakia.
After a chat with a very friendly owner that turned into an impromptu tasting of almost every flavour, I left feeling very chuffed (and a little tipsy) with a bottle of wonderfully smooth and far too easy to drink raspberry brandy.
In the heart of the village you’ll find a concrete memorial dedicated to ‘those who fell for freedom’ perched on a small hilltop, while the church and cemetery of Saint Nicholas lie anchored on the surrounding slopes alongside a thread of natural springs that once made the area a particularly attractive place to settle.
Less than 100 residents remain in Godinje, many of which descend from the same ancestral clan, Lekovići, after which the zigzag road to Stari Selo, the oldest part of Godinje, is also named.
Here you’ll find a tight knot of traditional timeworn stone houses that sit apart from the rest of the village on the hillside.
Framed in greenery, the valley sinks into a swathe of forest and wetland habitat that extends toward the lake. If you continue for a further 2 km beyond the village, you’ll reach the small pebble strip of Godinje Beach surrounded by pockets of lily pads.
—
VISIT GODINJE |
The road between the Virpazar and Godinje climbs high above the lake past several excellent vantage points. Don’t miss the Lake Skadar and Godinje Viewpoints.
Most visitors arrive in Godinje by car and continue west along the P16, stopping at the small communities and lookouts as they meander through the hills that encircle Lake Skadar towards Stegvas Viewpoint which stands guard along the Albanian border.
Alternatively, it’s perfect for visiting by bike though prepare to tackle the small hill that rises up between the two villages with around 90 m of elevation gain. I was provided with a bike by my guesthouse, but it’s also possible to rent bikes in town for around €10 per day.
An afternoon visit is ideal where you can enjoy a swim at the beach and explore the village before returning to the viewpoint in time to watch the sunset across the lake.
Perched on a narrow promontory above Virpazar, Besac Fortress overlooks the vast Crmnica basin, believed to be the birthplace of Montenegro’s wine culture, and across Lake Skadar towards the distinct twin peaks of Vranjina.
This strategically placed medieval fortification has lived many lives dating back to 1478 when Montenegro fell under the rule of the Ottoman Empire, though it’s believed to have existed in some form even before Turkish control.
Between WWl and WWll, it acted as both a military stronghold and a prison before being abandoned and later sustaining significant damage from an earthquake in 1979 which became the most severe in Montenegro’s history.
From 2013, the fortress underwent heavy restorations and more recently was transformed into a dining venue and wine museum – the Besac Heritage Retreat.
During my first visit, the fortress was deserted with free and uncontrolled access allowing you to wander around the ramparts, central watchtower complex and barracks. Since its makeover, there is a slightly contentious €2 entry fee, though this seems to be charged indiscriminately to visitors.
Personally, I think the views are just as good from behind the fortress where a rough track peels off to the left of the parking area and climbs to a lookout that sits higher up the hill and gazes over the stone complex and the fertile basin that sprawls out below.
Unless you’re visiting the restaurant, I’d suggest skipping the interior and enjoying the views from here instead.
—
VISIT BESAC FORTRESS |
Besac Fortress sits just 750 m from Virpazar and can be reached by car, bike or on foot via the P16 before turning right at the Besac sign for the final 200 m.
Entry costs €2 and the complex is open between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m., though before sunset is the best time to visit when the valley is bathed in golden light.
Though I didn’t eat at the restaurant myself, it holds a lovely location set amongst the stone facades of the fortress and by all accounts seems to offer an enjoyable dining experience.
As the thriving heart of Montenegro’s wine industry, Virpazar is the best place to discover the roots of winemaking in the region.
Bordered by an arc of furrowed mountains, the vast Crmnica Basin or Crmnički Polje that extends behind Virpazar around its eponymous river, as well as many of the valleys that surround the lake, play host to a tapestry of vineyards that have been cultivated for centuries with knowledge and traditions passed down over generations.
Winemaking in Montenegro dates back more than 2,000 years with its rolling terrain, ideal climate and rich soils which allowed vines and viticulture to thrive. To this day, many traditional practices remain such as hand harvesting of grapes and natural fermentation in wooden barrels.
The ancient red Vranac is the most widespread and beloved grape variety accounting for up to 70% of local wine production, while Krstač is the prevalent white variety.
While this is not something I did personally, if you’re a wine enthusiast, you’ll see signs for wineries absolutely everywhere, with the core group of establishments located between Virpazar and Boljevici, or in Godinje.
Alternatively, Montenegrin wines are extremely affordable and proudly displayed on virtually every menu so don’t miss the opportunity to sample a glass over dinner, or pick up a bottle from the market and enjoy from your balcony with nibbles and the sunset.
Rijeka Crnojevića, Pavlova Strana Viewpoint and Lipa Cave – three notable attractions near Lake Skadar – all lie within 30 minutes of each other and around an hour of Virpazar.
Combining them makes for a wonderfully scenic day trip or eventful travel day as you make your way between Virpazar and Cetinje, Kotor or Budva.
Beginning with Rijeka Crnojevića, this picturesque village has its origins in the late 1470s when it was known as Obod and designated by ruler Ivan Crnojević as the capital of Zeta, the medieval municipality that encompassed the southwestern corner of current-day Montenegro and northern Albania, in order to escape the Turkish army.
Held amongst the verdant folds of the mountains along the river of the same name, it was once a significant outpost with a strategic, fortified location that allowed direct access to the lake and fell along the historic road that led between Virpazar and Cetinje.
Today this pocket of river is mostly lined with sun-drenched restaurants and sightseeing boats, but many of the old tumbledown stone buildings still remain speckled through the village having been abandoned and fallen into disrepair.
The Danilov Most, a double-arched limestone bridge that spans across the river, is the area’s most popular attraction, but for those keen to explore further, there are a number of curious sights nearby.
Heading west from the village on foot, a dirt road swings past the old hydroelectric power plant and joins a walking track that leads to the cave of Obodska Pećina.
The lush trail hugs the river which swells into large turquoise pools and churns through a thread of cascades, before passing the moss and ivy-covered mill and ascending a steep boulder field to reach the vast cavern.
People have gotten lost for hours and even days amongst its network of tunnels which peel off and lead deep into the mountain. If you’re not equipped and experienced, it’s recommended to only go as far as the opening chamber where you can keep the mouth of the cave within view. Entering is entirely at your own risk.
Returning back through Rijeka Crnojevića, drive east towards the Pavlova Strana Viewpoint which is perhaps the most iconic vantage point of Lake Skadar, reminiscent of a green horseshoe framed in ribbons of lime green water lilies that bends around the mountains.
This section of countryside which wraps around the northwest fringes of the lake is beautiful, defined by rugged terrain, remote villages, protected coves and tiny islets. The hamlet of Karuč is particularly picturesque, though the roads here are narrow and strewn with potholes.
Rounding out the day, navigate back to the main road and make a beeline for Lipa Cave where you’ll be guided through the web of underground passages and enormous chambers of this unique karstic system.
The cave is open from April to November with 3 to 5 hourlong guided tours operating on a set schedule throughout the day. With a consistently cool temperature, it’s also a fantastic way to escape the intense summer heat for a short while – you might even need a sweater. See further information here.
* This post includes affiliate links and any purchases made through these links will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. *
