28 February 2025.
Walking the storied Vradeto Steps is like stepping back in time, following in the well-trodden footsteps of centuries of history. This short guide covers everything you need to know for this quintessential Zagori trail.
Of Zagori’s 46 stone villages, known collectively as Zagorochoria, Vradeto is the highest and most isolated of the group, tucked away above the northern flank of the Mezaria Gorge at 1,340 m.
For centuries, these remote mountain villages have been connected via a web of rambling trails, arched bridges, unique cobbled stairs and intricate stone pathways which extend across the region.
But for Vradeto, the solitary path that traversed the gorge to its lofty perch and comprised a distinct serpentine staircase known as the Vradeto Steps or Skala of Vradeto was a lifeline for villagers and acted as the only means of access, facilitating both trade and travel with its neighbouring communities.
As infrastructure improved and these historic footpaths gave way to roads, the rugged terrain which separated Vradeto from the surrounding villages presented an ongoing challenge.
In fact, this trail and the Vradeto Steps remained as the sole access route for Vradeto until the early 1970s when a twisting, roundabout road was finally completed which skirted around the far-reaching fingers of the gorge, marked by ravines and craggy outcrops, to reach the secluded hilltop village.
Today, this curious staircase remains knitted into the gorge wall and woven into the tapestry of the region’s story. Following this centuries-old cobbled footpath is truly like stepping back in time and for history aficionados visiting Zagori, it has almost become a place of pilgrimage.
The Vradeto Steps themselves extend for just 600 metres, unfurling over 17 hairpin bends that cling desperately to the cliff face.
The total walk is slightly longer though, spanning through the wonderfully lush gorge engulfed in lime green foliage and wildflowers, across two ivy-encrusted stone bridges, past a hilltop chapel and a cave as you make your way between the villages of Kapesovo and Vradeto.
Vradeto is also the gateway for the magnificent Beloi Viewpoint which is an essential addition to the Vradeto Steps walk where you’ll find best Vikos Gorge viewpoint in the region.
This short guide covers everything you need to know for walking the Vradeto Steps and Beloi Viewpoint, whether you’re visiting on a day trip or passing through as part of a longer Zagori excursion.
There are two main ways to see the Vradeto Steps.
Either along the full walking track that connects Kapesovo and Vradeto with the optional but absolutely worthwhile detour to Beloi Viewpoint, or by starting on the fringes of Vradeto and descending directly down the snaking staircase into the gorge and right back up again for a straightforward 3.5 km walk.
Unless you’re extremely short on time, I’d highly recommend opting for the longer version from Kapesovo to best experience the area, taking in the gorge-ous (see what I did there) views across both Mezaria and Vikos and following in the footsteps of those who have long used these historic steps as their daily commute.
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Distance | 6 km return (10 km to Beloi Viewpoint)
Duration | 2 to 3 hours
Difficulty | Easy
Elevation Gain | 360 m (531 m)
Trailhead | Kapesovo
The easiest way to reach the Vradeto Steps trailhead in Kapesovo is by renting a car in Ioannina, the gateway to Zagori, which I’d highly recommend to get the most out of your visit.
Kapesovo lies 43 km or about an hour from Ioannina along the busy road to Metamorfosi where you’ll need to turn off and follow the well-signposted route towards Vradeto.
Be sure to stop at the historic Kokkorou Stone Bridge along the way just before the key intersection which diverts left to Kapesovo and Vradeto or right to Kipoi.
As you approach Kapesovo, continue around the hairpin bend to bypass the village and in 300 m turn left. You’ll see a wide gravel shoulder and parking bay here marking the starting point for the Vradeto Steps walk.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // There is next to no public transport in the region so having your own wheels is essential to best explore wonderful Zagori.
Ioannina is the ideal place to collect your rental car with several companies located in both the airport and city centre. Alternatively, Athens or Thessaloniki are major hubs for those arriving from further afield.
I recommend using Discover Cars which offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region. Find the best deals here.
If you’d prefer not to get behind the wheel, it’s also possible to arrange a taxi from Ioannina to Kapesovo, Vradeto or any of the nearby villages.
There are taxis available directly from Ioannina, otherwise Ladias Guesthouse in Monodendri operates a taxi service within the region. Transfers can be reasonably pricey though depending on where you’re going.
As for public transport, the bus schedule for Zagori seems to be a closely guarded secret and it’s near impossible to find any reliable, up-to-date information online or at the Ioannina bus station.
In theory, buses should depart for Monodendri and Papingo just once per week, or fortnightly outside of peak season, but you’d still need to rely on taxis to get you to the actual trailhead and back.
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TOP TIP // If you’ll need to arrange transport on the ground, ensure you stay connected with an e-sim. I’ve personally used Airalo on several hiking trips in Europe and would recommend them. Check plans and coverage here.
Zagori is extremely well set up for multi-day walks with a vast network of hiking trails that fan out and connect virtually every village across the region.
Vradeto and the Vradeto Steps are no exception and can be reached on foot from various directions for those embarking on a long distance hike. See more details in this guide to Zagori hiking trails.
Vradeto and Kapesovo are located within a tight cluster of villages, many of which would make a suitable base for exploring the region depending on where else you plan to visit.
Personally, I stayed in peaceful Monodendri which is a located 35 minutes from Kapesovo and is a perfect choice for those also intending to hike Vikos Gorge during their stay, and Kipoi which has a more central location just 15 minutes from Kapesovo and is near many of Zagori’s most enchanting stone bridges. Vitsa and Dilofo are also decent options.
Ladias Guesthouse | This cosy family-run guesthouse is a great affordable option in Monodendri. Operated by two brothers who are a wealth of information on the area, you’ll receive a warm welcome and be offered plenty of advice for your visit. A solid traditional breakfast is also included and taxi transfers are easily arranged. Check rates and availability here.
The Five Keys | One of the newer options in Monodendri, Five Keys offers modern, freshly renovated rooms with guests being particularly fond of the excellent breakfast spread and welcoming host. Check rates and availability here.
Hotel Machalas | I spent my last night in Zagori at this wonderful guesthouse in Kipoi where you’ll find spacious, well-equipped rooms set around a courtyard and a fantastic breakfast – the best I had in the region. Check rates and availability here.
Katikia Zagori | This beautiful stone hotel in Vitsa is one of the best rated in the region and offers newly renovated rooms that combine modern and traditional details throughout, a leafy terrace and a solid breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Dilofo Hotel | Another excellent option, Dilofo Hotel provides bright, spacious suites with an excellent breakfast. Keep in mind that Dilofo’s centre is car free and extremely quiet – it’s really the place to go if you want to escape it all. Check rates and availability here.
To the west of the parking area, a gravel road indicated by a sign for ‘Σκάλα Βραδέτου’, or Skala Vradeto, peels off and sweeps around the corner into the Mezaria Gorge.
The wide gravel path descends slowly into the valley and the storied staircase is immediately discernible across the void, disguised amongst the striated rock face of the opposite wall.
After just 600 metres, the historic cobbled path and its stunted retaining wall begin and will remain as a constant companion until you emerge on the upper escarpment.
During my visit in spring, these landscapes were awash with vivid greenery.
Lush beech forests and yellow wildflowers engulfed the trail lacing the air with the delicate aroma of honey. A cool breeze swirled across the canopy, conjuring the pleasant tinkle of colliding leaves and offering a harsh reminder that the warmth of summer was still a long way from arriving to the mountains.
Reaching the valley floor, the trail continues over a pair of enchanting bridges that cross the dried up tributaries of the Mezaria River which meets the mighty Vikos Gorge further downstream.
Zagori is famed for its expertly built stone-arched bridges which speckle the countryside, standing proudly between the cliffs of a ravine or concealed in a forgotten pocket of forest to allow safe and, more importantly, dry passage over the many waterways that have forged a path across these landscapes.
Named after their respective villages, Kapesovo and Vradeto, these are small perfectly crafted examples of this impressive stonework architecture.
From here, the route begins its gradual climb up the north wall of the gorge towards the escarpment.
Being utterly distracted by the fairytale bridges, I completely missed the caves on my way up, but after just a few minutes on the second hairpin bend, a small teardrop-shaped chamber lies cut into the rock concealed by scraggly bushes.
Onwards, the route pitches up more sharply and the sinuous coil of the Vradeto Steps begin to unfold as you make your way higher.
Ahead, the vertiginous cliffs of the Mezaria Gorge rise above a vast forested belt, tall stone pillars pierce the lush canopy, like towers of slate-grey coins on the verge of teetering over, and the limestone facades of distant Kapesovo huddle beneath a half-dome peak.
In a region defined by vast natural chasms that will humble you into insignificance as you scuttle beneath their cliffs, this pleasant setting is perhaps not quite as impressive as you’ll find elsewhere – it’s awfully hard to compete with the powerful enormity of Vikos Gorge after all – but combined with centuries of history it makes for an enthralling walk.
Ascending the steps, most switchbacks follow a gradual incline, though some are particularly steep and after years of weathering from foot and hoof traffic, the smoothed cobblestones can also be rather slippery.
Emerging at the top of the twisting staircase, be sure to look down to see the route unfurl below like the distended fanfolds of a discordant concertina.
Onwards, the path begins to flatten out and continues up another stretch of switchbacks to bring you onto the plateau.
In 700 m you’ll pass the small Church of Saint Athanasios and a few minutes further along you’ll reach the gravel road that guides the way into the outskirts of Vradeto.
Constructed in Zagori’s signature limestone masonry, Vradeto gleams in the sunshine and is wonderfully peaceful to explore, with tangled grape vines and sienna stained window frames embellishing the wide cobbled streets.
Navigate the up the hill past the church to the main road and onto the Vradeto balcony which overlooks the lush mountains that ripple across the surrounding countryside.
Amongst the labyrinthine streets, you’ll pass a quaint flower-lined local cafe, Konstantina’s, which I regrettably didn’t stop at but looks absolutely charming and full of authentic character.
The popular Balkoni Zagoriou Guesthouse also has a cafe with a large outdoor patio to enjoy the views.
If you’re pushing on to Beloi Viewpoint, I’d suggest waiting for your return trip before stopping for lunch or a sweet treat at one of the village cafes. Alternatively, if you’re self catering, definitely hold off until you reach the lookout to enjoy a picnic in the shade overlooking the sweeping canyon.
The Vradeto Steps alone make this a worthwhile walk, but if you’ve made it this far, don’t even think about skipping the Beloi Viewpoint which lies just 2 km further along perched on the cliffs that frame the magnificent Vikos Gorge.
This spot is an absolute highlight and should be on every Zagori itinerary.
Pushing on past Vradeto, there’s a large parking area for those arriving by car and a dirt road continues behind the village climbing gently for around 900 m where a walking path veers off to left.
While some cars do continue directly here to the start of the trail, the road is pretty rough and not really suited to most small 2WD rental cars so if you are driving, I’d suggest leaving your vehicle at the main parking areas located here or here.
Hitting the trail, the route crosses the plateau tracing around undulating hills strewn with wildflowers, before flattening out on the approach to the escarpment.
Along the final stretch, a clear mosaic of paving stones indicate the way and guide you through a narrow rocky channel onto the spectacular viewing platform anchored on the precipice of Vikos Gorge.
It’s a captivating sight with the vast forested chasm unfolding below and the gleaming white riverbed carving a clear path amongst the trees.
Though Oxya Viewpoint located on the cliffs directly opposite gives some stiff competition, Beloi is the Vikos Gorge viewpoint and should not be missed.
Aside from the established lookout, there are also a couple of rambling side trails which lead to other unique vantage points along the clifftop and are worth a visit.
If you’ve brought supplies for lunch, this is an excellent place to enjoy a well-deserve picnic in the shade before venturing back through Vradeto to Kapesovo. Alternatively, head back to enjoy lunch or an afternoon pick-me-up at one of Vradeto’s charming cafes.
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